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Exploring the Knoxville Art Scene In Depth
It’s no secret that Knoxville ranks high up on our list of must-visit destinations. Much of my family was born there, and I’m a proud graduate of University of Tennessee. But despite my extensive knowledge of East Tennessee’s largest city, the Knoxville arts scene is an ever-changing tapestry of color and innovation that keeps every trip fresh and exciting for even the most seasoned traveler.

If you’re planning a Knoxville weekend trip in the future, here’s everything you need to know about where to stay, eat, visit and get your art on.

Stay at Knoxville’s art hotel

Knoxville’s premier luxury hotel, the Tennessean, opened a few years back adjacent to World’s Fair Park. This hotel has long been a favorite of mine—it was my fourth stay here!—thanks to its well-appointed rooms and location just blocks off Market Square.

Check rates for the Tennessean Hotel here.

The 82 rooms have a distinct Tennessee design with carpeting meant to channel the flow of the Tennessee River and topographical maps hanging on the walls in all the rooms. Each of the floors are named after a river in Tennessee, and there’s even a special Pat Summitt Suite we got to tour on this Knoxville visit. A portion of proceeds from the booking of this suite are donated to the Women’s Basketball Hall of Fame, which we also visited on this trip.

If you know me, you know how much the late Lady Vols coach impacted my life, so seeing an entire guest suite dedicated to her memory was truly something special. I also love the Drawing Room restaurant, which serves breakfast, dinner and a unique-to-the-area tea service daily. Request a room that faces World’s Fair Park.

The floor-to-ceiling windows offer a unique perspective of Knoxville art with the Sunsphere, museum and World’s Fair Park murals all in view depending on your position in the hotel. Request a corner suite for the most epic views, though really you can’t go wrong with any of the Tennessean’s rooms, which are a luxuriously spacious 470 square feet in size at minimum.

If the Tennessean is not available, you’ve got several options in the downtown, including:
- The Oliver
- Cumberland House
- Hilton Knoxville
- Marriott Knoxville Downtown
The Maker Exchange

Within the hotel’s common area, which it shares with the adjoining Marriott Hotel, Maker Exchange debuted just last year and is a game-changer in terms of how spaces can incorporate experiential art. You can feel the masterful craftsmanship of Megan Lingerfelt and Curtis Glover in all corners of this hotel lobby and the art gallery display space that is branded as the Maker Exchange.

Local artist Robin Easter designed all the patterned murals that adorn the walls both inside and outside the hotel, and Lingerfelt and Glover painted them over a three-month period last year. They’re truly remarkable, and the paint job is such a high level of perfection, you may be fooled into thinking they’re wallpaper, but rest assured, this pair of highly sought-after muralists hand-painted every last line.

The oversized great room makes for an opulent and classy display venue for locally crafted paintings, textile and ceramics while providing the hotel with an additional point of interest. An expansive fireplace with seating area, an attached bar, and the Tavern restaurant that overlooks the World’s Fair Park make it hard to beat as a one-stop shop for an afternoon of leisure and artistic absorption.

There’s also original art by local makers hanging on the walls throughout the lobby level. See something you like? Everything is for sale. The art gallery, the Curio, which is open to the public and free to peruse, features rotating exhibitions like the final products from the students of Lingerfelt’s recent mural workshops.

The Tennessean’s restaurants and bars

Located on the second floor of the Tennessean, The Drawing Room has a speakeasy-style bar with dapper tuxedoed staff, classic cocktails and a French inspired selection of appetizers and dinner plates. If you’re looking for an elevated place to have a cocktail, this is your place—so long as you promise us you’ll try the signature smoked old fashioned.

An elegant option for breakfast, as well, the Drawing Room whips up all the classics of an American-style diner plus avocado toast, lox bagels and shrimp and grits for those of us that seek out an easy brunch menu.

Need a quick pick-me-up before a day of exploring Knoxville’s art scene? Perk Up at Maker Exchange features specialty coffee drinks made from local roastery Vienna Coffee Company and enjoy it in any of the pleasant vignettes strategically placed throughout the Tennessean’s lobby level.

New to the Tennessean’s menu of activities is the addition of e-bikes, which includes a Pedals and Prosecco e-Biking Experience. The first of its kind locally, the concierge offers fat tire e-bikes to guests for tooling around downtown Knoxville.

Sunsphere Park is also a perfect spot to have a picnic with some bubbly, so take a basket with you and set up shop along the water in World’s Fair Park.

Eat your way through Knoxville’s food scene

Any night out with friends will be served up with a little bit of flair and artistry. Seeking out food options in a college town of more than 40,000 students and countless alumni is always a challenge, not because of lack of options but so many delicious restaurants. Knoxville dishes out some of the finest examples of mindfully curated cuisine we’ve experienced in the South, and these places will give you a taste of that most ancient of craftsmanship: food.

Potchke

It seems like the only place my Knoxville friends go for breakfast or lunch anymore is Potchke, an elevated Jewish bakery with a flair for the cheeky comments, and I wanted to see what all the fuss was about. Potchke thrums with the energy of a well-made lunch consumed in a brightly lit room. Every dish on the menu has a vegan or gluten-free option, and there’s always an interesting variation of house-made seltzers or tonics to try as an accompaniment.

This restaurant is a must-stop for breakfast or brunch and just oozes freshness and spice.

Vida

Located on the ground floor of the thoughtfully remodeled Holsten Building, Vida is one of the hottest destinations for artistic dining and fancy drinks. With a Latin-influenced menu that anchors back to French cuisine, the options for food are a delightful mix of eclectic tapas plates.

Carrots, fennel and ricotta are a popular starter as are the corn croquettes and empanadas; crab cakes, scallops or the pork belly are all wise choices for sharable dishes. The restaurant is also centered around a bar that shakes out a healthy selection of alcohol-forward drinks so it’s also a good spot for a special date or occasion. Be sure and take a peek in the Vault, a speakeasy-like subterranean bar, downstairs before you go.

Kaizen

When we travel, Asian cuisine is always top of our list, and Knoxville restaurants feature several options, our latest favorite of which is Kaizen, an izakaya-inspired Japanese-style pub serving up tapas-style small plates like pork bao buns, tamari-glazes potatoes and hot-and-sour duck noodles. The restaurant also stocks a deep well of whiskey, both Japanese and American varieties.

Simpl.

Situated in South Knoxville (aka SoKno) along one of the most vibrant and ever-changing street art neighborhoods, Simpl. is sandwiched between a couple of breweries and along a popular bicycle route that skirts the Tennessee River. An airy interior with fairly limited seating, it’s best to either arrive early or make reservations for this seasonally driven and Mexican-inspired restaurant.

Sleepy weekend breakfast at this Sevier Avenue joint is popular, and we quickly learned why. The brunch burgers with tomato jam and a sunny egg are fan favorites as is the extensive breakfast cocktail menu.

Other Knoxville restaurants we love:
- J.C. Holdway
- KOYO
- A Dopo
- Sweet P’s BBQ
- Curious Dog
- Brother Wolf
- Osteria Stella
- The Kennedy
- Stock & Barrel
- Lilou Brasserie
- The French Market Creperie
Taste the art of brewing at these Knoxville breweries

One way Knoxville continues to up the ante is with its brewery scene, which is always booming and ever-growing. We’re constantly trying out new spots every time we visit Knoxville, and here are a few of our most recent favorites.

XUL

In the heart of the Fourth & Gill neighborhood just beyond the Old City, XUL is a classic indoor-outdoor space that smells like yeasty bread from the beer-brewing process and immediately sucked us in. With an IPA-, hazy- and sour-forward menu, their brand of fermented beverages are experimental and really, really good. Bonus: There are a significant number of gluten-free beers on tap, a rarity in the brewing world.

The vibe of the taproom—a former 1960’s car showroom—is low-key lounge and with a rotating cast of food trucks parked outside, it’s easy to make an afternoon of visit. Geezers Brewing is in the same development, and Crafty Bastard just a few blocks away.

Yee-Haw

We’ve been fans of this Johnson City-based brewery since it opened in 2015, and it’s been fun to watch it grow into new locations in Nashville and now Knoxville. The expansive indoor-outdoor space is outfitted with turfed areas, big screens for sporting events and game day viewing, booths inside and a Prince’s Hot Chicken Shack outpost for sustenance.

Pretentious Craft Co.

Another long-time favorite brewing company of ours, Pretentious epitomizes Knoxville’s art scene as being possibly the only place in the world where you can drink beer brewed on site from a glass hand-blown just next door, where you can also watch the process from start to finish.

Other Knoxville breweries we love:
- Printshop Beer Co.
- Crafty Bastard Brewery
- Schulz Brau Brewing Company
- Abridged Beer Co.
- Hi-Wire Brewing Taproom
- Alliance Brewing Company
- Last Days of Autumn Brewing
Beer not your vibe? Right in the middle of bustling Jackson Avenue, PostModern Spirits is a craft distillery focusing on spirits like gin that it weaves into its many bar offerings.

Also nearby, Tern Club offers a wide range of rum- and mezcal-forward drinks artfully served up in a very tiki bar-style atmosphere.

Explore Knoxville museums and architecture

Knoxville’s most iconic landmark, the Sunsphere—a 26-story tower with 24-karat-gold glass panes—was built for the 1982 World’s Fair and is undoubtedly the most recognizable building in the city if not the state. For $5, you can now take an elevator to the observation deck during normal business hours on Tuesday through Sunday and see Knoxville from a new perspective.

Spring and summer are fun seasons to visit Knoxville as there seems to be a festival every weekend. Late April always brings the Dogwood Arts Festival, which has been around since 1961, and completely overtakes World’s Fair Park with fine art vendors, live music, entertainment, children’s activities, and food and beverage offerings galore. Early June is our dog Ella’s favorite event, Bike Boat Brew & Bark, alongside the Tennessee River.

Directly across World’s Fair Park from the Tennessean and the Sunsphere, Knoxville Museum of Art offers free admission daily and access to a collection spanning more than 1500 objects. A diverse array of art—paper, paintings, mixed media works, sculpture—the art museum’s primary focus is on mid-19th century to the present. The works are from a mix of regional names and international contemporary artists.

Shop these Knoxville arts mainstays

The south end of Gay Street where it intersects Jackson Avenue is where you’ll find some of Knoxville’s boutiques and artist shops. New to the area last summer is Paris Woodhull Illustrations, the brick and mortar of one of our favorite Knoxville artists who not only paints block-long murals but also turns her own designs into very Instagrammable T-shirts, dish towels, stickers and much, much more.

A few doors down, Jacks of Knoxville is a plant shop, cafe and home goods store all rolled into one. Across the street, Addison’s is a bi-level bookstore specializing in rare and old books with more contemporary pre-owned literature in the basement.

Down in the Old City, Rala—which stands for “regional and local artisans”—has been a favorite spot of mine ever since it opened. Directly across from Dogwood Arts Gallery, the boutique stocks an incredibly well-curated collection of goods made by local artists, from graphic Tees to wall art, posters to jewelry. If wearable art is more your forte, Honeymouth makes dopamine-rich leather goods.

See Knoxville’s urban art culture up close

If you make your base at Market Square for the afternoon, you’ll be able to easily walk to the many Knoxville murals and see a variety of urban art while you’re at it.

Krutch Park, for example, boasts more than a dozen sculptures—including our favorite, a dog fixated on a ball—throughout its acre domain, as well as water features and a pair of women’s suffrage monuments.

No matter the time of year you’re visiting Knoxville, there is bound to be something going on within Market Square’s perimeter, whether free jazz in the summer or the uber-cool Chalk Walk Knoxville held each April. We caught the tail end of the chalk paintings just before the spring rain washed them away.

Not even a block away toward Gay Street, you’ll find yourself in Strong Alley, the entrance of which is a rotating seasonal mural by Megan Lingerfelt, a fun whimsical painting by Paris Woodhull, a handful of other urban art vignettes. At the other end is, of course, a Dolly Parton mural.

If you dig a grittier art scene, SoKno is where you’ll find much of Knoxville’s graffiti, especially if you detour from Sevier Avenue onto Island Home where the walls are fortified with urban art. Also in South Knoxville is Paris Woodhull’s “Victoria” mural on the side of Printshop Beer Co. I may be a tad bit biased—our nonprofit spearheaded this mural as part of our Walls for Women project—but I think it’s the best art and beer in the city!

Peruse the many Knoxville art galleries

The Knoxville arts would be nothing without its richly diverse community of artists, patrons, styles and cultural institutions. A great time to visit Knoxville is on First Friday when many of the shops and art galleries along Gay Street, Market Square and the Old City have extended hours, as well as live music and food vendors.

Located in a nationally historic building built in 1890 in Emory Place, Pivot Point Gallery is a two-story art gallery highlighting the work of local artists, regional artists and national artists. Personally, I loved this mix of style and background; it made for an incredibly eclectic body of work. Next door, Lilienthal Gallery brings avant-garde international exhibitions to the Maker City. While we were there, this upscale Knoxville gallery housed the stunning three-dimensional work of female Israeli artists.

Be sure and check out these Knoxville galleries, too:
- The Art Market
- The Emporium
- UT Downtown Gallery
- Arrowmont Gallery
- RED Gallery
- Dogwood Arts Gallery
Have you been to the Maker City? Were you just as impressed by the Knoxville art scene as we were?

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05/06/2025
A Weekend in Murray, Kentucky’s Charming College Town

I don’t know what I expected Murray to be like, but a lake community with a college campus at its center and a thriving art scene anchoring it all was not it. A weekend in Murray, Kentucky combined so many different elements of what I look for in a three-day getaway: the outdoors, the public art and … free-roaming bison? Read on to explore why we loved Murray and the Land Between the Lakes.

This project was a partnership with the Murray, KY Convention & Visitors Bureau. All opinions are our own.

Kentucky is widely known for horse racing and bourbon, but interestingly Murray’s big selling points don’t have much to do with either of those—that said, the local university’s mascot is a much-beloved thoroughbred. Racer One, as he’s called, runs a celebratory lap around the field every time the football team scores a touchdown.

Instead, Murray’s superpower as a destination is its access to the outdoors and the Land Between The Lakes National Recreation area, a massive 170,000-acre peninsula bookended by the Kentucky Lake and Lake Barkley, both created by TVA in the 1940s to boost our nation’s electrical supply and create new navigable waterways. Its position near the borders of five states—Kentucky, Tennessee, Arkansas, Indiana and Missouri—and central location to so many Southern cities make it a great weekend destination. It’s less than three hours by car from Memphis, less than two hours from Nashville and under an hour from Paducah.

Looking to take a Kentucky vacation soon? Here’s why you need to plan a weekend in Murray.

Day 1 in Murray, Kentucky

With the Kentucky town just a three-hour drive from our Tennessee home, we arrived mid-morning and were ready to kickstart our weekend in Murray with a bite to eat. As luck would have it, two of our closest friends, Devry and Danny, happen to be from Murray and were more than willing to come up for a weekend in their hometown to make sure we got the full experience.

Have lunch at Hop Hound Brew Pub

To find the pulse of a town, we usually start with the local brewery or gastropub. In Murray, that’s Hop Hound Brew Pub, housed in a building that dates back to 1929 and specializes in flatbreads, burgers, quesadillas stuffed with fillings and street tacos. The pub also has a full bar and craft beer from around the region on tap.

Walk around the Murray State campus

Just a mile from the popular Murray pub is the town’s university, which adds 10,000 students to the population during the school year. Murray State spans an interesting mix of Gothic and brutalist-style buildings; as low-key architecture geeks, we drove multiple loops around the campus marveling at the different styles like the Lovett Auditorium, which is one of the four original structures still standing from 1926 and whose steps host the All Campus Sing each spring.

One of the most visited Murray State sites is the Shoe Tree, which is exactly what it sounds like: a monument comprising the shoes of alumni. This tradition dates back to the 1960s when students who had found their “sole mates” (partner or spouse) during their time at Murray State started nailing up shoes to cement their love; many of the kicks note their owner’s wedding date, and some alums even return with baby shoes once they’ve had a child.

On the west side of the Murray State quad across from the Shoe Tree, you’ll find a statue of Rainey T. Wells, the founder and former president of the university. The legend among Murray State students goes that if you rub his diploma, you’ll pass your finals. If you want to see the historic buildings in Murray, you can take a lap around the campus, making sure to drive by Pogue Library and down the photo-worthy Olive Boulevard, as well as Main Street and 9th and 10th streets.

Eat dinner on the Murray State campus

When it’s time to eat again, Murray State has a couple restaurants walkable from campus like the Willow Bistro, with its Greek-influenced menu, which is open for lunch every weekday with extended hours for dinner on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. There’s also Stephano’s Trattoria, a fine-dining Italian restaurant with pastas, sharable plates, and filling entrees like ribeye and grouper. After dinner, walk next door for a cocktail at Tap 216, an iconic Murray neighborhood bar that has trivia every Tuesday and karaoke on Thursdays.

Have dessert at the famed Murray Dairy Queen

Before I’d ever visited Murray, I knew of it’s Dairy Queen. It’s not just a regular Dairy Queen, but one steeped in nostalgia for many of its residents who have been going here every summer since it opened in 1949. Today, it’s only open from March through October, and the tradition still holds: Carhops come and take your order from your parking space.

Day 2 in Murray, Kentucky

My favorite thing to do in any new town is find the local coffee shop and enjoy an iced latte among the regulars. And Shaffer Coffee Co. is the coffee shop in Murray. Even on a Saturday morning in the heat of summer, the place was humming with a mix of students and those like us just passing through. We met up with Danny and Devry for cinnamon rolls and coffee before moseying downtown to truly start our day.

Morning at the Downtown Farmers Market

On Saturday mornings in Murray, the Downtown Farmers Market is where all the action happens. This market pulls farmers and vendors from a three-hour radius every weekend from May through October, and the offerings are legit. Pickles, honey, meats, cheeses, heirloom tomatoes, and other farm-fresh produce mingle with the goods from makers like cutting boards, jewelry and pottery. Some weeks feature a band or yoga for all, and the market even has a Kids’ Club where the little ones get their own market money to spend.

Art class at Murray Art Guild

After the farmers market, we were in for a real treat: a clay class at Murray Art Guild. This nonprofit organization has been holding court in Murray for more than 55 years and is in a semi-temporary space on the courthouse square as their permanent dream facility gets built out. But despite having to downsize the studio in the meantime, it still brims with the creations by painters, potters, jewelers, fiber artists and other makers who sell their wares in the front store portion of the studio.

The back is reserved for the actual making, with looms and pottery implements. We were lucky enough to get in on an Empty Bowl class where we sculpted bowls out of clay then stamped them to be sold at the annual Fall Empty Bowls fundraiser. As part of the national Empty Bowls Project designed to combat hunger, the guild generously facilitates this bowl-making through group activities throughout the spring and summer in preparation to be given away with soup at the fall fundraiser.

The guild hosts more than just bowl-making, though. Classes and workshops include figure-drawing, watercolor, weaving, pet portraits, art journaling and plenty of messy activities for kids.

Lunch at Dumplin’s of Murray

With a menu jam packed with sandwiches, salads, burgers and vegan options, Dumplin’s of Murray is a long-time staple of the community that also dishes out a multitude of desserts and, of course, dumplings. This restaurant is also a great option for brunch, as it serves up mimosas, beer and mixed drinks every day but Sunday when it’s closed entirely. There are some cute boutiques like The Place in the same retail development for shopping after you’re done.

Shopping and art in downtown Murray

After lunch, it’s back to the square for more art and shopping. Downtown Murray has a colorful art alley and more than a half-dozen murals scattered throughout the streets flanking the courthouse square; much of the original art was created by Kentucky artist Elias Reynolds. Park on the square, then explore its arteries by foot; you’ll find plenty of hidden art, as well as local boutiques and shops worth popping into.

Without a doubt, my favorite discovery in Murray was the adorable independent bookstore Bolin Books, which sells a mix of used books and new releases. Whitney and Wesley Bolin opened downtown Murray’s independent bookstore in 2020 following the death of Wesley’s father, James Duane Bolin, an author, historian and educator at the local university. It had always been his dream to own a bowtie and books business, and after he passed, the husband-wife team moved forward with their plans of opening a bookstore.

Teeming with books across genres, including a well-stocked children’s room in the back, Bolin is one of those places you simply can’t leave empty-handed. The Bolins completely transformed this downtown historic building into a multi-room bookstore, laid out by genre, with plans to expand into the upstairs space eventually. As an avid reader, I was blown away by how comprehensive the book offerings are and wish every town were so lucky to have a shop full of heart like this one.

Dinner at Jasmine Thai Cuisine & Sushi Bar

Living in rural Tennessee, we miss having an abundance of Asian fusion cuisine at our disposal, so if there’s a good Thai and sushi restaurant in a town we’re visiting, 10 times out of 10 we are dining there. Jasmine serves up a novel-length menu of Japanese food and Thai favorites like fried rice, sushi rolls, stir fry platters and hibachi-cooked steaks. The cocktails, too, were on point with the ginger gin fizz my favorite.

A stroll through Doran Arboretum

Located on the 40-acre Pullen Farm, Doran Arboretum is an educational display garden run by Murray State University that is open to the public for free daily until 7pm, a great spot for a post-dinner walk if you’re dining on the earlier side. It was truly one of my favorite places in Murray with its butterfly gardens, walking paths and 0.8-mile track. Traveling with kids who need to burn off energy? Take them to the arboretum. Simply in need of a nature break? Go to the arboretum. It’s a magical little oasis in the heart of an oft-bustling college town.

Day 3 in Murray, Kentucky

Your final day of your weekend in Murray is dedicated to the outdoors, weather permitting. Many restaurants and coffee shops in Murray are closed on Sundays, but Murray Donuts is open and the perfect place to grab a maple bacon donut and a coffee and head east into the wilderness. Don’t like donuts? First, you’re crazy, and second, Murray Donuts also has pastries, breakfast sandwiches and more.

Spend the day on Kentucky Lake

Murray’s outdoors scene is unmatched: It’s the largest city along Kentucky Lake, which has over 2,000 miles of shoreline alone, but also connects to the Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area, a veritable wonderland of hiking, hunting, horseback riding and off-road riding opportunities. This waterway links to the Gulf of Mexico along the Great Loop, a series of interconnected rivers, dams, locks and lakes that allow boaters to explore vast portions of the southeastern United States, many of which are protected wetlands and watersheds.

Devry and Danny were kind enough to invite us out on a boat with their friends Frank and Debbie, and we had a glorious afternoon exploring all the nooks and crannies of Kentucky Lake, including the Rock Quarry, the party cove with rocks for jumping if you’re brave enough to do so. Many of the marinas like Kentucky Dam Marina rent out pontoon, fishing and ski boats, as well as paddleboards and kayaks.

If you’re the type who likes to travel with your horses, the Wranglers Camp has more than 200 sites equipped for large trailers and RVs, many with electrical hookups. The 100 miles of pristine horseback trails is open year-round, with services like blacksmithing and farriers available during the warmer months.

For the OHV enthusiasts among us, of which my husband is one, the Turkey Bay OHV Area is a mecca for off-roading. Jeeps, side-by-sides, four-wheelers and motorcycles have the ability to camp and ride on over 100 miles of trails that skirt the lake, dive deep into the woods and otherwise snake all through this gorgeous section of the LBL. If you get there early and snag a spot, it’s even possible to set up camp right on the shores of the lake.

Drive through the Elk & Bison Prairie

After you’re done with your lake day in Murray, venture on over to the Golden Pond Planetarium & Observatory for some A/C and a show among the stars. Open seven days a week from 10am to 5pm, the planetarium boasts live presentations that allow visitors to learn about all things space—and even see the constellations via the 360-degree, 40-foot domed theater that is outfitted with surround sound. You can also visit the Elk & Bison Prairie National Wildlife Sanctuary, a 700-acre piece of land that allows these majestic creatures to roam freely within its boundaries just next door.

A great place to take a car full of children to ogle at wildlife, the loop road that runs through the sanctuary is $5 for entrance and has a cash/credit card machine at the gate. The elk are best viewed at dusk during the warmer months.

Hike Eggner’s Ferry Bridge and Hematite Lake

If you’re up for a stroll, tackle the 3.5-mile walk over Eggner’s Ferry Bridge, a modern-looking and soaring structure that crosses the lake. It was originally built in 1932 and later replaced after a cargo ship accident in 2012. The bridge provides a walkway and bike path for runners and cyclists who want to enjoy the views across Kentucky Lake. Park at the Lakeside Trailhead if you’re on the western side of the span; if you’re in the east, stop at Fenton Campground and begin your journey there along the Central Hardwoods Scenic Trail, 11 miles of compacted stone or paved road perfect for mountain or gravel bikes.

Hematite Lake, a favorite spot for scenic photography or birdwatching, is an easy 2.5-mile hike around the 87-acre body of water and is filled with remnants from when it was mined for the iron ore hematite. Nearby is the Woodlands Nature Station that has a mini-zoo of locally rescued animals that couldn’t survive in the wild; it now serves as educational tools for youth groups and adults traveling through the region (entrance fee is $5). Honkey Lake is also very close to the nature station with 4.5 miles of hiking and access for light fishing boats and kayaks or SUPs.

Where to stay in Murray, Kentucky

Because Murray is a college town, there are numerous affordable hotels like a Hampton Inn and Holiday Inn Express that border the campus. We stayed in the SpringHill Suites, a Marriott property with very large family rooms that was perfect for how much we like to spread out when we’re traveling. While on the lake, we also stopped by Kentucky Lake Glamping, which has lakefront Airstream trailers, geodesic domes, and tiny cabins that would be very cool to rent if you wanted to stay outside of town and really take advantage of the outdoors.

If you love camping in Kentucky, Land Between the Lakes has many sites dispersed across the peninsula. Hillman Ferry has 368 individual campsites with six rustic cabins, access to a 59-mile mountain biking trail and an archery range, boat launches, showers and laundry facilities. Piney Campground has 384 sites, nine cabins for rent and is close to the Fort Henry Trail System, an interconnected 30-mile set of deep forest trails for both hikers and mountain bikes. Energy Lake Campground, a 35-site destination that offers 33 with electrical hookups, also has 13 primitive cabins with a beautiful beach swimming area.

If you’re not the camping type but still enjoy exploration of the outdoors, the region offers hundreds of options, from privately-run lake resorts, hotels and short-term rentals on Airbnb and VRBO.

For more tips on what to do in Murray, check out the local tourism site, or download our one-page itinerary if you need tips on the go.

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03/06/2025
How to See Synchronous Fireflies in the Smoky Mountains

As a native Tennessean, there was one thing that was always on my bucket list and that was to see the synchronous fireflies in the Smokies. I also just assumed I’d never be able to get there because it’s a highly competitive lottery process through the National Park Service, and to be honest, I never bothered trying.

And then a few years ago, as it turned out I was already going to be in Gatlinburg that very week, so I threw my name in the hat and voila, I was chosen!

But even after I got the official email, I had a lot of questions leading up to the actual experience, and if you’re planning to go, I’m sure you do, as well. I’ll try to tackle them below.

Note: The 2025 firefly lottery is only open from May 2 to 5. This year’s firefly viewing is May 29 to June 5. This post was last updated in May 2025.

The Smoky Mountain firefly lottery process

The synchronous fireflies (Photinus carolinus) are one of at least 19 species of fireflies that live in the Smokies, but what makes them so special is they’re one of just a few species in the world known to synchronize their flash patterns. This only happens a couple weeks every year in May or June during their reproductive period, so the firefly lottery process isn’t ever opened until mid-spring once those dates are known.

Every year, the national Park system announces the lottery dates in April. This year, they open up today (April 26) and close at 11:59pm EST on Monday (April 29). You have to put a credit card down, and you’ll be charged $1 for an application fee by Recreation.gov.

In mid-May, all lottery applicants will be notified if their application was successful or unsuccessful. If you’re picked, you’ll be assigned a day to see the fireflies during the window of May 29 to June 5.

If you’re selected, the same card will be automatically charged $24 for a parking pass. This fee is per car and helps cover the cost of viewing supplies and staff needed to manage the viewing at Elkmont Campground. The ticket also includes a unique QR code you’ll have to scan to be admitted to the campground.

Although I was a lucky recipient of a lottery pass, the rest of my family—no fewer than six members—applied for the lottery, and none of them were chosen. A total of 1120 car reservations is distributed for the eight-day event, which amounts to just 140 per day, and each vehicle is supposed to have a maximum occupancy of seven people (more on that below).

While you can find synchronous fireflies in other parks of Great Smoky Mountain National Park—and even in other neighboring towns like Oak Ridge—Elkmont Campground is one of the only organized viewings in an area where they’re known to congregate. To minimize the impact to the environment and maximize the experience for those lucky enough to have it, the National Park Service limits these numbers.

During this eight-day managed period, Little River and Jakes Creek Trailheads are closed at night to all but permitted vehicles who get a lottery ticket, as well as foot traffic from registered campers in Elkmont Campground.

Parking passes are not transferable—you’ll have to present a matching ID to the ticket name to be admitted—so please only enter the lottery if you know you’ll be able to attend then as it’s a coveted ticket. Each parking pass is valid only for your assigned date. You can find out more information about synchronous fireflies in the Smokies here.

The firefly experience

We had no idea what to expect or when to get there because the details we received before the synchronous fireflies event were a little bit vague. There were also eight of us, and my lottery tickets specifically said for a car of seven. I was really hoping that Charlotte, who was four at the time, wouldn’t count as a full human, and to be honest, they did not even look in our car so it was a lot of worrying for naught.

You’ll drive to the intersection near the Elkmont Campground Kiosk, and a parking attendant will guide you to your space. Parking is the Jakes Creek Trailhead Parking lot, the Appalachian Clubhouse Parking lot and along the exit roadway. Attendees must always stay on designated trails or paved surfaces.

You have to arrive at the Elkmont viewing area between 6 and 8pm, and no one is allowed in past 8:15pm. You also can’t come back in if you leave. There are portable toilets, but alcohol is not allowed. Bring snacks and water, though.

This is a dark-sky kind of event, and any light emanating from any source (a headlamp, flashlight, phone) can interfere, not to mention disrupt the fireflies’ behavior. Great Smoky Mountain National Park encourages those attending to bring their own low-powered red lighting, and the parking attendant will also give you these red-light bags to cover your phones with.

The one big thing I’ll warn you about seeing the synchronous fireflies is this is a late-night experience. Sunset in the Smokies in June is close to 9pm, and it doesn’t get really dark until an hour past that.

We arrived around 6pm and left at 10pm, and the fireflies were just starting to come out in full force. Take camping chairs because it’s a lot of sitting around, sleep in that morning and plan on staying late.

Where to stay to see the smoky mountain fireflies

There are so many hotels, motels, inns and rental houses throughout Pigeon Forge, Sevierville and Gatlinburg. We were there for a family reunion, so I had rented a 13-bedroom house in downtown Gatlinburg right off of Cherokee Orchard. It took us about 30 minutes to get to the firefly site.

For the Smokies, I recommend looking for a vacation rental via VRBO as it seems to have better inventory than Airbnb. And for the fireflies, specifically, the closer you can get to the Elkmont Campground, the shorter your drive will be. Here are a few contenders:

If you’re going for a longer trip to see Dollywood, which I highly recommend, or do other Smoky Mountains recreation, there are some cool hotels worth looking into like the Wayback Hotel, which would be my pick for adult couples traveling without kids, or Dollywood’s DreamMore Resort or Margaritaville at the Island.

Other questions about the synchronous fireflies in the Smokies

How do you photograph the synchronous fireflies?

Even taking our Canon camera and a tripod, it was extremely hard getting photos of the synchronous fireflies, particularly since we didn’t stay until super late. If you’re just working with an iPhone, I suggest taking a phone tripod like this one and setting your phone on long exposure, though also know your phone will have to be in the red transparent bag. And go in realizing that your photos are likely not going to turn out like the real thing, so this might be one of those things you just experience and commit to memory instead.

What age is good for synchronous fireflies?

There’s a lot of sitting around and waiting, so this isn’t a great activity for super little ones. Charlotte and her cousin Mason, who was six years old at the time, got a little bit restless waiting—and we didn’t even stay until the peak firefly event either. But they loved the lead up to it in which we scampered around the rocks of the Little River.

Is it worth traveling to see the fireflies?

As many of us experienced with the solar eclipse of 2017 and then again of 2024, mother nature is just plain awesome. If you can see a natural phenomenon like this, take the opportunity.

Is this event accessible to those in wheelchairs?

There are a few ADA parking passes available each day, but the terrain can be very uneven and rough, so this event is a tough one for those with mobility challenges.

What else should I visit while I’m in the Smoky Mountains?

Glad you asked! I have plenty of guides to keep you in the mountains for a week or longer:

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02/05/2025
Travel and Blogging Recap: December 2019 – February 2020
Hey everyone. In light of the Coronavirus pandemic, it almost feels silly to update you with what’s going on in my life. I’ll try to keep this light. I hope you are staying safe, healthy, and sane in these difficult times.

Sorry I haven’t written a recap since, oh, December. Grad school has been intense — I’m taking 15 credits right now, so it’s been tough to focus on anything but school. The good news? I’m done in June!

This winter, I’ve mostly stayed put in Ann Arbor. That being said, I did take two trips out west — Park City, Utah, to ski, and Calfornia to see friends.

The amazing City Lights Bookstore in San Francisco, where I finally picked up Little Women

Where I’ve been:
- Park City, Utah (7 days)
- Traverse City, Michigan (3 days)
- San Francisco, CA (6 days)
- LA (3 days)
- Ann Arbor, Michigan (the rest of the time)
Highs:

Skiing in Park City. Over the holidays, my family and I spent a week skiing in Park City, Utah. It was delightful. I felt very fortunate to be able to ski and to take a much-needed break from grad school.

Writing a historical fiction novel. After many false starts writing books (by which I mean I started and quit writing at least ten), I think I have found my genre — historical fiction! I’m 80 pages into my novel and it’s been so much fun to research and write. One thing that helped immensely was The Artist’s Way, a book that leads you through a 12-step creative recovery course. I recommend it to everyone, unconditionally.

Spending spring break in California. As I’ve mentioned on this blog many, many times, San Francisco is my favorite city. So it was wonderful to spend five days there catching up with friends and scoping out potential neighborhoods (P.S. I’m very into Richmond and the Sunset). Though the city has changed a lot in the past 10 years, it’s still where I see myself after graduation. (And if you know anyone hiring for UX design, I would be so grateful for an intro.)

Lows:

Coronavirus. This pandemic feels so surreal and is difficult for so many reasons. I’m trying to do the socially responsible thing by staying home and washing my hands frequently. I’m trying to stay positive and not panic. I’m using this opportunity to finish my novel, read a ton, and re-learn piano. That being said, I’m very worried about people in my life who are at risk, as well as the general state of the world right now.

Michigan winter. Honestly, it sucks to live in a place where it hurts to walk outside six months out of the year. It’s just too damn cold here. Thankfully, spring seems to be right around the corner.

Saying goodbye to Cape Town. I never announced this, but last month I got a two-month internship in Cape Town, South Africa in May and June. I was SO excited about it. But yesterday, I got the news that the internship was canceled. It’s a huge bummer but pales in comparison to what other people are going through — so I’m trying to not feel sorry for myself.

Blogging Stuff

Popular posts

Most popular post: Why Ditching My Dream Camera Made Me Love Photography Again – I was surprised this post did so well. It seems many people felt the same way about mirrorless cameras!

Other posts published since November:

Blogging traffic & income (February 2020):

My blog traffic took a huge hit in November due to a Google update. Traffic is now taking an even bigger hit due to the coronavirus. Dips in my income like this make me grateful blogging is only a side-gig — I’m really feeling for all bloggers and people who work in the travel industry right now.

February traffic: 47,375 page views

September blogging income – $812.25
- Advertising – $693.36
- Affiliate income (Amazon) – $61.78
- Affiliate income (not Amazon): $57.11
- Ebook sales: $0.00
Note that this is my blogging income before deductions or expenses.

Favorite read

The Forgotten Soldier by Guy Sajer – This book won’t be for everyone, but I really enjoyed it. This memoir follows the journey of Guy, a 16-year old French boy who is drafted into the German army in WWII. Though the book has a lot of violence, I really enjoyed Sajer’s introspection on becoming a soldier and what it’s like living in wartime. He is an excellent writer, and writes very poetically about many subjects: “Peace has brought me many pleasures, but nothing as powerful as that passion for survival in wartime, that faith in love, and that sense of absolutes. It often strikes me with horror that peace is really extremely monotonous. During the terrible moments of war one longs for peace with a passion that is painful to bear. But in peacetime one should never, even for an instant, long for war!”

Up next:

Nothing, I guess? I was supposed to go to my friend’s 30th birthday party in Baja, Mexico, in April, but it looks like that won’t be happening. Graduation is also canceled.

How is your winter going? How are you handling/embracing this crazy time? Book recommendations EXTREMELY welcome.

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24/04/2025
One Year Later — How Are You Doing?

I’m not quite sure how to start this. it’s been a while — and by a while, I mean a year.

Honestly, I’ve been putting off writing this post. I wanted to write something eloquent and touching, to summarize COVID and BLM and what it’s like to live through these times. But every time I started, I fell short. So I quit.

But I’ve realized I don’t have to write something meaningful and profound. I just have to write.

Life updates

I feel fortunate that this pandemic hasn’t been too hard on me. When lockdown happened, my parents were kind enough to let me move out of my tiny apartment and move into their house. I haven’t lost any friends or family. I spent most of the summer quarantining in Northern Michigan, which is the perfect place to quarantine because there’s basically no one there.

I feel bad admitting that a lot of positive things have happened to me in the past year. I finished graduate school. I got a job as a UX designer at Deloitte. I got a puppy (!) named Alfie. I fell in love with road-tripping, visiting seven national parks. And I found a place to live that I love! I now live in Austin, Texas.

My sweet puppy, Alfie

But, of course, it hasn’t been all roses. There have been weeks when I’ve doomscrolled endlessly, refreshing the New York Times’ home page an embarrassing amount of times. I’ve strengthened some friendships, but others have fallen by the wayside. Job-hunting during a pandemic was grueling — it took me six months to land a job after I graduated. And don’t even get me started on being single during a pandemic.

But all in all, I know how lucky I am. In the grand scheme of things, I can’t complain.

A year away from blogging has taught me that I really do miss it. I miss writing. I miss sharing book recommendations (you guys always have the best ones). I miss having a space that is all mine.

I’m not sure I’ll ever blog as regularly as I used to, but I still want to check in from time to time.

Which leads me to the question: How are you, really? What has this year been like for you? Are you feeling hopeful or worn out, or both?

Sending you love, wherever and however you are.

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23/04/2025
What Living in Romania is Really Like

Hey everyone! My Living Abroad series, after a long hiatus, is back. Today, I’m chatting with Jennifer, an American teacher and blogger living in Romania.

Jennifer, a serial expat, has spent the past 11 years living and working on four continents, but she now calls Bucharest home. With its gorgeous countryside, low cost of living, and hearty food, she makes Romania seem like a pretty dreamy place to live. I hope you enjoy reading about her life there!

Jennifer’s background:

My name is Jennifer Stevens and I’m originally from a small town near Tampa, Florida. I’ve been an expat for the last 11 years, living in South Korea, Colombia, China, and now Romania. My husband Luke and I both work at the American International School of Bucharest and live in the center of town with our Shanghai street dog, Charlie.

On moving to Romania: Admittedly, I didn’t know much about Romania when my husband and I were offered teaching positions here. But we were keen to explore Europe and knew Eastern Europe would be a more affordable way to do this. Plus, when we Googled Romania, pictures of snow-capped mountains and fairytale castles filled the computer screen!

On making friends with other expats in Romania: To be honest, most of my friends are fellow teachers from school. Romania doesn’t have the same expat scene as other places I’ve lived like in Shanghai, but there is a chapter of InterNations here in Bucharest, and you can find some gatherings on Meetup.com. To make local friends, I’ve found success by talking to fellow dog owners at the parks, and taking fitness classes at gyms (that is, when they were still open).

On living in Romania during Covid-19: It’s had its ups and downs. We’ve been lucky to work at a school that has prioritized the health of its teachers and students, but teaching online has been extremely difficult. It’s now been a full year of Zoom instruction and we’re all completely burned out. Currently, Europe is in its third wave, and the new variants have hit Romania pretty hard. This means strict curfews and lockdowns in some areas (where you have to have a declaration form to leave the house). It also means that schools have to remain closed until cases get down to 6/1,000. Right now, I believe numbers are closer to 9/1,000 where my school is located.

It’s been hard not being able to go home, but Luke and I have a lot of gratitude for our situation. Romania is a beautiful country with plenty of cabin escapes in nearby mountain ranges, and the WIFI is strong. So, while we feel trapped and homesick at times, nature and the ability to quickly connect is a huge comfort.

On Romanian food: Typical Romanian food is heavy and pork-forward. I love the soups here, especially the “sour” variety, which uses fermented barley or wheat bran (borș) to get its flavor. I also love the roasted eggplant dip (salata de vinete), and the summer produce is second-to-none!

A typical Romanian meal is especially perfect on a cold winter day: pork-stuffed cabbage rolls (sarmale), polenta (mămăligă) topped with a dollop of sour cream, some type of sour soup (ciorbă), possibly a side of grilled sausage (mici), and fried cheese doughnuts (papanasi) served with blueberry jam and sweet sour cream.

On learning Romanian: The Romanian language is beautiful, and apparently the closest living language to Vulgar Latin. Since I can speak Spanish, I thought learning Romanian would be easy, but it’s been pretty challenging. I found that when I took lessons, I was mixing up words I knew from Spanish and French.

Most people in Bucharest can speak English, so I typically greet strangers in Romanian (“Buna ziua”), then ask them if they speak English (“Vorbiți Engleza?”). More often than not, the conversation switches to English—which is great for communicating, but bad for learning the language.

On the cost of living: For the most part, Romania is a very inexpensive place to live—especially if you’re coming from the States. Depending on which city you live in and what neighborhood, expats can expect to pay less than $1,000 USD for a 2-bedroom apartment. At least in Bucharest, landlords typically advertise apartments for much more than they’re worth (for example, our 3-bdrm place in downtown Bucharest was advertised for $1,300 and we got it for $1,000). Keep in mind, you can find places much cheaper (especially in an older Communist building or outside the city), or more expensive (in a new expat complex).

For everyday items like produce, it really depends on what you’re buying. Locally grown products are very affordable, and depending on the season, you can get great deals on some of the best tasting fruits and vegetables out there. In July, for example, you can go to Obor market (one of the biggest farmers’ markets in the city) and take home a kilo of blackberries for less than $5. Imported products can be expensive, and I wouldn’t recommend ordering from websites outside the EU, as import taxes can be incredibly steep.

On local fashion: In Bucharest [Romania’s capital], the color black reigns supreme. I’ve actually had trouble finding clothes to my taste, and shoes in particular are tough if your feet run on the larger side (US 9 and above for women). The handmade traditional blouses are absolutely gorgeous though—typically white cotton with billowy sleeves, embroidered in a variety of colors and patterns.

On the medical system: The worst part of living in Romania is the medical system. Romania consistently ranks worst in the EU, according to the Euro Health Consumer Index, which looks at variables like accessibility, treatment outcomes, range of services, care, and pharmaceuticals. I’ve heard of many instances of bribery, and have personally experienced a misdiagnosis and the inability to find my thyroid replacement medicine (the country ran out for many months and I had to find a way to get it from the States).

READ NEXT: How to Make Friends When You Move to a New City

On missing home: I always miss my family most—especially this last year when flying home wasn’t an option. Otherwise, I miss the ease of everyday things, like being able to fully communicate at the doctor’s office, or being able to find the correct products you need to clean your house. I also miss nicely paved streets and familiar road rules.

On the best part about living in Romania: It’s hard to choose just one thing, so I’ll say my top three: the gorgeous countryside, the proximity to other countries in Europe, and the low cost of living.

On living in Romania long-term: Next school year will be our last. Five years will have been the perfect amount of time to properly explore the country and to develop a true appreciation for the people and the culture. But because of my recent cancer journey, our next post will have to be somewhere with a more dependable medical system.

Mulțumesc, Jennifer!

P.S. What Living as an Expat in France is Really Like and What Living as an Expat in Berlin Is Really Like.

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23/04/2025
7 Excellent Books to Read This Summer
Was 2020 a slow reading year for anyone else? The pandemic basically turned my brain into mush.

That being said, my love for reading came back with a vengeance this year. I’ve been reading so much this summer and it feels delicious. I’ve run the gamut from memoirs to fiction to historical non-fiction. I’ve liked some more than others but here are some of my absolute favorite reads of the past year.

Here are seven books I highly recommend picking up this summer:

The Midnight Library follows the story of Nora Seed, a deeply unhappy thirty-something who endlessly ruminates on what might have been. After a near-death experience, she ends up in a library where each book contains a story of an alternate reality. When she picks up a book, she is able to live out one of her parallel lives: from Olympic swimmer to pub owner to glaciologist.

Full of philosophical musings, this book will stick with you long after you’ve read it. I loved this book and read it in less than 24 hours.

If you’ve ever struggled with regret, ghost lives, or wondering “what-if”, I think you’d enjoy this one.

Buy the book on Bookshop here.

The Paris Wife – Paula McClain

The Paris Wife follows the story of Hadley Richardson, Ernest Hemingway’s first wife. Richardson and Hemingway meet in Chicago in 1920, have a whirlwind romance, and quickly move to Paris. They soon find themselves amongst the “Lost Generation.” But as Hemingway’s career picks up steam, their marriage begins to unravel.

What I loved about this book was how real the characters seemed. Although this is a work of fiction, it reads almost like a memoir. The dialogue in particular is excellent.

If you’ve ever dreamt of living in Paris in the 1920s with the likes of Hemingway, Gertrude Stein, and F. Scott Fitzgerald, you’ll enjoy this book.

Buy the book on Bookshop here.

Michelle Zauner, also known as her alias Japanese Breakfast, is a Korean-American indie rock musician. Crying in H Mart, her memoir, is many things: a memoir about losing one’s mother, a bildungsroman, and a story about making it as a famous musician. At its heart though, it’s a book about food and family.

Growing up as the only Korean-American in Eugene, Oregon, Michelle Zauner often feels out of place. But once she grows up and learns to appreciate her Korean roots, her mother dies, and she loses her connection to her heritage.

The way she finds her way back to her roots is through food.

Heartbreaking, sentimental, and gorgeously written, I highly recommend this if you like food memoirs such as Blood, Bones, & Butter.

Buy the book on Bookshop here.

This book is absolutely hilarious. And bizarre.

Lillian and Madison are an unlikely pair of friends. After rooming together at boarding school and then drifting apart, Madison asks the down-and-Lillian to nanny her twins.

The only problem? The children spontaneously burst into flames.

This premise shouldn’t work, but does. I laughed out loud so many times reading this book.

At its core, this book is not just about flammable children; it’s about friendship, abandonment, class divisions, and growing up.

Buy the book on Bookshop here.

Writers & Lovers is the story of Casey Peabody, a 31-year-old woman who has staked her entire life on becoming a writer. Despite this, she still hasn’t finished her first novel. She is also broke, single, and grappling with the recent loss of her mother.

Though her life is in shambles, she is still clutching onto something most of her friends have given up on — the drive to live a creative life.

As I’m now 31, I related to so much of this book. As the book jacket says, it follows a woman who is in “the last days of a long youth”: a time of your life that can feel akin to Indian Summer.

If you’re around this age or have ever had a dream to live a more creative life, I highly recommend this book.

Buy the book on Bookshop here.

Daisy Jones & the Six follows a fictional band’s rise to fame in the 1970s.

I found this book a little jarring at first, as it reads like a transcript. Once you become accustomed to the dialogue-only writing style, it’s hard to put this book down.

If you’re a fan of 70’s music or this era, I think you’ll enjoy this book. Though the characters are a little cliche (gorgeous but mysterious female lead singer, controlling but insanely talented band leader), they still felt real to me.

If you haven’t read it yet, I also recommend Taylor Jenkin Reid’s previous book, The Seven Lives of Evelyn Hugo.

Buy the book on Bookshop here.

The Splendid and the Vile is set during the Blitz, a German bombing campaign on London that occurred from June 1940 – June 1941. It centers on Winston Churchill’s first year in office, and his fight against the Luftwaffe and their relentless raids on London.

Though some parts of the book dragged on (especially the romances), overall this book transported me to London in the first years of the war: blackouts, bombings, and people carrying on with their lives regardless of the turmoil and strife.

Buy the book on Bookshop here.

My 2021 summer reading list:
- The Shell Seekers by Rosamunde Pilcher (I’m halfway through and it’s soo good!)
- Where the Crawdads Sing by Delia Owens
- The Devil in the White City by Erik Larson
- Norse Mythology by Nail Gaiman
- Malibu Rising by Taylor Jenkins Reed
What’s on your reading list for this year?

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23/04/2025
Exploring Cappadocia with Kids: A Family Adventure

Cappadocia is one of Turkey’s most magical destinations, and it’s not just for adults. With its fairy-tale landscapes, underground cities, and hot air balloons, Cappadocia is a dream destination for families traveling with children. If you’re looking for the perfect base to explore the region, Uçhisar is an excellent choice.

This charming village offers stunning panoramic views, easy access to major attractions, and a quieter atmosphere compared to busier towns like Göreme. Here’s how you can make the most of your Cappadocia adventure with kids while using Uçhisar as your home base.

Why Stay in Uçhisar?

Uçhisar is the highest point in Cappadocia, offering breathtaking views of the valleys and fairy chimneys. It’s less crowded than Göreme but still close to all the major attractions. The town itself is home to Uçhisar Castle, an ancient rock fortress that kids will love exploring. Many of the hotels in Uçhisar are built into the rock formations, providing a unique experience that will delight children and adults alike.

We stayed at the Peristyles cave Hotel in Cappadocia, which has a great terrace from which to take the pictures of the balloons you see below. The breakfast is also fantastic!

Start the Day with Hot Air Balloons

One of the most iconic experiences in Cappadocia is watching the hot air balloons rise over the valleys at sunrise. While young children may not be able to go on a balloon ride (most companies have a minimum age requirement), watching them from the terraces of Uçhisar is just as magical. Many hotels in town offer early morning breakfast with spectacular balloon views, making for a memorable start to the day. This is what we did!

Explore Göreme Open-Air Museum

Just a short drive from Uçhisar, the Göreme Open-Air Museum is a must-visit for families. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is a collection of ancient rock-cut churches adorned with well-preserved frescoes. Kids will love exploring the caves and learning about the history of early Christian settlements in the region. The site is relatively easy to navigate with children, though a stroller may not be ideal due to uneven terrain.

Horseback Riding in Cappadocia

We had always dreamed of exploring Cappadocia, but experiencing it on horseback with our kids made it even more magical. There are many horseback riding companies in the area, but very few of them allow kids under 12 to join them. One of the few that do is Moonlight Horse Ranch, a super friendly operator which made for great memories.

From the moment we saddled up, the landscape opened up in a way we could have never imagined—fairy chimneys, hidden valleys, and wide-open trails stretched as far as the eye could see. Our guide was incredibly friendly and made sure the horses were gentle and suited to each of our experience levels, especially for the kids. It felt like we had stepped into a storybook world, trotting past ancient rock formations and cave dwellings while the kids giggled and pointed out every new discovery.

What made the tour truly special was how family-friendly it was. The pace was relaxed, allowing us to enjoy the scenery and chat with each other along the way. We paused midway through to take in the view over a quiet valley, where the kids got off their horses and ran around for a bit while we took photos. It was one of those rare travel experiences where everyone, regardless of age, felt connected—to the place, to the moment, and to each other.

Adventure in Love Valley and Pigeon Valley

For families who enjoy the outdoors, a hike through Love Valley or Pigeon Valley is a great way to experience Cappadocia’s natural beauty. Pigeon Valley, in particular, is accessible from Uçhisar and offers easy trails that kids can manage, though watch out for heat during the summer days.

Along the way, you’ll see ancient pigeon houses carved into the rocks and stunning rock formations. If hiking isn’t an option, horseback riding tours are available and offer a fun alternative for exploring the valleys.

Admission is free, by the way.

Discover the Underground Cities

Older kids with a sense of adventure will love exploring Cappadocia’s underground cities. Derinkuyu and Kaymaklı are two of the largest and most famous. These subterranean cities, once used by early Christians as hiding places, feature narrow tunnels, living quarters, and ventilation shafts.

While some parts may be a bit claustrophobic, they offer an exciting and educational experience for families interested in history.

Pottery Making in Avanos

A short drive from Uçhisar, the town of Avanos is famous for its pottery tradition, dating back thousands of years. Many local workshops offer hands-on experiences where kids can try their hand at making their own clay creations. This interactive activity is both fun and educational, allowing children to connect with Cappadocia’s artistic heritage.

Evening Relaxation in Uçhisar

After a day of exploring, Uçhisar provides a peaceful retreat where families can relax and enjoy traditional Turkish cuisine. Many restaurants in the town offer family-friendly menus with delicious local dishes such as pottery kebabs and lentil soup. The cool evening breeze and stunning sunset views over Cappadocia’s valleys make for the perfect ending to an adventurous day.

Final Thoughts

Exploring Cappadocia with kids is an unforgettable experience, and Uçhisar is the perfect base for a family-friendly adventure. Whether watching hot air balloons, hiking through valleys, or creating pottery, there are plenty of activities to keep children entertained and engaged. With its breathtaking scenery, rich history, and welcoming atmosphere, Cappadocia promises an enchanting trip for the entire family.

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23/04/2025
Fun Things to Do in Kayseri with Kids (in summer)

Kayseri, a charming city in central Turkey, is known for its rich history, stunning landscapes, and delicious cuisine. While many travelers visit for its historical sites and winter sports, Kayseri also offers plenty of family-friendly activities in the summer. From exploring nature to hands-on learning experiences, there’s no shortage of ways to keep kids entertained while creating lasting memories.

If you’re planning a summer visit, here are some of the best things to do with children in Kayseri.

Cool Off and Have Fun at Sirin Aquapark

Summer in Kayseri can get quite warm, making water activities the perfect way to cool down. Sirin Aquapark, located in the Melikgazi district, is one of the best places for kids to splash around. The park features various pools, thrilling water slides, and designated shallow areas for younger children. Families can relax under shaded areas while kids enjoy the water attractions, making it an ideal spot to spend a hot afternoon.

Discover Science in an Interactive Way

For a fun and educational experience, the Kayseri Science Center is a must-visit. This interactive museum encourages children to engage with science through hands-on exhibits and experiments. Kids can explore different sections focused on physics, space, and natural sciences while learning in an exciting and entertaining environment. The air-conditioned indoor setting also provides a great escape from the midday heat.

Explore the Natural Beauty of Aladağlar National Park

Kayseri is home to some breathtaking natural landscapes, and Aladağlar National Park is one of the best places to explore with kids. Located just outside the city, the park is known for its hiking trails, waterfalls, and picnic areas. While summer temperatures can be warm, the high-altitude location and the presence of lakes and rivers provide a refreshing outdoor experience. Families can take easy hikes, observe wildlife, or simply enjoy a picnic surrounded by nature’s beauty.

Step Back in Time at Kayseri Castle

Children who love stories of knights and castles will be fascinated by a visit to Kayseri Castle. This well-preserved fortress dates back to Roman times and has been an important landmark throughout history. Walking along the ancient walls and exploring the site’s history can be an exciting adventure for kids, sparking their imagination about the past. The surrounding area also has charming cafés and shops where families can take a break and enjoy local treats.

Have an Active Day at Soysalli Park

Kayseri has several well-maintained parks, but Soysalli Park is particularly family-friendly. With large green spaces, playgrounds, and walking paths, it’s an excellent place for children to run, play, and burn off some energy. The park also has plenty of shaded areas, making it a comfortable location for a summer outing. Bring along a picnic and enjoy a leisurely afternoon while the kids explore the playgrounds and outdoor facilities.

Visit the Imaginary Museum of Childhood (Hayal Müzesi)

A unique and creative space for children, the Imaginary Museum of Childhood is dedicated to sparking kids’ creativity. The museum features interactive exhibits and engaging activities that allow children to learn and play simultaneously. Whether it’s through storytelling, hands-on workshops, or artistic displays, this museum offers a refreshing break from traditional sightseeing.

Explore the Covered Bazaar and Enjoy Local Treats

No visit to Kayseri is complete without exploring its famous Kapalı Çarşı, or Covered Bazaar. This historic market is full of colorful textiles, handcrafted goods, and delicious local foods. Kids will love discovering the variety of items on display, from intricate carpets to traditional sweets like pastirma and sucuk. It’s also a great place to teach children about Turkish culture and trade while picking up unique souvenirs.

Take a Day Trip to Soğanlı Valley

For families who enjoy a mix of history and nature, a day trip to Soğanlı Valley is a fantastic option. The valley is known for its rock-cut churches and stunning scenery. Children will love exploring the caves and ancient dwellings while parents appreciate the breathtaking landscape. The valley also has picnic spots and walking trails that make for a pleasant day outdoors.

Enjoy a Summer Evening in Kayseri’s City Center

As the sun sets, the city comes alive with open-air cafés, cultural performances, and family-friendly entertainment. Cumhuriyet Square is a great place to experience the local atmosphere, with beautiful fountains and historical landmarks nearby. Families can take an evening stroll, grab some delicious dondurma (Turkish ice cream), and soak in the vibrant summer energy of Kayseri.

Final Thoughts

Kayseri is a fantastic summer destination for families, offering a mix of adventure, culture, and relaxation. Whether you’re cooling off at a water park, exploring nature, or diving into the city’s rich history, there’s something for kids of all ages. With its welcoming atmosphere and diverse attractions, Kayseri ensures a memorable vacation for the whole family. So, pack your bags and get ready to create wonderful memories with your children in this beautiful Turkish city!

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23/04/2025
What Living in Abu Dhabi as an Expat is Really Like

Today, the Living Abroad series takes us to the United Arab Emirates where we meet Jay, a Canadian expat who lives in Abu Dhabi with her husband, Joe, and their two children. Here, we talk about the challenges of learning Arabic, popular snack foods (ever hear of luqaimat?), and how living in Abu Dhabi has challenged her initial assumptions about the Middle East.

Jay’s background: We moved to Abu Dhabi in August of 2016. from Stavanger, Norway. Prior to that, we had been in Norway and Gabon. These days, I’m a full-time mom. But back in the day, I was a teacher. I majored in English and taught middle school. With my youngest now entering school, I’m working on my next steps and hoping to pursue some creative ambitions.

After living in Norway, Abu Dhabi was a relatively easy transition. The service industry thrives here and the population is 90% expatriates. Culturally, it has been really interesting experiencing the Middle East and it has challenged and changed many of my preconceived notions.

On the cost of living: The UAE is more expensive than the US in most regards. This is the place to make money (there’s no income tax) but it’s also the place to spend money.

On learning Arabic: I find Arabic incredibly difficult. My son learns it in school and remote learning has really put me to the test. Most everyone speaks English here so there is rarely a time where we are not understood but I’ve picked up a few common Arabic phrases – khallas [“enough”], inshallah [“God willing”], as-salamu alaykum [“peace be with you”], and alhamdulillah [“praise be to God”].

On Emirati food: Because the vast majority of residents are expatriates and most of the restaurants are international, Emirati food is not particularly common. The origins of many Middle Eastern dishes are often up for great debate but biryani (a rice dish), hummus, and kebabs are common and if you’re looking for something interesting, you can track down a camel burger. Sweet shops and coffee places are abundant and often full of locals at all hours of the day. I like the luqaimat, a deep-fried ball of dough drizzled with date syrup.

On smoking hookah: It’s actually called shisha here! I think we did once when we had a friend visiting but it’s not something we seek out. There are many shisha bars and cafes though and it’s certainly easy to find.

On the local fashion: Local women in Abu Dhabi usually wear an abaya, often black but not always, with a shayla, a thin headscarf. Fancy handbags and shoes are the norm. Men wear a long white robe called a kandora often with a white ghotra, a scarf-like fabric, on the head.

In Abu Dhabi, I generally dress more conservatively than I would at home. I try to keep my shoulders and knees covered when I’m out in the city. As you spend time here you realize where it’s more accepted to dress down (international hotels, certain housing complexes) and where it’s better to be more conservative (the post office, government buildings, schools). That said, things have changed a lot in the five years I’ve been here. I see women dress in all sorts of manners and it’s more accepted than it was when we first arrived.

On raising kids in Abu Dhabi: It is interesting being a mom in Abu Dhabi because we live amongst so many different cultures. My children’s school has over 60 nationalities represented so we see a wide variety of families and values. The biggest contrast to other places we’ve lived is the amount of help and staff people employ here. We are one of the few families I know that do not employ a full-time nanny. When I take my kids to the playground in our community, I’m often the only mom amongst the nannies. Also, kids stay out very late here! It’s not uncommon to see small children strolling the mall or in a restaurant at 10 pm.

On safety: Rules are strict in Abu Dhabi; it is such a safe place. We joke that you can leave your wallet on a table and come back the next day and it would still be sitting there. Street harassment is not a concern. I have never been harassed nor really felt unsafe (not including driving) in my five years here.

On living in Abu Dhabi during Covid-19: It has been interesting and occasionally frustrating. Rules come hard and fast and you don’t dare break them or criticize them. Abu Dhabi itself has become a bubble even within the UAE. Other emirates, including Dubai, have taken a different approach and we now have a permanent border between Abu Dhabi and the rest of the country where you must show a recent PCR to cross back into the capital. The UAE had the second-fastest vaccine rollout in the world – I was fully vaccinated by the end of February – and has relied heavily on extensive testing. I’ve been tested nearly 15 times just because it’s necessary to enter buildings or return to Abu Dhabi. Certainly, there are times where rules don’t make sense or I wished restrictions would lessen slightly but it has also felt very safe.

On missing home: We’ve been gone for over 11 years now so there is not much, materialistically speaking, that we miss anymore. But certainly, in light of the pandemic, we miss our family. We haven’t been home in two years and it’s hard not knowing when we’ll be able to visit. I also miss fresh air. The heat, humidity, and the sand of the desert just don’t bring the crisp, clean air.

On the best part about living in Abu Dhabi: I love the call to prayer. I love that I can get absolutely anything delivered. I love valet parking everywhere and beautiful hotels and restaurants.

On the worst part: It can be hard to reconcile that many of the things I love about living here come at a cost in terms of the service and manual labor. People are not treated equally here. Also, the summer heat – it literally feels like living in an oven.

On living in Abu Dhabi long-term: We’ve been in Abu Dhabi for five years and feel fairly settled and comfortable. I’d be okay staying for another year or two but my husband is starting to get itchy feet! Covid has definitely changed the game though so it seems like everything from borders to opportunities are all a lot more difficult.

Thanks, Jay! Your photos are gorgeous.

P.S. The full Living Abroad series and What Living as an Expat in France is Really Like.

(Family photos courtesy of Luma Photography.)

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22/04/2025