نویسنده: AliBina

The final section of our hike on the Thames Path National Trail brought us into London and the end of our 15 day walk. Over these last three days, the trail took us through the leafy suburbs of Richmond and Kew, past the historic landmarks of central London, ending in the old industrial area of London’s Docklands at Woolwich.

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Days 13-15 – Kingston to Woolwich

I walked the Thames Path National Trail in stages with my sister, usually a couple of days at a time. While the whole trail takes 15 days if you walk it consecutively, in the end it took us around a year to complete.

As you’ll see from the photos, Day 13 of the walk was done in the sunny days of June, but we did not complete Days 14 and 15 until the somewhat more chilly days of December!

I’ve written about the trail in four separate articles, each covering 3-4 days of the Thames Path walk, which you could do in a long weekend.You’re reading the last of the four articles describing Days 13-15 on the London section of our walk.

If you haven’t already done so, you can read about the previous walks below:

This section of three day’s walking could easily be managed over a long weekend. Alternatively you could just pick one of the legs for a day’s walk. Our direction of travel was from the Thames source in Gloucestershire towards London, but you can walk any of these stages in either direction.

Essential planning for Days 13-15 – Kingston to Woolwich

If you are walking sections 13-15 of the Thames Trail over a 3 day period, here are the planning essentials.

Transport – as these walks are within London, there are numerous transport options by bus, underground or overground train to get to the start or end of each day’s walk. You can tap on and off all London transport using a debit card or an Oyster card. If arriving from outside London, we recommend Trainline for easy rail bookings.

Guidebook – buy the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide – this is the one we used and found it excellent for walking in either direction. While a guidebook is not essential, we enjoyed using this one as it added useful context to our walk.

Day 13 – Kingston to Putney

From Kingston bridge we noticed a much more built up riverside landscape than we had seen on earlier sections of the walk. Attractive 18th and 19th century riverfront houses were now backed with large apartment blocks and high rise buildings.

Kingston itself is a busy shopping town, coming as a bit of a shock after the previous tranquil stretches of river bank. But once you cross Kingston Bridge to the southern bank, the town’s bustle is left behind and you reach a greener part of the river.

At Teddington Lock, we crossed the iron bridge to the northern bank, for a refreshment stop at the Flying Cloud Cafe, before returning again to continue on the path.

The towpath is bordered by Ham Lands nature reserve which continues to the 17th century mansion of Ham House (National Trust). It’s worth a short detour from the river to admire the house’s decorative red brick frontage.

Day 13 – Approaching Richmond

Soon the river bends, bringing Richmond Hill into view, passing Petersham meadows and the boathouses on the path up to Richmond Bridge. On a sunny day, the riverside at Richmond is buzzing and it’s become rather a trendy spot (I know it well having grown up here!)

Things calm once you pass the railway bridge at Richmond weir and follow a surprisingly secluded and shady stretch past Old Deer Park and then Kew Gardens. On the opposite bank is a view of Syon House and the wharf at Isleworth, making a pretty scene backed by the 15th century church tower.

Day 13 – Kew Bridge

At Kew Bridge we took a brief break to watch the cricketers on Kew Green before continuing along a developed stretch of the river to Mortlake, famous in the past for its breweries. Just after Chiswick Bridge, we ordered a coffee at the White Hart in Mortlake, an excellent riverside pub with a terrace overlooking the river.

The iron spans of Barnes Railway bridge come into sight and the river curves back on itself, passing the Barnes wetland centre that was created from the old Barn Elms reservoir.

Hammersmith Bridge, with its imposing Victorian pillars and urban skyline in the background, is a sign that you have reached London proper.

Approaching Putney Bridge, look out for the row of boathouses, belonging to all the London schools who launch their rowing boats from this public slipway.

Day 13 – Distance and timings

Kingston to Putney is aprox 13 miles/20.9 km. Allow around 6 hours plus stopping time. On this stretch, you’ll pass the stately home of Ham House (National Trust) and Kew Gardens, both of which are well worth a visit.

If you want to visit either of these, you could break this day’s walk into two, with an overnight stay in Richmond or Kew. Richmond is also worth a look around, with its Terrace Gardens, scenic village green and views from Richmond Hill.

Day 13 – Where to stay

Day 13 – Where to eat

On this stretch of the river there are numerous places to stop to eat and drink.

Kingston – Stock up on picnic supplies at the Waitrose supermarket. On leaving Kingston Bridge there’s a small park cafe at Canbury Park and the busy Boater’s Inn by the river.

Teddington – Cross on a footbridge at Teddington Lock to reach the busy Angler’s Pub, smaller Tide End Cottage Pub, or colourful Flying Cloud Cafe.

Petersham – Approaching Richmond, the Petersham Nursery cafe is a delightful place to stop for a coffee or light lunch in their greenhouses.

Richmond – There’s Eileen’s small kiosk cafe in the Buccleuch Gardens and the Tide Tables Cafe with large seating area right under Richmond Bridge. For a riverside pub, stop at the White Cross or the smaller White Swan on Old Palace Lane.

Kew – At Kew Bridge head to Kew Green where there’s The Willow cafe and The Cricketer’s Pub.

Mortlake – there are several cafes and restaurants in Mortlake but we recommend the White Hart Pub overlooking the river.

Hammersmith – while there’s not much on the Barnes side of the river, you could cross Hammersmith bridge to the north side where there are a number of riverside pubs.

Putney – close to Putney Bridge by St Mary’s Church, are numerous pubs and cafes. There are supermarkets on Putney High Street.

Day 13 – Transport for this stage

For Kingston the nearest station to the river is at Hampton Wick, a 10 mins walk from Kingston Bridge. Alternatively Kingston station is in Kingston town centre. Both can be accessed from London Waterloo but require a change, so check the network map for South West Railway, to work out the train connections.

Alternative stations on this leg of the walk are at Richmond, Kew and Mortlake. On arrival in Putney, there are 2 separate stations for the Underground and Overground train networks. Local buses are also a good way to get around and we recommend the TFL Go app to plan bus and train routes in and around London.

Day 14 – Putney to Tower Bridge

At Putney Bridge the transition from the leafy suburbs to London life becomes ever more obvious. Staying on the south of the river through Wandsworth, the route passes through Wandsworth Park and Battersea Park, both well used by local families, joggers and dog walkers.

Between the two parks is a stretch lined by modern buildings. The only interesting landmark here is the pretty St Mary’s church with its classical proportions and spire.

Day 14 – Battersea Power Station

Just beyond Battersea Park is Battersea Power station, now converted into an upscale attraction for fashion shopping and dining. The riverside frontage has been attractively landscaped, with a Christmas ice rink in full swing when we were there.

We popped inside for a coffee and a quick look around the swanky shops, vowing to come back later for a day’s shopping when we had more time (and money!)

Just beyond the power station, at Vauxhall Bridge, the path briefly moves away from the river and follows the road, before rejoining by Lambeth Palace.

This beautiful Tudor brick building is the seat of the Archbishop of Canterbury and only open for pre-booked guided tours, although there is a garden museum in the church next to it.

Day 14 – The South Bank

From here, we skirted the wall covered with hearts that has been painted to remember those who died during the Covid pandemic.

On the opposite bank are the Houses of Parliament and Westminster. Very soon we were wading through tourists all trying to take the perfect London selfie, with Big Ben as their backdrop.

This section of the South Bank is a particularly attractive and busy one. There are numerous London landmarks such as the OXO Building, Tate Modern and Shakespeare’s Globe, any of which could demand a few hours to do them justice.

Day 14 – Southwark

Beyond Southwark Bridge, we passed the Golden Hinde replica Tudor sailing ship and the beautiful Southward Cathedral, where we ate our picnic on the bench in their courtyard.

Now the ultimate London landmarks of the Tower of London and Tower Bridge came into view with more crowds of tourists, which finally thinned out once we were past Tower Bridge.

By this point, we really felt that we’d seen the “Greatest Hits” of London, all in one easy day’s walk along the Thames, albeit sharing the experience with thousands of other London tourists!

Day 14 – Distance and timings

Putney to Tower Bridge is aprox 13.5 miles/21.7 km. It took us around 5.5 hours including stopping time, including a coffee at Battersea Power station and picnic breaks at the Festival Hall and Southwark cathedral.

Day 14 – Where to stay

Because the rail and bus links are so comprehensive, you could stay almost anywhere in London. Since this part of the walk passes so many popular landmarks, hotels closer to the river will generally be more expensive than those further away.

We recommend searching for hotels in London, and using the map to narrow down your search for the best locations and deals.

If you want to stay near Tower Bridge at the end of this day’s walk, The Tower Hotel is a good option

Day 14 – Where to eat

As this part of the Thames Path is close to some of London’s hottest tourist spots, anywhere near the river tends to be expensive. To find shops selling sandwiches and snacks at reasonable prices, you may need to move a little away from the river.

Putney – Try the Putney Pantry cafe at the church or any of the many places on Putney High Street and near the bridge.

Wandsworth – there’s a cluster of pubs and cafes close to the bridge.

Battersea – around the Battersea Power Station and inside the complex are numerous nice cafes and restaurants, as well as an M&S food hall for picnic supplies.

Vauxhall – around Vauxhall bridge are numerous pub and restaurant options.

Waterloo – the area around the London Eye is packed with tourists and expensive food stalls catering for them. For something quieter, retreat into the Royal Festival Hall cafe or make a short detour to Waterloo Station where there are numerous food shops.

Gabriel’s Wharf – between Waterloo and Blackfriars Bridges is an area of cafes and bars near the river.

Southwark – a pleasant courtyard cafe is to be found at Southwark Cathedral. Nearby is foodie heaven at Borough Market with numerous food stalls and restaurants.

Between London Bridge and Tower Bridge – Hay’s Galleria has a good selection of cafes and restaurants in an attractive covered courtyard.

Day 14 – Transport for this stage

There’s rarely a problem getting around in London, due to the extensive network of underground and overground trains, bus routes and the increasingly popular Uber Boat by Thames Clipper service. We recommend the TFL Go app to plan bus and train routes in and around London.

At Putney, there are 2 separate stations for the Underground and Overground train networks. Tower Bridge is close to Tower Hill station on the north side of the river, or London Bridge station on the south side.

There are a number of other underground and overground train stations close to the river on both banks. Both Putney and Tower Bridge are connected by the Uber Boat river service as well as by the underground train line.

Day 15 – Tower Bridge to Woolwich

Because the transport network is so good in London, we decided to tack a little bit on to the previous day’s walk, continuing past Tower Bridge to Canary Wharf. Having fought through the tourists around Tower bridge, we were amazed to find that on the Bermondsey side of the bridge, the crowds melted away.

Day 15 – The London Docklands

While the section of the Thames path through Bermondsey and Rotherhithe is not the prettiest, it does have an interesting industrial heritage. We passed numerous old warehouses, now converted into apartments, the names of each wharf telling us what goods were landed there.

This area of the London Docklands was heavily bombed in the war and the formerly thriving wharfs fell into decline by the 1960s. More recently the docklands has been redeveloped for apartments and offices, with the glass towers of Canary Wharf springing up in the 1980s.

At the Double Tree by Hilton, we walked through the hotel’s reception to find the ferry pier and made a short ferry hop across the Thames to the glittering financial centre of Canary Wharf.

It was from here we continued the following day, walking a short but unremarkable stretch through the Isle of Dogs on the north bank, until we crossed to the south bank again via the Greenwich foot tunnel.

Day 15 – Greenwich

Walking under the Thames was a surprisingly pleasant experience, with a lift or stairs to take you down, then a well lit, dry and relatively short walk to emerge in Greenwich by the Cutty Sark. The heritage attractions, especially the Royal Museums Greenwich deserve a full day here, to explore the Old Royal Naval College, Queen’s House, National Maritime Museum and Royal Observatory.

While we didn’t have time (and had seen much of it before) we did have a coffee in the pleasant surroundings of the Old Brewery, next to the visitor centre.

On leaving the Old Royal Naval College behind, we quickly felt the legacy of this area’s past industrialisation. Less of the smart warehouse conversions and more machinery plants and waste ground waiting to be developed.

Day 15 – The O2

On the North Greenwich peninsula, where the Thames loops back on itself, the dome of the O2 rises like a space age spider. Built in 2000 as the Millennium Dome, the O2 now houses a concert arena and shopping centre.

It was busy with shoppers when we stopped there, but we found a bench inside to have our picnic out of the rain. From here the IFS Cloud cable car runs across the river to the Excel conference centre, on a fine day (which it was not!) giving views over the Thames.

The Thames Barrier now came into sight, with a series of old wharfs to pass before we got there. This stunning piece of engineering was completed in 1982 and can be closed off when required to protect London from tidal surges and flooding.

We did not find any information centre or cafe open, but there’s a viewing bank on the far side, with a pleasant grassy picnic area.

Day 15 – The path ends at Woolwich

The Thames Barrier was originally the end of the Thames Path National Trail, but in order to connect it with coastal footpaths, it’s now been extended a further half an hour’s walk to Woolwich.

We duly walked a little further, with views of the Woolwich car ferry coming and going and reached the entrance to the Woolwich foot tunnel and the Royal Arsenal Heritage site beyond.

As the name suggests, Woolwich Arsenal was, from the 17th century, London’s main site for the manufacture of munitions. The old brick factory buildings have been nicely restored, but we didn’t have too much time to linger.

Before long a Thames Clipper boat arrived at the pier and we hopped on board for the journey back to Waterloo station.

Day 15 – London from the river

If I’m honest, this final stretch of the Thames Path from Tower Bridge to Woolwich, was not as attractive as the previous stretch through central London, not helped by the grey and drizzly December weather.

However, the return journey from the comfort of the river boat, past all those same London landmarks was a real highlight. The bustle and crowds of the river bank seemed to melt away in the open space and calm of the river.

In the past, the Thames was the main highway running through the city. So it was a great way to end our 15 day walk, seeing the historic sights of The Tower of London, Tower Bridge and Westminster from the river’s perspective.

Day 15 – Distance and timings

Tower Bridge to Woolwich is aprox 12 miles/19 km. It took us around 5.5 hours including stopping time, with a coffee at Greenwich and picnic stop at the O2.

Day 15 – Where to stay

Because the rail and bus links are so comprehensive, you could stay almost anywhere in London. We recommend searching for hotels in London, and using the map to narrow down your search for the best locations and deals.

There are not many accommodation options around Woolwich at the end of the walk, so we recommend staying at the Ibis Hotel in Greenwich instead, where there are plenty of shops and restaurants.

Alternatively book a more centrally located hotel like The Tower Hotel at Tower Bridge, that you can return to every night using public transport.

Day 15 – Where to eat

Closer to Tower Bridge, there are places to eat at every turn. But the nearer you get to Woolwich, the scarcer these become, although there’s a succession of historic riverside pubs.

Tower Bridge (south bank)- there are quite a few smart restaurants by the river, but for something less expensive wait until you reach Bermondsey.

Bermondsey to Rotherhithe – On this stretch you’ll find historic pubs like The Angel, The Mayflower and Salt Quay overlooking the river. There’s not much else until you reach the Doubletree by Hilton Hotel opposite Canary Wharf.

Canary Wharf – there are numerous cafes, shops and takeaway options around the station.

Greenwich – there are plenty of cafes around Greenwich market, but a nice place to stop is The Old Brewery, next to the Old Royal Naval College Visitor Centre. A nice pub stop in summer would be the Trafalgar Tavern overlooking the river.

North Greenwich / O2 – there are numerous cafe, food and shopping options in and around the O2 centre.

Woolwich – between the O2 and Woolwich is the Anchor and Hope riverside pub, but a nice final coffee stop is the Visitor’s Book Cafe in Woolwich Works, right by the Uber Boat Jetty at the end of the Thames Path Route.

Day 15 – Transport for this stage

Tower Bridge is close to Tower Hill station on the north side of the river, or London Bridge station on the south side. Woolwich is connected by the Elizabeth Line and DLR (Docklands Light Railway). Along the river there are a number of other train stations.

Tower Bridge and Woolwich are also connected by the Uber Boat by Thames Clipper river ferry service.

We recommend the TFL Go app to plan bus and train routes around London.

Read Next

Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Source to Oxford – Days 1-4

More articles about the Thames Path National Trail

Here are all the articles published about Thames Path National Trail.

Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Source to Oxford – Days 1-4

Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Oxford to Henley – Days 5-8

Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Henley to Kingston – Days 9-12

Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – Kingston to Woolwich – Days 13-15 (this article)

Coming Soon – Tips for hiking the Thames Path National Trail

Resources for hiking the Thames Path National Trail

Train bookings – to get you to the start and end of this section of the walk, we recommend Trainline for easy rail bookings.

Book accommodation: to book hotels online and conveniently have all your bookings in once place, we used Booking.com but if you prefer you could also use Expedia.

Guidebook – we used and recommend the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide – this is the one we used and we liked the easy to follow maps and the fact that it’s just as easy to follow for walking in either direction.

The Thames Path National Trail website is a useful source of information about the trail as a whole.

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This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com