Long-time readers know that no one loves a good road trip quite like our pup Ella If she could, she’d go with us everywhere. The problem? Not everywhere is pet-friendly—well, not everywhere ispet-friendly like Franklin, Tennessee, I should add.
This post was last updated in August 2025.
Sure, there are plenty of trips she can go on, but we’ve been down that road before: taken her to a city that on its surface appears to be pet-friendly (Denver, we’re looking at you), but really, truly is not, so we end up compromising our adventures to keep her safe and happy. There’s nothing more stressful for pet owners than to have to leave their pup behind in a hotel room for long days on end or, worse, a locked car with the motor and air-conditioning running. So more often than not, she stays home with my mom and we count down the days until we’re all reunited again.
Taking your dog to Franklin
Lucky for us, many of Tennessee’s cities have jumped on the pet-friendly bandwagon, and Franklin is at the forefront of that movement. Mars Petcare’s corporate campus and global innovation center are both in Williamson County, and in addition to creating a pet-friendly work environment, they’ve committed to teaching businesses like shops and restaurants with patios how to be more accommodating to animals like me, the company also is trying to encourage more offices across the country to implement a pet-friendly workplace policy.
In 2017, Franklin became the pilot city for Mars Petcare’s “Better Cities for Pets” initiative. But what does this mean exactly? While some local businesses like Gallery 202 have always allowed pets, the program has brought in more than 100 Franklin businesses in an effort to make that more ubiquitous by creating urban spaces where pets are welcomed and supported, contributing to the well-being of both pets and their owners.
Part of the program is providing businesses with a toolkit to better serve pets and their people by creating a stress-free environment for all. The result is dozens of dogs strolling Main Street on any given afternoon—and that we can take Ella along with us on a day in Franklin. The initiative also aspires to build true pet-friendly communities by supporting shelters, homes, businesses and parks, touching on four key cornerstones: shelters, parks, homes and businesses.
Pets can’t speak for themselves, so the mentality behind the program is that it’s up to people and communities to advocate for them and the many ways they make our lives better. For us, as Ella’s humans, it’s comforting that we can take her all over Franklin and aren’t going to run into “NO DOGS ALLOWED” signs around every turn.
The expansion of the program has meant signage directing you to businesses that allow your pets inside, water bowls stationed along Main Street, waste bag stations and other amenities.
And for the rare downtown business that doesn’t accept dogs–and for restaurants for whom it’s a health code violation—there’s polite signage alerting you when they are not allowed inside.
Ella gives Williamson County’s efforts two paws up and can’t wait till her next day trip to Franklin!
Where to stay in Franklin with pets
Our favorite place to stay in Franklin is the Harpeth Hotel, and lucky for you and your pup, they allow dogs. But there are dozens of Franklin hotels that accept dogs, many of them along the I-65 corridor. Pet-friendly hotels include:
Other pet-friendly places in Franklin
Franklin is more than just Main Street, so if you’re exploring beyond downtown, you may want to factor these pet-friendly stops—parks, restaurants, bars and shops that accept pets in Franklin—into your plans:
One of the best things about living in Tennessee is the number of day trips available to us on any given week. We live just an hour south of Nashville, which affords us regular outings like a quick trip to the Smokies, an afternoon of waterfall hopping or a day trip to Franklin.
Franklin factored into so many things I did as a kid: It’s where we played the bulk of my major soccer and tennis tournaments. It also boasted what was, at the time, the best mall in Middle Tennessee: Cool Springs Galleria. And many of our class field trips in elementary and middle school were to Franklin’s major Civil War sites like Carnton and Carter House.
As an adult, Williamson County is one of my favorite places to spend an afternoon, as well as take visiting friends. And while it’s a great option for a weekend getaway, it’s also an easy day trip from Nashville if you’re already in the area and want to see a different side of Tennessee. So if you’re considering a drive, here’s how I would spend a day in Franklin.
Take a stroll down Main Street
The best place to start any day trip to Franklin is in its cultural and geographic center: Main Street. The city has two free parking garages on 2nd Avenue South and 4th Avenue, and there’s free street parking on Main Street and all along its arteries.
Once you’re parked for the morning, the Franklin Visitor Center is always a necessary stop to pick up themed guides—Franklin has a trail for everything: sweets, murals, coffee—as well as shop the merch and use the public bathroom.
From there, you can explore downtown Franklin by foot. The city was founded in 1799, but the Downtown Franklin Association didn’t come along until 1984, spearheading the revitalization of the city’s historic downtown core, driving economic development and bringing in businesses by the dozens.
You could easily spend a weekend in Franklin perusing the shops—White’s Mercantile, DeAnn Art Gallery and Rooted are a few of my personal favorites—and dining your way around downtown from Red Pony to Cork & Cow or Grays on Main, which has one of the most photographed signs on Main Street.
On the other side of the street sits one of Franklin’s most iconic landmarks downtown, which has survived the test of time: the Franklin Theatre, Main Street’s beating heart since it was built in 1937. A massive renovation in 2007 shut the facility down for three years, but today, it hosts a variety of movies, live music, comedy, musicals and more.
Before you leave downtown, be sure and pay a visit to the March to Freedom statue. Installed a few years back, the statues and other markers in Public Square comprising the Fuller Story serve to tell a broader narrative about the area’s Civil War history that include the U.S. Colored Troops, nearly 24,000 of whom served in Tennessee and were pivotal to the war efforts.
If you prefer a guided tour to self-learning, Franklin Walking Tours offers a handful of history-focused itineraries like Franklin Charm, Franklin’s Fierce Females, and Grim and Ghostly for those who love a spooky outing.
Detour to the Factory
From downtown, it’s less than five minutes by car—or exactly mile on foot—to the Factory at Franklin, an old 1929 manufacturing warehouse that once was the headquarters for stove and bedding companies. In recent years, it’s morphed into the perfect example of a third place, a mixed-use mashup of dining, retail, office spaces and entertainment.
The brick-and-steel facility, which is ever-evolving, now houses dozens of bars and restaurants, too—including etch, Saffire, Two Hands, Mojo’s Tacos, Honest Coffee Roasters and Otaku Ramen—and is the home of Studio Tenn and special events like the Red Wheel singer-songwriter series.
It also has several kid-friendly activities, like a make-your-own pottery studio and a carousel, as well as a lively Saturday farmers market that’s one of the largest in Tennessee, boasting roughly 100 vendors selling produce, meats, cheese, herbs, flowers and crafts.
Explore the Civil War history in Franklin
No day trip to Franklin is complete without a history lesson: Now that you’ve seen the city’s present-day boom, it’s important to understand its past and how we got here. Franklin is home to one of Tennessee’s most-visited Civil War battlefields, plus personal homes like the Lotz House that played their own role in the wartime efforts. The Battle of Franklin in 1864 was one of the bloodiest of the Civil War, with 30,000 Confederates arriving to the outskirts of Franklin on the morning of Nov. 30.
The Lotz House, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, sits at what’s often called “ground zero” of the Battle of Franklin. Standing inside will give you a front-row feel as to how the family of German immigrants endured being directly in the line of fire—they hid across the street in the Carter House—and how they managed to rebuild their home in the aftermath. Visits are only offered through guided tours or as part of one of the local walking tours, and photography isn’t allowed inside.
Across the street, the Carter House is an eponymous memorial to the family and the many heroes that emerged from the battle. During the war, the brick edifice was used as the federal command post while the Carter family took refuge in the cellar; visible evidence still lingers, including 1,000 bullet holes errantly scattered about, making it the most bullet-riddled building still standing from the Civil War.
The next stop on your Civil War tour of Franklin is Carnton, a former plantation built in 1826 by the McGavock family. By the Civil War, the plantation enslaved 44 people who worked the 700 acres; today, the property spans more than 1,400 acres. The Confederate Army of Tennessee charged the Federal lines at Franklin in what became one of the war’s bloodiest battles, larger even than Pickett’s Charge at Gettysburg. In less than five hours beneath the veil of darkness, 9,500 soldiers were killed, wounded, captured or went missing. Nearly 7,000 of those were Confederate soldiers.
Carnton quickly became the area’s largest field hospital, brimming with wounded and dying soldiers, many buried at what was then the McGavock family cemetery. Every November 30, the Battle of Franklin Trust hosts the Annual Illumination honors the 10,000 killed in the battle with a luminary for each, plus a reading of all the names.
The house remained in the McGavock family’s possession until 1911, when it was sold. In 1977, the house and ten acres were donated to the Carnton Association, and over the years it’s seen plenty of renovation and is now on the National Register of Historic Places.
Also part of Franklin’s Civil War story is Rippa Villa, which was built in 1855 just south in Spring Hill, and once considered one of the most prominent farms in Middle Tennessee. In 1864, the Greek Revival-style home was drawn into the Battle of Spring Hill, which came a day before the Battle of Franklin, as the strategic planning headquarters for Confederate generals. The Tennessee Campaign ticket gets you into the trio of Civil War sites—Carter House, Carnton and Rippa Villa—at a discounted rate.
What to know about visiting Franklin
Trying to decide the best time to visit Franklin is like choosing between bourbon and gin: an impossible task. Any month of the year will give you plenty to do, but I’m partial to the shoulder periods of August and May when crowds are low. If you love autumn, there’s no better place to soak up fall in Tennessee than in Franklin, and October and November, while busy, are undoubtedly lovely times to visit Franklin.
Then again, if you’re a Christmas fan, all of downtown Franklin transforms into a holiday wonderland from late-November through the new year.
Want to visit Franklin during a festival?
Here are a few of the city’s biggest annual events:
If you are culturally curious and love to explore new destinations, then a European River Cruise could be for you. On my cruises on the Rhine, Rhone and Danube I’ve visited vibrant capitals like Vienna and Amsterdam and explored charming riverside towns and villages, each with their stories to tell. For the richness and variety of the destination experience, combined with the convenience of staying on board a small floating hotel, I think a river cruise wins over an ocean cruise.
10 reasons to enjoy a European river cruise
Read on to discover whether you’ll enjoy a European River Cruise, as well as some ‘watch out’ reasons why this type of holiday may not be for everyone.
1. Get to the heart of the destination
River cruises are all about showcasing the destinations you visit. Where an ocean cruise often places more emphasis on the entertainment and activities on board, on a river cruise the destination is the star.
Due to their small size, river cruise ships offer limited facilities, but this is more than made up for by the places you visit each day.
These smaller ships can get you into the heart of some of the most beautiful cities in Europe, such as Budapest, Amsterdam and Vienna – the ones that an ocean cruise would have to bus you to.
Read about all the sights we explored in Amsterdam at the start of our river cruise through the Netherlands and Belgium – by taking a local ferry we found some gems of street art and trendy waterside cafes.
Visiting Amsterdam on a river cruise
You’ll also moor up within a short walk of charming riverside towns that you can easily explore on your own.
On this Rhine river cruise we visited a succession of small towns, such as Speyer, Cochem and Koblenz, each with their unique things to see, such as a medieval Jewish baths, a music museum and a romantic castle on the hill.
Cochem on our Rhine River Cruise
2. The convenience of only unpacking once
On a river cruise in Europe, you’ll enjoy the variety of a touring holiday, but the convenience of unpacking once.
No more stuffing creased clothes back into your case as you get ready to move to the next place. Instead, everything hangs neatly in your wardrobe, ready for you to look your best at the end of a day’s sightseeing.
Personally I prefer to travel light, even on a cruise holiday. But if you are the sort of person that packs an outfit for every eventuality, you won’t have to worry about lifting your luggage until the end of the trip.
Think of your river cruise ship as a floating boutique hotel. There may not be all the facilities of a larger ocean cruise ship, but you’ll have every comfort you need. And I didn’t miss those casinos, mini shopping malls, art galleries and waterslides that some of the larger cruise ships offer!
Restaurant on board a river cruise
Instead, what you’ll typically experience on board is a comfortable and modern en-suite bedroom, with views of the passing scenery. On the river cruises I’ve tried I invariably found a cabin equipped with plenty of plugs, a dressing table/desk space, wardrobe storage and everything else you’d normally find in a hotel room.
Add to this a spacious lounge for relaxing in the daytime and a dining room for lunch and evening meals. The sun deck on the top deck is perfect for relaxing and admiring the scenery, and there’s sometimes a small plunge pool, gym or area for deck games.
Heidelberg on our Rhine River Cruise
River cruise ships normally offer some low key evening entertainment, where local musicians or singers come on board, or there’s an event of cultural interest.
In other words you’ll have everything you need for a comfortable stay, but the experience is similar to staying in a smaller hotel, rather than a large scale resort.
4. Slow down and relax
River cruise ships move at a slower pace, allowing you to unwind as the scenery drifts by. Because most aspects of the holiday are taken care of once you step on board, the stressful elements of travel are removed.
Relax and watch the scenery drift by on a river cruise
You won’t need to worry about which bus to catch, which restaurant to choose or which tour to book, since they are all part of the package. And because you are normally accompanied by a tour guide or cruise representative, there’s always someone on hand to ask for information, so you can make the most of your free time on shore.
For those worried about sea sickness on board ocean cruises, there’s less to be concerned about, since the inland waterways and rivers of Europe are so much calmer than being at sea.
5. It’s on a small and friendly scale
Most river cruise ships have 100-200 guests in 80-100 cabins – that’s similar to a small to medium size hotel. It’s a far cry from the larger ocean cruise ships that sail with thousands of passengers on board, so makes for an intimate and cosy experience.
Staff will get to know you and your preferences, there’s always a friendly and familiar face around, and you’ll get to know your fellow guests more quickly. On one memorable occasion, we even got to meet the captain and go onto the bridge to chat about how he navigated the ship.
Since you will likely see the same guests on daily excursions, in the lounge or at dinner, it’s easy to make friends or find people to chat to. For this reason, I think river cruises are ideal for solo travellers, as well as couples and groups of friends.
The smaller size of ship also has it’s advantages when you check in and disembark, since there won’t be the long queues that you can find on larger ocean cruise ships.
5. River cruises to suit all budgets
While a river cruise is not the cheapest holiday option, there are a range of different providers, so that you can scale up or down according to your budget. Since the size of river cruise ship is limited by the river it travels on, the overall cost of your river cruise is determined mainly by the level of luxury on board and by the cost of the excursions.
Luxurious accommodation on a European river cruise
I’ve sailed on river cruise ships that had the luxurious decor of a 5 star hotel, with gorgeous artworks and excellent wines included at dinner. There were others that put a big emphasis on the type of excursion, offering culinary experiences such as cookery classes, wine tasting or adventure activities such as river kayaking.
Different styles of cabin on a European river cruise
On other cruise lines, the emphasis is on value for money, with a quality experience but at an all inclusive price. When deciding between different cruise lines, you can check all these things to decide which approach suits your budget and book accordingly.
6. A lot is included in your cruise
While river cruises are not the cheapest form of travel, you generally get excellent value for money. The package may vary depending which river cruise line you choose, but accommodation, meals, certain beverages, transport and some excursions are normally included.
That means you have peace of mind knowing that once you’ve paid for the holiday there shouldn’t be too many extras. There are a few things that vary by cruise line, so it’s worth making a comparison in these before you book.
Gratuities for the hard working staff are often an extra to budget for, although some cruise lines will include these. Optional tips for local tour guides are rarely included.
Drinks such as table wine, beer, coffees and soft drinks are normally included at meal times but may be an extra if you order from the bar in between meals. Premium brands or fine wines normally come at an extra charge.
Costs for excursions vary by cruise line. Often a walking tour or other excursion is included in the cost, but other premium excursions may be extra.
Flights to get you to the departure destination are not always included, since the cost of these will vary for different guests.
7. Immerse yourself in the local culture
On a river cruise, you can immerse yourself in the local culture much more fully than you do on most ocean cruises. The towns and cities of Europe are rich in beautiful and historic buildings as well as breathtaking scenery.
Most cruise lines arrange excursions with local tour guides, who are the experts in their location’s culture. They are the ones who will explain in depth the history and context of the places you’ll visit, as well as bringing them to life with entertaining stories and nuggets of local insights.
As a lover of art, I remember visiting the Van Gough Museum in Arles on a Rhone river cruise, then seeing the exact streets and buildings that featured in the pictures. Or exploring the wonderful riverside town of Heidelberg on a Rhine cruise, with its imposing castle and historic bridge.
Heidelberg on our Rhine River Cruise
Each river cruise may take you through multiple countries or regions of a country, each with their different landscapes, cultures and stories to tell. Sometimes the cultural flavour also comes on board, with talks, wine tastings or musical performances.
8. Enjoy the culinary highlights
While you don’t get the multiple themed restaurants of an ocean cruise ship or resort, we found the standard of food on board our river cruises was very high. Breakfast and lunch are often served buffet style, with a selection of hot and cold dishes, while dinner offers a menu with choice of a la carte dishes.
Daily menus manage to pack in a lot of variety, with themed menus on some evening. Most cruise lines also make an effort to reflect local flavours in their menus. So you may find the seasonal vegetable you saw in the market or local pastry you spotted in a shop window, on your menu at dinner that evening.
Another highlight of river cruises are the excursions with a culinary theme, such as wine tasting in the local vineyards, or cookery classes that highlight local dishes.
Alsace Wine Route on our Rhine River Cruise
If you take a river cruise on the Rhine, you will probably spot the vineyards on the river banks and have the opportunity to taste some of the delicious Riesling wines, as we did on an Alsace Wine Route excursion.
I also have fond memories of our bakery class in Vienna, as we plaited the dough and scattered poppy seeds over our rolls, before taking them back to the ship, where they were served for lunch.
9. Get active on a river cruise
While European river cruises are heaven for those who enjoy culture and history, there’s plenty of opportunity to stay active if you like. The riverside towns and cities you’ll visit lend themselves to walking tours, so you’ll find that your step count rises effortlessly as you explore each new destination.
Cochem on our Rhine River Cruise
More and more river cruise lines have bikes on board that they lend to their guests, so that you can explore the riverside paths as an alternative to a walking excursion. Others go further and offer activities such as kayaking or cycle tours as an alternative to the more cultural excursions.
On a river cruise in Austria, we took an excursion to paddle Canadian canoes down a section of the Danube. It gave me a different perspective as we drifted past the banks clothed in neat rows of vines, overlooked by romantic castles perched on rocky outcrops overlooking the river.
Canoing on the Danube in Austria
10. A relaxed dress code
Some ocean cruise lines have a more formal dress code, with the opportunity to dress up at black tie events, with tuxedos, glamorous gowns and sparkly cocktail dresses. But if the idea of having to pack lots of extra evening outfits fills you with dread, you can rest assured that the dress code on a river cruise is generally a lot more relaxed.
This style of cruising suits those who like to keep things casual, and understand that cobbled streets and walking tours call for comfortable footwear. On board you can keep things informal too, and while most guests do dress up a bit for dinner, a smart shirt or pretty top is all that’s really required.
Personally as I like to pack light, I welcome this kind of relaxed dressing where my clothes multi-task, being dressed up with a pretty scarf or some interesting jewellery. Read all my tips on what to pack on a river cruise.
If a river cruise sounds like your kind of holiday, check out some of the best river cruises in Europe on rivers such as the Rhine, Rhone or Danube.
Who may not love a European River Cruise
While we think that river cruising is a great way to experience Europe, there are some travellers who may not enjoy it.
Family Travellers
If you are travelling with a young family, this is probably not the holiday for you. River cruises traditionally attract an older and culturally curious traveller and many ships will not accept children under a certain age.
It’s true that there are river cruises aimed specifically at families. But personally I think families would be better to choose a larger ocean cruise or resort style holiday, where the wide range of facilities and space to run around is more suited to entertaining young children.
Adventure Travellers
River cruises in Europe offer a relaxed style of travel combined with some gentle outdoor activities. I’ve certainly enjoyed activities such as cycling and kayaking on river cruises, and have notched up some miles on the walking tours and sightseeing activities.
But if you’re into extreme sports or adventure activities, then you’d be better choosing a different kind of land based holiday, to suit your interests.
You want to explore a destination in depth
By its nature, river cruising means that you’re moving on to a different location each day. This kind of holiday is great to give you a taste of many different places, rather than a detailed exploration of each one. That’s not to say that the expert tour guides don’t give you a great deal of insight into the places you visit.
However, those who want to stay longer in a particular place can easily tack on some extra days at the beginning or end of the cruise. This is a great idea if you want to explore some of the great cities of Europe, that you may have passed through on your river cruise.
Are you looking to book a breakaway but are not sure where to go? We’ve got just the place, and that’s Madeira. Madeira is a stunning Portuguese island located in the Atlantic Ocean, known for its year-round mild climate, dramatic landscapes, and vibrant culture. It’s a destination where you can enjoy great food, stay in a luxurious hotel and not have to break the bank at the same time.
There is also a lot to do in Madeira, so depending on the type of holiday you would like, that will decide how you experience the island. If you’re after an adventure, you could book a walking holiday. If you would like to relax by the beach, there are plenty of hotels which offer sea views, or you could go inland and explore the unique landscape. There is something for everyone.
To give you some insight, we’ve put together a brief guide outlining three reasons why Madeira should be at the top of your list of must-visit destinations.
The food
A good place to start is the food. Madeira is known for its rich culinary scene, blending traditional Portuguese flavours with local island ingredients. From fresh seafood and grilled meats to tropical fruits and locally produced wines, the island offers something to satisfy every palate. If you’re a foodie, this is the place for you – you must try the espada com banana (scabbard fish with banana), bolo do caco (a traditional garlic flatbread), and a glass of sweet Madeira wine.
The many walking routes
We mentioned above that people visit Madeira and book a walking holiday. There is no surprise why, as when you visit, you’ll come across a plethora of hiking routes which you can enjoy. Each route has incredible views and will challenge you in various ways. If you are interested in hiking, a popular route is the one in the southwest of Madeira. Here you will discover Funchal, the capital of Madeira, and Ponta do Pargo, the westernmost point on the island. The best thing about going on a hike is that when you are finished, you’ve burnt plenty of calories, meaning you can eat guilt-free.
It’s a very safe destination
Feeling safe when going away on holiday is very important. The last thing you want is to be walking around your hotel, feeling uneasy or to explore the town and have to avoid unwanted attention. Madeira is known to be a very safe destination for tourists. The island has a low crime rate, and locals are welcoming and respectful toward visitors. The locals can really make a difference when going away, and that’s something Madeira excels at.
Madeira may not always be the first destination that comes to mind when planning a European getaway, but once you’ve been, you’ll be recommending it to everyone. Will you be booking a trip to Madeira, and if so, when are you planning on visiting? What are your reasons for booking a holiday in Madeira, and what type of holiday will you be booking? Let us know in the comment box below. We look forward to hearing from you.
The Greek island of Andros in the Cyclades, offers a network of well marked hiking trails, often with a beach to swim at the end. Now that’s my idea of a perfect activity holiday! I spent a week hiking in Andros on the Andros Routes, that offer scenic day hikes, easy circular routes and a 100km long distance trail.
Follow our 7 day itinerary for a hiking holiday in Andros with the best coastal views, charming mountain villages and swimming in river pools.
Hiking in Andros Greece
This article may contain affiliate links that provide commission on purchases you make at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Why go hiking in Andros?
Andros is unusual in the Greek islands for offering a well developed network of hiking trails, with something for every ability. Here’s why you should consider Andros for a hiking holiday:
Andros offers 240km of marked hiking trails that are easy to follow, with maps available to plan your hiking routes. The traditional kalderimia or mule paths between villages, have been restored and signposted by a group of volunteers through the Andros Routes organisation.
Hiking in Andros Greece
Unlike the other islands in the Cyclades group, Andros is relatively mountainous with elevations of up to 1000 metres. There are plenty of springs and rivers, that tumble down the hillside to the sea, creating a landscape with beautiful views, green wooded valleys and sheltered beaches for swimming.
While there is no airport, Andros is quick to access by ferry from Athens, making it an ideal add-on from a sightseeing trip in Greece’s capital. Andros is only 2 hours by ferry from the port of Rafina, which is 30 minutes from Athens airport or an hour from central Athens.
Like most of Greece, Andros enjoys a Mediterranean climate, with warm sunny days from March to November. So Andros is the ideal place for an active holiday in spring or autumn, to escape the cold of northern Europe.
Andros Chora Greece
About Andros Routes
Andros has established itself as a top Greek hiking destination, largely due to Andros Routes. The project was formed as a means of promoting sustainable tourism on Andros, to highlight the island’s unique landscapes and culture.
Apikia – Hiking in Andros Greece
In 2012 an initiative was started to restore and repair the island’s ancient paths, traditionally used to get from village to village. Now 240km of paths have been restored and signposted by groups of volunteers, with regular meetups during the low season to walk and maintain the paths.
In addition to the day hikes and shorter circular routes, there’s a 100km continuous long distance trail that links the north of the island with the south. In 2015 the Andros Routes paths were certified as one of the Leading Quality Trails by the European Rambler’s Association.
Due to Andros Routes, we found the hiking trails on Andros extremely easy to follow, with plenty of information and maps on their website to help plan our trip.
Pytharas waterfall Andros Greece
Our 5 days of hiking in Andros
We planned for 5 full days of hiking, with a bit of sightseeing and relaxation thrown in. If you allow a day on either side to travel from Athens to Andros by ferry, this makes an ideal 1 week hiking holiday itinerary.
We recommend staying in the island’s capital Chora, and there are some hotel recommendations later in the article.
We started our walk at Apikia, an attractive village in the hills, which is a 15 minute taxi ride from Chora. A few steps from the hiking information board is a marble water fountain for the Sariza Spring, which is known for its pure drinking quality.
Spring at Apikia – Hiking in Andros Greece
From the road at Apikia, we made a 30 minute circular detour to see the Pytharas waterfalls (Route 2a). The path followed a mountain stream up through a series of shallow pools, to a spot with flat rocks and a small waterfall cascading over the lip.
Pytharas waterfall – Hiking in Andros Greece
Returning to Apikia, the path led us downhill through a pretty rural landscape. We enjoyed a stop at the Agadaki Estate Botanical Garden, with a small museum to explain the unique habitats of Andros with terraces of old olives, fruit trees and aromatic plants.
Agadaki Estate Botanical Garden – Hiking in Andros Greece
At the next village of Stenies we climbed up a side path to see the abandoned stone water mill and ‘Fabrica’ meaning factory, which made bread and pasta in the past. We sat on the bridge below the mill for a picnic, and could have made a detour to see more of the village of Stenies set on the hillside.
Fabrica factory Stenies – Hiking in Andros Greece
With the sea in sight, it was an easy walk downhill to arrive at Gialia beach for a cool drink at the beach restaurant and refreshing swim in the quiet cove. Then we followed the road over the hill to Neimporio Beach, the main beach of Chora and back to the town.
Gialia Beach – Hiking in Andros Greece
Distance: 8.2 km Total time including stops: 6.5 hours
This was the longest day we walked, but thanks to the 15 minute taxi ride from Chora up to the monastery, it was mostly downhill. Although we arrived at the Panachrantou monastery around 9.30am, it was a while before we were invited in, since the friendly monk was busy sweeping the courtyard and chasing away the peacocks.
Panachrantou Monastery in Andros Greece
Panachrantou monastery is well worth a visit, with fortress like walls and ramparts from which we had stunning views over the valley. The monastery is said to have been founded in 960 AD when two monks saw a light which led them to a cave, in which they found an icon of the Virgin Mary.
Panachrantou Monastery in Andros Greece
The small church within the walls was unlocked by a monk, to show us the holy treasures of silver and gold, with beautiful icons and frescoes of the saints (unfortunately photos are not allowed). Then, as is traditional in Greek monasteries, we were offered a Loukoumi sweet in the monastery dining room.
Panachrantou Monastery in Andros Greece
From the monastery we followed the well marked Route 1 down the steep hill, passing the stone walls of a ruined hamlet. With beautiful views towards Chora, we traversed the hillside moving downhill until we crossed the stone arched bridge of Stoicheiomeni where the river bed was dry after the summer but would later fill up with winter rains.
Hiking from Panachrantou Monastery in Andros Greece
From the bridge it was a hot uphill walk, crossing the road at the newer part of Menites village, and a short uphill stretch into the old village with its famous spring. The route between houses and stone terraces was pleasantly shady, alongside a water channel that brought water from the spring, and following the path of the mountain stream.
Spring at Menites – Hiking in Andros Greece
We emerged back onto the road in the old village of Menites, to have a refreshing drink in one of the tavernas near the famous lion heads spouting the cold spring water.
Menites – Hiking in Andros Greece
From Menites it was a scenic walk along the valley past the scattered villages of Lamyra and Ypsilou before the path led us down to the beach just below Andros Chora.
Distance: 11.5 km Total time including stops: 8 hrs
Day 3 – River trekking to Gerolimni waterfall on Route 6
We had seen enticing pictures of the Gerolimni waterfall, with its natural swimming pool, fed by icy water from the spring at Vourkoti mountain village. After a bit of research, we realised that it might be difficult to find on our own, so we decided to book the excursion run by Explore Andros, to take us there.
Gerolimni waterfall – Achla river – Hiking in Andros Greece
Our guide from Explore Andros picked us up at the hotel in Chora and drove us on a steep, winding mountain road, past the scattered village of Vourkoti. This area is the highest point on Andros, often shrouded in cloud, although for us the skies were clear and the views amazing.
We arrived at the monastery of Agios Nikolaos, where we parked the car in the parking area above. Since the monastery was open, we took the opportunity to make a visit, and a lady opened the church to show us the beautiful icons with silver lamps hanging from the ceiling.
Agios Nikolaos monastery – Hiking in Andros Greece
By tradition the monastery is thought to have been built in the 8th century and is renowned for a miraculous icon that streams tears of fragrant myrrh. If you’d like to visit more of the mountain monasteries of Andros, Explore Andros offer this Monasteries of Andros half day tour.
From the monastery, we followed the zig zag path down into the valley of the Achla river, which reaches the coast at Achla beach. Soon, we were in shady woodland, crossing an arched stone bridge from the Venetian period and following the river upstream in the direction of Vourkoti.
Agios Nikolaos monastery – Hiking in Andros Greece
At some point the official Route 6 path veered away from the river, but this is where we continued along a faint path. Sometimes we clambered over boulders and fallen trees, changing levels on the old farming terraces, always keeping the river in sight.
Luckily our guide from Explore Andros knew the path well and was able to help us over any obstacles and guide us to the best footholds.
Achla River – Hiking in Andros Greece
After around an hour’s walking from the monastery, we could hear the waterfall gushing down the rockface, into a deep pool below us. Even though the walk had been mostly shaded by the trees, it was a refreshing sight, and we couldn’t wait to jump into the ice cold water.
Gerolimni waterfall – Achla river – Hiking in Andros Greece
While it was possible to jump or even dive in, I preferred to lower myself gingerly, despite the cold taking my breath away. First dip and we could barely breathe from the cold shock, second dip and we swam around briskly, third dip and we felt positively euphoric from the effects of the icy water!
Stone bridge Achla River – Hiking in Andros Greece
After relaxing a while by the pool, we made our way back on the same route. This time we posed for photos under the old stone bridge, which looked even more impressive from the river level.
Back at the monastery, we could see Achla Beach in the distance. It’s reputed to be one of the most beautiful beaches in Andros, but is only accessible on a long dirt track, or by hiking down from the monastery.
It would be wonderful to walk the whole Route 6 hike, which runs from the mountain village of Vourkoti past Agios Nikolaos monastery to Achla Beach.
The problem is that you need transport to reach the start of the walk at Vourkoti village, a 30-45 minute drive on the winding mountain road from either Batsi or Chora.
Near Vourkoti – view to Achla beach – Hiking in Andros Greece
Achla beach where the walk ends is also very remote, with no bus service. If you want to visit the beach without the hike, it’s probably best to take a boat trip, like the one offered by Explore Andros, allowing you to see some of the more remote northern beaches and coastline.
I’d highly recommend taking the River Trekking tour, but if you prefer to hike Route 6 independently using a hire car, I’d suggest parking at the Agios Nikolaos monastery. From the monastery it’s around 1 hour to hike downhill to Achla Beach and 1 hour back. You can also could attempt to hike in the other direction and try to find the Gerolimni waterfall and pool, again 1 hour there and 1 hour back.
Total time: 3hrs round trip hiking from the monastery to the waterfall, including the stop at the pool. Driving time to Agios Nikolaos monastery from Batsi 45 minutes. Driving time from Chora 30 minutes.
Day 4 – Route 3 – Syneti village – Syneti Beach – Chora
We were hoping to hike to Korthi, the smallest of the four towns of Andros. It sits on the coast in a bowl of mountains, to the south of Chora where we were staying. Korthi is so sleepy, it’s where the residents of laid back Chora go to unwind even more!
Ideally we would have taken a taxi part of the way to Syneti, and from there walked over the crest of the mountain downhill into Korthi. The timetable told us there would be an afternoon bus to bring us back to Chora.
Syneti beach – Hiking in Andros Greece
But on checking at the bus station, the afternoon bus did not seem to run after the end of September. We were worried that a taxi might not be available in Korthi, or be too expensive for the 45 minute drive back. So we decided to cut the route in half and just walk back from Syneti, incorporating a swim at Syneti bay.
Syneti village – Hiking in Andros Greece
Our taxi dropped us off by the road at the top of Syneti village, and we walked down through the mainly pedestrianised streets, with cute houses clinging to the hillside.
Folk Museum at Syneti village – Hiking in Andros Greece
There’s a folklore museum in the middle of the village, housed in an attractive building that was once the village’s primary school. It was closed when we visited, so we continued down the narrow road that snaked down the hillside towards the beach.
Syneti beach – Hiking in Andros Greece
The bay at Syneti is backed by a beach of small pebbles, with clear turquoise water and high rocky cliffs on the southern side. We had the beach entirely to ourselves, apart from a lone white goose who seemed to live there. After a refreshing swim, a couple of locals appeared who also enjoyed a solitary swim, one of them calling to the duck as if it was his friend.
Hiking in Andros Greece – Syneti to Chora
We discovered there was a direct path from the beach up the hillside, although a little overgrown, and used this as a short cut to get back to the village and the road. From there we picked up the Route 3 path, which mainly followed the road but short-cutting its curves.
Hiking in Andros Greece – Syneti to Chora
We had some lovely views over Chora and arrived at the broad sweep of Paraporti beach. Here there’s an area of wetlands along the Megalos river, with a larger flock of ducks, so perhaps our solitary feathered swimming companion was part of this group.
Paraporti beach – Hiking in Andros Greece
Later in the holiday I was able to visit Korthi by car, and the drive along the mountain road gave us stunning views, so it would definitely be worth trying to make the full hike down into Korthi if you get a chance.
Korthi Andros Greece
Day 5 – Route 17 – Easy circular walk from Chora around Livadia
For our final day hiking we decided to make an easy walk from Chora around the area of Livadia.
Livadia – Hiking in Andros Greece
This flat valley close to Chora is irrigated by the Megalos Potamos ( literally Great River ), so it’s full of small fields and citrus orchards, dotted with village houses.
Livadia – Hiking in Andros Greece
It was a peaceful, rural setting, punctuated only by the ubiquitous barking dogs that most home owners seemed to keep as an early warning of visitors.
Livadia – Hiking in Andros Greece
The hike meandered through the valley and up the slope on the other side, before circling back to bring us into Chora on a different path. Because we wanted to spend some of our last day on the beach, we retraced the same path back and arrived at Paraporti beach for a swim.
Paraporti beach – Hiking in Andros Greece
Other hikes to try in Andros
There are numerous other Andros Routes hikes to try depending on where you are staying, whether that’s Chora, Gavrio, Batsi or Korthi. Rather than trying to list them all, we recommend that you buy the map showing all the Andros Routes and check the descriptions on the Andros Routes website.
Ask a local or a taxi driver for the best place to be dropped off, and then walk from the high ground in the centre of the island, back down to the coast, to ensure the best views and minimise the uphill slog!
View of Paraporti beach from Chora – Hiking in Andros Greece
Best months to hike in Andros
The main tourist season in Andros is relatively short, stretching from beginning of May to end of September. The high season months of July and August are too hot for hiking (above 30 degrees C), and even second half of June and first half of September may see days of 25-30 degrees Celcius.
We found the optimum time on Andros to enjoy both good weather for hiking ( 20-25 degrees C) and also find most hotels, restaurants and tourism businesses open, is beginning May to mid June or mid September to mid October.
Hiking to Andros Chora Greece
If you are only there for the hiking and not so worried about having a smaller selection of hotels and restaurants to choose from, the shoulder season of March – April and October- November can have some sunny and warm days (18-25 degrees C) for hiking. Be aware that Greek Orthodox Easter usually falls in April and is a busy time for Greek visitors.
We spent a week hiking in the last week of September and found it to be a perfect time of year to visit, with great weather for both hiking and swimming, as well as the chance to enjoy the atmosphere of restaurants where you could sit outside in the evening.
I stayed on a further week at the beginning of October for sightseeing and noticed a big difference in atmosphere, as the temperatures started to drop in the evening and many restaurants and hotels had closed.
Where to stay in Andros
If hiking is your main purpose, I’d strongly recommend basing yourself for all or most of the time in Andros Chora, also known locally as just ‘Chora’ (pronounced Hora). The island’s capital is a charming small town, with a wide range of accommodation, shops and restaurants.
Andros Chora Greece
Many of the island’s hiking trails start or end in this area. It’s also easy to find a taxi at the taxi rank in the square to take you to a start of the trails that lead back into Chora.
Batsi Andros Greece
Many other hiking routes can be accessed from the island’s other three main towns of Korthi, Batsi and Gavrio. If you have more time, you may wish to tack on a couple of days staying at any of these, to make it easier to hike these routes.
Batsi Andros Greece
If you want to do some more remote mountain trails, add on a couple of days in Korthi, while if you prefer some hiking combined with relaxation, choose Batsi for its holiday resort vibe. Gavrio is mainly a ferry port with no beach, but staying here would allow you to access some of the island’s northern trails.
Korthi Andros Greece
If you prefer to base yourself in one place, but are keen to hike some of the more remote routes to the north or south of Andros, I recommend contacting Explore Andros based in Chora. They have knowledgeable guides and can arrange a bespoke itinerary that includes drop off and pick ups in remote locations where there’s no public transport.
Venetian fort Andros Chora Greece
They are also the ideal partner if you are arranging a group hiking trip, as they also own or manage a range of hotels and other accommodation, so can offer a complete package for a group hiking holiday.
Recommended hotels in Chora
Archontiko Eleni (we stayed here) – this small hotel in a neo-classical townhouse, is a good value option with elegant traditional style. It offers breakfast and is well located by the main square, a short walk from all the restaurants and shops.
With only 8 rooms the hotel feels like staying in someone’s rather grand home. This is a good option for hikers since it opens all year round, and there’s public parking nearby if you have a hire car.
Anemomiloi Andros Boutique Hotel (we stayed here) – a stylish boutique hotel with swimming pool on the edge of Chora town. They offer a good breakfast but there’s also a small kitchenette in the rooms.
The hotel is attractively designed with different level rooms overlooking a central courtyard or countryside views. The family who own the hotel also run Explore Andros, making this a popular choice for walkers who use the tour company to arrange their transport.
Castel Abaso Boutique Apartments – a stylish self catering option in the oldest part of Chora, with 3 separate apartments, two of which have private roof terraces. This part of Chora is entirely pedestrianised and quiet at night, so it’s a good option for those who don’t have a hire car.
The apartments are popular with couples, families or small groups who want to have a bit more space, while being a few steps away from the restaurants and amenities of Chora.
In Batsi, we recommend Hotel Chryssi Akti, which is well located in the centre of the town opposite the beach, but there’s a wide range of accommodation in Batsi. In Korthi there are only a few studio or apartment options – check out the accommodation in Korthi here. Gavrio also has a limited range of accommodation, since it is the island’s main ferry port – check out accommodation in Gavrio here.
What to pack for hiking in Andros
Here’s what you need for tackling the Andros Routes hiking trails, assuming you are mainly doing the day hikes like us. The shorter, circular trails that take a couple of hours don’t need any special equipment, other than trainers or hiking shoes.
Hiking in Andros Greece
Andros Routes map and guidebook
Andros Routes produce a map of all the trails, which is recommended for planning and navigation. The map should be sufficient to guide you, as all the trails are well marked.
However, if you want more information Andros Routes also produce a guidebook, with detailed descriptions of the trails. All profits from the map and guidebook go to support the work of Andros Routes in maintaining the trails – more information here.
You can buy this map on arrival in Andros at a number of hotels and locations, or in the UK from Stamfords bookshops – online order here. The Andros Routes hiking guide can also be purchased on Andros, and the e-book is available to download in English and Dutch – more information here.
Use the Andros Routes map and guidebook showing all the Andros Routes trails for planning and navigation
Hiking / trail shoes
I recommend sturdy hiking shoes, but if you only plan to do one or two trails, well supported trainers would also be fine. Hiking boots are too hot for most times of year in Greece, but fine for early (March / April) or late (November) in the season. My current summer hiking shoes are from Keen – I like the NXIS EVO or Terradora styles.
Andros Chora Greece
Hiking shorts
These are ideal for the warmer months May – September. Full or 3/4 length walking trousers would be suitable for early (March / April) or late (November) in the season. Quick dry fabric is ideal for overnight washing.
A day backpack
I find a 15L or 20L backpack is the ideal size for day hiking. In my backpack I carry water, picnic or snacks, map, small medical kit, sunscreen, spare socks, an extra layer for warmth or waterproof jacket for showery weather. I also keep valuables like cash, bank cards and mobile phone in a separate waist pouch.
Hiking to Andros Chora Greece
Hiking poles
This is an optional item as not everyone likes hiking with poles. However, I always hike with them as they give support on steep or slippery paths and reduce the strain on knees and ankles. My favourites are these collapsible Leki poles.
They aren’t the cheapest, but they are well made, sturdy and best of all collapse down for packing in a case or rucksack. I’ve had years of wear out of mine so they were a good investment.
Other items of clothing
Pack sports t-shirts or any t-shirt that’s comfortable for hiking, a light sweatshirt or waterproof, hiking socks, a hat or cap to protect from the sun, sunglasses.
How difficult is the hiking in Andros?
I’d rate most of the trails in Andros as easy to moderate. The longer day hikes are moderate in length and difficulty, with a few steep climbs or descents. However there are plenty of shorter or easier routes where you can park the car and make a circular trail for an hour or two. The trails are well marked and maintained by the Andros Routes volunteers, so it’s difficult to get lost.
Andros Routes signposts Greece
I consider myself moderately fit and was able to do the trails with no special training. Having said that, we did take care to start the trail at the highest points, so that we could walk downhill for most of the way, which was much more enjoyable than a gruelling uphill slog!
Transport for hiking in Andros
The biggest challenge was the logistics in reaching the start of some of the more remote trails, or how to get back at the end of a one way route, where there’s no public transport.
Since public buses in Andros are designed mainly to take people to the ferry ports, you’ll need to overcome this issue, either by budgeting for longer taxi rides (€20-30) or by making transfer arrangements with a tour company like Explore Andros (ideal if there’s a group of you).
A hire car can be used to reach all the trails, however most of the more remote or scenic trails are one way, so a drop off / pickup is preferable.
Andros Chora Greece
How to get to Andros
Ferry to Andros
There’s no airport on Andros, so most visitors will fly into Athens or Mykonos airports, then take the ferry. Ferries run from the Athens port of Rafina to Andros and then on to neighbouring Tinos and Mykonos. They come back from Mykonos by the same route, stopping at Tinos, Andros and then Rafina.
Ferry at Gavrio Port Andros Greece
Ferries run several times a day from Rafina ( Fast Ferries or Golden Star Ferries) and the journey takes 2 hours, or 1 hour 10 mins on the slightly more expensive Seajets ferry. From Mykonos, the ferry time is 2 hours 25 mins. When we travelled the one way ferry ticket from Rafina to Andros was from €25 per person for a foot passenger.
Although you can buy ferry tickets at the port, we found it easier to book online in advance using a service like Ferryscanner. You’ll receive a ticket with bar code by email so that you can go straight on board the ferry. Check the ferry fares, timetables and book your ferry here.
Ferry at Gavrio Port Andros Greece
On arrival in Andros
The ferries arrive at Gavrio Port in Andros, so you will probably need to arrange a taxi transfer from the port to either Batsi (15 mins) or Chora (45-60 mins), depending on where you are staying. Alternatively, the KTEL public buses run from Gavrio port to Batsi and Chora, and are timed to leave soon after the ferry’s arrival.
How to get to Rafina port
To reach Rafina from Athens Airport, you can take a taxi (30 mins) or a regular KTEL Attikis bus (30 mins) – find the timetable here. The bus stop is opposite the Sofitel Hotel, leaving the arrivals hall by Exit 3.
Ferry at Gavrio Port Andros Greece
To reach Rafina from central Athens you have a few options. You could take the KTEL Attikis bus from Nomismatokopio Station in Athens to Rafina (60 mins). Alternatively take Line 3 of the Athens Metro to Athens airport and from there take the bus or a taxi to Rafina. The most expensive option, but economic if there is a group of you, is to arrange a taxi from any point in Central Athens to Rafina (60 mins).
Read our tips for hiking the Thames Path National Trail, a 300km long distance path that runs from the source of the River Thames in Gloucestershire, to the start of the Thames estuary in London. On the way you’ll see the river transition from a muddy puddle, through tranquil water meadows and an ever more urban landscape, until you reach the historic landmarks of London.
Tips for hiking the Thames Trail
How long does it take to walk the Thames Path Trail?
The path is divided into 15 day long stages, which can be walked consecutively or in any order. Some of the days break easily into a couple of shorter half day sections, if you want to add additional rest time or sightseeing stops.
We chose to walk the trail in stages of 1-2 days over the course of a year. If want to walk the whole trail but have limited time, one option is to miss out some of the stages and just walk the parts that interest you most. I think this is better than trying to speed up the walk and then missing the points of interest along the way.
Inglesham – Thames Path National Trail
We found the timings and distances in our guidebook to be pretty accurate, but they didn’t allow for any stops, so we normally added 1-1.5 hours to each day. Our average walking speed including all breaks was around 3.4 miles per hour and we normally walked around 6 hours each day.
I’ve broken the trail into 4 separate articles, each covering 3-4 days that could be walked over a long weekend. You can read all the articles below.
What can I expect to see on the Thames Path National Trail?
From a trickle of water at its source, the Thames meanders through the Cotswolds in verdant fields and water meadows, transitioning from stream to navigable river. For these first four days, the path offers a taste of English rural life, strolling through fields and small villages.
Along this part of the Thames lie charming towns and villages, that prospered from trade flowing down the river, transporting goods from the Cotswolds to London.
You’ll enjoy wild and isolated water meadows, but there’s also the pleasant buzz of canalboats passing through flower filled locks and riverside towns going about their business.
This section offers a blend of rural to urban landscapes, as the river flows steadily towards the outskirts of London. You’ll pass the prosperous riverside towns of Henley and Marlow, known for their rowing traditions and ornate Edwardian boathouses.
As the railways developed westwards from the 1850s, this stretch of the Thames came within the reach of Londoners for day trips, when regattas and rowing boats were all the rage.
The final section of the walk brings you through the centre of London. You’ll pass through the leafy suburbs of Richmond and Kew, past the historic landmarks of central London, ending in the old industrial area of London’s Docklands at Woolwich.
How difficult is the Thames Path National Trail?
I’d rate the Thames Path as an easy route, but one that’s most enjoyable for all ages and abilities. The Thames Path is well marked in all parts of the route, even the most rural.
Mostly the path runs alongside the river, so it’s difficult to get lost. The path is flat and varies between rural grass or stone footpaths and, as you get closer to London, paved paths alongside the river.
Approaching Richmond Bridge – Thames Path National Trail
The exception is the first few stages in the Cotswolds that can be muddy and a bit slippery in autumn and winter. If this is a problem, I’d skip sections 1 and 2 from Kemble to Lechlade and start the walk at Lechlade.
Oxford Towpath – Thames Path National Trail
The only challenge we found was that a couple of the rural sections between Lechlade and Oxford are quite long, without an obvious place to break the day’s walk. In this case you might have to plan for an early start with only short breaks.
There are also a few sections where footbridges or parts of the path may be closed for repairs (often for months or years at a time). This is an annoyance, but there are always detours in place which may add to length of the walk. Where we encountered these, I’ve explained the options in my more detailed articles about each section of the walk.
Where to stay on The Thames Path Trail
In most of the small towns in the Cotswold sections of the walk, you’ll find a choice of pubs, B&Bs and hotels. We normally stayed in a pub, as they offer modest but comfortable accommodation and reasonably priced food in the evening.
Stay in riverside pubs on the Thames Path National Trail
Another great choice for walkers is a B&B, where you’ll normally find a friendly welcome and comfortable, well priced room. However, you’ll need to find a place to eat in the evening and these days breakfast may or may not be included, so check first.
If you prefer something a bit more stylish and luxurious, some of the larger towns and villages have very nice hotels. If you like camping, there are some campsites on the route, but personally I’d rather pay a little more and not have to carry all the kit.
I use Booking.com to book hotels, as it’s easy to see all information about the hotels and keep track of the bookings, as well as obtain their Genius discounts if you’re a regular user. You can also find all the places we stayed on Expedia if that’s your preference.
Henley Thames Path National Trail
We didn’t find any hostels along the trail, although once you reach the London sections of the route, these may be a short bus or train ride away. A couple of the more rural stretches of the trail only have one or two options for accommodation, in which case you’ll need to book up in advance.
List of recommended accommodation for each day
Here’s our list of recommended places to stay at the end of each day’s walk, and you can find more options in the relevant articles.
What to wear on the Thames Path Trail
The trail is mostly easy and flat, so if walking short sections of the trail you don’t need any special clothing. However as we wanted to be comfortable for full day walks in all weathers here’s what we used.
Marlow Bridge Thames Path National Trail
Hiking boots, hiking shoes or supportive trainers – the more rural sections of the walk can get muddy or even waterlogged outside the summer months. My favourite hiking shoes are from Keen as I find their wide toe-bed very comfortable and I’d recommend the Keen Targhee or Nxis Evo hiking shoes for this kind of trail.
Quick drying walking trousers, leggings or shorts. Avoid materials like denim or heavy cotton that won’t easily dry after a rain shower.
T-shirts that are comfortable and breathable – I usually wear a sports t-shirt.
Wearing a sports t-shirt on the Thames Path National Trail
A neckerlike the ones from Buff guards against chills around the neck in Spring and Autumn and can also double up as a beanie style hat. A hat for either cold weather or to shade against the sun like this sports cap is also useful.
Using my hiking pole on the Thames Path National Trail
Packing for the Thames Path Trail
If walking just a day at a time, where you can leave most of your luggage in a car or hotel, you’ll need a day sack. I find 15 – 20 Litres is about the right size for me, like this Osprey Hikelite 18L day sack.
If you are walking for several days at a time from hotel to hotel, you’ll need a slightly larger rucksack to accommodate overnight clothes. In this case I’d recommend a 25 – 30L rucksack like the Osprey Hikelite 26L rucksack.
Fiddler’s Bridge Oxford – Thames Path National Trail
In my day sack I normally pack;
Tissues / wet wipes / a small amount of toilet paper
A small home made first aid kit with plasters and basic medication
A few reuseable ziplock bags for picnics and other small items
Water bottles – I don’t have a special water bottle but instead have several 500ml plastic water bottles which I refill and re-use, then recycle once beyond reuse. For this walk I carried 3 x 500ml water bottles as there were plenty of places to fill up along the route.
Picnic items and snacks – these can easily be purchased in a convenience store at the start of each day.
A spare pair of socks in case your feet get soaked
My lightweight fleece and waterproof jacket are stored in my backpack when not worn.
Best time of year to walk the Thames Path National Trail
The optimum months for walking the Thames Path Trail as a whole are May, June and September. These are the months when you’ll find most sunny days and the river and surrounding meadows are less likely to be waterlogged.
Flooding can be an issue along the Thames, especially in the winter months. Before making firm plans you can check for flood warnings along the Thames Path Trail here and for detours on the path here.
Hiking the Thames Path National Trail in early summer
Spring (March – May) – you may get bright sunny days for day walks. However until May the more rural sections of the path may experience flooding or be waterlogged.
Summer (June – August) – warm sunny days and the riverside meadows and footpaths will be at their driest. These are the months when temperatures can climb so check the weather forecast and avoid really hot days. Accommodation will be most expensive in summer, especially in July and August. On the sections that run through London you may find a lot of tourists.
Hiking the Thames Path National Trail in Autumn
Autumn (September – October) – the weather is normally bright and sunny, but as you move into winter the paths may become more muddy after rain. Check for flood warnings after heavy rain.
Winter (November – February) – avoid walking the more rural sections of the trail during the winter months due to muddy paths and flooded water meadows that lead to endless detours. However, on bright winter days it is possible to walk the paved sections of the path in and around London. Check first for flood warnings, as the river may overflow even paved riverside paths.
Hiking the Thames Path in winter
Best day walks on the Thames Path National Trail
If you only have time to walk a few sections of the whole trail, these were our favourites;
Day 4 – Newbridge to Oxford – an idyllic rural stretch with pretty stone bridges and locks, although it’s difficult to get to Newbridge by public transport – Read more about this stretch.
Northmoor Lock on the Thames path national trail
Day 5 – Oxford to Abingdon – from the ancient university town through leafy water meadows to the attractive town of Abingdon – Read more about this stretch.
Osney Lock Oxford Thames Path National Trail
Day 9 – Henley to Marlow – pretty villages and riverside spots on part of the river famous for its rowing regattas (although you may have to make a detour if Temple Bridge is closed) – Read more about this stretch.
Thames Path at Marlow Bridge
Day 10 – Marlow to Windsor – picturesque riverside towns with views of Edwardian mansions and boathouses – Read more about this stretch.
Cliveden Boathouse – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail
Day 13 – Kingston to Putney – past the prettiest London suburbs of Teddington, Richmond, Kew and Putney – Read more about this stretch.
Richmond on the Thames Path National Trail
Day 14 – Putney to Tower Bridge – covering the South Bank and most of London’s historic landmarks – Read more about this stretch.
South Bank on the Thames Path National Trail
Attractions to visit on the Thames Path National Trail
If you are interested in visiting historic attractions on your journey, these are worth a stop, although you may need to build in extra days to do them justice. Check opening times of individual attractions as some may not be open all year round.
Kelmscott Manor on the Thames path national trail
Stage 3 – Kelmscott Manor – the manor house and gardens were owned by 19th century artist William Morris, whose designs epitomise the ‘Arts and Crafts’ movement.
Day 4 & 5 – Oxford – this ancient university town is worthy of adding an extra day to soak up the beautiful architecture of the colleges. Read more about things to do in Oxford.
Day 10 – Cookham – the pretty village has the Stanley Spencer gallery dedicated to the 20th century artist Stanley Spencer who lived here.
Stanley Spencer Gallery in Cookham – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail
Day 10 & 11 – Windsor – Windsor Castle is one of the main residences of the English Royal Family with a chapel where many of them were married.
Day 11 – Runnymede Meadow – this is the location of an historic meeting in 1215 between King John and his barons, leading to the Magna Carta, which curtailed the powers of the monarchy.
Day 12 – Hampton Court – the royal palace with extensive gardens was the home of King Henry VIII and later monarchs.
Gates of Hampton Court – Thames Path National Trail
Day 13 – Ham House – a 17th century mansion with formal gardens, managed by the National Trust.
Day 13 – Kew Gardens – the Royal botanical gardens with floral displays, exhibitions and Victorian glasshouses.
Day 13 – Barnes Wetland Centre – a nature reserve that was created from the Barn Elms reservoir.
Day 15 – Greenwich – there are several historic attractions here that come under the Royal Museums Greenwich, including the Royal Naval College, Queen’s House, National Maritime Museum and Royal Observatory.
Where to take a rest day on the Thames Path National Trail
The best places to plan a rest day are;
Oxford – Days 4 & 5 – explore the ancient colleges and soak up the history of this university town. Read about all the things to do in Oxford.
Henley on the Thames Path National Trail
Henley – Day 8 & 9 – a pretty riverside town famous for its rowing regatta in July.
Windsor – Day 10 & 11 – a sizeable town with the attractions of Windsor Castle and nearby Cliveden.
Richmond Hill – Thames Path National Trail
Richmond – Day 13 – a pretty riverside suburb of London with a park, green spaces, riverside walks, shops and restaurants. Read about the view from Richmond Hill.
London – Day 14 & 15 – the city has numerous cultural attractions, museums, shops and interesting neighbourhoods to explore.
Tower Bridge on the Thames Path National Trail
Can you camp on the Thames Path National Trail?
Wild camping without permission is not permitted by the Thames Path, which mainly passes across privately owned farmland. The first few stages between the Thames Source and Oxford are quite rural but the landscape is open fields with few secluded spots.
After Oxford the area around the river becomes more heavily populated, so it would be difficult to find a quiet camping spot other than in an official campsite.
Thames Path National Trail Pangbourne to Goring
There are a few campsites that are close to the Thames Path, although some only operate in the summer months.
Day 1 – Source to Cricklade – Elm Lea Camping near Cricklade (Camping and Caravanning Club members only site)
Day 2 – Cricklade to Lechlade – Bridge House Campsite near Lechlade (closed in winter)
We found it easy to find picnic supplies and places to eat along the trail. Most of the start and end points of the day’s stage are in small towns or villages, with a convenience store selling a range of picnic supplies.
The place you stay overnight will have at least one pub and often a range of restaurants for an evening meal.
Paper Boat Cafe Oxford Thames Path National Trail
Every stage also passes at least one pub or cafe on the route, although most pubs don’t open until around 11am in case you are looking for an early coffee. On the more rural section in Gloucestershire and Oxfordshire, you may need to check what’s available at your start and end point, since occasionally it’s just a pub with no convenience store.
In this case you’ll need to carry enough picnic supplies for a two days. We would typically pack a picnic and snacks to eat throughout the walk, but make one or two stops for coffee or a drink at a pub or cafe. Tap water in England is fine to drink and any pub or cafe will fill up your water bottle for you.
Tearoom at Cookham – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail
Transport on The Thames Path Trail
I walked the Thames Path trail with my sister in 2 day stages and we tried to use public transport where possible.
We found the closer you get to London, the more regular and easy the public transport becomes. In the more rural sections of Gloucestershire near the Thames source, there is more limited public transport and even the buses may not take you where you need to go.
On the upper part of the river, from the Thames source to around Reading we found transport needed to be planned carefully.
Cows near Cookham – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail
As we live fairly locally, we were able to get around this by driving to a start or end point and then using the bus or train to return to the car at the end of the day. On some occasions we had to use two cars, positioning one at either end of the day’s walk.
Of course, transport is much less of an issue if you plan to walk all 15 days sequentially. Another good option is to break the walk into sections of 2-4 days, starting and ending at the locations that are most accessible by bus or train (use Trainline to plan your train journeys).
For this reason I have written separate articles, each covering a 3-4 day section of the trail, that starts and ends at a convenient point with good transport links. The articles below have more detailed public transport information for each day’s walk.
Many of the points along the Thames Path are accessible by train, especially the Great Western Railway line that runs from London to Bristol. We recommend using Trainline to check timings and book train tickets online.
There’s also a pretty good network of local buses running between smaller towns and villages, but you need to check timetables carefully as they may run every hour or less.
I used my mapping app to identify which buses serve which routes, then used the bus provider’s website to check exact timings. Once you get close to London, there’s an excellent network of overground trains, underground trains and local buses.
In the rural areas there aren’t lots of taxis, but calling one from a pub (they can often give you the number of a local taxi company) would be an option if you are really stuck.
You can find detailed transport information for each day in my individual articles about the Thames Path National Trail.
We walked the Thames Path from its source in the Cotswolds to its end in London. This seemed to us the most logical route, since we saw the river’s evolution from a muddy ditch to a mighty flow through London’s impressive urban landscape.
Thames Source – Thames Path National Trail
We were also influenced by living in Bristol, so we started at the point closest to us. However, if you live in London it might make sense to start there and follow the river to its source.
You might also be influenced by the season you decide to walk, since the more rural sections closest to the source can be very muddy and waterlogged through autumn and winter. Other than these considerations there is no right or wrong place to start and end the Thames Path.
Lechlade on Thames Trail
Is the Thames Path easy to follow?
We found the Thames Path extremely easy to follow. All the sections are well marked with clear signposts and wherever we met a diversion, due to flooding or building works, this was also well signposted. There are other footpaths that cross the Thames Path, but it was easy to distinguish between the Thames Path and other footpaths.
As it generally follows the river, you can’t go far wrong if you have it in your sight, although it’s worth mentioning that sometimes the path does divert a little way from the Thames river itself. It would certainly be possible to follow the Thames Path Trail by just following the signposts.
Wandsworth – Thames Path National Trail
However, we do recommend taking a guidebook to get more information about the places you’ll pass, distance and timings and some history and context for the walk.
The guidebook we used and recommend is the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide. We liked the easy to follow maps and the fact that it’s just as easy to follow for walking in either direction.
Resources for hiking the Thames Path National Trail
Train bookings – we recommend Trainline for easy online rail bookings. Buses can be paid for by tapping on and off with your debit card.
Book accommodation: to book hotels online and conveniently have all your bookings in once place, we used Booking.com but if you prefer you could also use Expedia.
Guidebook – we used and recommend the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide – this is the one we used and we liked the easy to follow maps and the fact that it’s just as easy to follow for walking in either direction.
I have to confess that I was a little skeptical about Santorini before deciding to spend 3 days there. Given the popularity of this island and the hype that surrounds it, I was sure we’ll be faced with crowds and over-tourism that will kill the joy of visiting it. But I was wrong. The island’s …
Walking from Oxford to Henley on the Thames Path National Trail, you’ll enjoy wild and isolated water meadows, but there’s also the pleasant buzz of canalboats passing through flower filled locks and riverside towns going about their business. Along this part of the Thames lie charming towns and villages, that prospered from trade flowing down the river, transporting goods from the Cotswolds to London.
Thames Path National Trail Day 5-8 Oxford to Henley
This article may contain affiliate links that provide commission on purchases you make at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Days 5-8 – Oxford to Henley
The beauty of the Thames Path National Trail is that the 15 days of walking can easily be split up into sections, if you don’t want to walk it in one go. My sister and I took around a year to complete the whole trail, normally walking for a couple of days at a time.
We chose to start from the Thames Source and walk towards London, but this four day leg from Oxford to Henley or any part of the trail can be walked in either direction.
As the Thames Path is 15 days long, I decided to break my articles into 4 sections, each covering 3-4 days walking on the trail. I hope to provide detailed information for walkers on all the practicalities such transport and accommodation, as well as what to see on the trail.
You’re reading the second of the 4 articles describing Days 5-8 of our walk on the Thames Path National Trail, and if you haven’t already done so, you can also read:
Essential planning for Days 5-8 – Oxford to Henley
If you are walking sections 5-8 of the Thames Trail over a 4 day period, here are the planning essentials. Day 8 is one of the longest sections at 17 miles, so you might want to consider breaking it up at Reading, which would add a fifth day to the walk.
Book the train or coach to Oxford for the start of the walk – There are direct trains from London Paddington or London Marylebone. We recommend Trainline for easy rail and coach bookings. You can also get coaches from London and other cities to Oxford, or from London take the frequent Oxford Tube bus service.
Book accommodation: For the night before starting the walk at Oxford (if required) – there are numerous options, check these Oxford hotels | Day 5 Abingdon – Old Abbey House | Day 6 Wallingford – The Town Arms | Day 7 Pangbourne – Elephant Hotel | Day 8 ends in Henley. This is a long walking day so you may prefer to break it in two at Reading – The Market House or walk the full day to Henley – The Catherine Wheel
Book the train from Henley at the end of this 4 day section – if heading to London you can change at Twyford, for the GWR Bristol to London Paddington line or the Elizabeth Line. We recommend Trainline for easy rail bookings.
Guidebook – buy the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide – this is the one we used and found it excellent for walking in either direction. While a guidebook is not essential, we enjoyed using this one as it added useful information and context to our walk.
I’ll be publishing further articles in this Thames Path series very soon. In the meantime, if you have questions about our walk on the Thames Path National Trail, feel free to email me at heather(at)heatheronhertravels(dot)com
Osney Bridge Oxford Thames Path National Trail
Day 5 – Oxford to Abingdon
The university town of Oxford, with colleges dating back to the 13th century, is well worth lingering a while. So if you enjoy sightseeing, arrive the day before your walk, allowing extra time to soak up all that history and gorgeous architecture. You can get some more inspiration from my article: A weekend in Oxford – our 48 hour itinerary
The day’s walk starts at Osney Bridge which is conveniently close to Oxford’s train station. Through Oxford, the Thames ribbons into a number of canals and waterways. The towpath is shared with a constant flow of cyclists, so you should keep an eye out for them or risk being run down!
Osney Lock Oxford Thames Path National Trail
Finally the Thames path leaves Oxford behind at Folly Bridge, named after a quirky 19th century building and tower, with a wharf opposite the Head of the River pub, where boat trips leave for Abingdon.
Folly Bridge Oxford Thames Path National Trail
The river, which is also known as the Isis at this point, now meanders through meadows until you pass Isis Farmhouse. Operating as a pub open mainly at weekends, this old farmhouse has large gardens to sup a pint overlooking the river.
Isis Farmhouse Oxford Thames Path National Trail
Nearby is Iffley Lock with its arched stone punter’s bridge, which is the starting point for the Oxford University boat races. The next stretch includes Sandford Lock and then a long walk alongside water meadows until you reach Abingdon Lock.
Heather at Iffley Lock Thames Path National Trail
From here it’s just a short stroll to Abingdon Bridge, which you cross to enter the town.
Abingdon Thames Path National Trail
Day 5 – Distance and timings
Oxford to Abingdon is aprox 9.5 miles / 15.2 km. It took us around 5.5 hrs to walk, including a coffee stop at Paper Boat Cafe and a picnic break at one of the locks.
Day 5 – Where to stay
Oxford – there’s a huge choice of pubs, guest houses, hotels and hostels, but book ahead as the city is a popular tourist hotspot – check all Oxford hotels.
The Old Abbey House is located in Abingdon, 10 miles from University of Oxford
Abingdon – the town offers a wide range of pubs, hotels and guest houses for accommodation. For charming and affordable accommodation in Abingdon, we recommend S Howard B & B where we stayed or for a centrally located alternative try Old Abbey House.
Abingdon Thames Path National Trail
Day 5 – Where to eat
Oxford – there are many food shops, cafes and pubs at Oxford. By Folly Bridge, we enjoyed a coffee overlooking the river at the charming Paper Boat Cafe. Opposite the bridge is the Head of the River pub, which would be another dining option.
Paper Boat Cafe Oxford Thames Path National Trail
Pub stops after this are Isis Farmhouse (Friday – Sunday from midday) or the Kings Arms at Sandford Lock.
Abingdon – there are many shops and restaurants in the town, and we enjoyed a drink in the riverside garden of the Nag’s Head.
Nag’s Head Abingdon Thames Path National Trail
Day 5 – Transport for this stage
Oxford – the town has a station and is well connected by rail and coach to London and other towns on the Thames path.
Abingdon – there is no station, the nearest being at Radley, which is 15 mins by No 35 bus or 1 hour walk. From London take the train from Paddington station to Didcot Parkway, then change for the branch line to Radley.
Frequent buses ( X1, X2, X3, X15) run between Oxford and Abingdon and the journey time is 30 minutes.
Meadows near Sandford Thames Path National Trail
Options by car – At both Oxford and Abingdon, there are several public car parks to choose from, where you can leave your car for the day. In Oxford try the Oatlands Road Car Park in Botley, or the Port Meadow South Parking, both of which are close to the Thames Path.
For this leg we left our car in the car park at Abingdon, took the bus to Oxford, then walked the Thames path back to Abingdon, where we stayed the night.
Osney Bridge Oxford Thames Path National Trail
Day 6 – Abingdon – Dorchester – Wallingford
Abingdon is a pretty riverside town, named after the Medieval Abbey that was founded here. Crossing the stone bridge from the town, the path runs alongside water meadows to Dorchester and this section has a rather wild and isolated feel.
Abingdon Thames Path National Trail
In two sections at Culham and Long Wittenham, the path follows a canal making a short cut away from the meandering loops of the river. Clifton Lock was a riot of colour with gardens in full bloom and a friendly lock-keeper who sold us ice creams.
Clifton Hampden Lock Thames Path National Trail
The riverside village of Clifton Hampden makes a good lunch stop since it has this section’s only pub, The Barley Mow. Another big loop through water meadows brings you to Day’s Lock close to Dorchester, although the town is out of sight.
Heather at Clifton Hampden Thames Path National Trail
It’s possible to walk into Dorchester and break your journey here, but we continued on to Shillingford Bridge, where the footpath takes a short diversion away from the river.
Shillingford Bridge Thames Path National Trail
At Benson Lock you need to cross the river, but the footbridge was undergoing repairs and we took the ferry that runs back and forth instead. Check that in advance that the ferry is running, or you may have to take a diversion from the footpath to reach Wallingford. Benson Lock also has a busy Waterside Cafe, that serves the customers of the holiday boat hire business that operates from here.
Heather on the Benson Lock Ferry Thames Path National Trail
Once you’ve crossed by ferry at Benson Lock, it’s a short walk to Wallingford, an attractive market town with shops and cafes around the central square.
Day 6 – Distance and timings
Abingdon to Wallingford is aprox 14 miles / 22.5 km. This was one of our longer days but it could be broken into 2 shorter legs at Dorchester. It took us around 7.5 hrs to walk, including a coffee at Benson Lock, picnic break and drink at Clifton Hampden.
Meadows near Culham Thames Path National Trail
Day 6 – Where to stay
Abingdon – there’s a wide range of pubs, hotels and guest houses. For charming and affordable accommodation, we recommend S Howard B & B where we stayed, or for a centrally located alternative try Old Abbey House.
Wallingford also has a few places to stay, we recommend The Town Arms, which is centrally located.
In Wallingford The Town Arms has a comfortable rooms, a restaurant and pub garden
Wallingford Bridge Thames Path National Trail
Day 6 – Where to eat
Abingdon – there are many shops and supermarkets to buy picnic supplies.
Clifton Hampden – on the stretch between Abbingdon and Dorchester the only pub is The Barley Mow, and the post office here also stocks some basic food supplies.
Dorchester – the town has pubs and restaurants but is a bit of a walk away from the Thames Path.
Wallingford – close to Wallingford, you could stop for coffee or lunch at the Waterfront Cafe at Benson Lock. Wallingford is a charming small town, with many shops and cafes.
Barley Mow at Clifton Hampden Thames Path National Trail
Day 6 – Transport for this stage
Abingdon – there is no station at Abingdon, the nearest being at Radley. From London change at Didcot Parkway, for the branch line to Radley, then take the No 35 bus.
Wallingford – there is no station at Wallingford, the nearest being at Cholsey. From London Paddington take the train to Cholsey, then take the No 136 bus to Wallingford. The No 33 bus runs between Abingdon and Wallingford, with a journey time of 1 hour.
Options by car – At Abingdon, there are several public car parks to choose from, to leave your car for the day. For this leg we left our car in the car park at Abingdon, took the No 33 bus to Wallingford, walking the Thames path back to Abingdon.
Heather at Wallingford – Thames Path National Trail
Day 7 – Wallingford – Goring – Pangbourne
This was one of my less favourite stages of the Thames path, as much of it ran through woodland or was out of sight of the river. However the section around Goring was more attractive with views of pretty Edwardian boathouses on the opposite bank.
Streatley Thames Path National Trail
Leaving Wallingford, the path was at first quite muddy around Watermead Nature Reserve and we passed some impressive boathouses, owned by Oxford Brookes University.
Near Wallingford Thames Path National Trail
We passed under the double arch railway bridge, constructed by celebrated engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel. While undoubtedly a feat of Victorian engineering, it had a rather damp and spooky atmosphere!
Brunel Railway Bridge Moulsford Thames Path National Trail
Around Moulsford the path runs briefly away from the river, before arriving at the Beetle and Wedge, a pleasant riverside inn, where we ordered a drink and sat outside overlooking the river. Soon after, look out for the Egyptian House, a modern mansion with colourful Egyptian motifs which felt quite out of keeping with the rural English setting.
Streatley Thames Path National Trail
Running alongside the river, the path now brings you past the Swan Inn at Streatley (its Coppa Club bar is a good coffee or lunch stop), on the opposite bank from the town of Goring. An alternative on the Goring side of the bridge, is the busy Pierreponts Cafe.
Goring was an ancient crossing place of the Thames and marks a change in landscape from the flatter Oxford plain upstream, to the steeper sided valley downstream.
Goring Lock Thames Path National Trail
Having crossed the river at Goring, the path now continues on the northern bank, past the attractive Goring lock, with its canal boat moorings.
Thames Path National Trail Pangbourne to Goring
After a short flat stretch beside the river, the path climbs and unusually runs on the side of a chalk cliff through Hartslock Wood, with glimpses of the Thames below through the trees.
Pangbourne to Goring – Thames Path National Trail
The final stretch into Pangbourne runs away from the river through Whitchurch, before bringing you back to the Victorian iron Whitchurch toll bridge (a small charge for cars but free for pedestrians).
Day 7 – Distance and timings
Wallingford to Pangbourne is aprox 11 miles / 17.6 km. This was a comfortable day’s walk but could be broken into 2 shorter legs at Goring. It took us around 6 hrs to walk, including a coffee at Goring and a picnic break at the Beetle and Wedge Riverside pub.
Day 7 – Where to stay
If staying in Wallingford, we recommend The Town Arms, which is centrally located.
In Wallingford, The Town Arms has comfortable rooms, a restaurant and pub garden.
In Pangbourne, we recommend the boutique style Elephant Hotel which is in the centre of town.
Day 7 – Where to eat
Both Wallingford and Pangbourne are small towns, with a range of shops and cafes.
On the section between Wallingford and Goring, the Beetle and Wedge is a friendly riverside pub, with outside and inside seating. We didn’t find anywhere to stop between Goring and Pangbourne.
Beetle and Wedge pub Thames Path National Trail
Goring and Streatley – the options closest to the river are the Pierreponts Cafe and the Coppa Club on the other side of the bridge at Streatley. Both of these serve coffees, snacks and lunches, although the Pierreponts Cafe is quite small. So if it seems busy head to the more spacious Coppa Club within The Swan Hotel instead. If you need picnic supplies, there are also shops in Goring.
Swan Hotel at Streatley Thames Path National Trail
Day 7 – Transport for this stage
Wallingford – there is no station, the nearest being at Cholsey. From London Paddington take the train to Cholsey, then the No 136 bus to Wallingford.
Pangbourne – there is a station, which is on the GWR route from Bristol Parkway to London Paddington, with direct connections to Reading and Maidenhead, both on the Thames Path.
Pangbourne Station Thames Path National Trail
Options by car – For this leg we left our car in the Cattlemarket car park at Wallingford, took the No 136 bus from Wallingford to Cholsey (11 mins), then the train from Cholsey to Pangbourne (20 mins). Then we walked on the Thames path from Pangbourne back to Wallingford.
Goring Lock Thames Path National Trail
Day 8 – Pangbourne – Reading – Henley
On leaving the small town of Pangbourne at the striking iron Whitchurch Bridge, the path skirts the river through Pangbourne Meadow, with a glimpse on the opposite bank of Hardwick House. This Tudor House was visited by Elizabeth I and is thought to be the model for ‘Toad Hall’ in Kenneth Grahame’s book The Wind in the Willows.
At Purley, the path leaves the river bank behind a Marina and returns to the river near Tilehurst Station. Now the route skirts the river through open fields and past the Rowing Club towards Caversham Bridge, which marks the entry into Reading.
Caversham Bridge – Thames Path
The stretch through Reading is surprisingly charming for such a busy town, with views of Fry’s island and Caversham Lock in the centre of the river. We enjoyed a coffee in the Thames Lido, a stylish reinvention of the old riverside Lido where you can watch the swimmers doing their lengths.
Thames Lido Reading
It’s worth making a short detour here onto Caversham Lock, to cross the weir for views of the river and the old ladies swimming club, now a community hydro-electric facility.
Caversham Lock Reading – Thames Path
The path follows the river through King’s Meadow, a community leisure space, passing through woodland near a large Tesco supermarket (toilets, cafe and picnic supplies). Beyond this, the area of Caversham Lakes and Marina can be seen beyond the opposite river bank, until you reach Sonning.
The old Saxon village has a bridge across the river, with a 17th century water mill (now a theatre) and a few places to eat. At Sonning the Thames Path crosses the road bridge and a further footbridge, to continue on the north bank of the Thames as far as Henley.
Reading Bridge – Thames Path
The riverside path meanders on towards Shiplake where there is a station and the path then continues along a lane behind the series of grand houses that face the river. One of the grand mansions that has been split into smaller residences has a narrow gauge railway that can be seen from the lane.
Returning to the river you’ll now walk through water meadows, until a long wooden horse bridge runs out into the river to Marsh Lock, before returning you to the bank again. The way is now a broad paved path that takes you past the River and Rowing Museum and into Henley itself.
Henley on Thames is known for its rowing regatta, which takes place in July and is a feature of the English society calendar.
Henley Thames Path National Trail
Day 8 – Distance and timings
Pangbourne to Henley is aprox 17 miles / 27 km, so you need to start early, for a longer day’s walk. It took us around 8.5 hrs to walk. You can also break this stage into two shorter stages: Pangbourne to Reading (7 miles / 11 km) and Reading to Henley (10 miles / 16 km).
Day 8 – Where to stay
Pangbourne: There is less choice of places to stay than Henley or Reading. We recommend The Elephant Hotel (boutique style) which is in the centre of town.
Henley: For budget options try The Catherine Wheel (traditional pub) or RIOSHOUSE (contemporary no-reception rooms). For more luxurious options, look at The Relais ( the former historic Red Lion Inn) or Hotel du Vin. All of these are well located in the centre of Henley, close to the many shops and restaurants.
RIOSHOUSEis a contemporary no-reception style hotel well situated in Henley on Thames
Reading: This busy town is a less charming place to stay than Pangbourne or Henley. If you decide to break the stage here, we recommend The Market House (budget boutique style) or Ibis Reading Centre (contemporary budget hotel), both of which are close to the station and 10 mins walk from the Thames Path.
Tilehurst – Thames Path
Day 8 – Where to eat
Pangbourne – several shops for picnic supplies and a good choice of bars, restaurants and pub options around the town centre.
Purley – Between Pangbourne and Reading, you’ll pass the Mad Duck Cafe at Purley.
Reading – near the bridge is the stylish Thames Lido for coffees and lunch, with picnic benches overlooking the river nearby.
Near Reading – Soon after leaving Reading, the path runs close to a large Tescos where you can buy picnic supplies or eat in their cafe.
Sonning – the next pub on the Reading to Henley stretch is The Bull Inn at Sonning.
Henley – the town has numerous excellent pubs and restaurants, as well as shops to pick up picnic supplies, if you are continuing the walk.
Tilehurst – Thames Path
Day 8 – Transport for this stage
Pangbourne – there is a station which is on the GWR route from Bristol Parkway to London Paddington, with direct connections to Reading and Maidenhead, both on the Thames Path.
Reading – there is a station, which is a busy junction on the main London to Bristol line.
Henley – there is a station, which connects via Twyford, where you can change to the GWR Bristol to London line or the Elizabeth Line.
More articles about the Thames Path National Trail
I’ll be publishing more articles in this Thames Path series very soon. In the meantime, if you have questions about our walk on the Thames Path National Trail, feel free to email me at heather(at)heatheronhertravels(dot)com
Coming Soon – Tips for hiking the Thames Path National Trail
Resources for hiking the Thames Path National Trail
Train bookings – to get you to the start and end of this section of the walk, we recommend Trainline for easy rail bookings.
Book accommodation: to book hotels online and conveniently have all your bookings in once place, we used Booking.com but if you prefer you could also use Expedia.
Guidebook – we used and recommend the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide – this is the one we used and we liked the easy to follow maps and the fact that it’s just as easy to follow for walking in either direction.
When planning a family trip to Turkey, destinations like Istanbul or Cappadocia usually steal the spotlight. But if you’re looking for a unique, kid-friendly city full of culture, fun activities, and wide-open spaces, Ankara—Turkey’s capital—deserves a spot on your itinerary.
In just two days, Ankara offers a perfect blend of history, play, learning, and relaxation for families traveling with children. This complete 2-day itinerary will help you make the most of your time and create unforgettable family memories in Ankara, a city which, by the way, is HUGE!
Day 1: Discovering History and Exploring Ankara’s Outdoor Gems
Morning at Anıtkabir: A National Monument That Fascinates Kids
Start your Ankara adventure at Anıtkabir, the grand mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey. While a mausoleum might not sound child-friendly at first, Anıtkabir is surprisingly engaging for kids. The massive open spaces allow children to roam freely, while the ceremonial guard changing often grabs their attention with its precise, synchronized movements.
Inside the museum, interactive displays and multimedia exhibits tell the story of Atatürk’s life and the formation of modern Turkey in a way that even younger visitors can appreciate. After the tour, stroll through Peace Park—a beautifully landscaped area surrounding the monument where kids can run and parents can relax.
Midday Stroll and Snack on Tunalı Hilmi Street
After exploring Anıtkabir, head over to Tunalı Hilmi Street, one of Ankara’s most vibrant avenues. Here, you’ll find cozy cafes and bakeries where your family can take a well-deserved snack break. Grab some freshly baked simit (a sesame-crusted Turkish bagel), fresh fruit juices, or sweet Turkish pastries that children will love.
The atmosphere is lively, safe, and very family-friendly, with plenty of small parks nearby where kids can play.
Visit Kocatepe Mosque: Awe-Inspiring Architecture
Next, take a short ride to Kocatepe Mosque, Ankara’s largest and most iconic mosque. Even if your children aren’t usually interested in architecture, the mosque’s towering minarets, massive domes, and intricate designs will likely leave them wide-eyed. The large courtyard allows for relaxed exploration, and the peaceful ambiance offers a perfect moment of quiet after the busy morning.
Afternoon of Art and Play
CerModern: Modern Art That Engages Young Minds
In the afternoon, shift gears and visit CerModern, Ankara’s leading contemporary art center. Unlike many art galleries, CerModern often features interactive exhibits that engage children and encourage creativity. Kids can walk through colorful installations, participate in workshops, or simply enjoy the playful atmosphere.
Parents will appreciate the fresh, modern art while children discover that museums can be fun and hands-on.
Evening at Gençlik Park: Family Fun in the Heart of Ankara
Finish your first day at Gençlik Park, an expansive urban park packed with kid-friendly activities. Multiple playgrounds, mini amusement rides, and green spaces create a relaxed environment where kids can let loose. Enjoy a family ride on the mini train or paddle boats, grab some cotton candy, and watch the sunset over the park’s peaceful lake.
For dinner, nearby neighborhoods like Kızılay or Kavaklidere offer countless family-friendly Turkish restaurants serving pide, köfte, and kebabs—dishes almost every child enjoys.
Day 2: Nature, Science, and Fairy Tales
Morning at Atatürk Forest Farm and Zoo
Begin your second day at the Atatürk Forest Farm and Zoo (Atatürk Orman Çiftliği). This large complex offers something for every age: farm animals for younger kids, exotic animals at the small zoo, and an aquarium that captivates with colorful marine life.
Parents can explore the replica of Atatürk’s childhood home while kids enjoy watching cows, goats, and monkeys. Don’t forget to visit the organic market to grab fresh local honey, cheese, or produce for a tasty snack.
The wide-open spaces, tree-lined paths, and relaxed atmosphere make it perfect for a family outing.
Midday Break at Armada Shopping Mall
By lunchtime, head to Armada Shopping Mall for a comfortable break. Turkish shopping centers are very family-friendly and usually feature indoor playgrounds or game centers where kids can recharge while parents enjoy coffee or a proper meal.
Armada offers a wide range of dining options—from traditional Turkish fare to international choices—making it easy to find something for every family member.
Afternoon at Harikalar Diyarı: Wonderland for Kids
The highlight of your second day will surely be Harikalar Diyarı (Wonderland Park), one of the largest theme parks in Ankara. Giant fairy tale statues like Snow White, Pinocchio, and the Seven Dwarfs greet visitors throughout the park, creating a magical atmosphere for children.
With large playgrounds, wide walking paths, boat rentals, mini golf, and endless green spaces, this park offers hours of entertainment for kids of all ages. Parents can relax under shady trees while kids explore the themed zones, climb, ride, and play freely.
If you packed a picnic, this is the perfect place to spread out a blanket and enjoy a relaxing outdoor meal together.
End with Science at Feza Gürsey Science Center
Before wrapping up your Ankara trip, make one final stop at the Feza Gürsey Science Center, located close to Wonderland Park. This interactive science museum allows kids to get hands-on with fun scientific experiments and educational exhibits. From physics to optical illusions, children of all ages will enjoy learning while playing.
If you’re lucky, you may catch one of the science shows, where experiments are demonstrated live in a way that captures both children’s and adults’ imaginations.
Family Travel Tips for Ankara
Best times to visit: Spring and autumn offer pleasant weather for outdoor activities.
Getting around: Taxis, metro, and buses are efficient, but renting a car can be more convenient with kids. We did not rent one though.
Where to stay: Central areas like Çankaya, Kızılay, and Kavaklidere offer excellent family hotels.
Where to Stay in Ankara with Kids
Hilton Garden Inn: Comfortable, central, and good value for families.
Ankara: A Family-Friendly Destination Full of Surprises
Ankara might not be the first city that comes to mind for a family trip, but after two full days of fun, learning, and exploration, you’ll realize it’s a hidden gem. With its balance of culture, education, wide-open parks, and child-friendly attractions, Ankara offers an unforgettable experience for families visiting Turkey.
So pack your bags, grab the kids, and get ready for a surprisingly fun family adventure in Turkey’s capital city!
The Spanish city of Malaga is often overlooked, as travellers rush through its airport on their way to the beaches of the Costa del Sol. Yet there are so many fun things to do in Malaga, with its sandy Malagueta beach, charming historic centre, Moorish palace and Roman theatre, world class museums and plenty of delicious food.
Whether you’re visiting for the day or staying a little longer, our Malaga travel guide covers the top things to see and other essentials for a fun visit. With so much packed into a small area, this city makes a perfect short break destination.
Picasso statue Malaga Spain
This article may contain affiliate links that provide commission on purchases you make at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
10 Top things to do in Malaga
If you are short of time in Malaga, here are our top things to see and do.
Historic Centre – wander around the pedestrianised streets of the old centre, with its attractive and well restored buildings.
Enjoy eating al fresco – the weather is mild enough to sit out year round in the many bars and restaurants, feasting on tapas and seafood or just sipping a coffee.
Wander along the port – past the boulevard of Muelle Uno with its shops and restaurants, as far as the landmark Farola de Malaga lighthouse.
Chill out on Malagueta Beach – swim, relax on the sand and eat seafood in one of the many Chiringuitos or beach bars.
Malagueta beach Malaga Spain
Discover the Picasso connection – visit the Picasso Museum housing his artworks, take a selfie with his statue and visit the small museum of his birthplace.
Explore the Alcazaba – a Moorish Palace set on the hill above the town, then climb up to the Gibralfaro fortress.
Visit Malaga Cathedral in the heart of the old town – the roofop tour (if open) is a highlight.
Malaga Cathedral Spain
Enjoy the many museums and galleries – there are numerous art galleries and museums, often housed in stunning palacios – our favourites are the Automobile and Fashion museum and the Carmen Thyssen Gallery.
Caminito del Rey – if you make one day trip from Malaga, it should be to the Caminito del Rey, a walkway that clings to the side of sheer cliff above the river.
Attractions: Check availability for the Alcazaba and Picasso Museum, as tickets may get booked up at busy times.
Tours: Book this 2 hour city walking tour, if you’d like to get your bearings on the major Malaga sites.
Malaga port Spain
Now let’s take a look around the city of Malaga.
Malaga’s Historic Old Town
Much of central Malaga is pedestrianised, giving you even more chance to enjoy the historic centre with its narrow streets, shady squares and charming older buildings. Malaga’s main sites are concentrated in this very walkable old town area, so it’s the obvious place to start your visit to the city.
Old Town Malaga Spain
One of the main squares is Plaza de la Constitucion, with its elegant marble fountain and pretty surrounding buildings. From here, the wide boulevard of Calle Larios runs towards the port and is a great place for shopping, since many of the upscale brands are located here.
For a more local feel, wander around the narrow streets around Museuo Carmen Thyssen to find coffee shops and smaller boutiques. As you head towards Malaga Cathedral, the streets become busier, as this is the tourist heart of Malaga, nevertheless there are numerous pleasant restaurants and bars.
Old Town Malaga Spain
Close to the cathedral is the Roman Theatre and Picasso Museum, and many of the beautiful Palacios have been converted for use as hotels and museums.
This 2 hour city walking tour is a good way to get your bearings in the historic centre and see some of the main sites.
While Malaga’s Historic Centre can be packed in summer, it’s just as magical (and less crowded) in Spring and Autumn, when Malaga’s sunny climate allows for al fresco dining. At Christmas the city has a wonderfully festive feel, with light shows on Calle Larios and projections on the walls of the Cathedral.
Stay at the Palacio Solecio – a small luxury hotel in the heart of Malaga’s historic centre
Muelle Uno and the Port
An essential part of the Malaga experience, is to stroll along the shaded boulevard that runs between the modern port and the Centre Pompidou. Here you’ll find plenty of terrace bars and rows of souvenir stalls, with a view of the large harbour.
It’s worth a stop at the coloured glass cube of the Centre Pompidou, to see its collection of modern art. Afterwards browse in the nearby street market for holiday fashions and souvenirs.
Muelle Uno Malaga Spain
Turn the corner to continue past Muelle Uno, with its tourist oriented shops and cafes, designed to please the cruise passengers who dock near here. After walking under the palm trees, where the swanky yachts moor up, you’ll reach La Farola Lighthouse, one of Malaga’s landmarks.
Muelle Uno Malaga Spain
From here, cross over onto Malaga’s main beach where you can stop for refreshments in one of the Chiringuito beach bars, and watch the city at play.
Malagueta Beach
Malaga’s main city beach of La Malagueta offers a broad stretch of sand, backed by grassy areas and palm trees. The promenade that runs behind the beach is a favourite place to stroll, cycle or roller-skate, since this path stretches the length of the beach and beyond.
La Malagueta beach, Malaga, Spain
There are a number of Chiringuito beach bars along the beach, where you can buy drinks and order seafood with the sand between your toes. Look out for their traditional charcoal grills, where fresh sardines are grilled on skewers or ‘Espetos’, putting out an appetising aroma.
Sardines on Malaga beach Spain
As a Blue Flag beach, the water is clean, shallow and normally calm here, for easy swimming. La Malagueta is well provided with facilities, such as sunbeds, toilets, showers, childrens’ play areas and summer activities.
Alcazaba Moorish Palace
Visit the Alcazaba, the beautiful Moorish palace on the hill, with fountains and courtyard gardens. Built in the 11th century by the Arab rulers of Malaga at the time, the Alcazaba was designed both for defence, and as the residence of Malaga’s governor.
Walk up the hill, through a series of protective gateways with high walls and watch towers to reach the inner courtyards and formal gardens. The small courtyards of the palace, with their ornamental pools, tiled decoration and shady porticos, were designed to stay cool during Malaga’s hot summers.
While smaller than the Moorish palaces of Seville and Grenada, the Alcazaba of Malaga is a beautiful historic monument that has been well restored, and well worth a visit.
Alcazaba palace Malaga Spain
The entrance and ticket office are just above the Roman Theatre and the Alcazaba is open daily. You can also buy a combined ticket, together with the Gibralfaro Castle that sits a little higher up the hill.
The Gibralfaro castle is set on the hill immediately above the Alcazaba, and can be entered with a joint ticket.
It is best reached along a paved path leading steeply up from the Jardines de Pedro Luis Alonso, which are filled with bitter orange trees in fruit around Christmas. As you walk up the hill, there are some lovely views over the port, bullring and beach towards the sea.
Views of Malaga Spain
The castle was built in the 14th century as a garrison, and its strategic position at the top of the hill allowed it to protect the Alcazaba below. One of the main features of the castle are the thick defensive walls. You can walk along the top of the Bastion, to get wonderful views of Malaga town and the surrounding area. There’s also a small museum and a cafe/restaurant within the walls.
Gibralfaro castle Malaga Spain
For those that might find the walk up from the town a little steep, it is possible to access the castle by taxi or the No 35 bus that stops outside the entrance.
Tip: If visiting on a hot day, take your time on the walk up the hill and be sure to take some water.
Gibralfaro castle Malaga Spain
Roman Theatre
On the edge of the historic centre, the remains of the Roman Theatre date back to the first century BC, with a small museum to explain about its history. The theatre is set into the hillside and was discovered under another building in the 1950s, and gradually renovated in the 1960s.
Roman Theatre Malaga Spain
Well preserved Roman remains show a tiered seating area, orchestra and stage, which can easily be viewed from the plaza. To learn more, visit the small interpretation centre (free) and then walk through the site for a closer look, or enter past the Alcazaba ticket office, for a view looking down on the archaeological site from above.
Malaga Cathedral
Malaga Cathedral sits at the heart of the historic centre, and can be seen from almost every spot in the city. Dedicated to Our Lady of the Incarnation, the cathedral is one of the city’s most popular visitor attractions. It was built in the 16th century by the ‘Catholic Monarchs’, Ferdinand and Isabella on the site of a former mosque, after they reconquered Malaga.
Malaga Cathedral Spain
As you approach, you may notice that the cathedral has only one bell tower. The other was left unfinished due to lack of funds, giving it the local name of La Manquita or the one armed lady. There is a lot to see in the cathedral’s interior, with side chapels, stained glass windows, intricately carved choir stalls and a museum housing paintings and sculptures.
One of the highlights is a tour of the rooftop, with walkways that allow you to better understand the construction of the building. However, these tours are currently suspended due to roof renovation works.
Malaga Cathedral Spain
On our visit in December, we enjoyed visiting the famous Belenes or Nativity Scene in the cathedral, as well as watching the free light and music show that is projected against the tower of the cathedral every evening. Read about this and all the other things to do in Malaga at Christmas.
There is a fee to visit (unless you are attending morning mass) and an audioguide is included in the ticket price of €10.
Pedro Luis Alfonso Gardens
While the nearby Parque de Malaga offers a shady, green space close to the port, the Pedro Luis Alfonso Garden on the other side of the road is a smaller formal gardens offering a quiet space to relax.
Pedro Luis Alfonso Gardens Malaga Spain
The design is reminiscent of the Moorish gardens of the region, with geometric parterres, hedges and pools, planted with groves of shady orange trees. In between the hedges are some colourful floral plantings, and we enjoyed the fragrance of bitter orange fruit on the trees, when we visited in December.
Atarazanas Market
In the centre of Malaga, the covered Atarazanas Market in the centre of Malaga is a feast for the eyes. Colourful displays of fruit, meat and fish give you a sense for what’s fresh and in season.
The current market building dates back to the 19th century and is known for its attractive stained glass windows, depicting moments from Malaga’s history.
Atarazanas Market Malaga Spain
The market is also a good place if you want to shop for some Spanish foodie souvenirs at the deli or charcuterie counters. Look out for finely sliced jamon, which is sold in sealed packets, a staple of every Andalusian restaurant to nibble with a drink.
Atarazanas Market Malaga Spain
At the end of the market and just outside are stalls, bars and restaurants selling fried fish and other seafood dishes. This is a good place to stop for a snack or lunch, knowing that the produce will be fresh from the market.
For a different perspective, wander around the Soho neighbourhood, which is close to the port. This area has been through a regeneration, and is now considered one of the most trendy areas of the city, with numerous bars and restaurants.
Street art in Malaga Spain
Known as the Barrio de las Artes (Neighbourhood of the Arts), Soho is a mecca for lovers of street art, with murals and smaller pieces from big names on many of the buildings.
The open air art gallery has QR codes by many of the pieces to inform you about the artists. For a downloadable street art map and more information about the project, visit the MAUS website (Malaga Arte Urbano Soho).
Street art in Soho Malaga Spain
Due to its proximity to the bus and train stations, historic centre and port area, Soho is also a well located place to stay, with boutique hotels and rental apartments. We recommend Room Mate Collection Valeria or Soho Boutique Colón.
Picasso Museum
The Picasso Museum is one of Malaga’s most popular visitor attractions, housed in a beautiful 16th century Palacio Buenavista. Over 200 works by Pablo Picasso are on display, a permanent collection that spans his whole artistic career and represents the breadth of media in which he worked.
The museum also hosts changing exhibitions of other artists that have some connection to Picasso. At times the Picasso Museum can have long queues to buy tickets, so you may want to buy your tickets in advance here.
Picasso was born in Malaga, and you can also discover more about his life at the Casa Natal Picasso museum, located nearby in the house where he was born.
Picasso Museum Malaga Spain
More Art Galleries in Malaga
Carmen Thyssen Museum
A beautiful art museum set in a 16th century palace, with art from the old masters to impressionists and early 20th century Spanish artists. The museum shop is a good place for gifts. Check the website for more information.
Carmen Thyssen Museum Malaga Spain
Pompidou Centre
This outpost of the Pompidou Centre in Paris is topped by a colourful transparent cube El Cubo, in the port area by Muelle Uno. It houses a collection of modern and contemporary artworks, with permanent collections and changing exhibitions. Check the website for more information.
Pompidou Centre Malaga Spain
CAC Malaga
The Centro de Arte Contemporáneo de Málaga (CAC Malaga) is an art museum located close to the river and port, housing a collection of Spanish and international contemporary artists. CAC Malaga is currently closed for renovation, planned to reopen in 2026.
CAC Malaga Spain
Our favourite museums in Malaga
Malaga Museum
Malaga museum is set in the 18th century Palacio de la Aduana that was formerly Malaga’s Customs House. The port once extended in front of the building, but now, with the reclamation of land where Parque de Malaga stands, it is set some way back from the sea.
Malaga Museum, Malaga Spain
This art and history museum offers insights in Malaga’s past, with artworks by notable Spanish and Malaga artists, as well as archaeological collections from the region.
The charming 17th century mansions houses a collection of glass and ceramics from across the centuries. The museum is located on the northern edge of the historic centre. All visits are part of a guided tour, normally taking place on the hour, but there’s no need to book in advance.
The museum is in an old tobacco factory, La Tabacalera, and houses nearly 100 classic cars that were part of a private collection. Each car is paired with couture fashions from leading international designers since the 1920s, showing how trends in fashion and car design went hand in hand.
Automobile and Fashion Museum Malaga Spain
This was one of our favourite museums in Malaga, since I love fashion and Guy loves cars, the perfect couple’s experience! The museum is a little way south of the historic centre, but can be easily reached in a short bus ride.
Malaga enjoys a sunny climate all year round, and even in winter it’s often mild enough to sit outside on a sheltered restaurant terrace. Eating out is also affordable relative to other parts of Europe, so it’s common to see extended families or groups of friends eating out together.
If you’re in a large group or at weekends, you may need to reserve a table in advance. Otherwise, if a restaurant appears busy you could just wait or have a drink at the bar until a table becomes available.
Al Fresco lunch in Malaga Spain
There are endless bars and restaurants in Malaga, so I’d recommend walking around the pedestrianised streets of the old town, to see what takes your fancy. The most touristy areas are around the Cathedral and Plaza de la Constitucion, so if you want a more local experience, you may need to look for restaurants that are a few blocks away from these.
While I hesitate to make recommendations, because there are so many good restaurants, here are a few where we ate or were recommended by our friends who are Malaga locals.
Russian Salad in Malaga Spain
Recommended restaurants in Malaga
El Cenachero Centro (Calle Compania 16) – busy and atmospheric seafood restaurant on three floors close to the Carmen Thyssen Museum.
Carmen Thyssen Museum Cafe (Calle Compania 10) – if you are looking for a quiet spot for lunch, this museum cafe serves a good value Menu del Dia at lunchtime.
O Mamma Mia (Plaza de las Flores 7) – a family run Italian pizza & pasta restaurant in a central but quiet square with outdoor terrace, a good bet if you need somewhere that’s family friendly.
L’Experience (Plaza Obispo 4 ) – While you are in prime tourist territory, there’s something magical about this tapas restaurant’s terrace overlooking the cathedral. There are plenty more nice looking restaurants in the streets around the Cathedral.
Seafood in Malaga Spain
If like me you are picky about your barista style coffee, head to Next Level Coffee (Calle San Juan 27) or Syra Coffee – takeaway only (Calle Martires 13).
Casa Mira (Calle Cister 8) – This Malaga institution serving ice cream, sweets and turon has several locations, but the one near the cathedral is especially nice and has a few tables outside for coffee or ice cream.
Turon ice cream at Casa Mira in Malaga Spain
For foodie souvenirs or picnic supplies, head to Atarazanas Market in the centre of Malaga or the food hall on the Lower Ground floor of El Corte Ingles.
There are numerous Chiringuito or beach restaurants serving seafood on Malagueta beach. We enjoyed lunch at Chiringuito Tropicana but there are several others, so take your pick of what looks busy and open.
Chiringuito on Malaga beach Spain
More things to do in Malaga
We’ve covered some of the top things to see in Malaga, including our favourite museums and art galleries. Here are a few more unusual things to do in Malaga, that are worth considering if you have more time.
Hammam Arab Baths
The Hammam Arab Baths is a great place for couples, a girl’s getaway, or on days when the weather isn’t being kind. Enjoy the modern Spa experience in a traditional Arab style Hammam, with hot and cold baths, steam rooms, massage and treatments. It’s tucked away in the historic centre, close to the Carmen Thyssen museum.
The beautiful La Concepcion botanical garden in Malaga covers 3.5 hectares of palms, water features and glasshouses, spread over the hillside overlooking Malaga. It’s particularly popular to visit around Christmas time, when there’s a festive light trail, Las Luces de la Concepcion.
The Botanical Garden is located a little outside the centre of Malaga, but there are good public transport options and shuttle buses to get there.
Light Trail at the Botanical Garden in Malaga Spain
Visit at Christmas lights
Christmas in Malaga is a special time to visit, when the city is buzzing with festive atmosphere. The pedestrianised streets of the historic centre are strung with sparkling Christmas lights and there are nightly free light shows, on Calle Larios and the Cathedral square.
The generally mild and sunny weather, wide range of shopping, fantastic restaurants and Belénes nativity scenes around the city, make this a great alternative to the chillier Christmas Market destinations.
If visiting Malaga for a short break, we recommend you stay in the Historic Centre or Soho neighbourhoods, close to all the main attractions. However there are many bars and restaurants in this area, so be sure to read the reviews to avoid places mentioning street noise.
A good budget option is to stay just across the river in the neighbourhoods of Marmoles, Alameda or Perchel Sur. These are an easy walk to the historic centre, yet well located for the bus and train stations. As these neighbourhoods are more residential there are many options for apartment stays, as well as some more budget hotels.
Old Town Malaga Spain
Hotels we recommend
Luxury – Palacio Solecio – a small luxury hotel in the heart of Malaga’s historic centre.
2 bedroom apartment – You Trip Malaga – this 2 bedroom apartment owned by our friend (where we stayed) is clean and modern, just a 10 minute walk from the historic centre.
Stay at the Palacio Solecio – a small luxury hotel in the heart of Malaga’s historic centre
YouTripMalaga is a clean, modern 2 bedroom apartment 10 minutes from the historic center
Getting to Malaga
By plane
Most international visitors to Malaga arrive at Malaga-Costa del Sol Airport, located 13km to the south-west of the city (25 mins by road).
From here, we recommend using the rail link (Line C1) from the airport to Maria Zambrano station, which takes around 15 mins. Alternatively, take the public bus Express Line 3 from outside Terminal 3, which takes around 25-45 mins depending on traffic, but may be more convenient as it has stops closer to the historic centre and port.
Gibralfaro castle Malaga Spain
By Train
If you have been travelling in Spain, there are good rail connections to Malaga from Madrid and other Spanish cities in the south, such as Seville, Grenada and Cordoba. Trains arrive to Malaga Maria Zambrano station, which is just outside the historic centre.
We normally use Trainline to work out train times and prices in Europe and you can use their app to book your tickets online.
If you want to visit Malaga as part of a wider trip by train around Europe, we recommend Byway Travel, who specialise in arranging no-fly holidays.
Malagueta beach Malaga Spain
By Bus
There’s a good network of inter-city buses in Spain, so if travelling around the country, you may find it convenient to arrive in Malaga by bus. There are many different bus companies, so we recommend checking the Malaga Bus Station website, to see which bus companies travel where, or alternatively use your favourite mapping tool to find the bus options.
Views over Malaga Spain
Getting around Malaga
Malaga has an excellent public transport system, and the historic centre is largely pedestrianised, so you don’t need to hire a car for use in the city. For public transport the options are shown below.
While most places in the historic centre are easily walkable, a bus is your best bet for longer journeys. The Metro and Suburban trains are useful for getting from the centre to the city suburbs.
By Metro
There are two lines, L1 and L2, which run from Atarazanas metro station (close to Atarazanas market and the port) and continue towards the west of the city. Both L1 and L2 run through El Perchal metro station, which is the Intercambiador (central station linking bus, metro and suburban trains). Check the metro map here.
Pompidou centre Malaga Spain
By Suburban train
The state owned train operator RENFE run the Cercanias (commuter) Malaga trains. There are two lines C1 and C2, both is which start at the central train station in Malaga, Maria Zambrano station. C1 runs south-west along the coast, stopping at the airport, and ends in Fuengirola. C2 runs west to Alora. Maria Zambrano station is also the Intercambiador, so you can connect here with metro trains and buses. Check the Cercanias / Suburban train map here.
By Bus
The bus service in Malaga is provided by the Empresa Municipal de Transportes (Municipal Bus Company). You can tap on and off the buses, using a debit card. Check their website for Lines and Schedules.
To find out the best transport options in real time when out sightseeing, I generally use the Citymapper app, which covers Malaga.
