Over the past couple years, we’ve worked on tourism projects with cities large and small across Tennessee, unearthing just how pivotal a role places like Franklin played in the Civil War. We’ve already covered a bit of Civil War history in Franklin but thought the Battle of Stones River and some of the lesser-known Civil War sites in Middle Tennessee also deserved a deep dive.
This post was last updated in August 2025.
The Civil War in Murfreesboro and beyond
It’s impossible to understand the geography and psychology of the American Civil War without including Tennessee—Rutherford County, in particular, had a front-row seat to the most devastating war in the history of our country. Armies on both sides, hundreds of thousands of men, marched across the centerline of the Volunteer State in the early 1860s, setting up bulwarks and camps, conquering strategic locations and suffering crippling losses—until almost the bitter end.
Situated in the heartland of the United States and at the crossroads of civilization in North America, Tennessee was an epicenter and busy intersection of opposing forces during the conflict, with only the great state of Virginia taking the questionable lead in the number of individual battles fought throughout. A strategic prize that both sides valued because of its major rivers, abundant resources and crisscrossing rail lines and turnpikes, Middle Tennessee became a superhighway of marching troops and supplies for the entire four years of the war.
Artifacts of warfare are still buried across the region among the soybean, wheat and cornfield landscapes, which were transformed into an angry battle of ideals and property rights. The countryside is infused with the legacy of the War Between the States, and while it’s easy to breeze through the area on Interstate 24 in search of country music or a scenic waterfall, these monuments to the struggles of our ancestors are beautifully appropriate places to pay some respect.
The battles that raged across the flatlands of this area range from skirmishes to all-out war, and Rutherford County was no stranger to bloodshed and spent ammunition; the Battle of Stones River alone resulted in 24,000 casualties, one of the worst of the entire conflict.
Key Civil War sites in Middle Tennessee
If you’re wanting to understand more of Murfreesboro’s Civil War history, here are some of the sites of fights that happened more than 2,900 times on the soil of Tennessee throughout the span of a few years.
Battle of Milton / Vaught’s Hill
A small skirmish that, nevertheless, resulted in the deaths of hundreds, this battle was waged just north of Readyville and east of Murfreesboro. Besides being an attack by the Confederate army that failed to overrun the Union soldiers on Vaught’s Hill, it also solidified the strength of an organized cavalry, with Colonel John T. Wilder’s “Lightning Brigade” being among the defenders that repelled a larger force.
Battle of Hoover’s Gap
Once again employing Colonel Wilder’s fast-moving brigade with a high degree of effectiveness, General William Rosecrans sent these mounted troops, followed by the regular army, in a big push to control this critical section of the war zone in 1863. Soldiers from both sides of the conflict were spread out from Wartrace to McMinnville and across Rutherford County before converging on areas near Beechgrove, right on Interstate 24 where the road narrows. Spencer Repeating Rifles, a favored firearm for Wilder’s troops, were a fairly new introduction to the Union Army, and had devastating effect.
map by Hal Jespersen, www.cwmaps.com
This battle, and subsequent engagement in Tullahoma, forced the entire Confederate army to retreat to Chattanooga, setting the stage for the Battle of Chickamauga, Battles for Chattanooga, and eventually a clear path for General Sherman’s army to conquer Atlanta and the remainder of the deep South.
Battle of the Cedars / Third Battle of Murfreesboro
General John Bell Hood, in a desperate attempt to force the Union’s hand in the Southern Theater and halt Sherman’s march from Atlanta to Savannah, led a series of assaults up and down the Middle Tennessee corridor in late-1864. The Battle of Franklin was the most notorious of these engagements due to massive casualties, but the Third Battle of Murfreesboro, led by General Nathan Bedford Forrest, was a raid intended to reinforce the Franklin-Nashville campaign by cutting off rail service between Nashville and Murfreesboro.
map by Hal Jespersen, www.cwmaps.com
While Forrest had some success in destroying tracks and depots, the stage had inevitably been set for the end of the war, and his efforts were some of the last battles of the Confederates in Tennessee before the war concluded the following year.
Battle of Stones River
Mustering more than 76,000 troops on both sides, Union and Confederate armies closed ranks in late-1862 for this battle, viciously fighting for control of Middle Tennessee. The federal army, commanded by General William Rosecrans, was positioned along the banks of the Stones River near Murfreesboro on the eve of the year, awaiting an attack from the Army of Tennessee, commanded by the erratic general, Braxton Bragg.
What followed was wholesale slaughter—on both sides—that ended in a draw. Bragg later retreated and regrouped in Tullahoma while federal forces claimed victory, despite the staggering number of dead and injured, estimated to be more than 25,000 over the course of three days.
Tullahoma Campaign
When General Braxton Bragg made his headquarters in Tullahoma following a retreat from Rutherford County, he was actively fighting with his subordinate commanders; Nathan Bedford Forrest, a brigadier general under his command, in particular, had threatened to kill him. While the rain poured down, turning the area into a sludge pool, Rosencrans gathered his forces in Murfreesboro in preparation for an assault down the sharply-terraced and well-defended spline of Middle Tennessee.
In late June 1863 when the machinery of war started rumbling up again, nearly 100,000 men on both sides were stationed at various points across Columbia, Shelbyville, Tullahoma, Manchester and McMinnville. The Duck River Line, formed by the Confederates, couldn’t hold as the Union side made a series of feints and smashed through critical choke points, such as Hoover’s Gap and Liberty Gap, both times heavily armed with the Spencer rifle, which proved absolutely deadly against regimental charges. The Confederate Army of Tennessee—at that point diminished by infighting and miscommunications between commanders yet still lethal—attempted to set up a command in Decherd before retiring across the Tennessee River to the Chattanooga area, setting the stage for the next phase of the conflict.
This is just a sampler of the numerous battles that took place on Tennessee soil, and if you’re interested in reading further, I recommend starting your education with this three-volume set by late historian Shelby Foote.
If you’re planning to visit Middle Tennessee soon, here are a few sites that will start your deep-dive into the Civil War history of the region:
One of my favorite weekends getaways is Franklin, Tennessee. It’s just an hour from where we live, but sometimes it feels necessary to break up your routine and reset your mental battery for a weekend—the closer, the better. And with the opening of the Harpeth Hotel a few years back, we love to stay in Franklin and ditch our cars for a weekend getaway that is walkable and brimming with good food and even better cocktails.
This post was last updated in August 2025.
So if you’re coming to Williamson County for a week, a weekend or just a night, here’s what to expect with a stay at the Harpeth Hotel.
Staying in Downtown Franklin
The Harpeth Hotel is the place to stay in downtown Franklin, and it’s also the city’s premier boutique hotel option. With 119 guest rooms spread throughout the four-story hotel, it embodies the look and feel of Williamson County, which is to say: upscale, yet approachable; historic in honoring Franklin’s roots while simultaneously contemporary in design and offerings.
What I love the most about the location is how walkable it is. You can check your car into the valet and explore Franklin on foot for the majority of the weekend, no car needed. Everywhere on Main Street is walkable from the Harpeth, as is the Factory at Franklin, the Franklin Farmers Market, the Park at Harlinsdale Farm and so much more.
What to know about Franklin
But first, if you’re new to this area of the South, you need to know a bit about Franklin’s backstory. Fiercely fought over throughout its history as a Western settlement, Franklin and the surrounding counties suffered losses of American life that are gut-wrenching to contemplate. The steamrollers of war spared quite a few architectural treasures in this part of the world that you can tour and a network of interlinked cultural sites illustrate with excruciating detail how the thousands of acres of graveyards scattered on the countryside were populated with the bodies of men. Some of the most pivotal battles of the Civil War happened in this well-preserved Tennessee town, a fact that’s easy to forget unless you visit the battlefields and museums, which we must insist you do.
The hotel is part of a greater development project that fuses 150 residential spaces with commercial concepts; you’ll find everything from the Bakehouse to the NOW Massage day spa in Harpeth Square, just minutes outside of your door. The square also has its own restaurants like Culaccino and Culamar, plus an olive oil shop to boot.
Named after the river that snakes its way through town, the Harpeth Hotel is part of the Curio Collection by Hilton, so it meets the brand’s standards while still being completely unique. This means that you can accrue Hilton Honors points if you’re a member and also use the Hilton Keyless App if you prefer.
The Harpeth has a couple of different lodging options, including standard and accessible rooms, as well as various suites: junior, king and presidential. Many rooms have balconies with seating areas, a definite plus in warmer months.
Oh, and did I mention that the Harpeth Hotel is pet-friendly, too? This seamlessly ties into Franklin’s pet-friendly approach to welcome dogs into the town’s various spaces: the shops, the cafes, the restaurant patios, the galleries.
The hotel also boasts some really gorgeous event spaces; if you have a group of 250 or less, the Harpeth is the perfect place in Franklin in which to host your meeting, conference or other event.
What I love the most about the Harpeth Hotel is that it truly lives up to its motto of being “Franklin’s living room.” When I’m staying in a plush boutique like this one, I prefer to spend time physically in the hotel, but not necessarily inside the confines of my room, which is why the Harpeth is the perfect place to stay in Franklin for me.
There are nooks and vignettes all over the hotel that lend themselves well to grabbing a cup of coffee (or if you’re us, a cocktail) and settling in for a long chat with a friend or an afternoon with your laptop if you’re always working on the road.
The Library also hosts a daily whiskey tasting for guests at 4:45pm, in which a skilled connoisseur will guide you through a sampling of a special whiskey, some from the area and others hand-picked from destinations across the world.
There’s a courtyard right smack in the middle of the hotel that connects to the lobby bar and the Riverside Ballroom with staircases leading up to the second level of the hotel, in addition to ample seating for those who prefer to lounge in the open air. In the summer, there’s live music in the courtyard several nights a week, but no matter the season, you’ll find someone taking the mic in the Harpeth’s 1799 bar on every weekend as the singer-songwriter industry is at the core of Franklin’s culture.
In fact, there are even Gibson guitars hanging in the lobby that guests can check out for free to play!
Eating and drinking at the Harpeth Hotel in Franklin
The centerpiece of the hotel’s lobby is the chef-driven 1799 Kitchen & Bar Room, which is as visually striking as it is delicious. Built around the abstract deconstruction of the inside of a whiskey barrel, with large, circular nook booths encased in the restaurant’s staves, this corner of the hotel is incredibly pleasing to the eye with all of its lines and symmetry.
The homage to the colors and texture of whiskey beer mash inside of the oak is stunning, and surprisingly the design limitations of working in the round appear to have only enhanced the experience of dining with companions because we could actually hear each other speak, an essential quality that unfortunately has been forgotten all too often if you’re breaking bread with others.
The menu trends to high-end French and Italian, with locally sourced ingredients for menu items like the trout, pork roast, leg of lamb and steak. Brunch is also spun up as an option and includes all the usual suspects like crab Benedict, chicken and waffles, and flank steak, among other choices for a lazy weekend meal.
There’s also a bar in the central lobby area that carries local spirits like Leiper’s Fork Distillery, as well as craft beer from Jackalope, Wiseacre and other Tennessee breweries. No big surprise that this is where we made our base during the length of our stay!
And if you’re looking for a more casual grab-and-go option, McGavock’s Coffee Bar & Provisions is the place for you. Tucked in the corner of the building right along Main Street, this bistro has specialty coffee drinks, beer, cocktails, fresh pastries, handmade ice cream and a selection of lunch items. We loved it so much, we’ve now been for lunch at McGavock’s three times in less than two weeks; SVV always gets the bahn mi, while the roast beef sandwich is my go-to.
Whether you are staying in downtown Franklin or are just passing through, lunch at McGavock’s and/or a meal at 1799 should definitely be on your to-eat list in a city crowded with culinary delights.
Around the Harpeth Hotel
Of course, the hotel is right on Main Street, meaning there’s plenty to do, see and eat beyond its walls. So many of my favorite shops in Franklin are located within blocks’ of the Harpeth, including Emmaline, Tin Cottage, Hester & Cook, White’s Mercantile and Rooted by Yarrow Acres, a plant store with the most gorgeous greenery.
If you’ve already eaten at 1799, there are plenty of whiskey stops—like Stable Reserve, OBJ and Leiper’s Fork Distillery’s House of Spirits—along Main Street, as well as plenty of places to eat within walking distance from the Harpeth Hotel. A few of my favorite downtown Franklin restaurants include: Gray’s on Main, Red Pony, Cork & Cow, 55 South and Biscuit Love.
And while McGavock’s is divine for a cup of joe, downtown Franklin also houses an outpost of one of my favorite regional coffee brands: Frothy Monkey. You can also walk to the Factory at Franklin, a beloved spot of both SVV’s and mine thanks to the artisan-backed shops and eateries that populate this old textile mill just outside of downtown.
I suggest staying in downtown Franklin a three-day weekend so you can make the most of the area’s Civil War history, as well as hitting up the Masters & Makers trail, Leiper’s Fork and the Tennessee Whiskey Trail. Franklin is also a great base for exploring the Natchez Trace Parkway, which travels right through the heart of the county.
When to visit Franklin
Like most of Tennessee, Franklin’s most popular months are often April and May and September and October, though the height of summer promises greenery in spade. That said, it depends on the year, as our winters are getting shorter, meaning it’s warmer through late November and starts to thaw by March. That also means you shouldn’t discount the holiday season, though. In fact, at the moment, it’s mid-60s and prices are lower, but yuletide spirit is high!
Franklin has a few banner events, my go-tos being Pilgrimage Music Festival every September and Dickens of a Christmas in mid-December. Both are located in or adjacent to downtown Franklin and walkable from the hotel.
Looking for more Franklin travel tips? Start here:
Long-time readers know that no one loves a good road trip quite like our pup Ella If she could, she’d go with us everywhere. The problem? Not everywhere is pet-friendly—well, not everywhere ispet-friendly like Franklin, Tennessee, I should add.
This post was last updated in August 2025.
Sure, there are plenty of trips she can go on, but we’ve been down that road before: taken her to a city that on its surface appears to be pet-friendly (Denver, we’re looking at you), but really, truly is not, so we end up compromising our adventures to keep her safe and happy. There’s nothing more stressful for pet owners than to have to leave their pup behind in a hotel room for long days on end or, worse, a locked car with the motor and air-conditioning running. So more often than not, she stays home with my mom and we count down the days until we’re all reunited again.
Taking your dog to Franklin
Lucky for us, many of Tennessee’s cities have jumped on the pet-friendly bandwagon, and Franklin is at the forefront of that movement. Mars Petcare’s corporate campus and global innovation center are both in Williamson County, and in addition to creating a pet-friendly work environment, they’ve committed to teaching businesses like shops and restaurants with patios how to be more accommodating to animals like me, the company also is trying to encourage more offices across the country to implement a pet-friendly workplace policy.
In 2017, Franklin became the pilot city for Mars Petcare’s “Better Cities for Pets” initiative. But what does this mean exactly? While some local businesses like Gallery 202 have always allowed pets, the program has brought in more than 100 Franklin businesses in an effort to make that more ubiquitous by creating urban spaces where pets are welcomed and supported, contributing to the well-being of both pets and their owners.
Part of the program is providing businesses with a toolkit to better serve pets and their people by creating a stress-free environment for all. The result is dozens of dogs strolling Main Street on any given afternoon—and that we can take Ella along with us on a day in Franklin. The initiative also aspires to build true pet-friendly communities by supporting shelters, homes, businesses and parks, touching on four key cornerstones: shelters, parks, homes and businesses.
Pets can’t speak for themselves, so the mentality behind the program is that it’s up to people and communities to advocate for them and the many ways they make our lives better. For us, as Ella’s humans, it’s comforting that we can take her all over Franklin and aren’t going to run into “NO DOGS ALLOWED” signs around every turn.
The expansion of the program has meant signage directing you to businesses that allow your pets inside, water bowls stationed along Main Street, waste bag stations and other amenities.
And for the rare downtown business that doesn’t accept dogs–and for restaurants for whom it’s a health code violation—there’s polite signage alerting you when they are not allowed inside.
Ella gives Williamson County’s efforts two paws up and can’t wait till her next day trip to Franklin!
Where to stay in Franklin with pets
Our favorite place to stay in Franklin is the Harpeth Hotel, and lucky for you and your pup, they allow dogs. But there are dozens of Franklin hotels that accept dogs, many of them along the I-65 corridor. Pet-friendly hotels include:
Other pet-friendly places in Franklin
Franklin is more than just Main Street, so if you’re exploring beyond downtown, you may want to factor these pet-friendly stops—parks, restaurants, bars and shops that accept pets in Franklin—into your plans:
One of the best things about living in Tennessee is the number of day trips available to us on any given week. We live just an hour south of Nashville, which affords us regular outings like a quick trip to the Smokies, an afternoon of waterfall hopping or a day trip to Franklin.
Franklin factored into so many things I did as a kid: It’s where we played the bulk of my major soccer and tennis tournaments. It also boasted what was, at the time, the best mall in Middle Tennessee: Cool Springs Galleria. And many of our class field trips in elementary and middle school were to Franklin’s major Civil War sites like Carnton and Carter House.
As an adult, Williamson County is one of my favorite places to spend an afternoon, as well as take visiting friends. And while it’s a great option for a weekend getaway, it’s also an easy day trip from Nashville if you’re already in the area and want to see a different side of Tennessee. So if you’re considering a drive, here’s how I would spend a day in Franklin.
Take a stroll down Main Street
The best place to start any day trip to Franklin is in its cultural and geographic center: Main Street. The city has two free parking garages on 2nd Avenue South and 4th Avenue, and there’s free street parking on Main Street and all along its arteries.
Once you’re parked for the morning, the Franklin Visitor Center is always a necessary stop to pick up themed guides—Franklin has a trail for everything: sweets, murals, coffee—as well as shop the merch and use the public bathroom.
From there, you can explore downtown Franklin by foot. The city was founded in 1799, but the Downtown Franklin Association didn’t come along until 1984, spearheading the revitalization of the city’s historic downtown core, driving economic development and bringing in businesses by the dozens.
You could easily spend a weekend in Franklin perusing the shops—White’s Mercantile, DeAnn Art Gallery and Rooted are a few of my personal favorites—and dining your way around downtown from Red Pony to Cork & Cow or Grays on Main, which has one of the most photographed signs on Main Street.
On the other side of the street sits one of Franklin’s most iconic landmarks downtown, which has survived the test of time: the Franklin Theatre, Main Street’s beating heart since it was built in 1937. A massive renovation in 2007 shut the facility down for three years, but today, it hosts a variety of movies, live music, comedy, musicals and more.
Before you leave downtown, be sure and pay a visit to the March to Freedom statue. Installed a few years back, the statues and other markers in Public Square comprising the Fuller Story serve to tell a broader narrative about the area’s Civil War history that include the U.S. Colored Troops, nearly 24,000 of whom served in Tennessee and were pivotal to the war efforts.
If you prefer a guided tour to self-learning, Franklin Walking Tours offers a handful of history-focused itineraries like Franklin Charm, Franklin’s Fierce Females, and Grim and Ghostly for those who love a spooky outing.
Detour to the Factory
From downtown, it’s less than five minutes by car—or exactly mile on foot—to the Factory at Franklin, an old 1929 manufacturing warehouse that once was the headquarters for stove and bedding companies. In recent years, it’s morphed into the perfect example of a third place, a mixed-use mashup of dining, retail, office spaces and entertainment.
The brick-and-steel facility, which is ever-evolving, now houses dozens of bars and restaurants, too—including etch, Saffire, Two Hands, Mojo’s Tacos, Honest Coffee Roasters and Otaku Ramen—and is the home of Studio Tenn and special events like the Red Wheel singer-songwriter series.
It also has several kid-friendly activities, like a make-your-own pottery studio and a carousel, as well as a lively Saturday farmers market that’s one of the largest in Tennessee, boasting roughly 100 vendors selling produce, meats, cheese, herbs, flowers and crafts.
Explore the Civil War history in Franklin
No day trip to Franklin is complete without a history lesson: Now that you’ve seen the city’s present-day boom, it’s important to understand its past and how we got here. Franklin is home to one of Tennessee’s most-visited Civil War battlefields, plus personal homes like the Lotz House that played their own role in the wartime efforts. The Battle of Franklin in 1864 was one of the bloodiest of the Civil War, with 30,000 Confederates arriving to the outskirts of Franklin on the morning of Nov. 30.
The Lotz House, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, sits at what’s often called “ground zero” of the Battle of Franklin. Standing inside will give you a front-row feel as to how the family of German immigrants endured being directly in the line of fire—they hid across the street in the Carter House—and how they managed to rebuild their home in the aftermath. Visits are only offered through guided tours or as part of one of the local walking tours, and photography isn’t allowed inside.
Across the street, the Carter House is an eponymous memorial to the family and the many heroes that emerged from the battle. During the war, the brick edifice was used as the federal command post while the Carter family took refuge in the cellar; visible evidence still lingers, including 1,000 bullet holes errantly scattered about, making it the most bullet-riddled building still standing from the Civil War.
The next stop on your Civil War tour of Franklin is Carnton, a former plantation built in 1826 by the McGavock family. By the Civil War, the plantation enslaved 44 people who worked the 700 acres; today, the property spans more than 1,400 acres. The Confederate Army of Tennessee charged the Federal lines at Franklin in what became one of the war’s bloodiest battles, larger even than Pickett’s Charge at Gettysburg. In less than five hours beneath the veil of darkness, 9,500 soldiers were killed, wounded, captured or went missing. Nearly 7,000 of those were Confederate soldiers.
Carnton quickly became the area’s largest field hospital, brimming with wounded and dying soldiers, many buried at what was then the McGavock family cemetery. Every November 30, the Battle of Franklin Trust hosts the Annual Illumination honors the 10,000 killed in the battle with a luminary for each, plus a reading of all the names.
The house remained in the McGavock family’s possession until 1911, when it was sold. In 1977, the house and ten acres were donated to the Carnton Association, and over the years it’s seen plenty of renovation and is now on the National Register of Historic Places.
Also part of Franklin’s Civil War story is Rippa Villa, which was built in 1855 just south in Spring Hill, and once considered one of the most prominent farms in Middle Tennessee. In 1864, the Greek Revival-style home was drawn into the Battle of Spring Hill, which came a day before the Battle of Franklin, as the strategic planning headquarters for Confederate generals. The Tennessee Campaign ticket gets you into the trio of Civil War sites—Carter House, Carnton and Rippa Villa—at a discounted rate.
What to know about visiting Franklin
Trying to decide the best time to visit Franklin is like choosing between bourbon and gin: an impossible task. Any month of the year will give you plenty to do, but I’m partial to the shoulder periods of August and May when crowds are low. If you love autumn, there’s no better place to soak up fall in Tennessee than in Franklin, and October and November, while busy, are undoubtedly lovely times to visit Franklin.
Then again, if you’re a Christmas fan, all of downtown Franklin transforms into a holiday wonderland from late-November through the new year.
Want to visit Franklin during a festival?
Here are a few of the city’s biggest annual events:
Are you looking to book a breakaway but are not sure where to go? We’ve got just the place, and that’s Madeira. Madeira is a stunning Portuguese island located in the Atlantic Ocean, known for its year-round mild climate, dramatic landscapes, and vibrant culture. It’s a destination where you can enjoy great food, stay in a luxurious hotel and not have to break the bank at the same time.
There is also a lot to do in Madeira, so depending on the type of holiday you would like, that will decide how you experience the island. If you’re after an adventure, you could book a walking holiday. If you would like to relax by the beach, there are plenty of hotels which offer sea views, or you could go inland and explore the unique landscape. There is something for everyone.
To give you some insight, we’ve put together a brief guide outlining three reasons why Madeira should be at the top of your list of must-visit destinations.
The food
A good place to start is the food. Madeira is known for its rich culinary scene, blending traditional Portuguese flavours with local island ingredients. From fresh seafood and grilled meats to tropical fruits and locally produced wines, the island offers something to satisfy every palate. If you’re a foodie, this is the place for you – you must try the espada com banana (scabbard fish with banana), bolo do caco (a traditional garlic flatbread), and a glass of sweet Madeira wine.
The many walking routes
We mentioned above that people visit Madeira and book a walking holiday. There is no surprise why, as when you visit, you’ll come across a plethora of hiking routes which you can enjoy. Each route has incredible views and will challenge you in various ways. If you are interested in hiking, a popular route is the one in the southwest of Madeira. Here you will discover Funchal, the capital of Madeira, and Ponta do Pargo, the westernmost point on the island. The best thing about going on a hike is that when you are finished, you’ve burnt plenty of calories, meaning you can eat guilt-free.
It’s a very safe destination
Feeling safe when going away on holiday is very important. The last thing you want is to be walking around your hotel, feeling uneasy or to explore the town and have to avoid unwanted attention. Madeira is known to be a very safe destination for tourists. The island has a low crime rate, and locals are welcoming and respectful toward visitors. The locals can really make a difference when going away, and that’s something Madeira excels at.
Madeira may not always be the first destination that comes to mind when planning a European getaway, but once you’ve been, you’ll be recommending it to everyone. Will you be booking a trip to Madeira, and if so, when are you planning on visiting? What are your reasons for booking a holiday in Madeira, and what type of holiday will you be booking? Let us know in the comment box below. We look forward to hearing from you.
When planning a family trip to Turkey, destinations like Istanbul or Cappadocia usually steal the spotlight. But if you’re looking for a unique, kid-friendly city full of culture, fun activities, and wide-open spaces, Ankara—Turkey’s capital—deserves a spot on your itinerary.
In just two days, Ankara offers a perfect blend of history, play, learning, and relaxation for families traveling with children. This complete 2-day itinerary will help you make the most of your time and create unforgettable family memories in Ankara, a city which, by the way, is HUGE!
Day 1: Discovering History and Exploring Ankara’s Outdoor Gems
Morning at Anıtkabir: A National Monument That Fascinates Kids
Start your Ankara adventure at Anıtkabir, the grand mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey. While a mausoleum might not sound child-friendly at first, Anıtkabir is surprisingly engaging for kids. The massive open spaces allow children to roam freely, while the ceremonial guard changing often grabs their attention with its precise, synchronized movements.
Inside the museum, interactive displays and multimedia exhibits tell the story of Atatürk’s life and the formation of modern Turkey in a way that even younger visitors can appreciate. After the tour, stroll through Peace Park—a beautifully landscaped area surrounding the monument where kids can run and parents can relax.
Midday Stroll and Snack on Tunalı Hilmi Street
After exploring Anıtkabir, head over to Tunalı Hilmi Street, one of Ankara’s most vibrant avenues. Here, you’ll find cozy cafes and bakeries where your family can take a well-deserved snack break. Grab some freshly baked simit (a sesame-crusted Turkish bagel), fresh fruit juices, or sweet Turkish pastries that children will love.
The atmosphere is lively, safe, and very family-friendly, with plenty of small parks nearby where kids can play.
Visit Kocatepe Mosque: Awe-Inspiring Architecture
Next, take a short ride to Kocatepe Mosque, Ankara’s largest and most iconic mosque. Even if your children aren’t usually interested in architecture, the mosque’s towering minarets, massive domes, and intricate designs will likely leave them wide-eyed. The large courtyard allows for relaxed exploration, and the peaceful ambiance offers a perfect moment of quiet after the busy morning.
Afternoon of Art and Play
CerModern: Modern Art That Engages Young Minds
In the afternoon, shift gears and visit CerModern, Ankara’s leading contemporary art center. Unlike many art galleries, CerModern often features interactive exhibits that engage children and encourage creativity. Kids can walk through colorful installations, participate in workshops, or simply enjoy the playful atmosphere.
Parents will appreciate the fresh, modern art while children discover that museums can be fun and hands-on.
Evening at Gençlik Park: Family Fun in the Heart of Ankara
Finish your first day at Gençlik Park, an expansive urban park packed with kid-friendly activities. Multiple playgrounds, mini amusement rides, and green spaces create a relaxed environment where kids can let loose. Enjoy a family ride on the mini train or paddle boats, grab some cotton candy, and watch the sunset over the park’s peaceful lake.
For dinner, nearby neighborhoods like Kızılay or Kavaklidere offer countless family-friendly Turkish restaurants serving pide, köfte, and kebabs—dishes almost every child enjoys.
Day 2: Nature, Science, and Fairy Tales
Morning at Atatürk Forest Farm and Zoo
Begin your second day at the Atatürk Forest Farm and Zoo (Atatürk Orman Çiftliği). This large complex offers something for every age: farm animals for younger kids, exotic animals at the small zoo, and an aquarium that captivates with colorful marine life.
Parents can explore the replica of Atatürk’s childhood home while kids enjoy watching cows, goats, and monkeys. Don’t forget to visit the organic market to grab fresh local honey, cheese, or produce for a tasty snack.
The wide-open spaces, tree-lined paths, and relaxed atmosphere make it perfect for a family outing.
Midday Break at Armada Shopping Mall
By lunchtime, head to Armada Shopping Mall for a comfortable break. Turkish shopping centers are very family-friendly and usually feature indoor playgrounds or game centers where kids can recharge while parents enjoy coffee or a proper meal.
Armada offers a wide range of dining options—from traditional Turkish fare to international choices—making it easy to find something for every family member.
Afternoon at Harikalar Diyarı: Wonderland for Kids
The highlight of your second day will surely be Harikalar Diyarı (Wonderland Park), one of the largest theme parks in Ankara. Giant fairy tale statues like Snow White, Pinocchio, and the Seven Dwarfs greet visitors throughout the park, creating a magical atmosphere for children.
With large playgrounds, wide walking paths, boat rentals, mini golf, and endless green spaces, this park offers hours of entertainment for kids of all ages. Parents can relax under shady trees while kids explore the themed zones, climb, ride, and play freely.
If you packed a picnic, this is the perfect place to spread out a blanket and enjoy a relaxing outdoor meal together.
End with Science at Feza Gürsey Science Center
Before wrapping up your Ankara trip, make one final stop at the Feza Gürsey Science Center, located close to Wonderland Park. This interactive science museum allows kids to get hands-on with fun scientific experiments and educational exhibits. From physics to optical illusions, children of all ages will enjoy learning while playing.
If you’re lucky, you may catch one of the science shows, where experiments are demonstrated live in a way that captures both children’s and adults’ imaginations.
Family Travel Tips for Ankara
Best times to visit: Spring and autumn offer pleasant weather for outdoor activities.
Getting around: Taxis, metro, and buses are efficient, but renting a car can be more convenient with kids. We did not rent one though.
Where to stay: Central areas like Çankaya, Kızılay, and Kavaklidere offer excellent family hotels.
Where to Stay in Ankara with Kids
Hilton Garden Inn: Comfortable, central, and good value for families.
Ankara: A Family-Friendly Destination Full of Surprises
Ankara might not be the first city that comes to mind for a family trip, but after two full days of fun, learning, and exploration, you’ll realize it’s a hidden gem. With its balance of culture, education, wide-open parks, and child-friendly attractions, Ankara offers an unforgettable experience for families visiting Turkey.
So pack your bags, grab the kids, and get ready for a surprisingly fun family adventure in Turkey’s capital city!
It’s no secret that Knoxville ranks high up on our list of must-visit destinations. Much of my family was born there, and I’m a proud graduate of University of Tennessee. But despite my extensive knowledge of East Tennessee’s largest city, the Knoxville arts scene is an ever-changing tapestry of color and innovation that keeps every trip fresh and exciting for even the most seasoned traveler.
If you’re planning a Knoxville weekend trip in the future, here’s everything you need to know about where to stay, eat, visit and get your art on.
Stay at Knoxville’s art hotel
Knoxville’s premier luxury hotel, the Tennessean, opened a few years back adjacent to World’s Fair Park. This hotel has long been a favorite of mine—it was my fourth stay here!—thanks to its well-appointed rooms and location just blocks off Market Square.
The 82 rooms have a distinct Tennessee design with carpeting meant to channel the flow of the Tennessee River and topographical maps hanging on the walls in all the rooms. Each of the floors are named after a river in Tennessee, and there’s even a special Pat Summitt Suite we got to tour on this Knoxville visit. A portion of proceeds from the booking of this suite are donated to the Women’s Basketball Hall of Fame, which we also visited on this trip.
If you know me, you know how much the late Lady Vols coach impacted my life, so seeing an entire guest suite dedicated to her memory was truly something special. I also love the Drawing Room restaurant, which serves breakfast, dinner and a unique-to-the-area tea service daily. Request a room that faces World’s Fair Park.
The floor-to-ceiling windows offer a unique perspective of Knoxville art with the Sunsphere, museum and World’s Fair Park murals all in view depending on your position in the hotel. Request a corner suite for the most epic views, though really you can’t go wrong with any of the Tennessean’s rooms, which are a luxuriously spacious 470 square feet in size at minimum.
If the Tennessean is not available, you’ve got several options in the downtown, including:
The Oliver
Cumberland House
Hilton Knoxville
Marriott Knoxville Downtown
The Maker Exchange
Within the hotel’s common area, which it shares with the adjoining Marriott Hotel, Maker Exchange debuted just last year and is a game-changer in terms of how spaces can incorporate experiential art. You can feel the masterful craftsmanship of Megan Lingerfelt and Curtis Glover in all corners of this hotel lobby and the art gallery display space that is branded as the Maker Exchange.
Local artist Robin Easter designed all the patterned murals that adorn the walls both inside and outside the hotel, and Lingerfelt and Glover painted them over a three-month period last year. They’re truly remarkable, and the paint job is such a high level of perfection, you may be fooled into thinking they’re wallpaper, but rest assured, this pair of highly sought-after muralists hand-painted every last line.
The oversized great room makes for an opulent and classy display venue for locally crafted paintings, textile and ceramics while providing the hotel with an additional point of interest. An expansive fireplace with seating area, an attached bar, and the Tavern restaurant that overlooks the World’s Fair Park make it hard to beat as a one-stop shop for an afternoon of leisure and artistic absorption.
There’s also original art by local makers hanging on the walls throughout the lobby level. See something you like? Everything is for sale. The art gallery, the Curio, which is open to the public and free to peruse, features rotating exhibitions like the final products from the students of Lingerfelt’s recent mural workshops.
The Tennessean’s restaurants and bars
Located on the second floor of the Tennessean, The Drawing Room has a speakeasy-style bar with dapper tuxedoed staff, classic cocktails and a French inspired selection of appetizers and dinner plates. If you’re looking for an elevated place to have a cocktail, this is your place—so long as you promise us you’ll try the signature smoked old fashioned.
An elegant option for breakfast, as well, the Drawing Room whips up all the classics of an American-style diner plus avocado toast, lox bagels and shrimp and grits for those of us that seek out an easy brunch menu.
Need a quick pick-me-up before a day of exploring Knoxville’s art scene? Perk Up at Maker Exchange features specialty coffee drinks made from local roastery Vienna Coffee Company and enjoy it in any of the pleasant vignettes strategically placed throughout the Tennessean’s lobby level.
New to the Tennessean’s menu of activities is the addition of e-bikes, which includes a Pedals and Prosecco e-Biking Experience. The first of its kind locally, the concierge offers fat tire e-bikes to guests for tooling around downtown Knoxville.
Sunsphere Park is also a perfect spot to have a picnic with some bubbly, so take a basket with you and set up shop along the water in World’s Fair Park.
Eat your way through Knoxville’s food scene
Any night out with friends will be served up with a little bit of flair and artistry. Seeking out food options in a college town of more than 40,000 students and countless alumni is always a challenge, not because of lack of options but so many delicious restaurants. Knoxville dishes out some of the finest examples of mindfully curated cuisine we’ve experienced in the South, and these places will give you a taste of that most ancient of craftsmanship: food.
Potchke
It seems like the only place my Knoxville friends go for breakfast or lunch anymore is Potchke, an elevated Jewish bakery with a flair for the cheeky comments, and I wanted to see what all the fuss was about. Potchke thrums with the energy of a well-made lunch consumed in a brightly lit room. Every dish on the menu has a vegan or gluten-free option, and there’s always an interesting variation of house-made seltzers or tonics to try as an accompaniment.
This restaurant is a must-stop for breakfast or brunch and just oozes freshness and spice.
Vida
Located on the ground floor of the thoughtfully remodeled Holsten Building, Vida is one of the hottest destinations for artistic dining and fancy drinks. With a Latin-influenced menu that anchors back to French cuisine, the options for food are a delightful mix of eclectic tapas plates.
Carrots, fennel and ricotta are a popular starter as are the corn croquettes and empanadas; crab cakes, scallops or the pork belly are all wise choices for sharable dishes. The restaurant is also centered around a bar that shakes out a healthy selection of alcohol-forward drinks so it’s also a good spot for a special date or occasion. Be sure and take a peek in the Vault, a speakeasy-like subterranean bar, downstairs before you go.
Kaizen
When we travel, Asian cuisine is always top of our list, and Knoxville restaurants feature several options, our latest favorite of which is Kaizen, an izakaya-inspired Japanese-style pub serving up tapas-style small plates like pork bao buns, tamari-glazes potatoes and hot-and-sour duck noodles. The restaurant also stocks a deep well of whiskey, both Japanese and American varieties.
Simpl.
Situated in South Knoxville (aka SoKno) along one of the most vibrant and ever-changing street art neighborhoods, Simpl. is sandwiched between a couple of breweries and along a popular bicycle route that skirts the Tennessee River. An airy interior with fairly limited seating, it’s best to either arrive early or make reservations for this seasonally driven and Mexican-inspired restaurant.
Sleepy weekend breakfast at this Sevier Avenue joint is popular, and we quickly learned why. The brunch burgers with tomato jam and a sunny egg are fan favorites as is the extensive breakfast cocktail menu.
Other Knoxville restaurants we love:
J.C. Holdway
KOYO
A Dopo
Sweet P’s BBQ
Curious Dog
Brother Wolf
Osteria Stella
The Kennedy
Stock & Barrel
Lilou Brasserie
The French Market Creperie
Taste the art of brewing at these Knoxville breweries
One way Knoxville continues to up the ante is with its brewery scene, which is always booming and ever-growing. We’re constantly trying out new spots every time we visit Knoxville, and here are a few of our most recent favorites.
XUL
In the heart of the Fourth & Gill neighborhood just beyond the Old City, XUL is a classic indoor-outdoor space that smells like yeasty bread from the beer-brewing process and immediately sucked us in. With an IPA-, hazy- and sour-forward menu, their brand of fermented beverages are experimental and really, really good. Bonus: There are a significant number of gluten-free beers on tap, a rarity in the brewing world.
The vibe of the taproom—a former 1960’s car showroom—is low-key lounge and with a rotating cast of food trucks parked outside, it’s easy to make an afternoon of visit. Geezers Brewing is in the same development, and Crafty Bastard just a few blocks away.
Yee-Haw
We’ve been fans of this Johnson City-based brewery since it opened in 2015, and it’s been fun to watch it grow into new locations in Nashville and now Knoxville. The expansive indoor-outdoor space is outfitted with turfed areas, big screens for sporting events and game day viewing, booths inside and a Prince’s Hot Chicken Shack outpost for sustenance.
Pretentious Craft Co.
Another long-time favorite brewing company of ours, Pretentious epitomizes Knoxville’s art scene as being possibly the only place in the world where you can drink beer brewed on site from a glass hand-blown just next door, where you can also watch the process from start to finish.
Other Knoxville breweries we love:
Printshop Beer Co.
Crafty Bastard Brewery
Schulz Brau Brewing Company
Abridged Beer Co.
Hi-Wire Brewing Taproom
Alliance Brewing Company
Last Days of Autumn Brewing
Beer not your vibe? Right in the middle of bustling Jackson Avenue, PostModern Spirits is a craft distillery focusing on spirits like gin that it weaves into its many bar offerings.
Also nearby, Tern Club offers a wide range of rum- and mezcal-forward drinks artfully served up in a very tiki bar-style atmosphere.
Explore Knoxville museums and architecture
Knoxville’s most iconic landmark, the Sunsphere—a 26-story tower with 24-karat-gold glass panes—was built for the 1982 World’s Fair and is undoubtedly the most recognizable building in the city if not the state. For $5, you can now take an elevator to the observation deck during normal business hours on Tuesday through Sunday and see Knoxville from a new perspective.
Spring and summer are fun seasons to visit Knoxville as there seems to be a festival every weekend. Late April always brings the Dogwood Arts Festival, which has been around since 1961, and completely overtakes World’s Fair Park with fine art vendors, live music, entertainment, children’s activities, and food and beverage offerings galore. Early June is our dog Ella’s favorite event, Bike Boat Brew & Bark, alongside the Tennessee River.
Directly across World’s Fair Park from the Tennessean and the Sunsphere, Knoxville Museum of Art offers free admission daily and access to a collection spanning more than 1500 objects. A diverse array of art—paper, paintings, mixed media works, sculpture—the art museum’s primary focus is on mid-19th century to the present. The works are from a mix of regional names and international contemporary artists.
Shop these Knoxville arts mainstays
The south end of Gay Street where it intersects Jackson Avenue is where you’ll find some of Knoxville’s boutiques and artist shops. New to the area last summer is Paris Woodhull Illustrations, the brick and mortar of one of our favorite Knoxville artists who not only paints block-long murals but also turns her own designs into very Instagrammable T-shirts, dish towels, stickers and much, much more.
A few doors down, Jacks of Knoxville is a plant shop, cafe and home goods store all rolled into one. Across the street, Addison’s is a bi-level bookstore specializing in rare and old books with more contemporary pre-owned literature in the basement.
Down in the Old City, Rala—which stands for “regional and local artisans”—has been a favorite spot of mine ever since it opened. Directly across from Dogwood Arts Gallery, the boutique stocks an incredibly well-curated collection of goods made by local artists, from graphic Tees to wall art, posters to jewelry. If wearable art is more your forte, Honeymouth makes dopamine-rich leather goods.
See Knoxville’s urban art culture up close
If you make your base at Market Square for the afternoon, you’ll be able to easily walk to the many Knoxville murals and see a variety of urban art while you’re at it.
Krutch Park, for example, boasts more than a dozen sculptures—including our favorite, a dog fixated on a ball—throughout its acre domain, as well as water features and a pair of women’s suffrage monuments.
No matter the time of year you’re visiting Knoxville, there is bound to be something going on within Market Square’s perimeter, whether free jazz in the summer or the uber-cool Chalk Walk Knoxville held each April. We caught the tail end of the chalk paintings just before the spring rain washed them away.
Not even a block away toward Gay Street, you’ll find yourself in Strong Alley, the entrance of which is a rotating seasonal mural by Megan Lingerfelt, a fun whimsical painting by Paris Woodhull, a handful of other urban art vignettes. At the other end is, of course, a Dolly Parton mural.
If you dig a grittier art scene, SoKno is where you’ll find much of Knoxville’s graffiti, especially if you detour from Sevier Avenue onto Island Home where the walls are fortified with urban art. Also in South Knoxville is Paris Woodhull’s “Victoria” mural on the side of Printshop Beer Co. I may be a tad bit biased—our nonprofit spearheaded this mural as part of our Walls for Women project—but I think it’s the best art and beer in the city!
Peruse the many Knoxville art galleries
The Knoxville arts would be nothing without its richly diverse community of artists, patrons, styles and cultural institutions. A great time to visit Knoxville is on First Friday when many of the shops and art galleries along Gay Street, Market Square and the Old City have extended hours, as well as live music and food vendors.
Located in a nationally historic building built in 1890 in Emory Place, Pivot Point Gallery is a two-story art gallery highlighting the work of local artists, regional artists and national artists. Personally, I loved this mix of style and background; it made for an incredibly eclectic body of work. Next door, Lilienthal Gallery brings avant-garde international exhibitions to the Maker City. While we were there, this upscale Knoxville gallery housed the stunning three-dimensional work of female Israeli artists.
Be sure and check out these Knoxville galleries, too:
The Art Market
The Emporium
UT Downtown Gallery
Arrowmont Gallery
RED Gallery
Dogwood Arts Gallery
Have you been to the Maker City? Were you just as impressed by the Knoxville art scene as we were?
I don’t know what I expected Murray to be like, but a lake community with a college campus at its center and a thriving art scene anchoring it all was not it. A weekend in Murray, Kentucky combined so many different elements of what I look for in a three-day getaway: the outdoors, the public art and … free-roaming bison? Read on to explore why we loved Murray and the Land Between the Lakes.
This project was a partnership with the Murray, KY Convention & Visitors Bureau. All opinions are our own.
Kentucky is widely known for horse racing and bourbon, but interestingly Murray’s big selling points don’t have much to do with either of those—that said, the local university’s mascot is a much-beloved thoroughbred. Racer One, as he’s called, runs a celebratory lap around the field every time the football team scores a touchdown.
Instead, Murray’s superpower as a destination is its access to the outdoors and the Land Between The Lakes National Recreation area, a massive 170,000-acre peninsula bookended by the Kentucky Lake and Lake Barkley, both created by TVA in the 1940s to boost our nation’s electrical supply and create new navigable waterways. Its position near the borders of five states—Kentucky, Tennessee, Arkansas, Indiana and Missouri—and central location to so many Southern cities make it a great weekend destination. It’s less than three hours by car from Memphis, less than two hours from Nashville and under an hour from Paducah.
Looking to take a Kentucky vacation soon? Here’s why you need to plan a weekend in Murray.
Day 1 in Murray, Kentucky
With the Kentucky town just a three-hour drive from our Tennessee home, we arrived mid-morning and were ready to kickstart our weekend in Murray with a bite to eat. As luck would have it, two of our closest friends, Devry and Danny, happen to be from Murray and were more than willing to come up for a weekend in their hometown to make sure we got the full experience.
Have lunch at Hop Hound Brew Pub
To find the pulse of a town, we usually start with the local brewery or gastropub. In Murray, that’s Hop Hound Brew Pub, housed in a building that dates back to 1929 and specializes in flatbreads, burgers, quesadillas stuffed with fillings and street tacos. The pub also has a full bar and craft beer from around the region on tap.
Walk around the Murray State campus
Just a mile from the popular Murray pub is the town’s university, which adds 10,000 students to the population during the school year. Murray State spans an interesting mix of Gothic and brutalist-style buildings; as low-key architecture geeks, we drove multiple loops around the campus marveling at the different styles like the Lovett Auditorium, which is one of the four original structures still standing from 1926 and whose steps host the All Campus Sing each spring.
One of the most visited Murray State sites is the Shoe Tree, which is exactly what it sounds like: a monument comprising the shoes of alumni. This tradition dates back to the 1960s when students who had found their “sole mates” (partner or spouse) during their time at Murray State started nailing up shoes to cement their love; many of the kicks note their owner’s wedding date, and some alums even return with baby shoes once they’ve had a child.
On the west side of the Murray State quad across from the Shoe Tree, you’ll find a statue of Rainey T. Wells, the founder and former president of the university. The legend among Murray State students goes that if you rub his diploma, you’ll pass your finals. If you want to see the historic buildings in Murray, you can take a lap around the campus, making sure to drive by Pogue Library and down the photo-worthy Olive Boulevard, as well as Main Street and 9th and 10th streets.
Eat dinner on the Murray State campus
When it’s time to eat again, Murray State has a couple restaurants walkable from campus like the Willow Bistro, with its Greek-influenced menu, which is open for lunch every weekday with extended hours for dinner on Thursday, Friday and Saturday. There’s also Stephano’s Trattoria, a fine-dining Italian restaurant with pastas, sharable plates, and filling entrees like ribeye and grouper. After dinner, walk next door for a cocktail at Tap 216, an iconic Murray neighborhood bar that has trivia every Tuesday and karaoke on Thursdays.
Have dessert at the famed Murray Dairy Queen
Before I’d ever visited Murray, I knew of it’s Dairy Queen. It’s not just a regular Dairy Queen, but one steeped in nostalgia for many of its residents who have been going here every summer since it opened in 1949. Today, it’s only open from March through October, and the tradition still holds: Carhops come and take your order from your parking space.
Day 2 in Murray, Kentucky
My favorite thing to do in any new town is find the local coffee shop and enjoy an iced latte among the regulars. And Shaffer Coffee Co. is the coffee shop in Murray. Even on a Saturday morning in the heat of summer, the place was humming with a mix of students and those like us just passing through. We met up with Danny and Devry for cinnamon rolls and coffee before moseying downtown to truly start our day.
Morning at the Downtown Farmers Market
On Saturday mornings in Murray, the Downtown Farmers Market is where all the action happens. This market pulls farmers and vendors from a three-hour radius every weekend from May through October, and the offerings are legit. Pickles, honey, meats, cheeses, heirloom tomatoes, and other farm-fresh produce mingle with the goods from makers like cutting boards, jewelry and pottery. Some weeks feature a band or yoga for all, and the market even has a Kids’ Club where the little ones get their own market money to spend.
Art class at Murray Art Guild
After the farmers market, we were in for a real treat: a clay class at Murray Art Guild. This nonprofit organization has been holding court in Murray for more than 55 years and is in a semi-temporary space on the courthouse square as their permanent dream facility gets built out. But despite having to downsize the studio in the meantime, it still brims with the creations by painters, potters, jewelers, fiber artists and other makers who sell their wares in the front store portion of the studio.
The back is reserved for the actual making, with looms and pottery implements. We were lucky enough to get in on an Empty Bowl class where we sculpted bowls out of clay then stamped them to be sold at the annual Fall Empty Bowls fundraiser. As part of the national Empty Bowls Project designed to combat hunger, the guild generously facilitates this bowl-making through group activities throughout the spring and summer in preparation to be given away with soup at the fall fundraiser.
The guild hosts more than just bowl-making, though. Classes and workshops include figure-drawing, watercolor, weaving, pet portraits, art journaling and plenty of messy activities for kids.
Lunch at Dumplin’s of Murray
With a menu jam packed with sandwiches, salads, burgers and vegan options, Dumplin’s of Murray is a long-time staple of the community that also dishes out a multitude of desserts and, of course, dumplings. This restaurant is also a great option for brunch, as it serves up mimosas, beer and mixed drinks every day but Sunday when it’s closed entirely. There are some cute boutiques like The Place in the same retail development for shopping after you’re done.
Shopping and art in downtown Murray
After lunch, it’s back to the square for more art and shopping. Downtown Murray has a colorful art alley and more than a half-dozen murals scattered throughout the streets flanking the courthouse square; much of the original art was created by Kentucky artist Elias Reynolds. Park on the square, then explore its arteries by foot; you’ll find plenty of hidden art, as well as local boutiques and shops worth popping into.
Without a doubt, my favorite discovery in Murray was the adorable independent bookstore Bolin Books, which sells a mix of used books and new releases. Whitney and Wesley Bolin opened downtown Murray’s independent bookstore in 2020 following the death of Wesley’s father, James Duane Bolin, an author, historian and educator at the local university. It had always been his dream to own a bowtie and books business, and after he passed, the husband-wife team moved forward with their plans of opening a bookstore.
Teeming with books across genres, including a well-stocked children’s room in the back, Bolin is one of those places you simply can’t leave empty-handed. The Bolins completely transformed this downtown historic building into a multi-room bookstore, laid out by genre, with plans to expand into the upstairs space eventually. As an avid reader, I was blown away by how comprehensive the book offerings are and wish every town were so lucky to have a shop full of heart like this one.
Dinner at Jasmine Thai Cuisine & Sushi Bar
Living in rural Tennessee, we miss having an abundance of Asian fusion cuisine at our disposal, so if there’s a good Thai and sushi restaurant in a town we’re visiting, 10 times out of 10 we are dining there. Jasmine serves up a novel-length menu of Japanese food and Thai favorites like fried rice, sushi rolls, stir fry platters and hibachi-cooked steaks. The cocktails, too, were on point with the ginger gin fizz my favorite.
A stroll through Doran Arboretum
Located on the 40-acre Pullen Farm, Doran Arboretum is an educational display garden run by Murray State University that is open to the public for free daily until 7pm, a great spot for a post-dinner walk if you’re dining on the earlier side. It was truly one of my favorite places in Murray with its butterfly gardens, walking paths and 0.8-mile track. Traveling with kids who need to burn off energy? Take them to the arboretum. Simply in need of a nature break? Go to the arboretum. It’s a magical little oasis in the heart of an oft-bustling college town.
Day 3 in Murray, Kentucky
Your final day of your weekend in Murray is dedicated to the outdoors, weather permitting. Many restaurants and coffee shops in Murray are closed on Sundays, but Murray Donuts is open and the perfect place to grab a maple bacon donut and a coffee and head east into the wilderness. Don’t like donuts? First, you’re crazy, and second, Murray Donuts also has pastries, breakfast sandwiches and more.
Spend the day on Kentucky Lake
Murray’s outdoors scene is unmatched: It’s the largest city along Kentucky Lake, which has over 2,000 miles of shoreline alone, but also connects to the Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area, a veritable wonderland of hiking, hunting, horseback riding and off-road riding opportunities. This waterway links to the Gulf of Mexico along the Great Loop, a series of interconnected rivers, dams, locks and lakes that allow boaters to explore vast portions of the southeastern United States, many of which are protected wetlands and watersheds.
Devry and Danny were kind enough to invite us out on a boat with their friends Frank and Debbie, and we had a glorious afternoon exploring all the nooks and crannies of Kentucky Lake, including the Rock Quarry, the party cove with rocks for jumping if you’re brave enough to do so. Many of the marinas like Kentucky Dam Marina rent out pontoon, fishing and ski boats, as well as paddleboards and kayaks.
If you’re the type who likes to travel with your horses, the Wranglers Camp has more than 200 sites equipped for large trailers and RVs, many with electrical hookups. The 100 miles of pristine horseback trails is open year-round, with services like blacksmithing and farriers available during the warmer months.
For the OHV enthusiasts among us, of which my husband is one, the Turkey Bay OHV Area is a mecca for off-roading. Jeeps, side-by-sides, four-wheelers and motorcycles have the ability to camp and ride on over 100 miles of trails that skirt the lake, dive deep into the woods and otherwise snake all through this gorgeous section of the LBL. If you get there early and snag a spot, it’s even possible to set up camp right on the shores of the lake.
Drive through the Elk & Bison Prairie
After you’re done with your lake day in Murray, venture on over to the Golden Pond Planetarium & Observatory for some A/C and a show among the stars. Open seven days a week from 10am to 5pm, the planetarium boasts live presentations that allow visitors to learn about all things space—and even see the constellations via the 360-degree, 40-foot domed theater that is outfitted with surround sound. You can also visit the Elk & Bison Prairie National Wildlife Sanctuary, a 700-acre piece of land that allows these majestic creatures to roam freely within its boundaries just next door.
A great place to take a car full of children to ogle at wildlife, the loop road that runs through the sanctuary is $5 for entrance and has a cash/credit card machine at the gate. The elk are best viewed at dusk during the warmer months.
Hike Eggner’s Ferry Bridge and Hematite Lake
If you’re up for a stroll, tackle the 3.5-mile walk over Eggner’s Ferry Bridge, a modern-looking and soaring structure that crosses the lake. It was originally built in 1932 and later replaced after a cargo ship accident in 2012. The bridge provides a walkway and bike path for runners and cyclists who want to enjoy the views across Kentucky Lake. Park at the Lakeside Trailhead if you’re on the western side of the span; if you’re in the east, stop at Fenton Campground and begin your journey there along the Central Hardwoods Scenic Trail, 11 miles of compacted stone or paved road perfect for mountain or gravel bikes.
Hematite Lake, a favorite spot for scenic photography or birdwatching, is an easy 2.5-mile hike around the 87-acre body of water and is filled with remnants from when it was mined for the iron ore hematite. Nearby is the Woodlands Nature Station that has a mini-zoo of locally rescued animals that couldn’t survive in the wild; it now serves as educational tools for youth groups and adults traveling through the region (entrance fee is $5). Honkey Lake is also very close to the nature station with 4.5 miles of hiking and access for light fishing boats and kayaks or SUPs.
Where to stay in Murray, Kentucky
Because Murray is a college town, there are numerous affordable hotels like a Hampton Inn and Holiday Inn Express that border the campus. We stayed in the SpringHill Suites, a Marriott property with very large family rooms that was perfect for how much we like to spread out when we’re traveling. While on the lake, we also stopped by Kentucky Lake Glamping, which has lakefront Airstream trailers, geodesic domes, and tiny cabins that would be very cool to rent if you wanted to stay outside of town and really take advantage of the outdoors.
If you love camping in Kentucky, Land Between the Lakes has many sites dispersed across the peninsula. Hillman Ferry has 368 individual campsites with six rustic cabins, access to a 59-mile mountain biking trail and an archery range, boat launches, showers and laundry facilities. Piney Campground has 384 sites, nine cabins for rent and is close to the Fort Henry Trail System, an interconnected 30-mile set of deep forest trails for both hikers and mountain bikes. Energy Lake Campground, a 35-site destination that offers 33 with electrical hookups, also has 13 primitive cabins with a beautiful beach swimming area.
If you’re not the camping type but still enjoy exploration of the outdoors, the region offers hundreds of options, from privately-run lake resorts, hotels and short-term rentals on Airbnb and VRBO.
For more tips on what to do in Murray, check out the local tourism site, or download our one-page itinerary if you need tips on the go.
As a native Tennessean, there was one thing that was always on my bucket list and that was to see the synchronous fireflies in the Smokies. I also just assumed I’d never be able to get there because it’s a highly competitive lottery process through the National Park Service, and to be honest, I never bothered trying.
And then a few years ago, as it turned out I was already going to be in Gatlinburg that very week, so I threw my name in the hat and voila, I was chosen!
But even after I got the official email, I had a lot of questions leading up to the actual experience, and if you’re planning to go, I’m sure you do, as well. I’ll try to tackle them below.
Note: The 2025 firefly lottery is only open from May 2 to 5. This year’s firefly viewing is May 29 to June 5. This post was last updated in May 2025.
The Smoky Mountain firefly lottery process
The synchronous fireflies (Photinus carolinus) are one of at least 19 species of fireflies that live in the Smokies, but what makes them so special is they’re one of just a few species in the world known to synchronize their flash patterns. This only happens a couple weeks every year in May or June during their reproductive period, so the firefly lottery process isn’t ever opened until mid-spring once those dates are known.
Every year, the national Park system announces the lottery dates in April. This year, they open up today (April 26) and close at 11:59pm EST on Monday (April 29). You have to put a credit card down, and you’ll be charged $1 for an application fee by Recreation.gov.
In mid-May, all lottery applicants will be notified if their application was successful or unsuccessful. If you’re picked, you’ll be assigned a day to see the fireflies during the window of May 29 to June 5.
If you’re selected, the same card will be automatically charged $24 for a parking pass. This fee is per car and helps cover the cost of viewing supplies and staff needed to manage the viewing at Elkmont Campground. The ticket also includes a unique QR code you’ll have to scan to be admitted to the campground.
Although I was a lucky recipient of a lottery pass, the rest of my family—no fewer than six members—applied for the lottery, and none of them were chosen. A total of 1120 car reservations is distributed for the eight-day event, which amounts to just 140 per day, and each vehicle is supposed to have a maximum occupancy of seven people (more on that below).
While you can find synchronous fireflies in other parks of Great Smoky Mountain National Park—and even in other neighboring towns like Oak Ridge—Elkmont Campground is one of the only organized viewings in an area where they’re known to congregate. To minimize the impact to the environment and maximize the experience for those lucky enough to have it, the National Park Service limits these numbers.
During this eight-day managed period, Little River and Jakes Creek Trailheads are closed at night to all but permitted vehicles who get a lottery ticket, as well as foot traffic from registered campers in Elkmont Campground.
Parking passes are not transferable—you’ll have to present a matching ID to the ticket name to be admitted—so please only enter the lottery if you know you’ll be able to attend then as it’s a coveted ticket. Each parking pass is valid only for your assigned date. You can find out more information about synchronous fireflies in the Smokies here.
The firefly experience
We had no idea what to expect or when to get there because the details we received before the synchronous fireflies event were a little bit vague. There were also eight of us, and my lottery tickets specifically said for a car of seven. I was really hoping that Charlotte, who was four at the time, wouldn’t count as a full human, and to be honest, they did not even look in our car so it was a lot of worrying for naught.
You’ll drive to the intersection near the Elkmont Campground Kiosk, and a parking attendant will guide you to your space. Parking is the Jakes Creek Trailhead Parking lot, the Appalachian Clubhouse Parking lot and along the exit roadway. Attendees must always stay on designated trails or paved surfaces.
You have to arrive at the Elkmont viewing area between 6 and 8pm, and no one is allowed in past 8:15pm. You also can’t come back in if you leave. There are portable toilets, but alcohol is not allowed. Bring snacks and water, though.
This is a dark-sky kind of event, and any light emanating from any source (a headlamp, flashlight, phone) can interfere, not to mention disrupt the fireflies’ behavior. Great Smoky Mountain National Park encourages those attending to bring their own low-powered red lighting, and the parking attendant will also give you these red-light bags to cover your phones with.
The one big thing I’ll warn you about seeing the synchronous fireflies is this is a late-night experience. Sunset in the Smokies in June is close to 9pm, and it doesn’t get really dark until an hour past that.
We arrived around 6pm and left at 10pm, and the fireflies were just starting to come out in full force. Take camping chairs because it’s a lot of sitting around, sleep in that morning and plan on staying late.
Where to stay to see the smoky mountain fireflies
There are so many hotels, motels, inns and rental houses throughout Pigeon Forge, Sevierville and Gatlinburg. We were there for a family reunion, so I had rented a 13-bedroom house in downtown Gatlinburg right off of Cherokee Orchard. It took us about 30 minutes to get to the firefly site.
For the Smokies, I recommend looking for a vacation rental via VRBO as it seems to have better inventory than Airbnb. And for the fireflies, specifically, the closer you can get to the Elkmont Campground, the shorter your drive will be. Here are a few contenders:
If you’re going for a longer trip to see Dollywood, which I highly recommend, or do other Smoky Mountains recreation, there are some cool hotels worth looking into like the Wayback Hotel, which would be my pick for adult couples traveling without kids, or Dollywood’s DreamMore Resort or Margaritaville at the Island.
Other questions about the synchronous fireflies in the Smokies
How do you photograph the synchronous fireflies?
Even taking our Canon camera and a tripod, it was extremely hard getting photos of the synchronous fireflies, particularly since we didn’t stay until super late. If you’re just working with an iPhone, I suggest taking a phone tripod like this one and setting your phone on long exposure, though also know your phone will have to be in the red transparent bag. And go in realizing that your photos are likely not going to turn out like the real thing, so this might be one of those things you just experience and commit to memory instead.
What age is good for synchronous fireflies?
There’s a lot of sitting around and waiting, so this isn’t a great activity for super little ones. Charlotte and her cousin Mason, who was six years old at the time, got a little bit restless waiting—and we didn’t even stay until the peak firefly event either. But they loved the lead up to it in which we scampered around the rocks of the Little River.
Is it worth traveling to see the fireflies?
As many of us experienced with the solar eclipse of 2017 and then again of 2024, mother nature is just plain awesome. If you can see a natural phenomenon like this, take the opportunity.
Is this event accessible to those in wheelchairs?
There are a few ADA parking passes available each day, but the terrain can be very uneven and rough, so this event is a tough one for those with mobility challenges.
What else should I visit while I’m in the Smoky Mountains?
Glad you asked! I have plenty of guides to keep you in the mountains for a week or longer:
Hey everyone. In light of the Coronavirus pandemic, it almost feels silly to update you with what’s going on in my life. I’ll try to keep this light. I hope you are staying safe, healthy, and sane in these difficult times.
Sorry I haven’t written a recap since, oh, December. Grad school has been intense — I’m taking 15 credits right now, so it’s been tough to focus on anything but school. The good news? I’m done in June!
This winter, I’ve mostly stayed put in Ann Arbor. That being said, I did take two trips out west — Park City, Utah, to ski, and Calfornia to see friends.
The amazing City Lights Bookstore in San Francisco, where I finally picked up Little Women
Where I’ve been:
Park City, Utah (7 days)
Traverse City, Michigan (3 days)
San Francisco, CA (6 days)
LA (3 days)
Ann Arbor, Michigan (the rest of the time)
Highs:
Skiing in Park City. Over the holidays, my family and I spent a week skiing in Park City, Utah. It was delightful. I felt very fortunate to be able to ski and to take a much-needed break from grad school.
Writing a historical fiction novel. After many false starts writing books (by which I mean I started and quit writing at least ten), I think I have found my genre — historical fiction! I’m 80 pages into my novel and it’s been so much fun to research and write. One thing that helped immensely was The Artist’s Way, a book that leads you through a 12-step creative recovery course. I recommend it to everyone, unconditionally.
Spending spring break in California. As I’ve mentioned on this blog many, many times, San Francisco is my favorite city. So it was wonderful to spend five days there catching up with friends and scoping out potential neighborhoods (P.S. I’m very into Richmond and the Sunset). Though the city has changed a lot in the past 10 years, it’s still where I see myself after graduation. (And if you know anyone hiring for UX design, I would be so grateful for an intro.)
Lows:
Coronavirus. This pandemic feels so surreal and is difficult for so many reasons. I’m trying to do the socially responsible thing by staying home and washing my hands frequently. I’m trying to stay positive and not panic. I’m using this opportunity to finish my novel, read a ton, and re-learn piano. That being said, I’m very worried about people in my life who are at risk, as well as the general state of the world right now.
Michigan winter. Honestly, it sucks to live in a place where it hurts to walk outside six months out of the year. It’s just too damn cold here. Thankfully, spring seems to be right around the corner.
Saying goodbye to Cape Town. I never announced this, but last month I got a two-month internship in Cape Town, South Africa in May and June. I was SO excited about it. But yesterday, I got the news that the internship was canceled. It’s a huge bummer but pales in comparison to what other people are going through — so I’m trying to not feel sorry for myself.
My blog traffic took a huge hit in November due to a Google update. Traffic is now taking an even bigger hit due to the coronavirus. Dips in my income like this make me grateful blogging is only a side-gig — I’m really feeling for all bloggers and people who work in the travel industry right now.
February traffic: 47,375 page views
September blogging income – $812.25
Advertising – $693.36
Affiliate income (Amazon) – $61.78
Affiliate income (not Amazon): $57.11
Ebook sales: $0.00
Note that this is my blogging income before deductions or expenses.
Favorite read
The Forgotten Soldier by Guy Sajer – This book won’t be for everyone, but I really enjoyed it. This memoir follows the journey of Guy, a 16-year old French boy who is drafted into the German army in WWII. Though the book has a lot of violence, I really enjoyed Sajer’s introspection on becoming a soldier and what it’s like living in wartime. He is an excellent writer, and writes very poetically about many subjects: “Peace has brought me many pleasures, but nothing as powerful as that passion for survival in wartime, that faith in love, and that sense of absolutes. It often strikes me with horror that peace is really extremely monotonous. During the terrible moments of war one longs for peace with a passion that is painful to bear. But in peacetime one should never, even for an instant, long for war!”
Up next:
Nothing, I guess? I was supposed to go to my friend’s 30th birthday party in Baja, Mexico, in April, but it looks like that won’t be happening. Graduation is also canceled.
How is your winter going? How are you handling/embracing this crazy time?Book recommendations EXTREMELY welcome.
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