Over the past couple years, we’ve worked on tourism projects with cities large and small across Tennessee, unearthing just how pivotal a role places like Franklin played in the Civil War. We’ve already covered a bit of Civil War history in Franklin but thought the Battle of Stones River and some of the lesser-known Civil War sites in Middle Tennessee also deserved a deep dive.
This post was last updated in August 2025.
The Civil War in Murfreesboro and beyond
It’s impossible to understand the geography and psychology of the American Civil War without including Tennessee—Rutherford County, in particular, had a front-row seat to the most devastating war in the history of our country. Armies on both sides, hundreds of thousands of men, marched across the centerline of the Volunteer State in the early 1860s, setting up bulwarks and camps, conquering strategic locations and suffering crippling losses—until almost the bitter end.
Situated in the heartland of the United States and at the crossroads of civilization in North America, Tennessee was an epicenter and busy intersection of opposing forces during the conflict, with only the great state of Virginia taking the questionable lead in the number of individual battles fought throughout. A strategic prize that both sides valued because of its major rivers, abundant resources and crisscrossing rail lines and turnpikes, Middle Tennessee became a superhighway of marching troops and supplies for the entire four years of the war.
Artifacts of warfare are still buried across the region among the soybean, wheat and cornfield landscapes, which were transformed into an angry battle of ideals and property rights. The countryside is infused with the legacy of the War Between the States, and while it’s easy to breeze through the area on Interstate 24 in search of country music or a scenic waterfall, these monuments to the struggles of our ancestors are beautifully appropriate places to pay some respect.
The battles that raged across the flatlands of this area range from skirmishes to all-out war, and Rutherford County was no stranger to bloodshed and spent ammunition; the Battle of Stones River alone resulted in 24,000 casualties, one of the worst of the entire conflict.
Key Civil War sites in Middle Tennessee
If you’re wanting to understand more of Murfreesboro’s Civil War history, here are some of the sites of fights that happened more than 2,900 times on the soil of Tennessee throughout the span of a few years.
Battle of Milton / Vaught’s Hill
A small skirmish that, nevertheless, resulted in the deaths of hundreds, this battle was waged just north of Readyville and east of Murfreesboro. Besides being an attack by the Confederate army that failed to overrun the Union soldiers on Vaught’s Hill, it also solidified the strength of an organized cavalry, with Colonel John T. Wilder’s “Lightning Brigade” being among the defenders that repelled a larger force.
Battle of Hoover’s Gap
Once again employing Colonel Wilder’s fast-moving brigade with a high degree of effectiveness, General William Rosecrans sent these mounted troops, followed by the regular army, in a big push to control this critical section of the war zone in 1863. Soldiers from both sides of the conflict were spread out from Wartrace to McMinnville and across Rutherford County before converging on areas near Beechgrove, right on Interstate 24 where the road narrows. Spencer Repeating Rifles, a favored firearm for Wilder’s troops, were a fairly new introduction to the Union Army, and had devastating effect.
map by Hal Jespersen, www.cwmaps.com
This battle, and subsequent engagement in Tullahoma, forced the entire Confederate army to retreat to Chattanooga, setting the stage for the Battle of Chickamauga, Battles for Chattanooga, and eventually a clear path for General Sherman’s army to conquer Atlanta and the remainder of the deep South.
Battle of the Cedars / Third Battle of Murfreesboro
General John Bell Hood, in a desperate attempt to force the Union’s hand in the Southern Theater and halt Sherman’s march from Atlanta to Savannah, led a series of assaults up and down the Middle Tennessee corridor in late-1864. The Battle of Franklin was the most notorious of these engagements due to massive casualties, but the Third Battle of Murfreesboro, led by General Nathan Bedford Forrest, was a raid intended to reinforce the Franklin-Nashville campaign by cutting off rail service between Nashville and Murfreesboro.
map by Hal Jespersen, www.cwmaps.com
While Forrest had some success in destroying tracks and depots, the stage had inevitably been set for the end of the war, and his efforts were some of the last battles of the Confederates in Tennessee before the war concluded the following year.
Battle of Stones River
Mustering more than 76,000 troops on both sides, Union and Confederate armies closed ranks in late-1862 for this battle, viciously fighting for control of Middle Tennessee. The federal army, commanded by General William Rosecrans, was positioned along the banks of the Stones River near Murfreesboro on the eve of the year, awaiting an attack from the Army of Tennessee, commanded by the erratic general, Braxton Bragg.
What followed was wholesale slaughter—on both sides—that ended in a draw. Bragg later retreated and regrouped in Tullahoma while federal forces claimed victory, despite the staggering number of dead and injured, estimated to be more than 25,000 over the course of three days.
Tullahoma Campaign
When General Braxton Bragg made his headquarters in Tullahoma following a retreat from Rutherford County, he was actively fighting with his subordinate commanders; Nathan Bedford Forrest, a brigadier general under his command, in particular, had threatened to kill him. While the rain poured down, turning the area into a sludge pool, Rosencrans gathered his forces in Murfreesboro in preparation for an assault down the sharply-terraced and well-defended spline of Middle Tennessee.
In late June 1863 when the machinery of war started rumbling up again, nearly 100,000 men on both sides were stationed at various points across Columbia, Shelbyville, Tullahoma, Manchester and McMinnville. The Duck River Line, formed by the Confederates, couldn’t hold as the Union side made a series of feints and smashed through critical choke points, such as Hoover’s Gap and Liberty Gap, both times heavily armed with the Spencer rifle, which proved absolutely deadly against regimental charges. The Confederate Army of Tennessee—at that point diminished by infighting and miscommunications between commanders yet still lethal—attempted to set up a command in Decherd before retiring across the Tennessee River to the Chattanooga area, setting the stage for the next phase of the conflict.
This is just a sampler of the numerous battles that took place on Tennessee soil, and if you’re interested in reading further, I recommend starting your education with this three-volume set by late historian Shelby Foote.
If you’re planning to visit Middle Tennessee soon, here are a few sites that will start your deep-dive into the Civil War history of the region:
One of my favorite weekends getaways is Franklin, Tennessee. It’s just an hour from where we live, but sometimes it feels necessary to break up your routine and reset your mental battery for a weekend—the closer, the better. And with the opening of the Harpeth Hotel a few years back, we love to stay in Franklin and ditch our cars for a weekend getaway that is walkable and brimming with good food and even better cocktails.
This post was last updated in August 2025.
So if you’re coming to Williamson County for a week, a weekend or just a night, here’s what to expect with a stay at the Harpeth Hotel.
Staying in Downtown Franklin
The Harpeth Hotel is the place to stay in downtown Franklin, and it’s also the city’s premier boutique hotel option. With 119 guest rooms spread throughout the four-story hotel, it embodies the look and feel of Williamson County, which is to say: upscale, yet approachable; historic in honoring Franklin’s roots while simultaneously contemporary in design and offerings.
What I love the most about the location is how walkable it is. You can check your car into the valet and explore Franklin on foot for the majority of the weekend, no car needed. Everywhere on Main Street is walkable from the Harpeth, as is the Factory at Franklin, the Franklin Farmers Market, the Park at Harlinsdale Farm and so much more.
What to know about Franklin
But first, if you’re new to this area of the South, you need to know a bit about Franklin’s backstory. Fiercely fought over throughout its history as a Western settlement, Franklin and the surrounding counties suffered losses of American life that are gut-wrenching to contemplate. The steamrollers of war spared quite a few architectural treasures in this part of the world that you can tour and a network of interlinked cultural sites illustrate with excruciating detail how the thousands of acres of graveyards scattered on the countryside were populated with the bodies of men. Some of the most pivotal battles of the Civil War happened in this well-preserved Tennessee town, a fact that’s easy to forget unless you visit the battlefields and museums, which we must insist you do.
The hotel is part of a greater development project that fuses 150 residential spaces with commercial concepts; you’ll find everything from the Bakehouse to the NOW Massage day spa in Harpeth Square, just minutes outside of your door. The square also has its own restaurants like Culaccino and Culamar, plus an olive oil shop to boot.
Named after the river that snakes its way through town, the Harpeth Hotel is part of the Curio Collection by Hilton, so it meets the brand’s standards while still being completely unique. This means that you can accrue Hilton Honors points if you’re a member and also use the Hilton Keyless App if you prefer.
The Harpeth has a couple of different lodging options, including standard and accessible rooms, as well as various suites: junior, king and presidential. Many rooms have balconies with seating areas, a definite plus in warmer months.
Oh, and did I mention that the Harpeth Hotel is pet-friendly, too? This seamlessly ties into Franklin’s pet-friendly approach to welcome dogs into the town’s various spaces: the shops, the cafes, the restaurant patios, the galleries.
The hotel also boasts some really gorgeous event spaces; if you have a group of 250 or less, the Harpeth is the perfect place in Franklin in which to host your meeting, conference or other event.
What I love the most about the Harpeth Hotel is that it truly lives up to its motto of being “Franklin’s living room.” When I’m staying in a plush boutique like this one, I prefer to spend time physically in the hotel, but not necessarily inside the confines of my room, which is why the Harpeth is the perfect place to stay in Franklin for me.
There are nooks and vignettes all over the hotel that lend themselves well to grabbing a cup of coffee (or if you’re us, a cocktail) and settling in for a long chat with a friend or an afternoon with your laptop if you’re always working on the road.
The Library also hosts a daily whiskey tasting for guests at 4:45pm, in which a skilled connoisseur will guide you through a sampling of a special whiskey, some from the area and others hand-picked from destinations across the world.
There’s a courtyard right smack in the middle of the hotel that connects to the lobby bar and the Riverside Ballroom with staircases leading up to the second level of the hotel, in addition to ample seating for those who prefer to lounge in the open air. In the summer, there’s live music in the courtyard several nights a week, but no matter the season, you’ll find someone taking the mic in the Harpeth’s 1799 bar on every weekend as the singer-songwriter industry is at the core of Franklin’s culture.
In fact, there are even Gibson guitars hanging in the lobby that guests can check out for free to play!
Eating and drinking at the Harpeth Hotel in Franklin
The centerpiece of the hotel’s lobby is the chef-driven 1799 Kitchen & Bar Room, which is as visually striking as it is delicious. Built around the abstract deconstruction of the inside of a whiskey barrel, with large, circular nook booths encased in the restaurant’s staves, this corner of the hotel is incredibly pleasing to the eye with all of its lines and symmetry.
The homage to the colors and texture of whiskey beer mash inside of the oak is stunning, and surprisingly the design limitations of working in the round appear to have only enhanced the experience of dining with companions because we could actually hear each other speak, an essential quality that unfortunately has been forgotten all too often if you’re breaking bread with others.
The menu trends to high-end French and Italian, with locally sourced ingredients for menu items like the trout, pork roast, leg of lamb and steak. Brunch is also spun up as an option and includes all the usual suspects like crab Benedict, chicken and waffles, and flank steak, among other choices for a lazy weekend meal.
There’s also a bar in the central lobby area that carries local spirits like Leiper’s Fork Distillery, as well as craft beer from Jackalope, Wiseacre and other Tennessee breweries. No big surprise that this is where we made our base during the length of our stay!
And if you’re looking for a more casual grab-and-go option, McGavock’s Coffee Bar & Provisions is the place for you. Tucked in the corner of the building right along Main Street, this bistro has specialty coffee drinks, beer, cocktails, fresh pastries, handmade ice cream and a selection of lunch items. We loved it so much, we’ve now been for lunch at McGavock’s three times in less than two weeks; SVV always gets the bahn mi, while the roast beef sandwich is my go-to.
Whether you are staying in downtown Franklin or are just passing through, lunch at McGavock’s and/or a meal at 1799 should definitely be on your to-eat list in a city crowded with culinary delights.
Around the Harpeth Hotel
Of course, the hotel is right on Main Street, meaning there’s plenty to do, see and eat beyond its walls. So many of my favorite shops in Franklin are located within blocks’ of the Harpeth, including Emmaline, Tin Cottage, Hester & Cook, White’s Mercantile and Rooted by Yarrow Acres, a plant store with the most gorgeous greenery.
If you’ve already eaten at 1799, there are plenty of whiskey stops—like Stable Reserve, OBJ and Leiper’s Fork Distillery’s House of Spirits—along Main Street, as well as plenty of places to eat within walking distance from the Harpeth Hotel. A few of my favorite downtown Franklin restaurants include: Gray’s on Main, Red Pony, Cork & Cow, 55 South and Biscuit Love.
And while McGavock’s is divine for a cup of joe, downtown Franklin also houses an outpost of one of my favorite regional coffee brands: Frothy Monkey. You can also walk to the Factory at Franklin, a beloved spot of both SVV’s and mine thanks to the artisan-backed shops and eateries that populate this old textile mill just outside of downtown.
I suggest staying in downtown Franklin a three-day weekend so you can make the most of the area’s Civil War history, as well as hitting up the Masters & Makers trail, Leiper’s Fork and the Tennessee Whiskey Trail. Franklin is also a great base for exploring the Natchez Trace Parkway, which travels right through the heart of the county.
When to visit Franklin
Like most of Tennessee, Franklin’s most popular months are often April and May and September and October, though the height of summer promises greenery in spade. That said, it depends on the year, as our winters are getting shorter, meaning it’s warmer through late November and starts to thaw by March. That also means you shouldn’t discount the holiday season, though. In fact, at the moment, it’s mid-60s and prices are lower, but yuletide spirit is high!
Franklin has a few banner events, my go-tos being Pilgrimage Music Festival every September and Dickens of a Christmas in mid-December. Both are located in or adjacent to downtown Franklin and walkable from the hotel.
Looking for more Franklin travel tips? Start here:
Long-time readers know that no one loves a good road trip quite like our pup Ella If she could, she’d go with us everywhere. The problem? Not everywhere is pet-friendly—well, not everywhere ispet-friendly like Franklin, Tennessee, I should add.
This post was last updated in August 2025.
Sure, there are plenty of trips she can go on, but we’ve been down that road before: taken her to a city that on its surface appears to be pet-friendly (Denver, we’re looking at you), but really, truly is not, so we end up compromising our adventures to keep her safe and happy. There’s nothing more stressful for pet owners than to have to leave their pup behind in a hotel room for long days on end or, worse, a locked car with the motor and air-conditioning running. So more often than not, she stays home with my mom and we count down the days until we’re all reunited again.
Taking your dog to Franklin
Lucky for us, many of Tennessee’s cities have jumped on the pet-friendly bandwagon, and Franklin is at the forefront of that movement. Mars Petcare’s corporate campus and global innovation center are both in Williamson County, and in addition to creating a pet-friendly work environment, they’ve committed to teaching businesses like shops and restaurants with patios how to be more accommodating to animals like me, the company also is trying to encourage more offices across the country to implement a pet-friendly workplace policy.
In 2017, Franklin became the pilot city for Mars Petcare’s “Better Cities for Pets” initiative. But what does this mean exactly? While some local businesses like Gallery 202 have always allowed pets, the program has brought in more than 100 Franklin businesses in an effort to make that more ubiquitous by creating urban spaces where pets are welcomed and supported, contributing to the well-being of both pets and their owners.
Part of the program is providing businesses with a toolkit to better serve pets and their people by creating a stress-free environment for all. The result is dozens of dogs strolling Main Street on any given afternoon—and that we can take Ella along with us on a day in Franklin. The initiative also aspires to build true pet-friendly communities by supporting shelters, homes, businesses and parks, touching on four key cornerstones: shelters, parks, homes and businesses.
Pets can’t speak for themselves, so the mentality behind the program is that it’s up to people and communities to advocate for them and the many ways they make our lives better. For us, as Ella’s humans, it’s comforting that we can take her all over Franklin and aren’t going to run into “NO DOGS ALLOWED” signs around every turn.
The expansion of the program has meant signage directing you to businesses that allow your pets inside, water bowls stationed along Main Street, waste bag stations and other amenities.
And for the rare downtown business that doesn’t accept dogs–and for restaurants for whom it’s a health code violation—there’s polite signage alerting you when they are not allowed inside.
Ella gives Williamson County’s efforts two paws up and can’t wait till her next day trip to Franklin!
Where to stay in Franklin with pets
Our favorite place to stay in Franklin is the Harpeth Hotel, and lucky for you and your pup, they allow dogs. But there are dozens of Franklin hotels that accept dogs, many of them along the I-65 corridor. Pet-friendly hotels include:
Other pet-friendly places in Franklin
Franklin is more than just Main Street, so if you’re exploring beyond downtown, you may want to factor these pet-friendly stops—parks, restaurants, bars and shops that accept pets in Franklin—into your plans:
One of the best things about living in Tennessee is the number of day trips available to us on any given week. We live just an hour south of Nashville, which affords us regular outings like a quick trip to the Smokies, an afternoon of waterfall hopping or a day trip to Franklin.
Franklin factored into so many things I did as a kid: It’s where we played the bulk of my major soccer and tennis tournaments. It also boasted what was, at the time, the best mall in Middle Tennessee: Cool Springs Galleria. And many of our class field trips in elementary and middle school were to Franklin’s major Civil War sites like Carnton and Carter House.
As an adult, Williamson County is one of my favorite places to spend an afternoon, as well as take visiting friends. And while it’s a great option for a weekend getaway, it’s also an easy day trip from Nashville if you’re already in the area and want to see a different side of Tennessee. So if you’re considering a drive, here’s how I would spend a day in Franklin.
Take a stroll down Main Street
The best place to start any day trip to Franklin is in its cultural and geographic center: Main Street. The city has two free parking garages on 2nd Avenue South and 4th Avenue, and there’s free street parking on Main Street and all along its arteries.
Once you’re parked for the morning, the Franklin Visitor Center is always a necessary stop to pick up themed guides—Franklin has a trail for everything: sweets, murals, coffee—as well as shop the merch and use the public bathroom.
From there, you can explore downtown Franklin by foot. The city was founded in 1799, but the Downtown Franklin Association didn’t come along until 1984, spearheading the revitalization of the city’s historic downtown core, driving economic development and bringing in businesses by the dozens.
You could easily spend a weekend in Franklin perusing the shops—White’s Mercantile, DeAnn Art Gallery and Rooted are a few of my personal favorites—and dining your way around downtown from Red Pony to Cork & Cow or Grays on Main, which has one of the most photographed signs on Main Street.
On the other side of the street sits one of Franklin’s most iconic landmarks downtown, which has survived the test of time: the Franklin Theatre, Main Street’s beating heart since it was built in 1937. A massive renovation in 2007 shut the facility down for three years, but today, it hosts a variety of movies, live music, comedy, musicals and more.
Before you leave downtown, be sure and pay a visit to the March to Freedom statue. Installed a few years back, the statues and other markers in Public Square comprising the Fuller Story serve to tell a broader narrative about the area’s Civil War history that include the U.S. Colored Troops, nearly 24,000 of whom served in Tennessee and were pivotal to the war efforts.
If you prefer a guided tour to self-learning, Franklin Walking Tours offers a handful of history-focused itineraries like Franklin Charm, Franklin’s Fierce Females, and Grim and Ghostly for those who love a spooky outing.
Detour to the Factory
From downtown, it’s less than five minutes by car—or exactly mile on foot—to the Factory at Franklin, an old 1929 manufacturing warehouse that once was the headquarters for stove and bedding companies. In recent years, it’s morphed into the perfect example of a third place, a mixed-use mashup of dining, retail, office spaces and entertainment.
The brick-and-steel facility, which is ever-evolving, now houses dozens of bars and restaurants, too—including etch, Saffire, Two Hands, Mojo’s Tacos, Honest Coffee Roasters and Otaku Ramen—and is the home of Studio Tenn and special events like the Red Wheel singer-songwriter series.
It also has several kid-friendly activities, like a make-your-own pottery studio and a carousel, as well as a lively Saturday farmers market that’s one of the largest in Tennessee, boasting roughly 100 vendors selling produce, meats, cheese, herbs, flowers and crafts.
Explore the Civil War history in Franklin
No day trip to Franklin is complete without a history lesson: Now that you’ve seen the city’s present-day boom, it’s important to understand its past and how we got here. Franklin is home to one of Tennessee’s most-visited Civil War battlefields, plus personal homes like the Lotz House that played their own role in the wartime efforts. The Battle of Franklin in 1864 was one of the bloodiest of the Civil War, with 30,000 Confederates arriving to the outskirts of Franklin on the morning of Nov. 30.
The Lotz House, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, sits at what’s often called “ground zero” of the Battle of Franklin. Standing inside will give you a front-row feel as to how the family of German immigrants endured being directly in the line of fire—they hid across the street in the Carter House—and how they managed to rebuild their home in the aftermath. Visits are only offered through guided tours or as part of one of the local walking tours, and photography isn’t allowed inside.
Across the street, the Carter House is an eponymous memorial to the family and the many heroes that emerged from the battle. During the war, the brick edifice was used as the federal command post while the Carter family took refuge in the cellar; visible evidence still lingers, including 1,000 bullet holes errantly scattered about, making it the most bullet-riddled building still standing from the Civil War.
The next stop on your Civil War tour of Franklin is Carnton, a former plantation built in 1826 by the McGavock family. By the Civil War, the plantation enslaved 44 people who worked the 700 acres; today, the property spans more than 1,400 acres. The Confederate Army of Tennessee charged the Federal lines at Franklin in what became one of the war’s bloodiest battles, larger even than Pickett’s Charge at Gettysburg. In less than five hours beneath the veil of darkness, 9,500 soldiers were killed, wounded, captured or went missing. Nearly 7,000 of those were Confederate soldiers.
Carnton quickly became the area’s largest field hospital, brimming with wounded and dying soldiers, many buried at what was then the McGavock family cemetery. Every November 30, the Battle of Franklin Trust hosts the Annual Illumination honors the 10,000 killed in the battle with a luminary for each, plus a reading of all the names.
The house remained in the McGavock family’s possession until 1911, when it was sold. In 1977, the house and ten acres were donated to the Carnton Association, and over the years it’s seen plenty of renovation and is now on the National Register of Historic Places.
Also part of Franklin’s Civil War story is Rippa Villa, which was built in 1855 just south in Spring Hill, and once considered one of the most prominent farms in Middle Tennessee. In 1864, the Greek Revival-style home was drawn into the Battle of Spring Hill, which came a day before the Battle of Franklin, as the strategic planning headquarters for Confederate generals. The Tennessee Campaign ticket gets you into the trio of Civil War sites—Carter House, Carnton and Rippa Villa—at a discounted rate.
What to know about visiting Franklin
Trying to decide the best time to visit Franklin is like choosing between bourbon and gin: an impossible task. Any month of the year will give you plenty to do, but I’m partial to the shoulder periods of August and May when crowds are low. If you love autumn, there’s no better place to soak up fall in Tennessee than in Franklin, and October and November, while busy, are undoubtedly lovely times to visit Franklin.
Then again, if you’re a Christmas fan, all of downtown Franklin transforms into a holiday wonderland from late-November through the new year.
Want to visit Franklin during a festival?
Here are a few of the city’s biggest annual events:
If you are culturally curious and love to explore new destinations, then a European River Cruise could be for you. On my cruises on the Rhine, Rhone and Danube I’ve visited vibrant capitals like Vienna and Amsterdam and explored charming riverside towns and villages, each with their stories to tell. For the richness and variety of the destination experience, combined with the convenience of staying on board a small floating hotel, I think a river cruise wins over an ocean cruise.
10 reasons to enjoy a European river cruise
Read on to discover whether you’ll enjoy a European River Cruise, as well as some ‘watch out’ reasons why this type of holiday may not be for everyone.
1. Get to the heart of the destination
River cruises are all about showcasing the destinations you visit. Where an ocean cruise often places more emphasis on the entertainment and activities on board, on a river cruise the destination is the star.
Due to their small size, river cruise ships offer limited facilities, but this is more than made up for by the places you visit each day.
These smaller ships can get you into the heart of some of the most beautiful cities in Europe, such as Budapest, Amsterdam and Vienna – the ones that an ocean cruise would have to bus you to.
Read about all the sights we explored in Amsterdam at the start of our river cruise through the Netherlands and Belgium – by taking a local ferry we found some gems of street art and trendy waterside cafes.
Visiting Amsterdam on a river cruise
You’ll also moor up within a short walk of charming riverside towns that you can easily explore on your own.
On this Rhine river cruise we visited a succession of small towns, such as Speyer, Cochem and Koblenz, each with their unique things to see, such as a medieval Jewish baths, a music museum and a romantic castle on the hill.
Cochem on our Rhine River Cruise
2. The convenience of only unpacking once
On a river cruise in Europe, you’ll enjoy the variety of a touring holiday, but the convenience of unpacking once.
No more stuffing creased clothes back into your case as you get ready to move to the next place. Instead, everything hangs neatly in your wardrobe, ready for you to look your best at the end of a day’s sightseeing.
Personally I prefer to travel light, even on a cruise holiday. But if you are the sort of person that packs an outfit for every eventuality, you won’t have to worry about lifting your luggage until the end of the trip.
Think of your river cruise ship as a floating boutique hotel. There may not be all the facilities of a larger ocean cruise ship, but you’ll have every comfort you need. And I didn’t miss those casinos, mini shopping malls, art galleries and waterslides that some of the larger cruise ships offer!
Restaurant on board a river cruise
Instead, what you’ll typically experience on board is a comfortable and modern en-suite bedroom, with views of the passing scenery. On the river cruises I’ve tried I invariably found a cabin equipped with plenty of plugs, a dressing table/desk space, wardrobe storage and everything else you’d normally find in a hotel room.
Add to this a spacious lounge for relaxing in the daytime and a dining room for lunch and evening meals. The sun deck on the top deck is perfect for relaxing and admiring the scenery, and there’s sometimes a small plunge pool, gym or area for deck games.
Heidelberg on our Rhine River Cruise
River cruise ships normally offer some low key evening entertainment, where local musicians or singers come on board, or there’s an event of cultural interest.
In other words you’ll have everything you need for a comfortable stay, but the experience is similar to staying in a smaller hotel, rather than a large scale resort.
4. Slow down and relax
River cruise ships move at a slower pace, allowing you to unwind as the scenery drifts by. Because most aspects of the holiday are taken care of once you step on board, the stressful elements of travel are removed.
Relax and watch the scenery drift by on a river cruise
You won’t need to worry about which bus to catch, which restaurant to choose or which tour to book, since they are all part of the package. And because you are normally accompanied by a tour guide or cruise representative, there’s always someone on hand to ask for information, so you can make the most of your free time on shore.
For those worried about sea sickness on board ocean cruises, there’s less to be concerned about, since the inland waterways and rivers of Europe are so much calmer than being at sea.
5. It’s on a small and friendly scale
Most river cruise ships have 100-200 guests in 80-100 cabins – that’s similar to a small to medium size hotel. It’s a far cry from the larger ocean cruise ships that sail with thousands of passengers on board, so makes for an intimate and cosy experience.
Staff will get to know you and your preferences, there’s always a friendly and familiar face around, and you’ll get to know your fellow guests more quickly. On one memorable occasion, we even got to meet the captain and go onto the bridge to chat about how he navigated the ship.
Since you will likely see the same guests on daily excursions, in the lounge or at dinner, it’s easy to make friends or find people to chat to. For this reason, I think river cruises are ideal for solo travellers, as well as couples and groups of friends.
The smaller size of ship also has it’s advantages when you check in and disembark, since there won’t be the long queues that you can find on larger ocean cruise ships.
5. River cruises to suit all budgets
While a river cruise is not the cheapest holiday option, there are a range of different providers, so that you can scale up or down according to your budget. Since the size of river cruise ship is limited by the river it travels on, the overall cost of your river cruise is determined mainly by the level of luxury on board and by the cost of the excursions.
Luxurious accommodation on a European river cruise
I’ve sailed on river cruise ships that had the luxurious decor of a 5 star hotel, with gorgeous artworks and excellent wines included at dinner. There were others that put a big emphasis on the type of excursion, offering culinary experiences such as cookery classes, wine tasting or adventure activities such as river kayaking.
Different styles of cabin on a European river cruise
On other cruise lines, the emphasis is on value for money, with a quality experience but at an all inclusive price. When deciding between different cruise lines, you can check all these things to decide which approach suits your budget and book accordingly.
6. A lot is included in your cruise
While river cruises are not the cheapest form of travel, you generally get excellent value for money. The package may vary depending which river cruise line you choose, but accommodation, meals, certain beverages, transport and some excursions are normally included.
That means you have peace of mind knowing that once you’ve paid for the holiday there shouldn’t be too many extras. There are a few things that vary by cruise line, so it’s worth making a comparison in these before you book.
Gratuities for the hard working staff are often an extra to budget for, although some cruise lines will include these. Optional tips for local tour guides are rarely included.
Drinks such as table wine, beer, coffees and soft drinks are normally included at meal times but may be an extra if you order from the bar in between meals. Premium brands or fine wines normally come at an extra charge.
Costs for excursions vary by cruise line. Often a walking tour or other excursion is included in the cost, but other premium excursions may be extra.
Flights to get you to the departure destination are not always included, since the cost of these will vary for different guests.
7. Immerse yourself in the local culture
On a river cruise, you can immerse yourself in the local culture much more fully than you do on most ocean cruises. The towns and cities of Europe are rich in beautiful and historic buildings as well as breathtaking scenery.
Most cruise lines arrange excursions with local tour guides, who are the experts in their location’s culture. They are the ones who will explain in depth the history and context of the places you’ll visit, as well as bringing them to life with entertaining stories and nuggets of local insights.
As a lover of art, I remember visiting the Van Gough Museum in Arles on a Rhone river cruise, then seeing the exact streets and buildings that featured in the pictures. Or exploring the wonderful riverside town of Heidelberg on a Rhine cruise, with its imposing castle and historic bridge.
Heidelberg on our Rhine River Cruise
Each river cruise may take you through multiple countries or regions of a country, each with their different landscapes, cultures and stories to tell. Sometimes the cultural flavour also comes on board, with talks, wine tastings or musical performances.
8. Enjoy the culinary highlights
While you don’t get the multiple themed restaurants of an ocean cruise ship or resort, we found the standard of food on board our river cruises was very high. Breakfast and lunch are often served buffet style, with a selection of hot and cold dishes, while dinner offers a menu with choice of a la carte dishes.
Daily menus manage to pack in a lot of variety, with themed menus on some evening. Most cruise lines also make an effort to reflect local flavours in their menus. So you may find the seasonal vegetable you saw in the market or local pastry you spotted in a shop window, on your menu at dinner that evening.
Another highlight of river cruises are the excursions with a culinary theme, such as wine tasting in the local vineyards, or cookery classes that highlight local dishes.
Alsace Wine Route on our Rhine River Cruise
If you take a river cruise on the Rhine, you will probably spot the vineyards on the river banks and have the opportunity to taste some of the delicious Riesling wines, as we did on an Alsace Wine Route excursion.
I also have fond memories of our bakery class in Vienna, as we plaited the dough and scattered poppy seeds over our rolls, before taking them back to the ship, where they were served for lunch.
9. Get active on a river cruise
While European river cruises are heaven for those who enjoy culture and history, there’s plenty of opportunity to stay active if you like. The riverside towns and cities you’ll visit lend themselves to walking tours, so you’ll find that your step count rises effortlessly as you explore each new destination.
Cochem on our Rhine River Cruise
More and more river cruise lines have bikes on board that they lend to their guests, so that you can explore the riverside paths as an alternative to a walking excursion. Others go further and offer activities such as kayaking or cycle tours as an alternative to the more cultural excursions.
On a river cruise in Austria, we took an excursion to paddle Canadian canoes down a section of the Danube. It gave me a different perspective as we drifted past the banks clothed in neat rows of vines, overlooked by romantic castles perched on rocky outcrops overlooking the river.
Canoing on the Danube in Austria
10. A relaxed dress code
Some ocean cruise lines have a more formal dress code, with the opportunity to dress up at black tie events, with tuxedos, glamorous gowns and sparkly cocktail dresses. But if the idea of having to pack lots of extra evening outfits fills you with dread, you can rest assured that the dress code on a river cruise is generally a lot more relaxed.
This style of cruising suits those who like to keep things casual, and understand that cobbled streets and walking tours call for comfortable footwear. On board you can keep things informal too, and while most guests do dress up a bit for dinner, a smart shirt or pretty top is all that’s really required.
Personally as I like to pack light, I welcome this kind of relaxed dressing where my clothes multi-task, being dressed up with a pretty scarf or some interesting jewellery. Read all my tips on what to pack on a river cruise.
If a river cruise sounds like your kind of holiday, check out some of the best river cruises in Europe on rivers such as the Rhine, Rhone or Danube.
Who may not love a European River Cruise
While we think that river cruising is a great way to experience Europe, there are some travellers who may not enjoy it.
Family Travellers
If you are travelling with a young family, this is probably not the holiday for you. River cruises traditionally attract an older and culturally curious traveller and many ships will not accept children under a certain age.
It’s true that there are river cruises aimed specifically at families. But personally I think families would be better to choose a larger ocean cruise or resort style holiday, where the wide range of facilities and space to run around is more suited to entertaining young children.
Adventure Travellers
River cruises in Europe offer a relaxed style of travel combined with some gentle outdoor activities. I’ve certainly enjoyed activities such as cycling and kayaking on river cruises, and have notched up some miles on the walking tours and sightseeing activities.
But if you’re into extreme sports or adventure activities, then you’d be better choosing a different kind of land based holiday, to suit your interests.
You want to explore a destination in depth
By its nature, river cruising means that you’re moving on to a different location each day. This kind of holiday is great to give you a taste of many different places, rather than a detailed exploration of each one. That’s not to say that the expert tour guides don’t give you a great deal of insight into the places you visit.
However, those who want to stay longer in a particular place can easily tack on some extra days at the beginning or end of the cruise. This is a great idea if you want to explore some of the great cities of Europe, that you may have passed through on your river cruise.
Are you looking to book a breakaway but are not sure where to go? We’ve got just the place, and that’s Madeira. Madeira is a stunning Portuguese island located in the Atlantic Ocean, known for its year-round mild climate, dramatic landscapes, and vibrant culture. It’s a destination where you can enjoy great food, stay in a luxurious hotel and not have to break the bank at the same time.
There is also a lot to do in Madeira, so depending on the type of holiday you would like, that will decide how you experience the island. If you’re after an adventure, you could book a walking holiday. If you would like to relax by the beach, there are plenty of hotels which offer sea views, or you could go inland and explore the unique landscape. There is something for everyone.
To give you some insight, we’ve put together a brief guide outlining three reasons why Madeira should be at the top of your list of must-visit destinations.
The food
A good place to start is the food. Madeira is known for its rich culinary scene, blending traditional Portuguese flavours with local island ingredients. From fresh seafood and grilled meats to tropical fruits and locally produced wines, the island offers something to satisfy every palate. If you’re a foodie, this is the place for you – you must try the espada com banana (scabbard fish with banana), bolo do caco (a traditional garlic flatbread), and a glass of sweet Madeira wine.
The many walking routes
We mentioned above that people visit Madeira and book a walking holiday. There is no surprise why, as when you visit, you’ll come across a plethora of hiking routes which you can enjoy. Each route has incredible views and will challenge you in various ways. If you are interested in hiking, a popular route is the one in the southwest of Madeira. Here you will discover Funchal, the capital of Madeira, and Ponta do Pargo, the westernmost point on the island. The best thing about going on a hike is that when you are finished, you’ve burnt plenty of calories, meaning you can eat guilt-free.
It’s a very safe destination
Feeling safe when going away on holiday is very important. The last thing you want is to be walking around your hotel, feeling uneasy or to explore the town and have to avoid unwanted attention. Madeira is known to be a very safe destination for tourists. The island has a low crime rate, and locals are welcoming and respectful toward visitors. The locals can really make a difference when going away, and that’s something Madeira excels at.
Madeira may not always be the first destination that comes to mind when planning a European getaway, but once you’ve been, you’ll be recommending it to everyone. Will you be booking a trip to Madeira, and if so, when are you planning on visiting? What are your reasons for booking a holiday in Madeira, and what type of holiday will you be booking? Let us know in the comment box below. We look forward to hearing from you.
The Greek island of Andros in the Cyclades, offers a network of well marked hiking trails, often with a beach to swim at the end. Now that’s my idea of a perfect activity holiday! I spent a week hiking in Andros on the Andros Routes, that offer scenic day hikes, easy circular routes and a 100km long distance trail.
Follow our 7 day itinerary for a hiking holiday in Andros with the best coastal views, charming mountain villages and swimming in river pools.
Hiking in Andros Greece
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Why go hiking in Andros?
Andros is unusual in the Greek islands for offering a well developed network of hiking trails, with something for every ability. Here’s why you should consider Andros for a hiking holiday:
Andros offers 240km of marked hiking trails that are easy to follow, with maps available to plan your hiking routes. The traditional kalderimia or mule paths between villages, have been restored and signposted by a group of volunteers through the Andros Routes organisation.
Hiking in Andros Greece
Unlike the other islands in the Cyclades group, Andros is relatively mountainous with elevations of up to 1000 metres. There are plenty of springs and rivers, that tumble down the hillside to the sea, creating a landscape with beautiful views, green wooded valleys and sheltered beaches for swimming.
While there is no airport, Andros is quick to access by ferry from Athens, making it an ideal add-on from a sightseeing trip in Greece’s capital. Andros is only 2 hours by ferry from the port of Rafina, which is 30 minutes from Athens airport or an hour from central Athens.
Like most of Greece, Andros enjoys a Mediterranean climate, with warm sunny days from March to November. So Andros is the ideal place for an active holiday in spring or autumn, to escape the cold of northern Europe.
Andros Chora Greece
About Andros Routes
Andros has established itself as a top Greek hiking destination, largely due to Andros Routes. The project was formed as a means of promoting sustainable tourism on Andros, to highlight the island’s unique landscapes and culture.
Apikia – Hiking in Andros Greece
In 2012 an initiative was started to restore and repair the island’s ancient paths, traditionally used to get from village to village. Now 240km of paths have been restored and signposted by groups of volunteers, with regular meetups during the low season to walk and maintain the paths.
In addition to the day hikes and shorter circular routes, there’s a 100km continuous long distance trail that links the north of the island with the south. In 2015 the Andros Routes paths were certified as one of the Leading Quality Trails by the European Rambler’s Association.
Due to Andros Routes, we found the hiking trails on Andros extremely easy to follow, with plenty of information and maps on their website to help plan our trip.
Pytharas waterfall Andros Greece
Our 5 days of hiking in Andros
We planned for 5 full days of hiking, with a bit of sightseeing and relaxation thrown in. If you allow a day on either side to travel from Athens to Andros by ferry, this makes an ideal 1 week hiking holiday itinerary.
We recommend staying in the island’s capital Chora, and there are some hotel recommendations later in the article.
We started our walk at Apikia, an attractive village in the hills, which is a 15 minute taxi ride from Chora. A few steps from the hiking information board is a marble water fountain for the Sariza Spring, which is known for its pure drinking quality.
Spring at Apikia – Hiking in Andros Greece
From the road at Apikia, we made a 30 minute circular detour to see the Pytharas waterfalls (Route 2a). The path followed a mountain stream up through a series of shallow pools, to a spot with flat rocks and a small waterfall cascading over the lip.
Pytharas waterfall – Hiking in Andros Greece
Returning to Apikia, the path led us downhill through a pretty rural landscape. We enjoyed a stop at the Agadaki Estate Botanical Garden, with a small museum to explain the unique habitats of Andros with terraces of old olives, fruit trees and aromatic plants.
Agadaki Estate Botanical Garden – Hiking in Andros Greece
At the next village of Stenies we climbed up a side path to see the abandoned stone water mill and ‘Fabrica’ meaning factory, which made bread and pasta in the past. We sat on the bridge below the mill for a picnic, and could have made a detour to see more of the village of Stenies set on the hillside.
Fabrica factory Stenies – Hiking in Andros Greece
With the sea in sight, it was an easy walk downhill to arrive at Gialia beach for a cool drink at the beach restaurant and refreshing swim in the quiet cove. Then we followed the road over the hill to Neimporio Beach, the main beach of Chora and back to the town.
Gialia Beach – Hiking in Andros Greece
Distance: 8.2 km Total time including stops: 6.5 hours
This was the longest day we walked, but thanks to the 15 minute taxi ride from Chora up to the monastery, it was mostly downhill. Although we arrived at the Panachrantou monastery around 9.30am, it was a while before we were invited in, since the friendly monk was busy sweeping the courtyard and chasing away the peacocks.
Panachrantou Monastery in Andros Greece
Panachrantou monastery is well worth a visit, with fortress like walls and ramparts from which we had stunning views over the valley. The monastery is said to have been founded in 960 AD when two monks saw a light which led them to a cave, in which they found an icon of the Virgin Mary.
Panachrantou Monastery in Andros Greece
The small church within the walls was unlocked by a monk, to show us the holy treasures of silver and gold, with beautiful icons and frescoes of the saints (unfortunately photos are not allowed). Then, as is traditional in Greek monasteries, we were offered a Loukoumi sweet in the monastery dining room.
Panachrantou Monastery in Andros Greece
From the monastery we followed the well marked Route 1 down the steep hill, passing the stone walls of a ruined hamlet. With beautiful views towards Chora, we traversed the hillside moving downhill until we crossed the stone arched bridge of Stoicheiomeni where the river bed was dry after the summer but would later fill up with winter rains.
Hiking from Panachrantou Monastery in Andros Greece
From the bridge it was a hot uphill walk, crossing the road at the newer part of Menites village, and a short uphill stretch into the old village with its famous spring. The route between houses and stone terraces was pleasantly shady, alongside a water channel that brought water from the spring, and following the path of the mountain stream.
Spring at Menites – Hiking in Andros Greece
We emerged back onto the road in the old village of Menites, to have a refreshing drink in one of the tavernas near the famous lion heads spouting the cold spring water.
Menites – Hiking in Andros Greece
From Menites it was a scenic walk along the valley past the scattered villages of Lamyra and Ypsilou before the path led us down to the beach just below Andros Chora.
Distance: 11.5 km Total time including stops: 8 hrs
Day 3 – River trekking to Gerolimni waterfall on Route 6
We had seen enticing pictures of the Gerolimni waterfall, with its natural swimming pool, fed by icy water from the spring at Vourkoti mountain village. After a bit of research, we realised that it might be difficult to find on our own, so we decided to book the excursion run by Explore Andros, to take us there.
Gerolimni waterfall – Achla river – Hiking in Andros Greece
Our guide from Explore Andros picked us up at the hotel in Chora and drove us on a steep, winding mountain road, past the scattered village of Vourkoti. This area is the highest point on Andros, often shrouded in cloud, although for us the skies were clear and the views amazing.
We arrived at the monastery of Agios Nikolaos, where we parked the car in the parking area above. Since the monastery was open, we took the opportunity to make a visit, and a lady opened the church to show us the beautiful icons with silver lamps hanging from the ceiling.
Agios Nikolaos monastery – Hiking in Andros Greece
By tradition the monastery is thought to have been built in the 8th century and is renowned for a miraculous icon that streams tears of fragrant myrrh. If you’d like to visit more of the mountain monasteries of Andros, Explore Andros offer this Monasteries of Andros half day tour.
From the monastery, we followed the zig zag path down into the valley of the Achla river, which reaches the coast at Achla beach. Soon, we were in shady woodland, crossing an arched stone bridge from the Venetian period and following the river upstream in the direction of Vourkoti.
Agios Nikolaos monastery – Hiking in Andros Greece
At some point the official Route 6 path veered away from the river, but this is where we continued along a faint path. Sometimes we clambered over boulders and fallen trees, changing levels on the old farming terraces, always keeping the river in sight.
Luckily our guide from Explore Andros knew the path well and was able to help us over any obstacles and guide us to the best footholds.
Achla River – Hiking in Andros Greece
After around an hour’s walking from the monastery, we could hear the waterfall gushing down the rockface, into a deep pool below us. Even though the walk had been mostly shaded by the trees, it was a refreshing sight, and we couldn’t wait to jump into the ice cold water.
Gerolimni waterfall – Achla river – Hiking in Andros Greece
While it was possible to jump or even dive in, I preferred to lower myself gingerly, despite the cold taking my breath away. First dip and we could barely breathe from the cold shock, second dip and we swam around briskly, third dip and we felt positively euphoric from the effects of the icy water!
Stone bridge Achla River – Hiking in Andros Greece
After relaxing a while by the pool, we made our way back on the same route. This time we posed for photos under the old stone bridge, which looked even more impressive from the river level.
Back at the monastery, we could see Achla Beach in the distance. It’s reputed to be one of the most beautiful beaches in Andros, but is only accessible on a long dirt track, or by hiking down from the monastery.
It would be wonderful to walk the whole Route 6 hike, which runs from the mountain village of Vourkoti past Agios Nikolaos monastery to Achla Beach.
The problem is that you need transport to reach the start of the walk at Vourkoti village, a 30-45 minute drive on the winding mountain road from either Batsi or Chora.
Near Vourkoti – view to Achla beach – Hiking in Andros Greece
Achla beach where the walk ends is also very remote, with no bus service. If you want to visit the beach without the hike, it’s probably best to take a boat trip, like the one offered by Explore Andros, allowing you to see some of the more remote northern beaches and coastline.
I’d highly recommend taking the River Trekking tour, but if you prefer to hike Route 6 independently using a hire car, I’d suggest parking at the Agios Nikolaos monastery. From the monastery it’s around 1 hour to hike downhill to Achla Beach and 1 hour back. You can also could attempt to hike in the other direction and try to find the Gerolimni waterfall and pool, again 1 hour there and 1 hour back.
Total time: 3hrs round trip hiking from the monastery to the waterfall, including the stop at the pool. Driving time to Agios Nikolaos monastery from Batsi 45 minutes. Driving time from Chora 30 minutes.
Day 4 – Route 3 – Syneti village – Syneti Beach – Chora
We were hoping to hike to Korthi, the smallest of the four towns of Andros. It sits on the coast in a bowl of mountains, to the south of Chora where we were staying. Korthi is so sleepy, it’s where the residents of laid back Chora go to unwind even more!
Ideally we would have taken a taxi part of the way to Syneti, and from there walked over the crest of the mountain downhill into Korthi. The timetable told us there would be an afternoon bus to bring us back to Chora.
Syneti beach – Hiking in Andros Greece
But on checking at the bus station, the afternoon bus did not seem to run after the end of September. We were worried that a taxi might not be available in Korthi, or be too expensive for the 45 minute drive back. So we decided to cut the route in half and just walk back from Syneti, incorporating a swim at Syneti bay.
Syneti village – Hiking in Andros Greece
Our taxi dropped us off by the road at the top of Syneti village, and we walked down through the mainly pedestrianised streets, with cute houses clinging to the hillside.
Folk Museum at Syneti village – Hiking in Andros Greece
There’s a folklore museum in the middle of the village, housed in an attractive building that was once the village’s primary school. It was closed when we visited, so we continued down the narrow road that snaked down the hillside towards the beach.
Syneti beach – Hiking in Andros Greece
The bay at Syneti is backed by a beach of small pebbles, with clear turquoise water and high rocky cliffs on the southern side. We had the beach entirely to ourselves, apart from a lone white goose who seemed to live there. After a refreshing swim, a couple of locals appeared who also enjoyed a solitary swim, one of them calling to the duck as if it was his friend.
Hiking in Andros Greece – Syneti to Chora
We discovered there was a direct path from the beach up the hillside, although a little overgrown, and used this as a short cut to get back to the village and the road. From there we picked up the Route 3 path, which mainly followed the road but short-cutting its curves.
Hiking in Andros Greece – Syneti to Chora
We had some lovely views over Chora and arrived at the broad sweep of Paraporti beach. Here there’s an area of wetlands along the Megalos river, with a larger flock of ducks, so perhaps our solitary feathered swimming companion was part of this group.
Paraporti beach – Hiking in Andros Greece
Later in the holiday I was able to visit Korthi by car, and the drive along the mountain road gave us stunning views, so it would definitely be worth trying to make the full hike down into Korthi if you get a chance.
Korthi Andros Greece
Day 5 – Route 17 – Easy circular walk from Chora around Livadia
For our final day hiking we decided to make an easy walk from Chora around the area of Livadia.
Livadia – Hiking in Andros Greece
This flat valley close to Chora is irrigated by the Megalos Potamos ( literally Great River ), so it’s full of small fields and citrus orchards, dotted with village houses.
Livadia – Hiking in Andros Greece
It was a peaceful, rural setting, punctuated only by the ubiquitous barking dogs that most home owners seemed to keep as an early warning of visitors.
Livadia – Hiking in Andros Greece
The hike meandered through the valley and up the slope on the other side, before circling back to bring us into Chora on a different path. Because we wanted to spend some of our last day on the beach, we retraced the same path back and arrived at Paraporti beach for a swim.
Paraporti beach – Hiking in Andros Greece
Other hikes to try in Andros
There are numerous other Andros Routes hikes to try depending on where you are staying, whether that’s Chora, Gavrio, Batsi or Korthi. Rather than trying to list them all, we recommend that you buy the map showing all the Andros Routes and check the descriptions on the Andros Routes website.
Ask a local or a taxi driver for the best place to be dropped off, and then walk from the high ground in the centre of the island, back down to the coast, to ensure the best views and minimise the uphill slog!
View of Paraporti beach from Chora – Hiking in Andros Greece
Best months to hike in Andros
The main tourist season in Andros is relatively short, stretching from beginning of May to end of September. The high season months of July and August are too hot for hiking (above 30 degrees C), and even second half of June and first half of September may see days of 25-30 degrees Celcius.
We found the optimum time on Andros to enjoy both good weather for hiking ( 20-25 degrees C) and also find most hotels, restaurants and tourism businesses open, is beginning May to mid June or mid September to mid October.
Hiking to Andros Chora Greece
If you are only there for the hiking and not so worried about having a smaller selection of hotels and restaurants to choose from, the shoulder season of March – April and October- November can have some sunny and warm days (18-25 degrees C) for hiking. Be aware that Greek Orthodox Easter usually falls in April and is a busy time for Greek visitors.
We spent a week hiking in the last week of September and found it to be a perfect time of year to visit, with great weather for both hiking and swimming, as well as the chance to enjoy the atmosphere of restaurants where you could sit outside in the evening.
I stayed on a further week at the beginning of October for sightseeing and noticed a big difference in atmosphere, as the temperatures started to drop in the evening and many restaurants and hotels had closed.
Where to stay in Andros
If hiking is your main purpose, I’d strongly recommend basing yourself for all or most of the time in Andros Chora, also known locally as just ‘Chora’ (pronounced Hora). The island’s capital is a charming small town, with a wide range of accommodation, shops and restaurants.
Andros Chora Greece
Many of the island’s hiking trails start or end in this area. It’s also easy to find a taxi at the taxi rank in the square to take you to a start of the trails that lead back into Chora.
Batsi Andros Greece
Many other hiking routes can be accessed from the island’s other three main towns of Korthi, Batsi and Gavrio. If you have more time, you may wish to tack on a couple of days staying at any of these, to make it easier to hike these routes.
Batsi Andros Greece
If you want to do some more remote mountain trails, add on a couple of days in Korthi, while if you prefer some hiking combined with relaxation, choose Batsi for its holiday resort vibe. Gavrio is mainly a ferry port with no beach, but staying here would allow you to access some of the island’s northern trails.
Korthi Andros Greece
If you prefer to base yourself in one place, but are keen to hike some of the more remote routes to the north or south of Andros, I recommend contacting Explore Andros based in Chora. They have knowledgeable guides and can arrange a bespoke itinerary that includes drop off and pick ups in remote locations where there’s no public transport.
Venetian fort Andros Chora Greece
They are also the ideal partner if you are arranging a group hiking trip, as they also own or manage a range of hotels and other accommodation, so can offer a complete package for a group hiking holiday.
Recommended hotels in Chora
Archontiko Eleni (we stayed here) – this small hotel in a neo-classical townhouse, is a good value option with elegant traditional style. It offers breakfast and is well located by the main square, a short walk from all the restaurants and shops.
With only 8 rooms the hotel feels like staying in someone’s rather grand home. This is a good option for hikers since it opens all year round, and there’s public parking nearby if you have a hire car.
Anemomiloi Andros Boutique Hotel (we stayed here) – a stylish boutique hotel with swimming pool on the edge of Chora town. They offer a good breakfast but there’s also a small kitchenette in the rooms.
The hotel is attractively designed with different level rooms overlooking a central courtyard or countryside views. The family who own the hotel also run Explore Andros, making this a popular choice for walkers who use the tour company to arrange their transport.
Castel Abaso Boutique Apartments – a stylish self catering option in the oldest part of Chora, with 3 separate apartments, two of which have private roof terraces. This part of Chora is entirely pedestrianised and quiet at night, so it’s a good option for those who don’t have a hire car.
The apartments are popular with couples, families or small groups who want to have a bit more space, while being a few steps away from the restaurants and amenities of Chora.
In Batsi, we recommend Hotel Chryssi Akti, which is well located in the centre of the town opposite the beach, but there’s a wide range of accommodation in Batsi. In Korthi there are only a few studio or apartment options – check out the accommodation in Korthi here. Gavrio also has a limited range of accommodation, since it is the island’s main ferry port – check out accommodation in Gavrio here.
What to pack for hiking in Andros
Here’s what you need for tackling the Andros Routes hiking trails, assuming you are mainly doing the day hikes like us. The shorter, circular trails that take a couple of hours don’t need any special equipment, other than trainers or hiking shoes.
Hiking in Andros Greece
Andros Routes map and guidebook
Andros Routes produce a map of all the trails, which is recommended for planning and navigation. The map should be sufficient to guide you, as all the trails are well marked.
However, if you want more information Andros Routes also produce a guidebook, with detailed descriptions of the trails. All profits from the map and guidebook go to support the work of Andros Routes in maintaining the trails – more information here.
You can buy this map on arrival in Andros at a number of hotels and locations, or in the UK from Stamfords bookshops – online order here. The Andros Routes hiking guide can also be purchased on Andros, and the e-book is available to download in English and Dutch – more information here.
Use the Andros Routes map and guidebook showing all the Andros Routes trails for planning and navigation
Hiking / trail shoes
I recommend sturdy hiking shoes, but if you only plan to do one or two trails, well supported trainers would also be fine. Hiking boots are too hot for most times of year in Greece, but fine for early (March / April) or late (November) in the season. My current summer hiking shoes are from Keen – I like the NXIS EVO or Terradora styles.
Andros Chora Greece
Hiking shorts
These are ideal for the warmer months May – September. Full or 3/4 length walking trousers would be suitable for early (March / April) or late (November) in the season. Quick dry fabric is ideal for overnight washing.
A day backpack
I find a 15L or 20L backpack is the ideal size for day hiking. In my backpack I carry water, picnic or snacks, map, small medical kit, sunscreen, spare socks, an extra layer for warmth or waterproof jacket for showery weather. I also keep valuables like cash, bank cards and mobile phone in a separate waist pouch.
Hiking to Andros Chora Greece
Hiking poles
This is an optional item as not everyone likes hiking with poles. However, I always hike with them as they give support on steep or slippery paths and reduce the strain on knees and ankles. My favourites are these collapsible Leki poles.
They aren’t the cheapest, but they are well made, sturdy and best of all collapse down for packing in a case or rucksack. I’ve had years of wear out of mine so they were a good investment.
Other items of clothing
Pack sports t-shirts or any t-shirt that’s comfortable for hiking, a light sweatshirt or waterproof, hiking socks, a hat or cap to protect from the sun, sunglasses.
How difficult is the hiking in Andros?
I’d rate most of the trails in Andros as easy to moderate. The longer day hikes are moderate in length and difficulty, with a few steep climbs or descents. However there are plenty of shorter or easier routes where you can park the car and make a circular trail for an hour or two. The trails are well marked and maintained by the Andros Routes volunteers, so it’s difficult to get lost.
Andros Routes signposts Greece
I consider myself moderately fit and was able to do the trails with no special training. Having said that, we did take care to start the trail at the highest points, so that we could walk downhill for most of the way, which was much more enjoyable than a gruelling uphill slog!
Transport for hiking in Andros
The biggest challenge was the logistics in reaching the start of some of the more remote trails, or how to get back at the end of a one way route, where there’s no public transport.
Since public buses in Andros are designed mainly to take people to the ferry ports, you’ll need to overcome this issue, either by budgeting for longer taxi rides (€20-30) or by making transfer arrangements with a tour company like Explore Andros (ideal if there’s a group of you).
A hire car can be used to reach all the trails, however most of the more remote or scenic trails are one way, so a drop off / pickup is preferable.
Andros Chora Greece
How to get to Andros
Ferry to Andros
There’s no airport on Andros, so most visitors will fly into Athens or Mykonos airports, then take the ferry. Ferries run from the Athens port of Rafina to Andros and then on to neighbouring Tinos and Mykonos. They come back from Mykonos by the same route, stopping at Tinos, Andros and then Rafina.
Ferry at Gavrio Port Andros Greece
Ferries run several times a day from Rafina ( Fast Ferries or Golden Star Ferries) and the journey takes 2 hours, or 1 hour 10 mins on the slightly more expensive Seajets ferry. From Mykonos, the ferry time is 2 hours 25 mins. When we travelled the one way ferry ticket from Rafina to Andros was from €25 per person for a foot passenger.
Although you can buy ferry tickets at the port, we found it easier to book online in advance using a service like Ferryscanner. You’ll receive a ticket with bar code by email so that you can go straight on board the ferry. Check the ferry fares, timetables and book your ferry here.
Ferry at Gavrio Port Andros Greece
On arrival in Andros
The ferries arrive at Gavrio Port in Andros, so you will probably need to arrange a taxi transfer from the port to either Batsi (15 mins) or Chora (45-60 mins), depending on where you are staying. Alternatively, the KTEL public buses run from Gavrio port to Batsi and Chora, and are timed to leave soon after the ferry’s arrival.
How to get to Rafina port
To reach Rafina from Athens Airport, you can take a taxi (30 mins) or a regular KTEL Attikis bus (30 mins) – find the timetable here. The bus stop is opposite the Sofitel Hotel, leaving the arrivals hall by Exit 3.
Ferry at Gavrio Port Andros Greece
To reach Rafina from central Athens you have a few options. You could take the KTEL Attikis bus from Nomismatokopio Station in Athens to Rafina (60 mins). Alternatively take Line 3 of the Athens Metro to Athens airport and from there take the bus or a taxi to Rafina. The most expensive option, but economic if there is a group of you, is to arrange a taxi from any point in Central Athens to Rafina (60 mins).
Read our tips for hiking the Thames Path National Trail, a 300km long distance path that runs from the source of the River Thames in Gloucestershire, to the start of the Thames estuary in London. On the way you’ll see the river transition from a muddy puddle, through tranquil water meadows and an ever more urban landscape, until you reach the historic landmarks of London.
Tips for hiking the Thames Trail
How long does it take to walk the Thames Path Trail?
The path is divided into 15 day long stages, which can be walked consecutively or in any order. Some of the days break easily into a couple of shorter half day sections, if you want to add additional rest time or sightseeing stops.
We chose to walk the trail in stages of 1-2 days over the course of a year. If want to walk the whole trail but have limited time, one option is to miss out some of the stages and just walk the parts that interest you most. I think this is better than trying to speed up the walk and then missing the points of interest along the way.
Inglesham – Thames Path National Trail
We found the timings and distances in our guidebook to be pretty accurate, but they didn’t allow for any stops, so we normally added 1-1.5 hours to each day. Our average walking speed including all breaks was around 3.4 miles per hour and we normally walked around 6 hours each day.
I’ve broken the trail into 4 separate articles, each covering 3-4 days that could be walked over a long weekend. You can read all the articles below.
What can I expect to see on the Thames Path National Trail?
From a trickle of water at its source, the Thames meanders through the Cotswolds in verdant fields and water meadows, transitioning from stream to navigable river. For these first four days, the path offers a taste of English rural life, strolling through fields and small villages.
Along this part of the Thames lie charming towns and villages, that prospered from trade flowing down the river, transporting goods from the Cotswolds to London.
You’ll enjoy wild and isolated water meadows, but there’s also the pleasant buzz of canalboats passing through flower filled locks and riverside towns going about their business.
This section offers a blend of rural to urban landscapes, as the river flows steadily towards the outskirts of London. You’ll pass the prosperous riverside towns of Henley and Marlow, known for their rowing traditions and ornate Edwardian boathouses.
As the railways developed westwards from the 1850s, this stretch of the Thames came within the reach of Londoners for day trips, when regattas and rowing boats were all the rage.
The final section of the walk brings you through the centre of London. You’ll pass through the leafy suburbs of Richmond and Kew, past the historic landmarks of central London, ending in the old industrial area of London’s Docklands at Woolwich.
How difficult is the Thames Path National Trail?
I’d rate the Thames Path as an easy route, but one that’s most enjoyable for all ages and abilities. The Thames Path is well marked in all parts of the route, even the most rural.
Mostly the path runs alongside the river, so it’s difficult to get lost. The path is flat and varies between rural grass or stone footpaths and, as you get closer to London, paved paths alongside the river.
Approaching Richmond Bridge – Thames Path National Trail
The exception is the first few stages in the Cotswolds that can be muddy and a bit slippery in autumn and winter. If this is a problem, I’d skip sections 1 and 2 from Kemble to Lechlade and start the walk at Lechlade.
Oxford Towpath – Thames Path National Trail
The only challenge we found was that a couple of the rural sections between Lechlade and Oxford are quite long, without an obvious place to break the day’s walk. In this case you might have to plan for an early start with only short breaks.
There are also a few sections where footbridges or parts of the path may be closed for repairs (often for months or years at a time). This is an annoyance, but there are always detours in place which may add to length of the walk. Where we encountered these, I’ve explained the options in my more detailed articles about each section of the walk.
Where to stay on The Thames Path Trail
In most of the small towns in the Cotswold sections of the walk, you’ll find a choice of pubs, B&Bs and hotels. We normally stayed in a pub, as they offer modest but comfortable accommodation and reasonably priced food in the evening.
Stay in riverside pubs on the Thames Path National Trail
Another great choice for walkers is a B&B, where you’ll normally find a friendly welcome and comfortable, well priced room. However, you’ll need to find a place to eat in the evening and these days breakfast may or may not be included, so check first.
If you prefer something a bit more stylish and luxurious, some of the larger towns and villages have very nice hotels. If you like camping, there are some campsites on the route, but personally I’d rather pay a little more and not have to carry all the kit.
I use Booking.com to book hotels, as it’s easy to see all information about the hotels and keep track of the bookings, as well as obtain their Genius discounts if you’re a regular user. You can also find all the places we stayed on Expedia if that’s your preference.
Henley Thames Path National Trail
We didn’t find any hostels along the trail, although once you reach the London sections of the route, these may be a short bus or train ride away. A couple of the more rural stretches of the trail only have one or two options for accommodation, in which case you’ll need to book up in advance.
List of recommended accommodation for each day
Here’s our list of recommended places to stay at the end of each day’s walk, and you can find more options in the relevant articles.
What to wear on the Thames Path Trail
The trail is mostly easy and flat, so if walking short sections of the trail you don’t need any special clothing. However as we wanted to be comfortable for full day walks in all weathers here’s what we used.
Marlow Bridge Thames Path National Trail
Hiking boots, hiking shoes or supportive trainers – the more rural sections of the walk can get muddy or even waterlogged outside the summer months. My favourite hiking shoes are from Keen as I find their wide toe-bed very comfortable and I’d recommend the Keen Targhee or Nxis Evo hiking shoes for this kind of trail.
Quick drying walking trousers, leggings or shorts. Avoid materials like denim or heavy cotton that won’t easily dry after a rain shower.
T-shirts that are comfortable and breathable – I usually wear a sports t-shirt.
Wearing a sports t-shirt on the Thames Path National Trail
A neckerlike the ones from Buff guards against chills around the neck in Spring and Autumn and can also double up as a beanie style hat. A hat for either cold weather or to shade against the sun like this sports cap is also useful.
Using my hiking pole on the Thames Path National Trail
Packing for the Thames Path Trail
If walking just a day at a time, where you can leave most of your luggage in a car or hotel, you’ll need a day sack. I find 15 – 20 Litres is about the right size for me, like this Osprey Hikelite 18L day sack.
If you are walking for several days at a time from hotel to hotel, you’ll need a slightly larger rucksack to accommodate overnight clothes. In this case I’d recommend a 25 – 30L rucksack like the Osprey Hikelite 26L rucksack.
Fiddler’s Bridge Oxford – Thames Path National Trail
In my day sack I normally pack;
Tissues / wet wipes / a small amount of toilet paper
A small home made first aid kit with plasters and basic medication
A few reuseable ziplock bags for picnics and other small items
Water bottles – I don’t have a special water bottle but instead have several 500ml plastic water bottles which I refill and re-use, then recycle once beyond reuse. For this walk I carried 3 x 500ml water bottles as there were plenty of places to fill up along the route.
Picnic items and snacks – these can easily be purchased in a convenience store at the start of each day.
A spare pair of socks in case your feet get soaked
My lightweight fleece and waterproof jacket are stored in my backpack when not worn.
Best time of year to walk the Thames Path National Trail
The optimum months for walking the Thames Path Trail as a whole are May, June and September. These are the months when you’ll find most sunny days and the river and surrounding meadows are less likely to be waterlogged.
Flooding can be an issue along the Thames, especially in the winter months. Before making firm plans you can check for flood warnings along the Thames Path Trail here and for detours on the path here.
Hiking the Thames Path National Trail in early summer
Spring (March – May) – you may get bright sunny days for day walks. However until May the more rural sections of the path may experience flooding or be waterlogged.
Summer (June – August) – warm sunny days and the riverside meadows and footpaths will be at their driest. These are the months when temperatures can climb so check the weather forecast and avoid really hot days. Accommodation will be most expensive in summer, especially in July and August. On the sections that run through London you may find a lot of tourists.
Hiking the Thames Path National Trail in Autumn
Autumn (September – October) – the weather is normally bright and sunny, but as you move into winter the paths may become more muddy after rain. Check for flood warnings after heavy rain.
Winter (November – February) – avoid walking the more rural sections of the trail during the winter months due to muddy paths and flooded water meadows that lead to endless detours. However, on bright winter days it is possible to walk the paved sections of the path in and around London. Check first for flood warnings, as the river may overflow even paved riverside paths.
Hiking the Thames Path in winter
Best day walks on the Thames Path National Trail
If you only have time to walk a few sections of the whole trail, these were our favourites;
Day 4 – Newbridge to Oxford – an idyllic rural stretch with pretty stone bridges and locks, although it’s difficult to get to Newbridge by public transport – Read more about this stretch.
Northmoor Lock on the Thames path national trail
Day 5 – Oxford to Abingdon – from the ancient university town through leafy water meadows to the attractive town of Abingdon – Read more about this stretch.
Osney Lock Oxford Thames Path National Trail
Day 9 – Henley to Marlow – pretty villages and riverside spots on part of the river famous for its rowing regattas (although you may have to make a detour if Temple Bridge is closed) – Read more about this stretch.
Thames Path at Marlow Bridge
Day 10 – Marlow to Windsor – picturesque riverside towns with views of Edwardian mansions and boathouses – Read more about this stretch.
Cliveden Boathouse – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail
Day 13 – Kingston to Putney – past the prettiest London suburbs of Teddington, Richmond, Kew and Putney – Read more about this stretch.
Richmond on the Thames Path National Trail
Day 14 – Putney to Tower Bridge – covering the South Bank and most of London’s historic landmarks – Read more about this stretch.
South Bank on the Thames Path National Trail
Attractions to visit on the Thames Path National Trail
If you are interested in visiting historic attractions on your journey, these are worth a stop, although you may need to build in extra days to do them justice. Check opening times of individual attractions as some may not be open all year round.
Kelmscott Manor on the Thames path national trail
Stage 3 – Kelmscott Manor – the manor house and gardens were owned by 19th century artist William Morris, whose designs epitomise the ‘Arts and Crafts’ movement.
Day 4 & 5 – Oxford – this ancient university town is worthy of adding an extra day to soak up the beautiful architecture of the colleges. Read more about things to do in Oxford.
Day 10 – Cookham – the pretty village has the Stanley Spencer gallery dedicated to the 20th century artist Stanley Spencer who lived here.
Stanley Spencer Gallery in Cookham – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail
Day 10 & 11 – Windsor – Windsor Castle is one of the main residences of the English Royal Family with a chapel where many of them were married.
Day 11 – Runnymede Meadow – this is the location of an historic meeting in 1215 between King John and his barons, leading to the Magna Carta, which curtailed the powers of the monarchy.
Day 12 – Hampton Court – the royal palace with extensive gardens was the home of King Henry VIII and later monarchs.
Gates of Hampton Court – Thames Path National Trail
Day 13 – Ham House – a 17th century mansion with formal gardens, managed by the National Trust.
Day 13 – Kew Gardens – the Royal botanical gardens with floral displays, exhibitions and Victorian glasshouses.
Day 13 – Barnes Wetland Centre – a nature reserve that was created from the Barn Elms reservoir.
Day 15 – Greenwich – there are several historic attractions here that come under the Royal Museums Greenwich, including the Royal Naval College, Queen’s House, National Maritime Museum and Royal Observatory.
Where to take a rest day on the Thames Path National Trail
The best places to plan a rest day are;
Oxford – Days 4 & 5 – explore the ancient colleges and soak up the history of this university town. Read about all the things to do in Oxford.
Henley on the Thames Path National Trail
Henley – Day 8 & 9 – a pretty riverside town famous for its rowing regatta in July.
Windsor – Day 10 & 11 – a sizeable town with the attractions of Windsor Castle and nearby Cliveden.
Richmond Hill – Thames Path National Trail
Richmond – Day 13 – a pretty riverside suburb of London with a park, green spaces, riverside walks, shops and restaurants. Read about the view from Richmond Hill.
London – Day 14 & 15 – the city has numerous cultural attractions, museums, shops and interesting neighbourhoods to explore.
Tower Bridge on the Thames Path National Trail
Can you camp on the Thames Path National Trail?
Wild camping without permission is not permitted by the Thames Path, which mainly passes across privately owned farmland. The first few stages between the Thames Source and Oxford are quite rural but the landscape is open fields with few secluded spots.
After Oxford the area around the river becomes more heavily populated, so it would be difficult to find a quiet camping spot other than in an official campsite.
Thames Path National Trail Pangbourne to Goring
There are a few campsites that are close to the Thames Path, although some only operate in the summer months.
Day 1 – Source to Cricklade – Elm Lea Camping near Cricklade (Camping and Caravanning Club members only site)
Day 2 – Cricklade to Lechlade – Bridge House Campsite near Lechlade (closed in winter)
We found it easy to find picnic supplies and places to eat along the trail. Most of the start and end points of the day’s stage are in small towns or villages, with a convenience store selling a range of picnic supplies.
The place you stay overnight will have at least one pub and often a range of restaurants for an evening meal.
Paper Boat Cafe Oxford Thames Path National Trail
Every stage also passes at least one pub or cafe on the route, although most pubs don’t open until around 11am in case you are looking for an early coffee. On the more rural section in Gloucestershire and Oxfordshire, you may need to check what’s available at your start and end point, since occasionally it’s just a pub with no convenience store.
In this case you’ll need to carry enough picnic supplies for a two days. We would typically pack a picnic and snacks to eat throughout the walk, but make one or two stops for coffee or a drink at a pub or cafe. Tap water in England is fine to drink and any pub or cafe will fill up your water bottle for you.
Tearoom at Cookham – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail
Transport on The Thames Path Trail
I walked the Thames Path trail with my sister in 2 day stages and we tried to use public transport where possible.
We found the closer you get to London, the more regular and easy the public transport becomes. In the more rural sections of Gloucestershire near the Thames source, there is more limited public transport and even the buses may not take you where you need to go.
On the upper part of the river, from the Thames source to around Reading we found transport needed to be planned carefully.
Cows near Cookham – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail
As we live fairly locally, we were able to get around this by driving to a start or end point and then using the bus or train to return to the car at the end of the day. On some occasions we had to use two cars, positioning one at either end of the day’s walk.
Of course, transport is much less of an issue if you plan to walk all 15 days sequentially. Another good option is to break the walk into sections of 2-4 days, starting and ending at the locations that are most accessible by bus or train (use Trainline to plan your train journeys).
For this reason I have written separate articles, each covering a 3-4 day section of the trail, that starts and ends at a convenient point with good transport links. The articles below have more detailed public transport information for each day’s walk.
Many of the points along the Thames Path are accessible by train, especially the Great Western Railway line that runs from London to Bristol. We recommend using Trainline to check timings and book train tickets online.
There’s also a pretty good network of local buses running between smaller towns and villages, but you need to check timetables carefully as they may run every hour or less.
I used my mapping app to identify which buses serve which routes, then used the bus provider’s website to check exact timings. Once you get close to London, there’s an excellent network of overground trains, underground trains and local buses.
In the rural areas there aren’t lots of taxis, but calling one from a pub (they can often give you the number of a local taxi company) would be an option if you are really stuck.
You can find detailed transport information for each day in my individual articles about the Thames Path National Trail.
We walked the Thames Path from its source in the Cotswolds to its end in London. This seemed to us the most logical route, since we saw the river’s evolution from a muddy ditch to a mighty flow through London’s impressive urban landscape.
Thames Source – Thames Path National Trail
We were also influenced by living in Bristol, so we started at the point closest to us. However, if you live in London it might make sense to start there and follow the river to its source.
You might also be influenced by the season you decide to walk, since the more rural sections closest to the source can be very muddy and waterlogged through autumn and winter. Other than these considerations there is no right or wrong place to start and end the Thames Path.
Lechlade on Thames Trail
Is the Thames Path easy to follow?
We found the Thames Path extremely easy to follow. All the sections are well marked with clear signposts and wherever we met a diversion, due to flooding or building works, this was also well signposted. There are other footpaths that cross the Thames Path, but it was easy to distinguish between the Thames Path and other footpaths.
As it generally follows the river, you can’t go far wrong if you have it in your sight, although it’s worth mentioning that sometimes the path does divert a little way from the Thames river itself. It would certainly be possible to follow the Thames Path Trail by just following the signposts.
Wandsworth – Thames Path National Trail
However, we do recommend taking a guidebook to get more information about the places you’ll pass, distance and timings and some history and context for the walk.
The guidebook we used and recommend is the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide. We liked the easy to follow maps and the fact that it’s just as easy to follow for walking in either direction.
Resources for hiking the Thames Path National Trail
Train bookings – we recommend Trainline for easy online rail bookings. Buses can be paid for by tapping on and off with your debit card.
Book accommodation: to book hotels online and conveniently have all your bookings in once place, we used Booking.com but if you prefer you could also use Expedia.
Guidebook – we used and recommend the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide – this is the one we used and we liked the easy to follow maps and the fact that it’s just as easy to follow for walking in either direction.
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Walking from Oxford to Henley on the Thames Path National Trail, you’ll enjoy wild and isolated water meadows, but there’s also the pleasant buzz of canalboats passing through flower filled locks and riverside towns going about their business. Along this part of the Thames lie charming towns and villages, that prospered from trade flowing down the river, transporting goods from the Cotswolds to London.
Thames Path National Trail Day 5-8 Oxford to Henley
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Days 5-8 – Oxford to Henley
The beauty of the Thames Path National Trail is that the 15 days of walking can easily be split up into sections, if you don’t want to walk it in one go. My sister and I took around a year to complete the whole trail, normally walking for a couple of days at a time.
We chose to start from the Thames Source and walk towards London, but this four day leg from Oxford to Henley or any part of the trail can be walked in either direction.
As the Thames Path is 15 days long, I decided to break my articles into 4 sections, each covering 3-4 days walking on the trail. I hope to provide detailed information for walkers on all the practicalities such transport and accommodation, as well as what to see on the trail.
You’re reading the second of the 4 articles describing Days 5-8 of our walk on the Thames Path National Trail, and if you haven’t already done so, you can also read:
Essential planning for Days 5-8 – Oxford to Henley
If you are walking sections 5-8 of the Thames Trail over a 4 day period, here are the planning essentials. Day 8 is one of the longest sections at 17 miles, so you might want to consider breaking it up at Reading, which would add a fifth day to the walk.
Book the train or coach to Oxford for the start of the walk – There are direct trains from London Paddington or London Marylebone. We recommend Trainline for easy rail and coach bookings. You can also get coaches from London and other cities to Oxford, or from London take the frequent Oxford Tube bus service.
Book accommodation: For the night before starting the walk at Oxford (if required) – there are numerous options, check these Oxford hotels | Day 5 Abingdon – Old Abbey House | Day 6 Wallingford – The Town Arms | Day 7 Pangbourne – Elephant Hotel | Day 8 ends in Henley. This is a long walking day so you may prefer to break it in two at Reading – The Market House or walk the full day to Henley – The Catherine Wheel
Book the train from Henley at the end of this 4 day section – if heading to London you can change at Twyford, for the GWR Bristol to London Paddington line or the Elizabeth Line. We recommend Trainline for easy rail bookings.
Guidebook – buy the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide – this is the one we used and found it excellent for walking in either direction. While a guidebook is not essential, we enjoyed using this one as it added useful information and context to our walk.
I’ll be publishing further articles in this Thames Path series very soon. In the meantime, if you have questions about our walk on the Thames Path National Trail, feel free to email me at heather(at)heatheronhertravels(dot)com
Osney Bridge Oxford Thames Path National Trail
Day 5 – Oxford to Abingdon
The university town of Oxford, with colleges dating back to the 13th century, is well worth lingering a while. So if you enjoy sightseeing, arrive the day before your walk, allowing extra time to soak up all that history and gorgeous architecture. You can get some more inspiration from my article: A weekend in Oxford – our 48 hour itinerary
The day’s walk starts at Osney Bridge which is conveniently close to Oxford’s train station. Through Oxford, the Thames ribbons into a number of canals and waterways. The towpath is shared with a constant flow of cyclists, so you should keep an eye out for them or risk being run down!
Osney Lock Oxford Thames Path National Trail
Finally the Thames path leaves Oxford behind at Folly Bridge, named after a quirky 19th century building and tower, with a wharf opposite the Head of the River pub, where boat trips leave for Abingdon.
Folly Bridge Oxford Thames Path National Trail
The river, which is also known as the Isis at this point, now meanders through meadows until you pass Isis Farmhouse. Operating as a pub open mainly at weekends, this old farmhouse has large gardens to sup a pint overlooking the river.
Isis Farmhouse Oxford Thames Path National Trail
Nearby is Iffley Lock with its arched stone punter’s bridge, which is the starting point for the Oxford University boat races. The next stretch includes Sandford Lock and then a long walk alongside water meadows until you reach Abingdon Lock.
Heather at Iffley Lock Thames Path National Trail
From here it’s just a short stroll to Abingdon Bridge, which you cross to enter the town.
Abingdon Thames Path National Trail
Day 5 – Distance and timings
Oxford to Abingdon is aprox 9.5 miles / 15.2 km. It took us around 5.5 hrs to walk, including a coffee stop at Paper Boat Cafe and a picnic break at one of the locks.
Day 5 – Where to stay
Oxford – there’s a huge choice of pubs, guest houses, hotels and hostels, but book ahead as the city is a popular tourist hotspot – check all Oxford hotels.
The Old Abbey House is located in Abingdon, 10 miles from University of Oxford
Abingdon – the town offers a wide range of pubs, hotels and guest houses for accommodation. For charming and affordable accommodation in Abingdon, we recommend S Howard B & B where we stayed or for a centrally located alternative try Old Abbey House.
Abingdon Thames Path National Trail
Day 5 – Where to eat
Oxford – there are many food shops, cafes and pubs at Oxford. By Folly Bridge, we enjoyed a coffee overlooking the river at the charming Paper Boat Cafe. Opposite the bridge is the Head of the River pub, which would be another dining option.
Paper Boat Cafe Oxford Thames Path National Trail
Pub stops after this are Isis Farmhouse (Friday – Sunday from midday) or the Kings Arms at Sandford Lock.
Abingdon – there are many shops and restaurants in the town, and we enjoyed a drink in the riverside garden of the Nag’s Head.
Nag’s Head Abingdon Thames Path National Trail
Day 5 – Transport for this stage
Oxford – the town has a station and is well connected by rail and coach to London and other towns on the Thames path.
Abingdon – there is no station, the nearest being at Radley, which is 15 mins by No 35 bus or 1 hour walk. From London take the train from Paddington station to Didcot Parkway, then change for the branch line to Radley.
Frequent buses ( X1, X2, X3, X15) run between Oxford and Abingdon and the journey time is 30 minutes.
Meadows near Sandford Thames Path National Trail
Options by car – At both Oxford and Abingdon, there are several public car parks to choose from, where you can leave your car for the day. In Oxford try the Oatlands Road Car Park in Botley, or the Port Meadow South Parking, both of which are close to the Thames Path.
For this leg we left our car in the car park at Abingdon, took the bus to Oxford, then walked the Thames path back to Abingdon, where we stayed the night.
Osney Bridge Oxford Thames Path National Trail
Day 6 – Abingdon – Dorchester – Wallingford
Abingdon is a pretty riverside town, named after the Medieval Abbey that was founded here. Crossing the stone bridge from the town, the path runs alongside water meadows to Dorchester and this section has a rather wild and isolated feel.
Abingdon Thames Path National Trail
In two sections at Culham and Long Wittenham, the path follows a canal making a short cut away from the meandering loops of the river. Clifton Lock was a riot of colour with gardens in full bloom and a friendly lock-keeper who sold us ice creams.
Clifton Hampden Lock Thames Path National Trail
The riverside village of Clifton Hampden makes a good lunch stop since it has this section’s only pub, The Barley Mow. Another big loop through water meadows brings you to Day’s Lock close to Dorchester, although the town is out of sight.
Heather at Clifton Hampden Thames Path National Trail
It’s possible to walk into Dorchester and break your journey here, but we continued on to Shillingford Bridge, where the footpath takes a short diversion away from the river.
Shillingford Bridge Thames Path National Trail
At Benson Lock you need to cross the river, but the footbridge was undergoing repairs and we took the ferry that runs back and forth instead. Check that in advance that the ferry is running, or you may have to take a diversion from the footpath to reach Wallingford. Benson Lock also has a busy Waterside Cafe, that serves the customers of the holiday boat hire business that operates from here.
Heather on the Benson Lock Ferry Thames Path National Trail
Once you’ve crossed by ferry at Benson Lock, it’s a short walk to Wallingford, an attractive market town with shops and cafes around the central square.
Day 6 – Distance and timings
Abingdon to Wallingford is aprox 14 miles / 22.5 km. This was one of our longer days but it could be broken into 2 shorter legs at Dorchester. It took us around 7.5 hrs to walk, including a coffee at Benson Lock, picnic break and drink at Clifton Hampden.
Meadows near Culham Thames Path National Trail
Day 6 – Where to stay
Abingdon – there’s a wide range of pubs, hotels and guest houses. For charming and affordable accommodation, we recommend S Howard B & B where we stayed, or for a centrally located alternative try Old Abbey House.
Wallingford also has a few places to stay, we recommend The Town Arms, which is centrally located.
In Wallingford The Town Arms has a comfortable rooms, a restaurant and pub garden
Wallingford Bridge Thames Path National Trail
Day 6 – Where to eat
Abingdon – there are many shops and supermarkets to buy picnic supplies.
Clifton Hampden – on the stretch between Abbingdon and Dorchester the only pub is The Barley Mow, and the post office here also stocks some basic food supplies.
Dorchester – the town has pubs and restaurants but is a bit of a walk away from the Thames Path.
Wallingford – close to Wallingford, you could stop for coffee or lunch at the Waterfront Cafe at Benson Lock. Wallingford is a charming small town, with many shops and cafes.
Barley Mow at Clifton Hampden Thames Path National Trail
Day 6 – Transport for this stage
Abingdon – there is no station at Abingdon, the nearest being at Radley. From London change at Didcot Parkway, for the branch line to Radley, then take the No 35 bus.
Wallingford – there is no station at Wallingford, the nearest being at Cholsey. From London Paddington take the train to Cholsey, then take the No 136 bus to Wallingford. The No 33 bus runs between Abingdon and Wallingford, with a journey time of 1 hour.
Options by car – At Abingdon, there are several public car parks to choose from, to leave your car for the day. For this leg we left our car in the car park at Abingdon, took the No 33 bus to Wallingford, walking the Thames path back to Abingdon.
Heather at Wallingford – Thames Path National Trail
Day 7 – Wallingford – Goring – Pangbourne
This was one of my less favourite stages of the Thames path, as much of it ran through woodland or was out of sight of the river. However the section around Goring was more attractive with views of pretty Edwardian boathouses on the opposite bank.
Streatley Thames Path National Trail
Leaving Wallingford, the path was at first quite muddy around Watermead Nature Reserve and we passed some impressive boathouses, owned by Oxford Brookes University.
Near Wallingford Thames Path National Trail
We passed under the double arch railway bridge, constructed by celebrated engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel. While undoubtedly a feat of Victorian engineering, it had a rather damp and spooky atmosphere!
Brunel Railway Bridge Moulsford Thames Path National Trail
Around Moulsford the path runs briefly away from the river, before arriving at the Beetle and Wedge, a pleasant riverside inn, where we ordered a drink and sat outside overlooking the river. Soon after, look out for the Egyptian House, a modern mansion with colourful Egyptian motifs which felt quite out of keeping with the rural English setting.
Streatley Thames Path National Trail
Running alongside the river, the path now brings you past the Swan Inn at Streatley (its Coppa Club bar is a good coffee or lunch stop), on the opposite bank from the town of Goring. An alternative on the Goring side of the bridge, is the busy Pierreponts Cafe.
Goring was an ancient crossing place of the Thames and marks a change in landscape from the flatter Oxford plain upstream, to the steeper sided valley downstream.
Goring Lock Thames Path National Trail
Having crossed the river at Goring, the path now continues on the northern bank, past the attractive Goring lock, with its canal boat moorings.
Thames Path National Trail Pangbourne to Goring
After a short flat stretch beside the river, the path climbs and unusually runs on the side of a chalk cliff through Hartslock Wood, with glimpses of the Thames below through the trees.
Pangbourne to Goring – Thames Path National Trail
The final stretch into Pangbourne runs away from the river through Whitchurch, before bringing you back to the Victorian iron Whitchurch toll bridge (a small charge for cars but free for pedestrians).
Day 7 – Distance and timings
Wallingford to Pangbourne is aprox 11 miles / 17.6 km. This was a comfortable day’s walk but could be broken into 2 shorter legs at Goring. It took us around 6 hrs to walk, including a coffee at Goring and a picnic break at the Beetle and Wedge Riverside pub.
Day 7 – Where to stay
If staying in Wallingford, we recommend The Town Arms, which is centrally located.
In Wallingford, The Town Arms has comfortable rooms, a restaurant and pub garden.
In Pangbourne, we recommend the boutique style Elephant Hotel which is in the centre of town.
Day 7 – Where to eat
Both Wallingford and Pangbourne are small towns, with a range of shops and cafes.
On the section between Wallingford and Goring, the Beetle and Wedge is a friendly riverside pub, with outside and inside seating. We didn’t find anywhere to stop between Goring and Pangbourne.
Beetle and Wedge pub Thames Path National Trail
Goring and Streatley – the options closest to the river are the Pierreponts Cafe and the Coppa Club on the other side of the bridge at Streatley. Both of these serve coffees, snacks and lunches, although the Pierreponts Cafe is quite small. So if it seems busy head to the more spacious Coppa Club within The Swan Hotel instead. If you need picnic supplies, there are also shops in Goring.
Swan Hotel at Streatley Thames Path National Trail
Day 7 – Transport for this stage
Wallingford – there is no station, the nearest being at Cholsey. From London Paddington take the train to Cholsey, then the No 136 bus to Wallingford.
Pangbourne – there is a station, which is on the GWR route from Bristol Parkway to London Paddington, with direct connections to Reading and Maidenhead, both on the Thames Path.
Pangbourne Station Thames Path National Trail
Options by car – For this leg we left our car in the Cattlemarket car park at Wallingford, took the No 136 bus from Wallingford to Cholsey (11 mins), then the train from Cholsey to Pangbourne (20 mins). Then we walked on the Thames path from Pangbourne back to Wallingford.
Goring Lock Thames Path National Trail
Day 8 – Pangbourne – Reading – Henley
On leaving the small town of Pangbourne at the striking iron Whitchurch Bridge, the path skirts the river through Pangbourne Meadow, with a glimpse on the opposite bank of Hardwick House. This Tudor House was visited by Elizabeth I and is thought to be the model for ‘Toad Hall’ in Kenneth Grahame’s book The Wind in the Willows.
At Purley, the path leaves the river bank behind a Marina and returns to the river near Tilehurst Station. Now the route skirts the river through open fields and past the Rowing Club towards Caversham Bridge, which marks the entry into Reading.
Caversham Bridge – Thames Path
The stretch through Reading is surprisingly charming for such a busy town, with views of Fry’s island and Caversham Lock in the centre of the river. We enjoyed a coffee in the Thames Lido, a stylish reinvention of the old riverside Lido where you can watch the swimmers doing their lengths.
Thames Lido Reading
It’s worth making a short detour here onto Caversham Lock, to cross the weir for views of the river and the old ladies swimming club, now a community hydro-electric facility.
Caversham Lock Reading – Thames Path
The path follows the river through King’s Meadow, a community leisure space, passing through woodland near a large Tesco supermarket (toilets, cafe and picnic supplies). Beyond this, the area of Caversham Lakes and Marina can be seen beyond the opposite river bank, until you reach Sonning.
The old Saxon village has a bridge across the river, with a 17th century water mill (now a theatre) and a few places to eat. At Sonning the Thames Path crosses the road bridge and a further footbridge, to continue on the north bank of the Thames as far as Henley.
Reading Bridge – Thames Path
The riverside path meanders on towards Shiplake where there is a station and the path then continues along a lane behind the series of grand houses that face the river. One of the grand mansions that has been split into smaller residences has a narrow gauge railway that can be seen from the lane.
Returning to the river you’ll now walk through water meadows, until a long wooden horse bridge runs out into the river to Marsh Lock, before returning you to the bank again. The way is now a broad paved path that takes you past the River and Rowing Museum and into Henley itself.
Henley on Thames is known for its rowing regatta, which takes place in July and is a feature of the English society calendar.
Henley Thames Path National Trail
Day 8 – Distance and timings
Pangbourne to Henley is aprox 17 miles / 27 km, so you need to start early, for a longer day’s walk. It took us around 8.5 hrs to walk. You can also break this stage into two shorter stages: Pangbourne to Reading (7 miles / 11 km) and Reading to Henley (10 miles / 16 km).
Day 8 – Where to stay
Pangbourne: There is less choice of places to stay than Henley or Reading. We recommend The Elephant Hotel (boutique style) which is in the centre of town.
Henley: For budget options try The Catherine Wheel (traditional pub) or RIOSHOUSE (contemporary no-reception rooms). For more luxurious options, look at The Relais ( the former historic Red Lion Inn) or Hotel du Vin. All of these are well located in the centre of Henley, close to the many shops and restaurants.
RIOSHOUSEis a contemporary no-reception style hotel well situated in Henley on Thames
Reading: This busy town is a less charming place to stay than Pangbourne or Henley. If you decide to break the stage here, we recommend The Market House (budget boutique style) or Ibis Reading Centre (contemporary budget hotel), both of which are close to the station and 10 mins walk from the Thames Path.
Tilehurst – Thames Path
Day 8 – Where to eat
Pangbourne – several shops for picnic supplies and a good choice of bars, restaurants and pub options around the town centre.
Purley – Between Pangbourne and Reading, you’ll pass the Mad Duck Cafe at Purley.
Reading – near the bridge is the stylish Thames Lido for coffees and lunch, with picnic benches overlooking the river nearby.
Near Reading – Soon after leaving Reading, the path runs close to a large Tescos where you can buy picnic supplies or eat in their cafe.
Sonning – the next pub on the Reading to Henley stretch is The Bull Inn at Sonning.
Henley – the town has numerous excellent pubs and restaurants, as well as shops to pick up picnic supplies, if you are continuing the walk.
Tilehurst – Thames Path
Day 8 – Transport for this stage
Pangbourne – there is a station which is on the GWR route from Bristol Parkway to London Paddington, with direct connections to Reading and Maidenhead, both on the Thames Path.
Reading – there is a station, which is a busy junction on the main London to Bristol line.
Henley – there is a station, which connects via Twyford, where you can change to the GWR Bristol to London line or the Elizabeth Line.
More articles about the Thames Path National Trail
I’ll be publishing more articles in this Thames Path series very soon. In the meantime, if you have questions about our walk on the Thames Path National Trail, feel free to email me at heather(at)heatheronhertravels(dot)com
Coming Soon – Tips for hiking the Thames Path National Trail
Resources for hiking the Thames Path National Trail
Train bookings – to get you to the start and end of this section of the walk, we recommend Trainline for easy rail bookings.
Book accommodation: to book hotels online and conveniently have all your bookings in once place, we used Booking.com but if you prefer you could also use Expedia.
Guidebook – we used and recommend the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide – this is the one we used and we liked the easy to follow maps and the fact that it’s just as easy to follow for walking in either direction.
