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  • Thames Path National Trail – Henley to Kingston Days 9-12

    Thames Path National Trail – Henley to Kingston Days 9-12


    From Henley to Kingston the Thames Path National Trail offers a blend of rural to urban landscapes, as the river flows steadily towards the outskirts of London. You’ll pass the prosperous riverside towns of Henley and Marlow, known for their rowing traditions and ornate Edwardian boathouses.

    This is the Thames as depicted in 19th century literary classics such as “Three Men in a Boat” and “The Wind in the Willows”. As the railways developed westwards from the 1850s, this stretch of the Thames came within the reach of Londoners for day trips, when regattas and rowing boats were all the rage.

    Thames Path at Marlow Bridge © Heatheronhertravels.com

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    Days 9-12 – Henley to Kingston

    Rather than walking the whole of the Thames Path in one go, we chose to break this long distance trail into sections of one or two days. Walking with my sister, it took us a year to complete, snatching a couple of days walking whenever we could.

    The whole trail takes 15 days, but to make it more manageable I’ve decided to break it into four separate articles, each covering 3-4 days of the Thames Path walk.

    And you can read about our final day here:

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – Kingston to Woolwich – Days 13-15

    This section of four day’s walking could easily be managed over a long weekend. Alternatively you could just pick one of the legs for a day’s walk – our favourites were Day 10 Marlow to Windsor or Day 12 Chertsey to Kingston.

    While we walked from the Source towards London, you can walk any of these stages in either direction.

    Henley Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Henley on the Thames Path National Trail

    Essential planning for Days 9-12 – Henley to Kingston

    If you are walking sections 9-12 of the Thames Trail over a 4 day period, here are the planning essentials.

    Book the train to Henley for the start of the walk – it can be reached on the GWR line or the Elizabeth line from London, changing at Twyford. We recommend Trainline for easy rail bookings.

    Book the train from Kingston at the end of Day 12 – there are direct trains to London Waterloo. We recommend Trainline for easy rail bookings.

    Guidebook – buy the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide – this is the one we used and found it excellent for walking in either direction. While a guidebook is not essential, we enjoyed using this one as it added additional information and context to our walk.

    I’ll be publishing further articles in this Thames Path series very soon. In the meantime, if you have questions about our walk on the Thames Path National Trail, feel free to email me at heather(at)heatheronhertravels(dot)com

    Day 9 – Henley to Marlow

    This is an attractive stretch of the Thames Path, passing pretty villages and scenic riverside spots. However, with Temple foot bridge closed, it required some frustrating detours away from the river, walking along a busy road.

    Before setting off, we recommend checking whether the Temple foot bridge has re-opened and be alert for detour signs.

    Temple Island Henley Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Temple Island Henley Thames Path National Trail

    Leaving Henley behind

    Leaving the attractive town of Henley behind, the Thames Path crosses the bridge to the south bank. Just beyond the bridge you’ll pass Britain’s oldest rowing club, The Leander Club, which is now a hotel.

    A paved path runs through well maintained water meadows beside the river. It’s on these grassy lawns that the marquees will be pitched during the Henley Royal Regatta, which is held each July. The pretty classical pavilion on Temple Island is used as a marker during the famous regatta.

    As the river curves at Remenham, the path continues to hug the bank until you reach Hambledon lock, where races start during the Henley Regatta.

    Remenham Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Remenham on the Thames Path National Trail

    Here it’s possible to cross the river on top of the weir to reach Hambledon Marina. The benches at Hambledon Lock made a pleasant place to stop for our picnic lunch.

    Hambleden Marina Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Hambleden Marina Thames Path National Trail

    Warning – diversions!

    At this point you should be aware that the Temple foot bridge at Temple Lock is closed for survey and repairs. In October 2024 when we visited, the sign said it had been closed since May 2024, so there did not seem to be any urgency to reopen. This leaves you with a couple of detour possibilities:

    Temple Mill Lock Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Temple Mill Lock Thames Path National Trail

    Option 1 (recommended) – south bank via Hurley and Bisham

    Do not cross the Hambledon Weir, but stay on the south bank of the Thames until the village of Aston.

    Here the path turns away from the river along ferry lane, towards the Flower Pot Hotel. It was once used by boatmen manning the ferry that provided a river crossing at this point.

    The path now crosses the fields close to Culham Court, then returns to the river with a view of the 13th century Medmenham Abbey on the opposite bank.

    Continue through a wooded area of riverbank until you reach an area of mobile homes overlooking the river, part of Hurley Riverside Park.

    Thames Path at Hurley Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Thames Path at Hurley

    At Hurley Lock the river divides among a group of small islands. A campsite and summer tearoom are located on one of them, reached by a wooden bridge.

    It’s worth taking the lane into Hurley Village, to look at the Saxon church of St Mary the Virgin. This was originally the chapel of a Benedictine Priory, the remains of which are now private houses.

    Hurley is a good place to stop for lunch as there are a couple of pubs, including The Old Bell, which was the priory’s guest house. A little beyond Hurley, the Thames Path would normally switch to the north bank, over the arched Temple foot bridge.

    Bisham Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Bisham Thames Path National Trail

    However, with this bridge currently closed, you will need to follow the lane to Bisham with its pretty riverside church, then walk along the busy road until you reach the bridge at Marlow.

    Marlow Bridge Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Marlow Bridge Thames Path National Trail

    Option 2 – north bank via Medmenham and Harley Golf course

    As we were walking in the opposite direction from Marlow to Henley, we reached the Temple foot bridge, only to find it was closed. Rather than returning to Marlow and retracing our steps on the south bank, we decided to take a detour to the path.

    Marlow Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Footpath near Marlow on Thames Path National Trail

    This took us around the Harleyford Golf course, where we stopped for coffee. We then followed the road, before rejoining the river at Medmenham.

    Here we found a riverside path along the northern bank for much of the way to Mill End. Then a short walk along the road took us to Hambledon Marina.

    Hambleden Marina Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Hambleden Weir Thames Path National Trail

    At Hambledon we were able to cross the river on the impressive footbridge across the Hambledon Weir and Hambledon Lock. This enabled us to rejoin the Thames Path on the south bank.

    Of course, if you are walking from Henley to Marlow, you’ll need to follow these directions in reverse.

    Henley Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Henley Thames Path National Trail

    Day 9 – Distance and timings

    Henley to Marlow is aprox 8.5 miles / 14 km and took us 5 hours to walk, although this included some detours. As this is one of the shorter stages, you should have time to explore Henley and Marlow, both of which are attractive riverside towns.

    Marlow Bridge Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Morning mist on the river at Marlow Bridge – Thames Path National Trail

    Day 9 – Where to stay

    Henley: For budget options try The Catherine Wheel (traditional pub) or RIOSHOUSE (contemporary no-reception rooms). For more luxurious options, look at The Relais ( the former historic Red Lion Inn) or Hotel du Vin. All of these are well located in the centre of Henley, close to the many shops and restaurants.

    Marlow: There are a few places to stay in Marlow, although not as much choice as Henley. We recommend The Chequers Marlow, for boutique style in the centre of town or the Premier Inn for a budget choice.

    The Chequers Hotel Marlow UK

    The Chequers is a boutique style inn with rooms, located in the centre of Marlow

    Day 9 – Where to eat

    Both Henley and Marlow have a wide range of places to eat in the centre of town, as well as shops to stock up on picnic supplies.

    On the walk between Henley and Marlow, The Flower Pot pub at Aston serves traditional pub food. Perhaps a better place to break for lunch is Hurley, where the Thames path crosses the river on a footbridge.

    At the campsite on Hurley Lock is a tea room that’s open in the summer months. Within the village of Hurley are two pubs that both serve lunch as well as a village shop. The Old Bell at Hurley offers a more upscale menu. Alternatively, The Rising Sun is a traditional pub serving Indian food as well as pies and pub dishes.

    If you are forced, as we were due to the closure of Hurley Bridge, to walk on the north bank of the Thames, you could try Harleyford Golf Club, which serves drinks and snacks to non-members.

    Henley Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Henley on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 9 – Transport for this stage

    Henley has a railway station, which is on a branch line connecting to Twyford. At Twyford you can change to the GWR Bristol to London line or the Elizabeth Line into London. Marlow also has a railway station, which can be reached from London by changing at Maidenhead.

    The number 800 and 850 buses run between Henley and Marlow, so you could park in either town, take the bus and then walk back on the Thames path. For this stage, we parked in the Southfields Car Park (24 hrs) at Henley and took the 850 bus from Henley to Marlow, then walked on the Thames Path back to Henley.

    Day 10 – Marlow – Maidenhead – Windsor

    This was one of the most enjoyable stretches of the Thames, with a series of picturesque riverside towns and villages. A towpath follows the river closely, with a chance to admire the elegant Edwardian mansions and boathouses.

    It was this stretch of the Thames that inspired classics of English Literature like ‘The Wind in the Willows’ and ‘Three men in a boat’.

    Bourne End - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Bourne End – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Leaving Marlow behind

    We were sad to leave the pretty town of Marlow behind, as we skirted behind the church with glimpses down the lane of Marlow weir. The path took us through open water meadows beside the river, to Bourne End, with its small marina and sailing club.

    Cows near Cookham - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Cows near Cookham – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Here we crossed over the steel footbridge to continue on the opposite bank. The herd of cows we passed wallowing in the river, could have been straight out of a Turner painting.

    A stretch of grazing meadow, managed by the National Trust, lead us into the village of Cookham.

    Bourne End - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Bourne End – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Stanley Spencer and Cookham

    This prettiest of villages, with its 12th century church, was the home of the 20th century artist Stanley Spencer, who lived here until his death in 1959.

    Cookham church - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Cookham church – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    He is known for setting his religious and rural paintings in locations around Cookham, using the faces of real people he knew. The small Stanley Spencer Gallery in the heart of the village, is well worth a visit, with changing themed exhibitions of his work.

    Stanley Spencer Gallery Cookham - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Stanley Spencer Gallery Cookham – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Heading out of Cookham, the path runs opposite the stately home of Cliveden, now a luxury hotel. It was the home to the Astor family, who were known for their lavish parties. The house also featured in the Profumo scandal, which rocked the government in the 1960s.

    Cliveden Boathouse - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Cliveden Boathouse – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    The house is out of sight from the riverbank, but the gardens run by the National Trust and their attractive Edwardian boathouses, can be admired from the opposite bank.

    Maidenhead - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Maidenhead – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Arriving in Maidenhead

    Arriving in Maidenhead, we took a break for our picnic lunch at Boulter’s Lock. At this attractive location, a footbridge crosses to Ray Mill Island and over the river to the Taplow side.

    Ray Mill Island Maidenhead - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Ray Mill Island Maidenhead – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    The path follows the road for a short distance to Maidenhead Bridge. We crossed to continue the path on the other side, passing under the Victorian brick railway bridge, expertly engineered by Isambard Kingdom Brunel.

    Ray Mill Island Maidenhead - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Ray Mill Island Maidenhead – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    The riverside path leading down to Bray offered views of the river on one side and a succession of elegant riverfront houses on the other.

    Beyond Bray we passed under the M4 motorway, the roar of traffic slightly spoiling the peaceful atmosphere. Visible on the map but out of sight for walkers was the manmade Dorney Lake, used for rowing practice by nearby Eton College.

    Eaton meadows - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Eaton meadows – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Approaching Windsor

    Beyond Boveney Lock, the path took us under the mainline railway bridge and through the meadows past the exclusive private school of Eton College. By now we could glimpse the views of Windsor Castle rising above the town.

    Boveney Lock - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Boveney Lock – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    It was originally built as a fortress by William the Conquerer and is one of the main residences of the English Royal Family. The famous chapel has been a location for many royal marriages. Crossing the bridge took us into the historic town of Windsor, the end of this day’s walk.

    Windsor Bridge - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Windsor Bridge – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 10 – Distance and timings

    Marlow to Windsor is aprox 13.5 miles / 21.7 km and took us 7 hours to walk, including lunch and rest stops as well as a visit to the Stanley Spencer Gallery.

    If you want to plan in a rest day, Windsor Castle is a major heritage attraction and well worth a visit, but you’d need at least half a day to do it justice.

    Cliveden - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Cliveden – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 10 – Where to stay

    Marlow: There are a few places to stay in Marlow. We recommend The Chequers Marlow, for boutique style in the centre of town or the Premier Inn for a budget choice.

    Windsor: There are a number of hotels and guest houses in Windsor to suit every budget. As prices vary widely with demand, we suggest comparing all Windsor hotels for your dates. One good mid range option is the Holiday Inn Express.

    Windsor Bridge - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Windsor Bridge – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 10 – Where to eat

    Both Marlow and Windsor have a wide range of places to eat, as well as shops to stock up on picnic supplies. On the walk you can find places to eat at:

    Maidenhead – At Boulter’s Lock cross the footbridge onto Ray Mill Island, which is a pleasant place for a picnic, with a seasonal cafe. You could also get lunch or coffee at the attractive Boathouse pub. A little further, Jenner’s Riverside Cafe is in the Riverside park, or the Thames Riviera Hotel is by Maidenhead bridge.

    Cookham – Try the tea and cake at the Teapot tea shop, or a pub lunch at The Ferry or The Crown pubs.

    Tearoom at Cookham - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Tearoom at Cookham – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 10 – Transport for this stage

    Marlow has a railway station, which can be reached from London by changing at Maidenhead. Windsor also has a railway station, which can be reached on a direct train from London Waterloo, or via the Elizabeth line with a change at Slough.

    If you need to travel between Marlow and Windsor, the time by road is 20-25 minutes. However there are no direct bus connections and the route by train takes around 1 hour, requiring 2 changes, due to each station being on different branch lines.

    Because we had 2 cars, we left one car at each end of the trail and drove back to recover the second car at the end of the day.

    Maidenhead - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Maidenhead – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 11 – Windsor – Staines – Chertsey Bridge

    Although it has some attractive stretches around Runnymede, this part of the Thames starts to feel quite developed, as you enter the orbit of the M25 motorway that encircles London. This was not one of our favourite stretches, although it could have just been that the grey skies and drizzle dampened our enthusiasm!

    The path out of Windsor follows a loop in the river, and beyond Victoria Bridge offers fine views of Windsor Great Park and castle on the opposite bank. At Old Windsor there’s a lock and the path follows a canal that cuts off the loop in the river.

    Old Windsor lock- Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Old Windsor lock- Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Runnymede Meadow

    Between Windsor and Staines lies the Runnymede meadow, bounded on one side by the wooded slopes of Cooper’s Hill. This is the location of an historic meeting in 1215, between King John and his barons.

    It’s considered a turning point in English history, since the king was forced to accept limits on his powers, enshrined in a document known as the ‘Magna Carta’.

    Sculptures at Runnymeade - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Sculptures at Runnymede – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Runnymede Meadow is managed by the National Trust, with some outdoor sculptures and a tea room near the road.

    Tearoom at Runnymeade - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Tearoom at Runnymede – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Staines

    The town of Staines has a less affluent feel compared to the elegant riverside towns of Marlow, Henley and Windsor upstream. It’s close to Heathrow Airport and surrounded by reservoirs that supply London with drinking water, although you won’t necessarily see them from the Thames Path.

    Staines Bridge - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Staines Bridge – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    The riverside at Staines seems to have a strong affinity with swans, and we saw several swan related sculptures in the riverside park. There’s also a stone marker to show that this was the furthest point of the river over which the city of London had any jurisdiction.

    The Swanmaster by Diana Thomson at Staines - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    The Swanmaster by Diana Thomson at Staines – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Beyond Staines, the landscape becomes decidedly suburban, with modern houses lining the banks. The path passes the village of Laleham and under the M3 Motorway bridge, with its accompanying roar of traffic.

    Soon after Chertsey weir you’ll arrive at Chertsey Bridge, although the town and station is around 20 minutes walk from the river.

    Chertsey Bridge - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Chertsey Bridge – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 11 – Distance and timings

    Windsor to Chertsey Bridge is aprox 11.5 miles / 18.4 km and took us 6.5 hours to walk, including lunch and rest stops.

    Chertsey - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Chertsey – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 11 – Where to stay

    Windsor: There are a number of hotels and guest houses in Windsor to suit every budget. As prices vary widely with demand, we suggest comparing all Windsor hotels for your dates. One good mid range option is the Holiday Inn Express.

    Chertsey Bridge: The best option by Chertsey Bridge is The Bridge Hotel, a stylish and comfortable riverside pub. Alternatively, try the Crown Hotel or Old Swan Hotel, which are 20 minutes walk from the river in Chertsey town.

    Penton Hook Lock - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Penton Hook Lock – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 11 – Where to eat

    Windsor has a wide range of places to eat, as well as shops to stock up on picnic supplies. At Chertsey there are a couple of pubs near the bridge, but the nearest convenience store is a 10 minute walk from the river.

    On this stretch, look out for:

    Runnymede – The Magna Carta Tea Room is run by the National Trust. A little further on, the Runnymede Pleasure Ground is a good place for a picnic, with benches overlooking the river and there’s a cafe there too.

    Bell Weir Lock – The impressive Thames Hotel and Spa has a restaurant with terrace overlooking the river.

    Staines – there are several coffee shops, pubs and restaurants close to the river. We enjoyed a coffee at Nostrano Lounge, within the pedestrianised shopping area.

    Bell Weir Lock - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Bell Weir Lock – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 11 – Transport for this stage

    Windsor has a railway station, which can be reached on a direct train from London Waterloo, or via the Elizabeth line with a change at Slough.

    Chertsey also has a railway station, although it is 30 minutes walk from Chertsey Bridge where the stage ends.

    If you need to travel between Windsor and Chertsey, the time by road is 20-25 minutes. However there are no direct bus connections and the route by train takes around 1 hour, requiring a change at Staines.

    Because we had 2 cars, we left one car at each end of the trail and drove back to recover the second car at the end of the day. At Chertsey Bridge, there is a small free car park right by the bridge.

    Day 12 – Chertsey to Kingston

    This is one of the prettiest stretches of the Thames, a blend of suburban and countryside, before the scenery starts to become more built up at Kingston. At Shepperton several branches of the river converge, with a seasonal ferry to take you from one bank to the next.

    Nauticalia Ferry at Shepperton Lock - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Nauticalia Ferry at Shepperton Lock – Thames Path National Trail

    Between the tree lined banks, is the D’Oyly Carte Island, once the home to the manager of the D’Oyly Carte Opera Company, where you can take tea by the river surrounded by willows.

    I can remember performing in a school performance of the Gilbert and Sullivan operetta, The Mikado which was first staged by the D’Oyly Carte Company. “On a tree by the river a little tom tit sang willow, tit willow, tit willow” – perhaps inspired by this very location.

    D'Oyly Carte Island at Shepperton - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    D’Oyly Carte Island at Shepperton – Thames Path National Trail

    Passing the modern Walton Bridge brings you to the old ferry point of Walton Wharf with its two riverside pubs. The straight ‘Walton mile’ of river was used for Regattas in the late 19th century.

    At Sunbury Lock a large island conceals the opposite bank and there is a seasonal ferry. Large reservoirs are so well concealed by high banks beside the towpath that you’ve really no idea that they are there.

    Sunbury Lock - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Sunbury Lock – Thames Path National Trail

    Hampton

    At Hampton, a pretty view across the river opens up, towards the church tower and the domed “Garrick’s Temple”. It was built for the Shakespearean 18th century actor Richard Garrick, who lived in the house behind it.

    Garrick's Temple Hampton - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Garrick’s Temple Hampton – Thames Path National Trail

    By Molesey Lock you’ll pass rowing club boat houses and it’s time to cross the river at Hampton Court Bridge, leading to the Tudor palace set in its park.

    There’s just a glimpse of Hampton Court Palace through ornate gilded gates, before the towpath follows the bend in the river alongside the palace’s park, to Kingston Bridge, where this stage ends.

    Gates of Hampton Court - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Gates of Hampton Court – Thames Path National Trail

    Day 12 – Distance and timings

    Chertsey to Kingston is aprox 11 miles / 17.7 km. Allow around 5 hours plus stopping time. If you want to stop at Hampton Court Palace, you could afterwards take the bus to save time, rather than walk to Kingston. Hampton Court Palace is a major attraction that will easily take several hours to see properly.

    Day 12 – Where to stay

    The Bridge Hotel Thames Path Chertsey
    The White Hart Hotel Thames Path

    The White Hart Hotel is on the Hampton Wick side of Kingston Bridge, or walk into Kingston Town for other budget hotel options

    Day 12 – Where to eat

    There are numerous attractive stops for food and drink along this stretch of the river including:

    Shepperton LockThe Ferry Coffee Shop at the ferry crossing on the north bank. On the south bank is D’Oyly’s, a cafe with outdoor seating overlooking the river, on the D’Oyly Carte Island which is accessed by a foot bridge.

    Walton on Thames – at Walton Wharf, The Anglers and The Swan are busy pubs serving food, with decks overlooking the river. You can also find shops for picnic provisions, including a Sainsbury’s supermarket, in Walton on Thames village.

    Riverside Pubs at Walton Wharf Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Riverside Pubs at Walton Wharf Thames Path National Trail

    Hampton Court – there are numerous pubs and restaurants on the south bank near the bridge and the Mezzet Box is a small outdoor cafe right by the river, tucked next to the bridge.

    Kingston – There are numerous restaurants and cafes on the south bank of the river, when you cross Kingston Bridge and plenty of shops, including a Waitrose supermarket, in Kingston Town Centre.

    Day 12 – Transport for this stage

    There is a train station at Chertsey, but it’s quite awkward to get to, so we started our walk at Shepperton Lock instead. On this part of the walk it’s handy to look at the network map for South West Railway, to easily work out the train connections.

    We took the train to Shepperton station and walked 30 mins to Shepperton Lock, where the Nauticalia pedestrian ferry takes you across the river from the north to the south bank. The ferry runs daily in summer and weekends in winter, check the timetable here.

    An alternative station on this leg of the walk is at Hampton Court Palace. On arrival at Kingston Bridge the nearest stations are Hampton Wick or Kingston. If you are stuck at any point, local buses are often the most direct way to get around. We recommend the TFL Go app to plan bus and train routes in and around London.

    More articles about the Thames Path National Trail

    I’ll be publishing more articles in this Thames Path series very soon. In the meantime, if you have questions about our walk on the Thames Path National Trail, feel free to email me at heather(at)heatheronhertravels(dot)com

    Resources for hiking the Thames Path National Trail

    Train bookings – to get you to the start and end of this section of the walk, we recommend Trainline for easy rail bookings.

    Book accommodation: to book hotels online and conveniently have all your bookings in once place, we used Booking.com but if you prefer you could also use Expedia.

    Guidebook – we used and recommend the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide – this is the one we used and we liked the easy to follow maps and the fact that it’s just as easy to follow for walking in either direction.

    The Thames Path National Trail website is a useful source of information about the trail as a whole.

    Thames Path 9-12 Photo Album

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    This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com

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  • Best things to do in Andros Greece

    Best things to do in Andros Greece


    The Greek island of Andros has a charming and authentic atmosphere, a world away from the busier Cyclades islands nearby, such as Mykonos and Santorini. Read on for our travel guide, with all the best things to do in Andros; where to eat, recommended hotels and practical tips on how to get around if you want to go car-free. This is a place where you can relax and enjoy the many beaches, go hiking on well marked trails and swim under waterfalls in a hidden river valley.

    Andros travel guide - things to do in Andros © Heatheronhertravels.com

    This article may contain affiliate links that provide commission on purchases you make at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

    An Introduction to Andros

    Andros became wealthy in the 19th and 20th century, when many families owned merchant ships and the island prospered from maritime trade. Local men were employed as sailors and sea captains, returning from their voyages to build beautiful houses with their earnings.

    You’ll see signs of this wealth in the attractive “sea captain’s” houses of the island capital Chora, and the sophisticated museums and galleries founded by wealthy shipping families.

    The atmosphere here is laid back, with a culture that’s unspoiled by mass tourism. But you can find excellent restaurants, luxury hotels and stylish places like the Kourtesis winery that will appeal to the discerning independent traveller.

    Chora Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Chora Andros Greece

    Why visit Andros?

    Each Greek island has its individual character, but you’ll probably enjoy Andros if:

    • you enjoy a quiet and relaxing holiday.
    • you’re interested in discovering authentic Greek island life, rather than glitz and glamour.
    • you enjoy hiking, beaches and nature.
    • your idea of nightlife is a relaxing meal in the town square or a nightcap overlooking the sea.
    • you’re happy to travel by ferry from Athens or neighbouring islands since there is no airport.
    • you want an island that makes an easy add-on to Athens, since it’s just 2 hours by ferry.
    Kolona Beach Batsi Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com

    The main places to stay in Andros

    Most visitors will stay in one of the four main towns and resorts – you can check out our full list of recommended hotels in Andros later in the article.

    Gavrio – the main ferry port on Andros, with shops and restaurants that cater for ferry passengers. Since Andros has no airport, it’s likely you will pass through Gavrio, but most visitors choose to stay elsewhere, since there’s no beach.

    Chora Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Chora Andros Greece

    Chora – as the island’s picturesque capital and original harbour, much of the island’s former wealth was concentrated here. There are beaches on both sides of the town, plenty of accommodation, restaurants and a few museums. This is the best place to stay if you visit in shoulder season, since more places are open all year round.

    Batsi – a popular holiday resort with a broad beach, small marina and plenty of holiday accommodation and restaurants. This is where holiday companies are likely to send you, and in high season the beach here is more protected from the Meltemi winds, although Batsi is quieter in low season.

    Korthi – the quietest of the holiday resorts, especially in low season when not much is open. It’s further to get to from the ferry, requiring a drive on winding roads, and has a sleepy, relaxed atmosphere. This where the locals go to get away from it all!

    The Meltemi winds

    During July and August, Andros and neighbouring Tinos are known for the Meltemi winds that blow from the north. Although we did not experience them on our visit in September, they can be quite strong in summer, affecting the sandy beaches, making the sea rough and boat trips difficult.

    Since the north of the island is more affected, on windy days it may be better to head to the more protected beaches on the south side of Andros, or stay by your hotel pool.

    Chora Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Chora Andros Greece

    Things to do in Andros

    With no airport, Andros is popular with independent travellers from Europe and the USA. It’s also a well known weekend destination for Greeks coming from Athens, which is only 2 hours away by ferry.

    The main things to do in Andros include hiking and outdoor activities, swimming on the many beaches, visiting some of the island’s museums and enjoying the charming and authentic atmosphere of Chora.

    Chora Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Chora Andros Greece

    Chora

    As the island capital of Andros, Chora is centre of the island’s cultural life. The name ‘Chora’ literally means country, and is commonly used on Greek islands to denote the main town.

    Since most of the old town is pedestrianised, it’s a charming place to visit and a good place to base yourself on Andros. The town’s car park is on the edge of the pedestrianised area, but it can get crowded in summer.

    Our recommended hotel in Chora is Anemomiloi Andros Boutique Hotel where we stayed.

    Things to do in Andros Chora

    Andros Chora Greece Photo Heatheronhertravels.com-
    Andros Chora Greece
    • Wander through the old town, with its cobbled lanes and charming churches, admiring the neo-classical sea captain’s houses.
    • Head down to the furthest end of town to the Square of the Unknown soldier. The large statue located there commemorates all the sailors who sailed from Andros and never returned.
    • From this spot you can also see the ruins on a small island of the 13th century Venetian fortress. It’s possible in calm weather to cross the stone arch and climb up to the fortress for some nice photos. However the bridge is somewhat precarious, so I wouldn’t do it without a local guide. From here you can also see the Tourlitis lighthouse perched on a rock.
    Venetian fort Andros Chora Greece Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Venetian fort Andros Chora Greece
    • Swim from either of the two beaches that lie on either side of the high ground on which Chora is built. Paraporti beach is backed by dunes for a wilder feel, while Neimporio offers several cafes and sunbeds for hire. When the sea is calm, you can also swim off the rocks in the old town.
    • Chora is a good place to explore the food of Andros, with plenty of delis and bakeries selling local specialties and numerous excellent restaurants.
    • Most of the museums in Andros are located in Chora. Be sure to visit the Goulandris Museum of Contemporary Art, Archaeological Museum of Andros and the Petros and Marika Kydonieos Foundation. There are a few others that weren’t open when we visited such as the Maritime Museum, Digital Museum and the folk museum inside the Paradise Hotel.

    More things to do if you are based in Chora

    • If you are interested in some fun excursions to the river pools for swimming, wineries, monasteries or boat trips to less accessible beaches, call in at Explore Andros, who have their offices in the Fresco cafe in Chora.
    • It’s easy to use Chora as a base for hiking in Andros, and this is where we stayed. There are numerous trails that lead out from the town, or you can get a taxi to the furthest point of the trail and hike back into Chora.
    View of Paraporti beach from Chora - Hiking in Andros Greece Photo © Heatheronhertravels.com
    View of Paraporti beach from Chora – Andros Greece

    Batsi

    This popular resort town (written in Greek as Mpatsi) is spread around a protected bay with broad sandy beach. Even if you are not staying here, Batsi is worth visiting for the day.

    There’s a large car park in the centre of town behind the beach, and a one way system on the roads. You’ll enter the town from the north side of the bay and exit at the south side.

    Our recommended hotel in Batsi is Hotel Chryssi Akti.

    Things to do in Batsi

    • Walk along the seafront promenade to the marina area, noticing some of the older style sea captain’s houses from the mid 19th century.
    • Relax or swim on the main beach, where there are sun beds and a beach bar in front of the Chryssi Akti Hotel. At the north end of the bay, there’s the smaller Kolona beach, with a beach bar, which we preferred. Being on the south side of the island, Batsi offers one of the more protected beaches when the Meltemi winds are blowing.
    Batsi Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Batsi Andros Greece
    • Chill out in one of the cafes or restaurants that overlook the marina. For dinner, both Stamatis Taverna and Oti Kalo have good reputations.
    • Just south of Batsi is the Archaeological Museum of Paleopolis. This contains the findings from the island’s original capital of Paleopolis. There’s a path (Route 9a) from here down to the sea where the ancient town dating back to the 6th century BC was located. Some remains of the Paleopolis port are visible under the sea.
    • There are some hiking trails that lead out from Batsi – Route 11a over the Petalo mountain ridge and into the Arni valley, Route 11 that skirts high ground above the coast and Route 16a to the Agios Petros monastery.
    Batsi Andros Greece Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Batsi Andros Greece

    Korthi

    This is the quietest of the main seaside towns on Andros, although quite a few people live in the more rural area behind it. You can park along the seafront promenade. Things to do in Korthi include:

    Korthi Andros Greece Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Korthi Andros Greece
    • Walk along the seafront promenade and explore the more sheltered pedestrianised lanes that lie one block behind.
    • Enjoy an excellent lunch at the best restaurant in town, Sea Satin Nino, which is owned by a well known local chef and is open all year round.
    Sea Satin Nino Korthi Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Sea Satin Nino Korthi Andros Greece
    • Swim on the beach that lies on the south end of the promenade. Due to the sweeping bay and bowl of mountains enclosing it, this is one of the more protected beaches on a windy day.
    • Hike over the headland at the north end of the bay to one of the most famous beaches, Grias To Pidima.
    • On the drive between Chora and Korthi, you might like to park the car and walk around the pretty hillside village of Kochylos, which is set above Korthi.
    Korthi Andros Greece Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Korthi Andros Greece

    Hiking in Andros

    Andros is unusual on the Greek islands in offering some great opportunities for hiking. Traditional kalderimia or mule paths between villages, have been restored and signposted by a group of volunteers through the Andros Routes organisation.

    Hiking in Andros Greece - Syneti to Chora - Photo © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Hiking in Andros Greece – Syneti to Chora

    The landscape of Andros is relatively mountainous with elevations of up to 1000 metres. Springs and rivers tumble down the hillside to the sea, creating walking routes with beautiful views, green wooded valleys and sheltered beaches for swimming.

    Apikia - Hiking in Andros Greece Photo © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Apikia – Hiking in Andros Greece

    There are a total of 240km easy to follow hiking trails, with maps available of all the hiking routes. Andros offers walking for every level of fitness, from easy circular routes and scenic day hikes, to a 100km long distance trail that crosses the island.

    Stone bridge Achla River - Hiking in Andros Greece Photo © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Stone bridge Achla River – Hiking in Andros Greece

    In spring and autumn, the warm sunny days make Andros the ideal place for an active holiday. Read about all the hiking we did in Andros in my detailed article – there’s also a 7 day hiking itinerary that you can follow.

    Hiking in Andros – the Andros Routes walking trails.

    Enjoy the Beaches of Andros

    There are many lovely beaches in Andros, although in my opinion they are not the most accessible, compared to other Greek islands I’ve visited. Many require a hire car, with access via narrow, rocky and winding roads and with limited parking spots when you arrive.

    If you are not used to driving on the Greece islands (which can be a little hair-raising) you might want to either take a boat trip to visit the northern beaches, or else enjoy the beaches that are within easy distance of the main towns like Chora, Batsi and Korthi.

    If you are hiring a car with the intention of visiting as many beaches as possible, you should consider hiring a four wheel drive vehicle. This will make it much easier to access the beaches on dirt roads, also you may not be insured if you take a normal hire car on the dirt roads.

    Paraporti beach - Hiking in Andros Greece Photo © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Paraporti beach – Hiking in Andros Greece

    Beaches near Chora

    Paraporti Beach – a broad sandy beach just below Chora backed by a nature reserve and dunes.

    Neimporio Beach – located on the other side of Chora, this beach is a mix of sand and pebbles. It’s backed by a range of cafes and holiday accommodation, with sun beds for hire.

    Gialia Beach – Piso Gialio Beach – if you hike or drive over the headland from Neimporio you’ll reach Gialia beach, with clear turquoise water. There’s a seafood restaurant here that runs sea kayak tours. Just over the rise is Piso Gialio beach, with a beach bar in summer.

    Gialia Beach Hiking in Andros Greece Photo © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Gialia Beach Andros Greece Photo

    Syneti Beach – we visited this lovely cove below the village of Syneti on one of our hikes. There’s a small parking area at the beach, or get a taxi to drop you off here, have a swim and then hike back to Chora.

    Syneti beach - Hiking in Andros Greece Photo © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Syneti beach – Hiking in Andros Greece

    Beaches near Korthi

    Milos Beach – this is the main beach of Korthi and is located at the southern end of town. At the other end before the marina is another small beach area called Limanaki and beyond the marina an area called Vintsi beach.

    Vintsi beach Korthi Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Vintsi beach Korthi Andros Greece

    Grias To Pidima – The stone pillar rising from the sea gives it the name that translates as “Old Lady’s Jump”, since the pillar is supposed to resemble an old woman who jumped from a cliff to escape from the Ottomans.

    You can hike over the headland from Korthi to get there. It’s also possible to drive on a narrow stony track from Korthi, but we found it a bit scary since the road is quite rough with only a few passing places.

    Grias To Pidima beach Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Grias To Pidima beach Andros Greece

    Beaches near Batsi

    Batsi beach – the main beach of Batsi stretches the whole length of the bay, with shallow water. There are sunbeds and a beach bar in front of the Chryssi Akti Hotel.

    Batsi beach Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Batsi beach Andros Greece

    Kolona Beach – we preferred this smaller cove to the main beach at Batsi. You can easily walk from Batsi or there’s a parking area. This beach has a bar with a few spots of natural shade provided by the rocks.

    Kolona Beach Batsi Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Kolona Beach Batsi Andros Greece

    Beaches near Gavrio

    Agios Petros, Kypri, Golden Sand – These beaches are located between Batsi and Gavri and are among the most accessible on Andros, since they are on a flat stretch of coastline right beside the main road.

    Kypri beach has a watersports centre operating in summer, with windsurfing, SUP, waterski and wakeboarding. The buses to Gavrio also pass by these beaches, so you can ask the driver to drop you off here.

    Beaches in the north of Andros

    Achla beach – This is a lovely sandy beach that can be visited on a boat trip from Chora. It’s a long drive from anywhere, with the final section on a winding dirt road. You could park by the Agios Nikolaos Monastery and hike there and back (1 hour each way) on Andros Route 6.

    In the north east of the island are a number of sandy coves, such as Zorkos, Vitali and Lefka, that are reached by mountain roads from Gavrio or Batsi. As they face north they will receive the full force of any Meltemi winds in summer, so are best visited on calmer days.

    Monasteries in Andros

    Like the neighbouring island of Tinos, Andros has several centuries old monasteries that may be visited. It’s popular among the Greeks to organise pilgrimage trips on both islands. We noticed some large coach parties on the ferry who were clearly pilgrims, often older ladies dressed in black or sober colours.

    A few tips for visiting monasteries in Greece

    • It’s respectful to wear clothes that cover your legs and shoulders for both men and women. For tourists, some monasteries provide wraps at the entrance, or you could carry a light wrap to cover your legs if wearing shorts. Other monasteries may not let you in unless you are correctly dressed.
    • While monasteries are generally free, it’s normal to make a small donation or to pay a euro or two for a candle that you then light in the church. The monks may offer you a traditional loukoumi sweet at the end of the visit.
    • Be cautious about taking photos within the walls of the monastery. In particular it’s not normally allowed to take photos within the monastery’s chapel, where the most valuable icons and treasures are kept. If in doubt, check with your guide or a monk what is permitted.

    We visited a couple of monasteries during our visit to Andros, although there are several around the island.

    Panachrantou Monastery in Andros Greece Photo © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Panachrantou Monastery in Andros Greece

    Panachrantou Monastery

    Panachrantou is located on the mountain above Chora and the road up to it is narrow and winding. We took a taxi up from Chora (glad we didn’t have to drive ourselves), then hiked down along Andros Route 1.

    Panachrantou is one of the largest monasteries on Andros and has been well restored. The battlements give it the air of a castle and you can walk onto the terrace for amazing views towards Chora.

    This monastery is said to have been founded in the 1st century after two monks saw lights shining from a cave and found a beautiful icon of the Virgin Mary. We were shown around by a friendly monk after he had swept the courtyard and chased away the peacocks, then he unlocked the chapel to let us look at the icons inside.

    Panachrantou Monastery in Andros Greece Photo © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Panachrantou Monastery in Andros Greece

    Agios Nikolaos Monastery

    We visited this monastery as part of our river trekking excursion with Explore Andros, as we left the car outside the monastery before continuing along hiking route 6. At the entrance, wraps were available for visitors and a lady opened the church to show us the beautiful icons with silver lamps hanging from the ceiling.

    By tradition the monastery is thought to have been built in the 8th century and is renowned for a miraculous icon that streams tears of fragrant myrrh.

    If you’d like to visit more of the mountain monasteries of Andros, Explore Andros offer this Monasteries of Andros half day tour.

    Agios Nikolaos monastery - Hiking in Andros Greece Photo © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Agios Nikolaos monastery – Hiking in Andros Greece

    Other Andros monasteries that we didn’t get a chance to visit include Santa Marina Andros monastery near Apikia and Zoodochos Pigi monastery between Batsi and Gavrio.

    Mountain villages of Andros

    One of the charms of Andros is that it has areas of up to 1000 metres, with villages on the higher slopes offering a “mountain village” atmosphere more typical of northern Greece. It’s from these higher slopes that water springs, feeding irrigation channels, streams and rivers that flow to the sea.

    Spring at Menites - Hiking in Andros Greece Photo © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Spring at Menites – Hiking in Andros Greece

    Menites

    The best known of the traditional villages, with a couple of pleasant cafes to rest in the shade. It’s famous for the pure springs that are channelled through lion heads into a stone trough, so fill up your water bottle here.

    We walked to Menites on the Route 1 hiking trail. You can also park on the road into the village and walk a circular trail around the village, where you can see the irrigation channels and streams.

    Stenies

    On arriving at Stenies, leave you car in the small parking area opposite the taverna. Then you can walk around the village on traditional stone paths and steps to admire the older houses. Look out for the original village laundry that is fed by a spring.

    Stenies Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Stenies Andros Greece

    Apikia

    We had a look around this village near Chora before hiking back on Route 2. There’s a beautiful marble fountain with lion’s head for the Sarizia spring, renowned for its pure water that is bottled nearby.

    The small seasonal restaurant has a terrace overlooking the valley below. You can also make a short walk from the village on Route 2a to see the Pythara waterfalls and pools nearby.

    Apikia - Hiking in Andros Greece Photo © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Apikia – Village in Andros Greece

    Foros Caves

    We very much enjoyed our visit to the Foros Caves, located not far from Chora. Parking by the road, we walked 300m up the hill to the cave’s entrance, where one of the volunteer guides was waiting at the cave entrance.

    Foros Caves Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Foros Caves Andros Greece

    We were provided with a helmet and flashlight, with all backpacks being left at the cave entrance. Descending the metal staircase, we entered a chamber full of stalactites and stalagmites. The tour took us through several named chambers, while the guide pointed out different rock formations and told us more about the cave.

    There were times when we had to stoop quite low to avoid bumping our heads on the hanging rocks. It was an interesting visit and one that could be combined with some hiking on Andros Routes 18 / 18a.

    Tours take place every hour in high season but it’s recommended to ring ahead and book, especially in low season.

    River pools and waterfalls in Andros

    One of our favourite moments of the holiday was the excursion to the Gerolimni waterfall that we booked through Explore Andros. We parked at the Agios Nikolaos Monastery and walked down to the Achla river along hiking route 6. After a while the marked trail diverged and the guide took us further along the river picking our way over boulders and tree trunks.

    Gerolimni waterfall - Achla river - Hiking in Andros Greece Photo © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Gerolimni waterfall – Achla river – Hiking in Andros Greece

    Half an hour later we found the natural swimming pool, fed by icy water from the spring at Vourkoti mountain village. The water was cold enough to take your breathe away, but we really enjoyed a refreshing swim there, before returning via the same route.

    Gerolimni waterfall - Achla river - Hiking in Andros Greece Photo © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Gerolimni waterfall – Achla river – Hiking in Andros Greece

    Pytharas Waterfalls

    For a more accessible waterfall visit, you can visit the Pytharas waterfalls, which are on a marked trail from Apikia village. There are lots of shallow pools among the rocks, but none seemed deep enough to swim.

    The flow of water over the rocks was down to a trickle when we visited in October, but I imagine there would be much more water gushing down in the springtime.

    Pytharas waterfall - Hiking in Andros Greece Photo © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Pytharas waterfall – Hiking in Andros Greece

    Culture and museums in Andros

    Most of the cultural institutions of Andros are located in the capital of Chora, which has a theatre and seasonal outdoor cinema.

    Museums in Chora

    Goulandris Museum of Contemporary Art – sister to the museum in Athens and world class in terms of the building and exhibitions. We visited the temporary exhibition of the work of the photographer Martine Franck in the museum’s New Wing.

    But we didn’t manage to see the original part of the museum that houses the work of Andros sculpture Michalis Tombros, so not sure if it was closed or we just missed it.

    Goulandris Museum of Contemporary Art Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Goulandris Museum of Contemporary Art Andros Greece

    Archaeological Museum of Andros – another museum that is much bigger than it appears from the outside, with archaeological finds from Andros. There are statues and tombstones from Roman and Byzantine times, and useful background on some of the excavated settlements of Andros.

    A highlight is the well preserved “Hermes of Andros” statue, found in the island’s ancient capital of Paleopolis.

    Archaeological Museum of Andros Chora Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Archaeological Museum of Andros Chora Greece

    Petros and Marika Kydonieos Foundation, Chora – easy to miss as you drive into Chora, but worth popping in, this gallery holds free art and cultural exhibitions.

    Petros and Marika Kydonieos Foundation,Chora Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Petros and Marika Kydonieos Foundation, Chora Andros Greece

    Maritime Museum of Andros – this museum is in the oldest part of Chora by the Square of the unknown sailor, with exhibitions relating to the seafaring traditions of Andros. Unfortunately it was closed for renovations when we were there, with no indications of when it might reopen.

    Other museums in Andros

    Olive Oil Museum at Ano Pitrofos – An old olive oil mill that has been made into a museum showing how the oil is produced. Unfortunately when we visited in September, the museum had closed for the season.

    Agadaki Estate and Botanical Garden – we passed this tranquil botanical garden on our hike from Apikia to Chora, as it’s just a short walk from the village. The lovely grounds are planted with olive trees, native trees and aromatic plants.

    In the restored farmhouse is an exhibition about the projects to preserve Andros’s unique habitats and alder forests. Downstairs is a small folk museum with old farming tools on display.

    Agadaki Estate Botanical Garden - Hiking in Andros Greece Photo © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Agadaki Estate Botanical Garden – Hiking in Andros Greece

    Local food

    In Andros you’ll find all the favourite Greek dishes, but here are a few island specialities.

    Fourtalia – also known as Andros omelette and served in traditional cafes. This thick tortilla style omelette includes potatoes and slices of the local pork sausage.

    Fourtalia omlette Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Fourtalia omlette Andros Greece

    Fish and seafood – there’s plentiful seafood in the restaurants on Andros, especially those that are near the sea. In Chora, we loved the seafood at Ta Binelikia and Nona’s near Neimporio beach, both of which have terraces overlooking the sea.

    The freshest locally caught fish are generally displayed whole on ice and sold by weight, so check with the waiter what’s available that day.

    Seafood in Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Seafood in Andros Greece

    Another traditional Andros dish that we saw on restaurant menus was “Rooster in wine sauce”, the Greek equivalent of Coq au Vin.

    Traditional sweets in Andros

    There are a few local sweets that are traditional for Andros and can be found in the specialist shops in Chora.

    One of the best known is Zaris Patisserie, which has a lovely shop beside the road as you drive out of Chora, or there are several traditional patisseries on the main street in Chora.

    Sweets in Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Sweets in Andros Greece

    Amygdalota – an almond paste like marzipan, that’s made into a ball and dusted with icing sugar.

    Kaltsounia – made from walnuts and honey in a sticky ball that’s dusted with icing sugar

    Pastitsakia – a small round cookie like a macaron made from almonds and egg whites.

    Sweet spoon – local fruit such as orange peel, sour cherries or walnuts that have been preserved in sugar syrup. They are served on a small spoon and would traditionally be offered with Greek coffee when guests visit your house.

    Wineries in Andros

    The Kourtesis wine estate is located in the hills above Chora, close to the village of Stenies. This boutique winery has beautifully restored old stone buildings, where tastings and events are held overlooking the vineyard. Local Cycladic grape varieties are used to make the organic wines, which you can also try in local restaurants.

    Kourtesis wine estate Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Kourtesis wine estate Andros Greece

    We had a lovely tasting in the vaulted room next to the winery, accompanied by local cheese, charcuterie and the estate’s own olive oil. The Kourtesis Winery can be visited by appointment, so call or email ahead to request a wine tasting and estate tour.

    Alternatively, you can take one of the wine tasting tours arranged by Explore Andros, that provide transport and include a visit to the nearby waterfalls.

    Kourtesis wine estate Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Kourtesis wine estate Andros Greece

    Anyone with a detailed interest in the wines of Andros should contact Explore Andros to arrange a bespoke tour, since there are other wineries in Andros to visit, such as the Stratis vineyards.

    Restaurants in Andros

    We stayed in Chora where there’s a wide range of excellent restaurants, and tried a few other places while we were driving around the island.

    Fresco Chora Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Fresco Chora Andros Greece

    Restaurants in Chora

    Fresco – a cafe with a healthy theme, for juices, smoothies, salads and brunch. The owners also run the Explore Andros tour company so you can arrange your excursions, transfers and car hire here too.

    Ta Skalakia – a charming traditional taverna where you can eat home cooked dishes outside on “The Steps” that give it the name. Be sure to look at the interior that’s full of vintage memorabilia.

    Ta Binelikia – an excellent and well priced seafood restaurant near Neimporio beach, with a terrace overlooking the sea.

    Endochora – an upscale restaurant serving modern Greek and Mediterranean cuisine with stylish interiors.

    Ta Skalakia Chora Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Ta Skalakia Chora Andros Greece

    Restaurants in Batsi

    We only had coffee here and didn’t get a chance to try any of the restaurants, but the ones we heard most recommended were Stamatis Taverna and Oti Kalo.

    Restaurants in Korthi

    We had an excellent lunch with professional service on the terrace of Sea Satin Nino, where the chef – owner has a good reputation locally. It’s set one block back from the seafront and is open all year round, with stylish interiors.

    Sea Satin Nino Korthi Andros Greece © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Sea Satin Nino Korthi Andros Greece

    Where to stay in Andros

    Recommended hotels in Chora

    Anemomiloi Andros Boutique Hotel (we stayed here) – a stylish boutique hotel with swimming pool on the edge of Chora town. They offer a good breakfast but there’s also a small kitchenette in the rooms.

    The hotel is attractively designed with different level rooms overlooking a central courtyard or countryside views. The family who own the hotel also run Explore Andros.

    Anemomiloi Hotel Andros Greece

    Archontiko Eleni (we stayed here) – this small hotel in a neo-classical townhouse, is a good value option with elegant traditional style. It offers breakfast and is well located by the main square, a short walk from all the restaurants and shops.

    With only 8 rooms the hotel feels like staying in someone’s rather grand home. This is a good option if you visit in low season, as it’s open year round and has a more cosy feel than some other places.

    Hotel Archontiko Eleni Andros, Chora Photo Heatheronhertravels.com

    Castel Abaso Boutique Apartments – a stylish self catering option in the oldest part of Chora, with 3 separate apartments, two of which have private roof terraces. This part of Chora is entirely pedestrianised and quiet at night, so it’s a good option for those who don’t have a hire car.

    These apartments are popular with couples, families or small groups who want to have a bit more space, while being a few steps away from the restaurants and amenities of Chora.

    Castel Abaso in Andros Chora Greece

    If you want to treat yourself to a bit more luxury, try Micra Anglia Boutique Hotel in the old town or Golden Vista Suites with private pools overlooking Neimporio Beach near Chora.

    Golden Vista Beachfront suites

    Other recommended hotels

    In Batsi, we recommend Hotel Chryssi Akti, which is well located in the centre of the town opposite the beach, but there’s a wide range of accommodation in Batsi. If you don’t mind being a little bit outside Batsi, the Aneroussa Beach Hotel is a lovely hotel set on the cliffs with a private beach just below.

    In Korthi there are only a few studio or apartment options – check out the accommodation in Korthi here. Gavrio also has a limited range of accommodation, since it is the island’s main ferry port – check out accommodation in Gavrio here.

    Getting around Andros

    Most advice about Andros seems to be to hire a car to get around. However these days I’m trying to travel more sustainably, so I decided to explore the options for getting around without a car first.

    If you are planning to go car-free on Andros for some or all of the time, I’d recommend basing yourself in Chora, the picturesque island capital. Not only does Chora have 2 beaches and a wide choice of shops and restaurants, but also the best transport links.

    By Bus

    The KTEL public buses in Andros are designed mainly to take people to the ferry, running between the towns of Batsi, Chora, Korthi and Gavrio port. There are a couple of buses a day on each route, timed to arrive / leave Gavrio around the ferry arrivals. In high season (May – September) the buses are more frequent.

    So if you want to use the buses for sightseeing, you could take a bus in the morning and return on the afternoon bus. For example, it could be possible to to do a day trip from Batsi to Chora, Chora to Batsi or Chora to Korthi.

    Buses are not ideal for taking you to the beaches, as most aren’t on a bus route, unless you are prepared to do a bit of additional hiking. It’s also an option to take the bus one way and use a taxi to return.

    Despite all these limitations, the bus fares are affordable (€3-4) and it’s worth checking the KTEL Andros bus timetable to see what’s possible. If relying on the bus, you might want to check timings at the nearest bus station or stop, as we found there were sometimes variations to the published timetable.

    By Taxi

    If you don’t want to drive, taxis are another good option, especially if you can take a taxi one way and use the bus or hike the return journey. For instance we took taxis from Chora to the furthest point of a hiking trails, then hiked back into Chora.

    Based on our experience, these taxi rides of 15-30 minutes normally cost €20-30. There seemed to be agreed fares on popular routes, rather than a meter being used. So you can ask the taxi driver what the fare will be in advance.

    In Andros there are taxi ranks in Chora (near the bus station), Batsi (near the harbour) and Gavrio (by the port). We are not sure if there is an official taxi rank in Korthi, but in any case most bars, restaurants or hotels can call you a taxi.

    Hiring a car

    Most of the hire car companies are based in Gavrio Port. As you’ll almost certainly arrive by ferry, it makes sense to pick up your hire car at Gavrio Port and return it there as you depart Andros. We recommend searching on Rental Cars to see what’s available.

    Search with Gavrio Port, Andros as your pick up location and look for car hire that’s located close to the port. As always, check the reviews and scores before booking, rather than just going for the cheapest option.

    If you prefer a more personal service, or want to use a car for only part of your stay, we can recommend Explore Andros who we hired our car from, which was brought to our hotel.

    Transfers to / from Gavrio port

    On arrival in Andros by ferry at Gavrio Port, you may want to arrange a taxi transfer from the port to either Batsi (15 mins) or Chora (45-60 mins), depending on where you are staying. These are often minivan taxis, large enough for groups or families and we booked ours through Explore Andros.

    When reserving accommodation, your hotel will often offer to book a transfer for you. But if you arrive without any pre-booked transfer, there are also taxis at the taxi rank in Gavrio port.

    Alternatively, the KTEL public buses (see above) run from Gavrio port to Batsi, Chora and Korthi and are timed to leave soon after the ferry’s arrival.

    Getting around on foot

    Andros is particularly known for the Andros Routes hiking trails, which cover many parts of the island.

    Read my article about hiking in Andros, with a 1 week itinerary you can follow or options for day walks.

    Of the 2 weeks I spent on Andros, one week was spent hiking and we did not use a hire car for this week. Instead, we used a mixture of taxis, day tours and lifts to get us to the start of each day’s walk, then hiked back to Chora along the well signposted trails.

    Even if you just want to do a couple of days hiking and relax for the rest of the time, you probably don’t need a car for these hiking days. There are a few shorter circular routes, but most of the longer and more scenic hiking routes are one way.

    Andros Chora Greece Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Andros Chora Greece

    Guided Tours in Andros

    If you don’t have a hire car, another excellent option for visiting many of the cultural or difficult to access places in Andros, is by booking a guided day tour. We booked a couple of tours through Explore Andros, which were excellent.

    Best of Andros full day tour – a taste of the island highlights, starting in Chora, with waterfalls, a monastery and visits to a pretty mountain village.

    Andros wine tasting – visit to the Kourtesis winery and nearby Pythara waterfalls – Half day tour

    River trekking – along the Achla valley with swimming under the Gerolimni waterfall * highly recommended*

    Monasteries of Andros – half day tour – visiting three different monasteries in Andros

    Luxury boat tour – from Chora to the northern beaches of Andros, which will save you a long tiring drive.

    How to get to Andros

    Ferry to Andros

    There’s no airport on Andros, so most visitors fly into Athens or Mykonos airports, then take the ferry. Ferries run from the Athens port of Rafina to Andros and then on to neighbouring Tinos and Mykonos.

    They return from Mykonos by the same route, stopping at Tinos, Andros and then Rafina.

    Ferry at Gavrio Port Andros Greece Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Ferry at Gavrio Port Andros Greece

    Ferries run several times a day from Rafina port near Athens, with Fast Ferries or Golden Star Ferries and the journey time is 2 hours. There’s also a slightly more expensive Seajets ferry from Rafina to Andros which takes 1 hour 10 mins.

    From Mykonos, the ferry time is 2 hours 25 mins. When we travelled the one way ferry ticket from Rafina to Andros was from €25 per person for a foot passenger.

    Where to buy ferry tickets for Andros

    Although you can buy ferry tickets at the port, we found it easier to book online in advance using a service like Ferryscanner. You’ll receive a ticket with bar code by email so that you can go straight on board the ferry. Check the ferry fares, timetables and book your ferry here.

    Ferry at Gavrio Port Andros Greece Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Ferry at Gavrio Port Andros Greece

    How to get to Rafina port

    To reach Rafina from Athens Airport, you can take a taxi (30 mins) or a regular KTEL Attikis bus (30 mins) – find the timetable here. The airport bus stop is opposite the Sofitel Hotel, leaving the arrivals hall by Exit 3.

    Ferry at Gavrio Port Andros Greece Photo Heatheronhertravels.com-
    Ferry at Gavrio Port Andros Greece

    To reach Rafina port from central Athens you have a few options.

    Option 1: take the KTEL Attikis bus from Nomismatokopio Station in Athens to Rafina (60 mins).

    Option 2: take Line 3 of the Athens Metro to Athens airport and from there take the bus or a taxi to Rafina.

    Option 3: the most expensive option, but economic if there is a group of you, is to arrange a taxi from any point in Central Athens to Rafina (60 mins).

    Ferry at Gavrio Port Andros Greece Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Ferry at Gavrio Port Andros Greece

    Read Next

    Want to see more of Andros? Check out my article about Hiking in Andros on the scenic Andros Routes hiking trails.

    Hiking in Andros Greece Photo Heatheronhertravels.com

    More places to visit in Greece

    Andros Greece Photo Album

    Pin it!

    Most of this trip was self-funded but some of the experiences and accommodation were kindly provided by Explore Andros.

    This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com

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  • Level8 Creator Carry-on – the Best Luggage for Modern Travel

    Level8 Creator Carry-on – the Best Luggage for Modern Travel


    Every traveler should have a good carry-on. Even if you only fly occasionally, having a reliable one on hand allows you to bypass the check-in and worry less about your baggage getting lost. But what makes a high-quality carry-on?

    As someone who hasn’t checked a bag in the past ten years of travel across the U.S. and abroad, I’ve thought a lot about what makes a good piece of carry-on luggage. And if you ask me, it’s about capacity, maneuverability, durability, and design. After testing quite a few carry-ons over the years, I came across one that beats all the ones I had before: the Level8 Creator Carry-on.

    many carrying a Level8 Creator carry-on
    Level8 Creator Carry-on

    Why the Level8 Creator Carry-on Stands Out

    The best carry-ons should be both spacious and easy to keep organized, with handy pockets and compartments. I prefer a carry-on that also looks good and the Level8 Creator Carry-on meets all these requirements.

    In terms of features, the Creator has some that sets it apart from the rest of the suitcases:

    suitcase with Built-in USB-A&C ports
    Built-in USB-A&C ports
    • Wide-handle: this suitcase offers an adjustable telescopic wide trolley handle. This revolutionary design is ultra-sturdy and provides enhanced stability. It also has the advantage of creating more interior space for packing.
    • Quick-Access Laptop Pocket: Front sleeve with an independent laptop compartment for easy access.
    • Built-in USB-A&C ports: this feature keeps you powered up on the go. (Power bank not included)
    • Durable Design: premium German Makrolon® polycarbonate, which is lightweight and built to last.
    • YKK dual-layer zipper: provide better protection against water and dust.
    • TSA-approved lock: this not only ensures the security of your belongings, but also saves you from the inconvenience of having your lock permanently damaged during a routine security inspection.
    • 360° smooth spinner wheels: this system with precision ball bearings ensures smooth handling and lasting durability, no matter the terrain. The wheels are not only smooth, but also very quiet.
    • Eco-Friendly Interior: Fully lined with 100% RPET recycled polyester features a divider and dual zippered compartments for smart packing.
    • Dual zippered compartments and a divider for better packing. The front sleeve includes a mesh pocket and an independent laptop compartment, making organization effortless and your essentials easily accessible.
    • Lifetime Guarantee: Lifetime warranty that covers functional aspects including shell, wheels, handles, and zippers.
    front pocket for the computer
    Quick access laptop pocket

    My Personal Opinion About the Level 8 Creator Carry-on

    Pros

    • The LEVEL8 Creator carry-on, as well as the Level8 Adventurer, both have the wide handle which is a grea feature.
    • I also like the robust construction and organization features, particularly the zipless openings and compression straps. 
    • The spacious interior and smooth wheels are also a big plus.
    suitcase with smooth wheels
    Smooth wheels
    • I love the sleek design and modern look of the Creator Carry-on.
    • The suitcase comes with a sturdy computer sleeve which allows you to carry your computer in your hand if you choose to.
    computer sleeve
    Computer sleeve

    Cons

    • Price wise, the Level8 Creator carry-on is on the expensive side. Nonetheless, it’s a good value for the money and a good investment. Besides, these days Level8 offers a big 15% discount for many of its suitcases, including the Creator.
    • Due to its sturdy construction it is also a little heavier (10.1 lb) than other Level8 carry on, like the Pro Carry-on spinner or the Adventurer, which are only 9.1. This may be an issue with some airlines carry-on allowance.

    While it might not be ideal for all airlines’ carry-on size restrictions, its robust construction, spacious interior, and organized features make it a worthwhile investment for many travelers. 

    Level8 Creator Carry-on
    Level8 Creator Carry-on

    Don’t Miss the Packing Cube Travel Set!

    If you want to pack even smarter, you can complete your Level8 Creator carry on with the 4-piece Packing Cube Travel Set. These are good for garments, gadgets, or grooming essentials and will make your packing way more efficient. A great way to keep your belongings dry and organized.

    The packing cubes are made of a two-tone polyester that fights mildew and repels water and have detachable rubber patches for quick identification. The cubes dimensions are as follows:

    Level8 packing cubes set
    Level8 packing cubes set

    Dimensions:
    Garment Cube: 18″L x 12″W x 4″D (46 x 31 x 10 cm)
    Journey Cube for Worn Attire or Footwear: 12″L x 9″W x 4″D (31 x 23 x 10 cm)
    Electronics Cube: 9″L x 5.9″W x 3.9″D (23 x 15 x 10 cm)
    Grooming & Beauty Essentials Pouch: 9″L x 5.9″W x 3.9″D (23 x 15 x 10 cm)

    Note: Level8 Group provided me with this suitcase for a review. However, the opinions expressed in this article are based on my own experiences with this piece of luggage.



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  • Thames Path National Trail – Kingston to Woolwich Days 13-15

    Thames Path National Trail – Kingston to Woolwich Days 13-15


    The final section of our hike on the Thames Path National Trail brought us into London and the end of our 15 day walk. Over these last three days, the trail took us through the leafy suburbs of Richmond and Kew, past the historic landmarks of central London, ending in the old industrial area of London’s Docklands at Woolwich.

    Richmond on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com

    This article may contain affiliate links that provide commission on purchases you make at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

    Days 13-15 – Kingston to Woolwich

    I walked the Thames Path National Trail in stages with my sister, usually a couple of days at a time. While the whole trail takes 15 days if you walk it consecutively, in the end it took us around a year to complete.

    As you’ll see from the photos, Day 13 of the walk was done in the sunny days of June, but we did not complete Days 14 and 15 until the somewhat more chilly days of December!

    I’ve written about the trail in four separate articles, each covering 3-4 days of the Thames Path walk, which you could do in a long weekend.You’re reading the last of the four articles describing Days 13-15 on the London section of our walk.

    If you haven’t already done so, you can read about the previous walks below:

    This section of three day’s walking could easily be managed over a long weekend. Alternatively you could just pick one of the legs for a day’s walk. Our direction of travel was from the Thames source in Gloucestershire towards London, but you can walk any of these stages in either direction.

    Views towards Richmond Hill - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Views towards Richmond Hill – Thames Path National Trail

    Essential planning for Days 13-15 – Kingston to Woolwich

    If you are walking sections 13-15 of the Thames Trail over a 3 day period, here are the planning essentials.

    Transport – as these walks are within London, there are numerous transport options by bus, underground or overground train to get to the start or end of each day’s walk. You can tap on and off all London transport using a debit card or an Oyster card. If arriving from outside London, we recommend Trainline for easy rail bookings.

    Book accommodation: For the night before starting the walk at Kingston (if required) – White Hart Hotel | Day 13 Putney – mk hotel London | Day 14 Tower Bridge – The Tower Hotel | Day 15 Woolwich – Ibis Hotel in Greenwich (if required).

    Because of the excellent transport links in London, you could also stay anywhere close to the river and return to the same hotel each evening – check options for all hotels in London. A well located hotel to stay for all legs of this 3 day walk is The Tower Hotel at Tower Bridge.

    Guidebook – buy the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide – this is the one we used and found it excellent for walking in either direction. While a guidebook is not essential, we enjoyed using this one as it added useful context to our walk.

    Syon House - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Syon House – Thames Path National Trail

    Day 13 – Kingston to Putney

    From Kingston bridge we noticed a much more built up riverside landscape than we had seen on earlier sections of the walk. Attractive 18th and 19th century riverfront houses were now backed with large apartment blocks and high rise buildings.

    Kingston itself is a busy shopping town, coming as a bit of a shock after the previous tranquil stretches of river bank. But once you cross Kingston Bridge to the southern bank, the town’s bustle is left behind and you reach a greener part of the river.

    Approaching Kingston - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Approaching Kingston – Thames Path National Trail

    At Teddington Lock, we crossed the iron bridge to the northern bank, for a refreshment stop at the Flying Cloud Cafe, before returning again to continue on the path.

    The towpath is bordered by Ham Lands nature reserve which continues to the 17th century mansion of Ham House (National Trust). It’s worth a short detour from the river to admire the house’s decorative red brick frontage.

    Teddington Lock - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Heather at Teddington Lock – Thames Path National Trail

    Day 13 – Approaching Richmond

    Soon the river bends, bringing Richmond Hill into view, passing Petersham meadows and the boathouses on the path up to Richmond Bridge. On a sunny day, the riverside at Richmond is buzzing and it’s become rather a trendy spot (I know it well having grown up here!)

    Approaching Richmond Bridge - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Approaching Richmond Bridge – Thames Path National Trail

    Things calm once you pass the railway bridge at Richmond weir and follow a surprisingly secluded and shady stretch past Old Deer Park and then Kew Gardens. On the opposite bank is a view of Syon House and the wharf at Isleworth, making a pretty scene backed by the 15th century church tower.

    Isleworth Wharf - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Isleworth Wharf – Thames Path National Trail

    Day 13 – Kew Bridge

    At Kew Bridge we took a brief break to watch the cricketers on Kew Green before continuing along a developed stretch of the river to Mortlake, famous in the past for its breweries. Just after Chiswick Bridge, we ordered a coffee at the White Hart in Mortlake, an excellent riverside pub with a terrace overlooking the river.

    Kew with views of Brentford - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Kew with views of Brentford – Thames Path National Trail

    The iron spans of Barnes Railway bridge come into sight and the river curves back on itself, passing the Barnes wetland centre that was created from the old Barn Elms reservoir.

    Hammersmith Bridge - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Hammersmith Bridge – Thames Path National Trail

    Hammersmith Bridge, with its imposing Victorian pillars and urban skyline in the background, is a sign that you have reached London proper.

    Boat Houses at Putney - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Boat Houses at Putney – Thames Path National Trail

    Approaching Putney Bridge, look out for the row of boathouses, belonging to all the London schools who launch their rowing boats from this public slipway.

    Putney Bridge - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Putney Bridge – Thames Path National Trail

    Day 13 – Distance and timings

    Kingston to Putney is aprox 13 miles/20.9 km. Allow around 6 hours plus stopping time. On this stretch, you’ll pass the stately home of Ham House (National Trust) and Kew Gardens, both of which are well worth a visit.

    If you want to visit either of these, you could break this day’s walk into two, with an overnight stay in Richmond or Kew. Richmond is also worth a look around, with its Terrace Gardens, scenic village green and views from Richmond Hill.

    Views from Richmond Hill - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Views from Richmond Hill – Thames Path National Trail

    Day 13 – Where to stay

    The White Hart Hotel Thames Path
    mk hotel London Thames Path

    Putney – mk hotel london is a good budget option near the river with no frills decor

    NOX Richmond Thames Path

    Richmond – NOX Richmond is a contemporary style aparthotel with compact rooms

    Coach & Horses Thames Path

    Day 13 – Where to eat

    On this stretch of the river there are numerous places to stop to eat and drink.

    Kingston – Stock up on picnic supplies at the Waitrose supermarket. On leaving Kingston Bridge there’s a small park cafe at Canbury Park and the busy Boater’s Inn by the river.

    Canbury Gardens near Kingston - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Canbury Gardens near Kingston – Thames Path National Trail

    Teddington – Cross on a footbridge at Teddington Lock to reach the busy Angler’s Pub, smaller Tide End Cottage Pub, or colourful Flying Cloud Cafe.

    Petersham – Approaching Richmond, the Petersham Nursery cafe is a delightful place to stop for a coffee or light lunch in their greenhouses.

    Richmond – There’s Eileen’s small kiosk cafe in the Buccleuch Gardens and the Tide Tables Cafe with large seating area right under Richmond Bridge. For a riverside pub, stop at the White Cross or the smaller White Swan on Old Palace Lane.

    Kew – At Kew Bridge head to Kew Green where there’s The Willow cafe and The Cricketer’s Pub.

    White Hart at Mortlake - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    White Hart at Mortlake – Thames Path National Trail

    Mortlake – there are several cafes and restaurants in Mortlake but we recommend the White Hart Pub overlooking the river.

    Hammersmith – while there’s not much on the Barnes side of the river, you could cross Hammersmith bridge to the north side where there are a number of riverside pubs.

    Putney – close to Putney Bridge by St Mary’s Church, are numerous pubs and cafes. There are supermarkets on Putney High Street.

    Day 13 – Transport for this stage

    For Kingston the nearest station to the river is at Hampton Wick, a 10 mins walk from Kingston Bridge. Alternatively Kingston station is in Kingston town centre. Both can be accessed from London Waterloo but require a change, so check the network map for South West Railway, to work out the train connections.

    Alternative stations on this leg of the walk are at Richmond, Kew and Mortlake. On arrival in Putney, there are 2 separate stations for the Underground and Overground train networks. Local buses are also a good way to get around and we recommend the TFL Go app to plan bus and train routes in and around London.

    Teddington Lock - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Teddington Lock – Thames Path National Trail

    Day 14 – Putney to Tower Bridge

    At Putney Bridge the transition from the leafy suburbs to London life becomes ever more obvious. Staying on the south of the river through Wandsworth, the route passes through Wandsworth Park and Battersea Park, both well used by local families, joggers and dog walkers.

    Wandsworth - Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Wandsworth – Thames Path National Trail

    Between the two parks is a stretch lined by modern buildings. The only interesting landmark here is the pretty St Mary’s church with its classical proportions and spire.

    St Mary's Church Wandsworth - Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    St Mary’s Church Wandsworth – Thames Path National Trail

    Day 14 – Battersea Power Station

    Just beyond Battersea Park is Battersea Power station, now converted into an upscale attraction for fashion shopping and dining. The riverside frontage has been attractively landscaped, with a Christmas ice rink in full swing when we were there.

    Battersea Power Station - Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Battersea Power Station – Thames Path National Trail

    We popped inside for a coffee and a quick look around the swanky shops, vowing to come back later for a day’s shopping when we had more time (and money!)

    Battersea Power Station - Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Battersea Power Station – Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com

    Just beyond the power station, at Vauxhall Bridge, the path briefly moves away from the river and follows the road, before rejoining by Lambeth Palace.

    This beautiful Tudor brick building is the seat of the Archbishop of Canterbury and only open for pre-booked guided tours, although there is a garden museum in the church next to it.

    Lambeth Palace on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Lambeth Palace on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 14 – The South Bank

    From here, we skirted the wall covered with hearts that has been painted to remember those who died during the Covid pandemic.

    Covid Memorial South Bank - Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Covid Memorial South Bank – Thames Path National Trail

    On the opposite bank are the Houses of Parliament and Westminster. Very soon we were wading through tourists all trying to take the perfect London selfie, with Big Ben as their backdrop.

    Westminster on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Westminster on the Thames Path National Trail

    This section of the South Bank is a particularly attractive and busy one. There are numerous London landmarks such as the OXO Building, Tate Modern and Shakespeare’s Globe, any of which could demand a few hours to do them justice.

    South Bank on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    South Bank on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 14 – Southwark

    Beyond Southwark Bridge, we passed the Golden Hinde replica Tudor sailing ship and the beautiful Southward Cathedral, where we ate our picnic on the bench in their courtyard.

    Southwark Cathedral on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Southwark Cathedral on the Thames Path National Trail

    Now the ultimate London landmarks of the Tower of London and Tower Bridge came into view with more crowds of tourists, which finally thinned out once we were past Tower Bridge.

    Southwark on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Southwark on the Thames Path National Trail

    By this point, we really felt that we’d seen the “Greatest Hits” of London, all in one easy day’s walk along the Thames, albeit sharing the experience with thousands of other London tourists!

    Tower Bridge on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Tower Bridge on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 14 – Distance and timings

    Putney to Tower Bridge is aprox 13.5 miles/21.7 km. It took us around 5.5 hours including stopping time, including a coffee at Battersea Power station and picnic breaks at the Festival Hall and Southwark cathedral.

    South Bank on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    South Bank on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 14 – Where to stay

    Because the rail and bus links are so comprehensive, you could stay almost anywhere in London. Since this part of the walk passes so many popular landmarks, hotels closer to the river will generally be more expensive than those further away.

    We recommend searching for hotels in London, and using the map to narrow down your search for the best locations and deals.

    If you want to stay near Tower Bridge at the end of this day’s walk, The Tower Hotel is a good option

    mk hotel London Thames Path

    Putney – mk hotel london is a good budget option near the river with no frills decor

    The Tower Hotel, Tower Bridge London

    Tower Bridge – The Tower Hotel is a good mid-range option, overlooking Tower Bridge

    Day 14 – Where to eat

    As this part of the Thames Path is close to some of London’s hottest tourist spots, anywhere near the river tends to be expensive. To find shops selling sandwiches and snacks at reasonable prices, you may need to move a little away from the river.

    Putney – Try the Putney Pantry cafe at the church or any of the many places on Putney High Street and near the bridge.

    Wandsworth – there’s a cluster of pubs and cafes close to the bridge.

    Battersea – around the Battersea Power Station and inside the complex are numerous nice cafes and restaurants, as well as an M&S food hall for picnic supplies.

    Vauxhall – around Vauxhall bridge are numerous pub and restaurant options.

    Waterloo – the area around the London Eye is packed with tourists and expensive food stalls catering for them. For something quieter, retreat into the Royal Festival Hall cafe or make a short detour to Waterloo Station where there are numerous food shops.

    Wandsworth - Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Wandsworth – Thames Path National Trail

    Gabriel’s Wharf – between Waterloo and Blackfriars Bridges is an area of cafes and bars near the river.

    Southwark – a pleasant courtyard cafe is to be found at Southwark Cathedral. Nearby is foodie heaven at Borough Market with numerous food stalls and restaurants.

    Between London Bridge and Tower Bridge – Hay’s Galleria has a good selection of cafes and restaurants in an attractive covered courtyard.

    Wandsworth - Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Wandsworth – Thames Path National Trail

    Day 14 – Transport for this stage

    There’s rarely a problem getting around in London, due to the extensive network of underground and overground trains, bus routes and the increasingly popular Uber Boat by Thames Clipper service. We recommend the TFL Go app to plan bus and train routes in and around London.

    At Putney, there are 2 separate stations for the Underground and Overground train networks. Tower Bridge is close to Tower Hill station on the north side of the river, or London Bridge station on the south side.

    There are a number of other underground and overground train stations close to the river on both banks. Both Putney and Tower Bridge are connected by the Uber Boat river service as well as by the underground train line.

    South Bank on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    South Bank on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 15 – Tower Bridge to Woolwich

    Because the transport network is so good in London, we decided to tack a little bit on to the previous day’s walk, continuing past Tower Bridge to Canary Wharf. Having fought through the tourists around Tower bridge, we were amazed to find that on the Bermondsey side of the bridge, the crowds melted away.

    Bermondsey on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Bermondsey on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 15 – The London Docklands

    While the section of the Thames path through Bermondsey and Rotherhithe is not the prettiest, it does have an interesting industrial heritage. We passed numerous old warehouses, now converted into apartments, the names of each wharf telling us what goods were landed there.

    Bermondsey on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Bermondsey on the Thames Path National Trail

    This area of the London Docklands was heavily bombed in the war and the formerly thriving wharfs fell into decline by the 1960s. More recently the docklands has been redeveloped for apartments and offices, with the glass towers of Canary Wharf springing up in the 1980s.

    Bermondsey on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Bermondsey on the Thames Path National Trail

    At the Double Tree by Hilton, we walked through the hotel’s reception to find the ferry pier and made a short ferry hop across the Thames to the glittering financial centre of Canary Wharf.

    It was from here we continued the following day, walking a short but unremarkable stretch through the Isle of Dogs on the north bank, until we crossed to the south bank again via the Greenwich foot tunnel.

    Greenwich foot tunnel on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Greenwich foot tunnel on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 15 – Greenwich

    Walking under the Thames was a surprisingly pleasant experience, with a lift or stairs to take you down, then a well lit, dry and relatively short walk to emerge in Greenwich by the Cutty Sark. The heritage attractions, especially the Royal Museums Greenwich deserve a full day here, to explore the Old Royal Naval College, Queen’s House, National Maritime Museum and Royal Observatory.

    Greenwich University on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Greenwich University on the Thames Path National Trail

    While we didn’t have time (and had seen much of it before) we did have a coffee in the pleasant surroundings of the Old Brewery, next to the visitor centre.

    On leaving the Old Royal Naval College behind, we quickly felt the legacy of this area’s past industrialisation. Less of the smart warehouse conversions and more machinery plants and waste ground waiting to be developed.

    Rotherhithe on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Rotherhithe on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 15 – The O2

    On the North Greenwich peninsula, where the Thames loops back on itself, the dome of the O2 rises like a space age spider. Built in 2000 as the Millennium Dome, the O2 now houses a concert arena and shopping centre.

    It was busy with shoppers when we stopped there, but we found a bench inside to have our picnic out of the rain. From here the IFS Cloud cable car runs across the river to the Excel conference centre, on a fine day (which it was not!) giving views over the Thames.

    Thames Barrier on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Thames Barrier on the Thames Path National Trail

    The Thames Barrier now came into sight, with a series of old wharfs to pass before we got there. This stunning piece of engineering was completed in 1982 and can be closed off when required to protect London from tidal surges and flooding.

    We did not find any information centre or cafe open, but there’s a viewing bank on the far side, with a pleasant grassy picnic area.

    Thames Barrier on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Thames Barrier on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 15 – The path ends at Woolwich

    The Thames Barrier was originally the end of the Thames Path National Trail, but in order to connect it with coastal footpaths, it’s now been extended a further half an hour’s walk to Woolwich.

    We duly walked a little further, with views of the Woolwich car ferry coming and going and reached the entrance to the Woolwich foot tunnel and the Royal Arsenal Heritage site beyond.

    Woolwich on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Woolwich on the Thames Path National Trail

    As the name suggests, Woolwich Arsenal was, from the 17th century, London’s main site for the manufacture of munitions. The old brick factory buildings have been nicely restored, but we didn’t have too much time to linger.

    Before long a Thames Clipper boat arrived at the pier and we hopped on board for the journey back to Waterloo station.

    Woolwich on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Woolwich on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 15 – London from the river

    If I’m honest, this final stretch of the Thames Path from Tower Bridge to Woolwich, was not as attractive as the previous stretch through central London, not helped by the grey and drizzly December weather.

    However, the return journey from the comfort of the river boat, past all those same London landmarks was a real highlight. The bustle and crowds of the river bank seemed to melt away in the open space and calm of the river.

    Tower Bridge on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Tower Bridge on the Thames Path National Trail

    In the past, the Thames was the main highway running through the city. So it was a great way to end our 15 day walk, seeing the historic sights of The Tower of London, Tower Bridge and Westminster from the river’s perspective.

    Day 15 – Distance and timings

    Tower Bridge to Woolwich is aprox 12 miles/19 km. It took us around 5.5 hours including stopping time, with a coffee at Greenwich and picnic stop at the O2.

    Canary Wharf opposite Greenwich Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Canary Wharf opposite Greenwich Thames Path National Trail

    Day 15 – Where to stay

    Because the rail and bus links are so comprehensive, you could stay almost anywhere in London. We recommend searching for hotels in London, and using the map to narrow down your search for the best locations and deals.

    There are not many accommodation options around Woolwich at the end of the walk, so we recommend staying at the Ibis Hotel in Greenwich instead, where there are plenty of shops and restaurants.

    Alternatively book a more centrally located hotel like The Tower Hotel at Tower Bridge, that you can return to every night using public transport.

    The Tower Hotel, Tower Bridge London

    Tower Bridge – The Tower Hotel is a good mid-range option, overlooking Tower Bridge

    Ibis Hotel London Greenwich

    Day 15 – Where to eat

    Closer to Tower Bridge, there are places to eat at every turn. But the nearer you get to Woolwich, the scarcer these become, although there’s a succession of historic riverside pubs.

    Tower Bridge (south bank)- there are quite a few smart restaurants by the river, but for something less expensive wait until you reach Bermondsey.

    Bermondsey to Rotherhithe – On this stretch you’ll find historic pubs like The Angel, The Mayflower and Salt Quay overlooking the river. There’s not much else until you reach the Doubletree by Hilton Hotel opposite Canary Wharf.

    Rotherhithe on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Rotherhithe on the Thames Path National Trail

    Canary Wharf – there are numerous cafes, shops and takeaway options around the station.

    Greenwich – there are plenty of cafes around Greenwich market, but a nice place to stop is The Old Brewery, next to the Old Royal Naval College Visitor Centre. A nice pub stop in summer would be the Trafalgar Tavern overlooking the river.

    North Greenwich / O2 – there are numerous cafe, food and shopping options in and around the O2 centre.

    Woolwich – between the O2 and Woolwich is the Anchor and Hope riverside pub, but a nice final coffee stop is the Visitor’s Book Cafe in Woolwich Works, right by the Uber Boat Jetty at the end of the Thames Path Route.

    Day 15 – Transport for this stage

    Tower Bridge is close to Tower Hill station on the north side of the river, or London Bridge station on the south side. Woolwich is connected by the Elizabeth Line and DLR (Docklands Light Railway). Along the river there are a number of other train stations.

    Tower Bridge and Woolwich are also connected by the Uber Boat by Thames Clipper river ferry service.

    We recommend the TFL Go app to plan bus and train routes around London.

    Read Next

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Source to Oxford – Days 1-4

    Thames Path National Trail Days 1-4 Kemble to Oxford © Heatheronhertravels.com

    More articles about the Thames Path National Trail

    Here are all the articles published about Thames Path National Trail.

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Source to Oxford – Days 1-4

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Oxford to Henley – Days 5-8

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Henley to Kingston – Days 9-12

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – Kingston to Woolwich – Days 13-15 (this article)

    Coming Soon – Tips for hiking the Thames Path National Trail

    Resources for hiking the Thames Path National Trail

    Train bookings – to get you to the start and end of this section of the walk, we recommend Trainline for easy rail bookings.

    Book accommodation: to book hotels online and conveniently have all your bookings in once place, we used Booking.com but if you prefer you could also use Expedia.

    Guidebook – we used and recommend the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide – this is the one we used and we liked the easy to follow maps and the fact that it’s just as easy to follow for walking in either direction.

    The Thames Path National Trail website is a useful source of information about the trail as a whole.

    Thames Path 13-15 Photo Album

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    This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com

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  • Is San Sebastián Worth Visiting? An Unbiased Opinion

    Is San Sebastián Worth Visiting? An Unbiased Opinion


    If you are planning a road trip to the Basque Country and wonder whether it’s worth including San Sebastián into your itinerary, this post is for you. We recently returned from a three-week to Spain, so in this article I’ll get into the pros and cons of visiting San Sebastián. Based on our experience, there are plenty of good reasons to visit this city, but there are also a few cons which may be a deterrent for you.

    Is San Sebastián worth visiting?
    San Sebastián-Donostia

    But First Things First: where is San Sebastián?

    San Sebastián is one of the four main cities in the Basque Country, Spain, next to Bilbao, Santander and Vitoria-Gasteiz, the region’s administrative capital. Officially known by the bilingual name Donostia/San Sebastián (Basque: Donostia, Spanish: San Sebastián), the city lies on the coast of the Bay of Biscay, about 12 miles from the border of Spain and France.

    The Pros of Visiting San Sebastián

    San Sebastián was once a summer vacation spot for the European elites, and once you see it you’ll understand why.

    It’s a Clean and Safe Place to Visit

    San Sebastian is generally a very safe city to visit. The crime rate is low in comparison to other cities in Spain. We spent about 5 days in San Sebastián and never felt unsafe, whether it was day time or night time. That being said, it’s always a good idea to be mindful of your belongings, especially in crowded areas like the Old Town, where pickpocketing can occasionally occur.

    What impressed me most was how clean an well maintained the streets and the buildings are hare. In fact, San Sebastian is famous for its elegant Belle Époque buildings and charming old streets.I

    Old Town San Sebastián
    Old Town in the morning

    In the heart of San Sebastian is its Old Quarter (Parte Vieja), a labyrinth of narrow streets lined with pintxos bars and local shops. This area which buzzes with activity, especially in the evening when locals and tourists come out for a drink and a bite to eat.

    People enjoying a drink in Plaza de la Constitucion
    People enjoying a drink in Plaza de la Constitucion

    Beautiful Beaches and an Amazing Scenery

    The city’s coastline location is a big draw for visitors. It has wide sandy beaches in either direction, while inland it abounds with green forests, high cliffs, and strange rock formations. When visiting San Sebastián you’ll be surprised how green, lush and diverse the landscape is. Even in the midst of summer, when the rest of Europe is baking in a heatwave, the city maintains its verdant color.

    Scenic view of San Sebastián
    Scenic view of San Sebastián

    Beach culture is a big thing in San Sebastián because the city is blessed with quite a few nice beaches. The most popular one is La Concha. The other two are Zurriola and Ondaretta.

    La Concha Beach

    Located in a small bay in the center of the city, La Concha Beach is by far the best in San Sebastián and truly worth visiting. The beach has calm waters, fine golden sand and abundant amenities like sun-beds, umbrellas, showers, lifeguards on duty. Its protected location from the wind make it perfect for swimming, sunbathing and various water sports.

    La Concha beach in San Sebastián
    La Concha Beach

    Zurriola Beach

    Another beautiful beach is Zurriola, located on the other side of the river in the Gros neighborhood. This beach is very popular for surfing, but not so much for swimming because of its strong currents and big waves.

    Zuriolla beach in the evening
    Zuriolla beach in the evening

    Exquisite Food

    One of the reasons San Sebastian is worth visiting is its food. What makes the food here so special? It’s the ingredients, the fresh seafood, the local produce, and the artisan cheeses they use. The city’s rocky coastline bordered by rolling green hills and farmland, make this area great for fishing, farming, and gardening. The fresh seafood and produce are delivered almost immediately to the world-class restaurants.

    Tamboril restaurant in San Sebastián
    Tamboril, one of the Michelin-star restaurants in San Sebastián

    San Sebastián has a large number of Michelin-starred restaurants. You practically stumble upon them almost everywhere you go in this city. Some of the most renowned are Casa Unroll (3 Michelin stars), Kokotxa (3 Michelin star), Mirador de Ulia (3 Michelin star), Ikaitz (2 Michelin Stars), and Tamboril (1 Michelin stars).

    small snacks called pintos
    Pintxos, small snacks characteristic to the Basque Country

    But the city is especially famous for its pintxos (pronounced pin-chos), which are small snacks typically served in bars. These delicious bites are a huge part of Basque culture. You’ll find the best pintxo bars in the old town, especially the streets around the Basilica. And while strolling the old town, don’t miss the traditional Basque cheesecake, which is quite different from the one we have here, in the USA.

    It’s Home to the Oldest European Culture

    The Basques have one of Europe’s oldest and most unique cultures. Their language and traditions are very different from the rest of Spain, so there is a good reason why they consider themselves a distinct cultural group. They cherish their unique language, music and folklore and try to preserve them the best they can. Even their dances set them apart from the rest of Spain or Europe.

    Locals dressed in folk Basque costumes performing a dance
    Locals dressed in folk Basque costumes performing a dance

    If you want to experience the traditional Basque music and dances, San Sebastián is the place to go. Basque dances are performed on the old town streets, in plazas or public places at during all the festivities and celebrations in the Basque Country. In June, when we visited the city, they had traditional Basque dances every evening in Plaza de la Constitución.

    Lots of Places to Walk or Hike

    If you are looking to spend some time outdoors, San Sebastián has plenty of delightful places to stretch your legs.

    Mount Urgull

    Overlooking the Old Quarter, the summit of Monte Urgull and the 40 foot tall Christ statue at the top are visible from many points in the city. One of the nicest things to do in San Sebastián hike to the very top of the mountain. It’s really a nice walk that goes only in the shade, with breathtaking views. While the paths are nicely paved, there are some steep parts as well as stairs in some places.

    The walls of Castelo de la Mota at the top of Mount Urgull
    The walls of Castelo de la Mota at the top of Mount Urgull

    This is a great place to observe the city and the sea. The different paths around the area open up to many scenic lookout points that are hidden between leafy patches. At the very top of the mountain you’ll see upclose the Sagrado Corazon statue (the statue of Christ) as well as the fortifications and cannons of the Castelo de la Mota.

    View of Christ Statue at the top of Mount Urgull
    Christ Statue at the top of Mount Urgull

    La Concha Promenade (Paseo de la Concha)

    Next to La Concha Beach there is a long promenade that follows the bay, bordered by a wrought-iron balustrade. This is a great place for walking, cycling, or people-watching. The lively promenade offers great views of La Concha Bay and Santa Clara Island. It also passes by opulent looking buildings, such as the emblematic Londres Hotel and Miramar Palace.

    view of Paseo de la Concha
    Paseo de la Concha

    Don’t miss the famous Clocks scattered along the promenade, which the locals use as meeting points. Also located on the promenade is the famous thermal springs spa of La Perla. This is the only center of thalassotherapy in town, reminiscent of the time when San Sebastián was a spa city.

    Mount Igueldo

    Located on the western side of La Concha Beach is Monte Igueldo, a leafy mountain that features a funicular train, great views and even a roller coaster. As you ascend the mountain on the funicular, you will enjoy the stunning panoramic view of San Sebastián. Once at the top, you can go on a roller coaster and a few other amusement park rides that operate at the top of the mountain. 

    Spectacular view from the top of Mt. Igueldo

    Having been up to both peaks in San Sebastián, I think visiting Mt. Igueldo is truly worth it for the views, which are absolutely amazing. Also, if you don’t want to spend money on the funicular (€2.80) you can also hike to the top.

    funicular at Mt. Igueldo
    The funicular at Mt. Igueldo

    It Has Interesting Museums

    If you have time for museums, you’ll find quite a few worth visiting in Donostia-San Sebastian. Like Eurika! Science Museum, San Telmo Museum, which is housed in an ancient convent in San Telmo, Museum of Sacred Art, or History House in the Castillo de la Mota at the top of Monte Urgull, where you can find out about the history of San Sebastián.

    images from the museums of San Sebastián
    Museums in Donostia-San Sebastian

    Cons of Visiting San Sebastián

    After listing so many good reasons to visit San Sebastián, you may be wondering what could be the cons. Well, like I promised in my title, this will be an unbiased review of San Sebastián where I’ll give both the good and the bad and let you decide whether it’s worth visiting or not.

    The Weather is Totally Unpredictable

    If you decide to visit San Sebastián, be prepared for rain. You may like the lush, green vegetation and cooler temperatures during the summer, but there is a reason for this. San Sebastián receives more rainfall than almost anywhere else in Spain, with an average 59 inches of rain per year. The rainiest months are October to January, but it rains often and during every season. Even in summer.

    Rainy day in San Sebastián
    Rainy day in June in San Sebastián

    You can count that on one of the summer months will be a rainy mess, but the other two will usually be warm and sunny. The problem is you never know which month will be the rainy one. And when it rains, it rains! If you are lucky, it’s just a short shower. But sometimes it rains for a few hours and often it rains for days in a row.

    It’s Expensive

    Generally, San Sebastián is rated as a moderately expensive city, but that was not our experience. When compared to other European city, San Sebastián is among the top 15% most expensive cities in Europe.

    They say that on average, a visitor can spend about $150 per day when visiting San Sebastian, while a couple would spend an average of $267 per day. Of course, prices will vary a lot based on the travel style and length of trip. But if you stay at moderately priced hotels, eat at affordable restaurants, and use public transportation, this is what you can expect to pay.

    However, if you want to go to a couple of Michelin restaurants, stay in the center of the city where you can walk practically everywhere, or rent a car for day trips, the price per day will jump considerably.

    It Has Big Crowds

    San Sebastián is a popular beach town with a beautiful seashore and a charming old town. The problem is that it’s not very big, so if you plan to visit it during the summer time, when the weather is nice and your chances of getting rain are slimmer, you’ll be faced with big crowds. That’s especially a problem at La Concha Beach, or when you try to get a seat at one of the bars or restaurants in the Old Quarter.

    big crows on a narrow street in Donostia
    Big crowds in Donostia-San Sebastián

    Streets will also be very crowded and sometimes you’ll have to walk almost shoulder to shoulder with other people.

    Unfriendly Locals

    We travel extensively through Europe and by comparison I can safely say that locals in the Basque region aren’t exactly friendly, or willing to help. They seem rather impatient and uninterested in you, as a tourist. This is especially true for San Sebastián, which sees a lot of visitors every year.

    We had quite a few experiences within the five days we’ve spent there and in almost all circumstances we received average or poor service. Waiters who wouldn’t show up to take the order, or were obviously annoyed by merely asking for another drink. Shopkeepers who wouldn’t acknowledge our presence and would continue their private conversation. Hotel receptionists who were very arrogant and patronizing, and so on.

    Who is San Sebastian Best Suited For?

    San Sebastián is a perfect blend of natural landscapes and city attractions. Home to the world’s finest food, wine, art, and so much more! Because of its luxurious appeal, the city has always been a retreat for royalty and European aristocracy, which is why I believe it’s perfect for travelers looking for relaxation, culture and gastronomy.

    It is also a great city for couples looking for a romantic getaway or in search of a serene seaside retreat.

    people visiting San Sebastián
    Visiting San Sebastián

    In short, if you love the outdoors, you’ll find plenty of opportunities for hiking, surfing, and water sports in San Sebastián. And if you like to discover new dishes and wines, you’ll be in Heaven here!

    A Final Note

    So, is San Sebastián worth visiting? After reading both the pros and cons, I’m pretty sure your answer will be yes! In San Sebastián you’ll experience some of the best food in Spain, enjoy gorgeous scenery, visit beautiful museums and learn a few things about the oldest culture in Europe.

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  • The Best Greek Islands Itinerary for Tree Weeks in Greece

    The Best Greek Islands Itinerary for Tree Weeks in Greece


    If you are planning to visit some of the Greek Islands and need to decide which ones to include in your itinerary, this post is for you. Our journey takes you to the most popular islands in Greece, which I’m sure you will enjoy as much as we did.

    Ever since our road trip in the Peloponnese we fell in love with Greece. So the following year we decided to visit some of the islands as well. We started with the Ionian Islands, visiting Zakynthos, Kefalonia, Lefkada, Ithaca and Corfu. This year we continued with Mykonos, Santorini and Crete.

    image from Mykonos, one of the most popular Greek Islands
    Mykonos, one of the most popular Greek Islands

    If this is your first trip to the Greek Islands you should definitely include Mykonos and Santorini in your itinerary. Although not my favorite ones, these are two of the most popular Greek Islands and are surely worth a visit. Crete, on the other hand, is an absolute must and you should make it a point not to miss it.

    About This Itinerary

    Because our Greek Islands itinerary was three weeks long I will not do a day-by-day breakdown. Instead, I will tell you how many days is worth spending on each island and what you can visited there. I’ll also tell you where to stay, what to pack and what’s the best time to visit.

    Greek Islands Itinerary map
    Greek Islands Itinerary map

    One thing I need to mention is that we visited these islands independently, not on an organized trip. We traveled to Greece by plane, then rented a car and moved from island to island by ferry. If you are interested in organized trips for the Islands, there are many tour operators who offer them.

    Best Time to Visit the Greek Islands

    After visiting Greece many times over the years, we strongly believe that the best time to visit the Greek Islands is the fall. September and October enjoy great weather, with very little rain and temperatures in the mid 70s. The water is still warm enough for swimming and the crowds are much smaller. The prices are also lower, which is a big plus.

    image depicting fall time in the Greek Islands
    Fall time in the Greek Islands

    However, the months of June, July and August are considered the peak season for the Greek Islands, as most people take their vacations in summer. Many Europeans travel to Greece in summer, despite the high temperatures which are hard to bear, raising sometimes above 100ºF (37-39ºC).

    Spring is also considered a good time for visiting the islands. Temperatures are very pleasant for walking and sunbathing, but the water doesn’t warm up for swimming until mid June.

    What to Pack for Your Greek Islands Itinerary

    Packing for Greece is generally easy as you won’t need any fancy attire or special clothing, like when you pack for Patagonia for instance. But if you travel to Greece in the fall, I recommend packing both summer and autumn clothes, as it may get a little cooler at night at this time of year. So here are some items that shouldn’t be missing from your luggage:

    image depicting people dressed for the Greek Islands
    How to dress in the Greek Islands

    Swimsuits, sandals, a hat and your snorkeling gear. The water is very warm and you’ll be definitely swimming every day. Lightweight clothes. Greece is just the right place for wearing cotton and linen clothes. If you decide to visit the Greek islands in the fall, make sure to pack a light jacket or even a raincoat. Although temperatures will be in the upper 70s (24-25ºC) during the day, it may get a little cooler in the evening.

    How to Travel Between the Islands

    While not the only option, the best way to explore the Greek Islands is by car. If you have a car you’ll be able to access secluded beaches, villages, and scenic viewpoints that might be difficult to reach with public transport. That’s especially true for larger islands, like Crete.

    For this itinerary, we rented a car in Mykonos then traveled from island to island by ferry. Most ferries allow cars to be brought onboard, which enables you to travel between different islands with your vehicle. Ferries are the fastest and most convenient way to travel between the islands.

    Image depicting a ferry boat traveling between the Greek Islands
    The ferry boat is the most convenient way to travel between the Greek islands

    However, ferries aren’t cheap in Greece. Sometimes they are even more expensive than airfare tickets. That’s especially true for the Aegean Sea ferries which incur higher sea transportation costs than those in the Ionian Sea. Traveling by plane is more time consuming, so I believe it’s worth paying a little extra for the ferry.


    Greek Islands Itinerary – Mykonos, Delos, Santorini & Crete


    Day 1: Arriving in Athens

    If you come from overseas, you’ll most likely land in Athens which is a big hub for international flights. From Athens we flew to Mykonos where we rented a car and then traveled from island to island by ferry.

    Flying is the fastest option to reach Mykonos. It’s a short 45 minute flight from Athens. There is also the option of renting a car in Athens and going to Mykonos by ferry, but that’s a way longer and more complicated route which we do not recommend for this Greek Islands itinerary.

    Planning your arrival time in Athens is very important because it has to be coordinate with the departure flight to Mykonos. However, we didn’t find this very difficult as Aegean Airlines has many connections between these two destinations. And you don’t even need to change the terminal.

    If you never visited Athens before, you may choose to extend your Greek Islands itinerary by spending a few days in Athens. And if you have more time to spare, there are many interesting day trips from Athens that you can take, one of which is a day trip to Delphi, a very interesting archeological site.

    Day 2 – 4: Mykonos

    We spent 3 days in Mykonos and felt this was just about the right amount of time for this island.

    image depicting a beautiful beach in the Greek Islands
    Beautiful beach in Mykonos

    Mykonos is a very small, barren island with a total area of around 85.5 square kilometers (33 square miles). The biggest attraction on the island is Mykonos Town, a charming maze of narrow alleys with blue-white houses, colorful bougainvilleas, and a great array of small luxury boutiques and fancy restaurants.

    images from Mykonos Town
    Mykonos Town

    The small neighborhood of Little Venice and the iconic windmills are definitely must-see spots for picturesque views, especially at sunset. Also, the seaside walkway that starts at the Old Port and continues all the way to the windmills is indeed mesmerizing and definitely worth experiencing.

    Where to Stay in Mykonos

    Despite being a small island, Mykonos has a big concentration of luxury hotels and resorts. Since most of the action takes place around Mykonos Town, travelers prefer to stay in this area. So the decision you’ll have to make is whether to stay in Mykonos Town, where you’ll have easy access to most nightlife, shopping, and restaurants, or book a hotel a little farther away and enjoy more peace a quiet. We opted for the latter option and did not regret it.

    Images from St. John Hotel in Mykonos
    St. John Hotel and Resort in Mykonos

    We stayed at Saint John Hotel Villas & Spa, a beautiful resort located about 10-15 minutes away from Mykonos Town. This hotel was one of the best deals you could make on this island, considering the luxurious facilities they have, the spectacular grounds and the opulent breakfast they offered. They also have free parking, which on this small island is a big plus.

    Ferry from Mykonos to Santorini

    The best connection between Mykonos and Santorini is the high speed ferry Worldchampion Jet, departing at 9:50 am from Mikonos and arriving at 11:50 am in Santorini.

    Day 5: Delos

    After visiting Mykonos we took a day trip to the small island of Delos, which is a very significant archeological site in Greece. The island which is considered the sacred birthplace of Gods Apollo and Artemis, is a very important cultural destination with extensive ancient ruins, temples and mosaics. If you are in Mykonos, make sure you don’t miss this important UNESCO World Heritage Site.

    images depicting the archeological site in Delos
    Archeological site in Delos

    Most people visit Delos on a day trip from Mykonos. To get to Delos you can take the ferry boat from the old port in Mykonos Town. The journey takes around 30-40 minutes. On the island you can book a guided tour, or you can visit the archeological site independently. 

    Day 6 – 11: Santorini

    We spent days 6 to 11 of our Greek Islands itinerary in Santorini. But in retrospect we believe four full days on this island was too much. Two, or at the most three days would have been more than enough.

    Santorini is a volcanic island with a crescent-shaped caldera, half of which is submerged in water. It was created by one of the largest known eruptions around 3,600 years ago. The explosion was so powerful that it wrecked Santorini’s ancient city of Akrotiri and completely destroyed the Minoan civilization, which had settled on the island at the time.

    images from Oil town in Santorini
    Images from Santorini

    The biggest attraction in Santorini is the caldera and the two towns of Oia and Fira perched on its cliffside. Both these towns are very romantic, with luxurious villas and resorts that enjoy breathtaking views.

    View of the Santorini Caldera from the town of Oil
    Santorini, view of the caldera

    Pictures and drone footages from Santorini would do some justice to the beauty of the caldera. But when you see it in person you understand why Santorini is on almost every Greek Islands itinerary.

    Where to Stay in Santorini

    There are many places where you can stay on this island, but I believe choosing a hotel somewhere between Fira and Oia would be the most convenient location. There are many accommodations in the towns of Fira or Oia, because both cities offer stunning views of the caldera and easy access to amenities and attractions.

    image depicting Santorini hotels
    Santorini hotels

    As expected, both these locations are pricier than other parts of the island, but they are also spectacular.

    We stayed at Azanti Suites which are located right in the middle of the caldera, about 15 minutes drive to Fira. We had free self parking and free breakfast served in the room. The suites face the caldera and have beautiful terraces with a private pool or jacuzzi.

    Ferry from Santorini to Crete

    There is only one ferry that connects Santorini to Crete: PowerJet, that departs Santorini at 16:05 and arrives in Heraklion at 17:55. From Heraklion we drove to Agios Nikolaos, which was our base for exploring the eastern side of Crete.

    Day 12-20: Crete

    Crete is huge! It’s the largest island in Greece and also the fifth largest island in the Mediterranean Sea. It measures about 3,260 square miles (8,450 square kilometers) and is located 62 miles south of the Peloponnese.

    Beautiful beach in Crete
    Beautiful beach in Crete

    Crete is also one of the most varied and beautiful islands that we have ever visited. It has gorgeous beaches, tall mountains, hundreds of canyons and gorges, interesting archeological sites, historic towns and coastal resorts.

    images of a canyon in Crete
    Canyon in Crete

    Because it’s the biggest Greek island, we decided to divide our itinerary into two parts: we spent the first five days in the eastern part of the island the other five on the western side. This way we didn’t have to drive for more than 1.5-2 hours to reach our points of interest.

    How Much Time to Spend in Crete

    Because it’s so big and diverse, Crete deserves minimum a week to be able to get a glimpse of some of its marvels. However, we spent 10 days on this island and felt this was not enough. Distances between the different points of interest are huge, so plan at least 7-8 days.

    What You Can Do on the East Side Crete

    Crete is jam-packed with history – especially around the Bronze Age ‘Minoan civilization’ which originated in Crete and is regarded by many as the oldest in Europe. So you can wander around the Minoan Palace of Zakros, visit the ruins of Knosos Palace, or the remains of the Venetian castle on Spinalonga Island..

    Another big point of interest on the east side of Crete is Heraklion, a port city and the island’s capital. Here you’ll find interesting museums, beautiful cathedrals, Knosos Palace and Roca a Mare Fortress.

    Knosos Palace
    Knosos Palace

    On this side of the island you’ll have many wonderful beaches like Glaros, Vathi, Itanos, or China. Sadly the driving distances between them are big, so depending on how much time you have at hand you’ll have to choose which ones to visit.

    If you like hiking, Crete is home to a great array of beautiful canyons and landscapes of stunning scenery. You can hike the Martsallo Gorge, take a journey across the Lasithi Plateau to explore the Cave of Zeus, or wander around the many small fishing villages around this side of the island, like Elounda, Agios Nikolaos, or Plaka.

    What to Do on the Western Side of Crete

    The western side of Crete is absolutely stunning. While the eastern side is flatter and less visually striking, the western side has a more wild and dramatic appeal, with a rugged coastline, lush green landscapes, and imposing mountains.

    Here you’ll find the renowned white sand beaches like Elafonisi, Balos, or Kedrodassos Beach. Also on this side you have the spectacular White Mountains and the famous Samaria Gorge, as well as many charming coastal towns like Chania, Rethymno, or Loutro.

    images depicting the town of Rethymno
    Rethymno town

    Where to Stay on the Eastern Side in Crete

    Depending on how much time you have for this island, I recommend staying in two or three places. Distances are big here, so the idea is to spend less time driving and more time having fun.

    We spent the first five days of our Crete itinerary on the eastern side of Crete, in Agios Nikolaos. This is a very picturesque coastal town with plenty of accommodations for all budgets. We rented an apartment at the Pleiades Luxurious Villas, a beautiful resort that features villas with private pools. We didn’t need all this space, but prices were very affordable in October, so we splurged.

    Where to Stay on the Western Side in Crete

    The best place to stay on the western side is in Chania, which in my opinion is the most beautiful town in Crete. However, parking as well as getting in and out of this town is rather difficult. If you don’t want to struggle with that, I suggest either looking for a hotel with parking (which are not very many), or staying somewhere else along the coast.

    The old lighthouse of Chain
    The Old Lighthouse of Chania

    We stayed at Belmondo Hotel & Suites which is located on the edge of the water, right across from the Old Lighthouse. But we also discovered a nice resort about 15 minutes drive from Chania, called Zorba’s Beach Village Hotel. This would also be a good place to stay when exploring this part of Crete.

    Day 21: Return to Athens

    This was our final day of our Greek Islands itinerary. Since it’s a very long trip by ferry (8-13 hours), we chose to fly back to Athens from Chania. There is also the option of flying to Athens from Heraklion, if you are on the eastern part of Crete.

    image depicting an airplane for Athens
    Traveling by plane to Athens

    Aegean Airlines has numerous flights between Crete and Athens, but it’s better to take an earlier flight. Also, if your final destinations is in the US, I recommend spending one night in Athens to make sure you won’t miss your final flight in case of delays or cancellations.

    A Final Word

    This sums up our three-week Greek Islands itinerary. I hope this post gives you an idea of what to expect when visiting this part of Greece.

    We absolutely loved these islands, especially Crete, and believe they make a great destination for any type of vacation. Whether you are young or old, a big family with small children or just a couple, be assured that the Greek Islands will not disappoint you.

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  • Is Mykonos Worth Visiting, or It’s an Overrated Island?

    Is Mykonos Worth Visiting, or It’s an Overrated Island?


    If this is your first time in Mykonos and you are not sure whether it’s worth visiting, keep reading. You may have heard a lot about this island and maybe not all of it was good. Yes, Mykonos is one of Greece’s most popular islands, yet people have very mixed feelings about it. Some say it’s crowded, touristy and overhyped. Others say it’s their favorite Greek island for its beauty, activities and nightlife. So who is right?

    image of Mykonos town, one of the reasons to visit Mykonos
    Mykonos

    Like with everything in life, attractiveness depends on the perspective of the beholder; meaning that beauty is subjective and influenced by individual experiences and cultural norms. What one person finds attractive, another might not. That being said, there are both good and bad things to be said about Mykonos and once you are aware of them you can decide whether the island it’s worth visiting or not.

    How did Mykonos gain its fame?

    Mykonos is a very small, barren island with a total area of around 85.5 square kilometers (33 square miles) and a population of only 10 thousand permanent residents. Landscape wise, it doesn’t even compare to other lush Greek islands like Crete, Kefalonia, or Corfu. Then why is it so popular?

    Back in the 1950’s Mykonos was a simple fishing island where the most common sights were fishing boats in the harbor and handcrafts.

    However that changed in the 1960s, when celebrities like Jackie Kennedy and Aristotle Onassis began frequenting the island. That helped Mykonos establish itself as a luxurious destination with a cosmopolitan vibe, a vibrant nightlife and a gay-friendly scene.

    image of St. John Hotel resort in Mykonos
    St. John Hotel & Resort

    Mykonos was successful at attracting wealthy entrepreneurs because the island felt like it had no rules. More and more tourists who wanted to escape their work-dominated routines and enjoy a bohemian lifestyle started flocking here, so Mykonos became their paradise.

    What is worth visiting on Mykonos Island

    Although it’s not one of my favorite Greek islands, Mykonos has quite a few nice places to visit.

    Mykonos Town

    The biggest attraction on the island is Mykonos Town (a.k.a Chora), a charming maze of narrow alleys with blue-white houses, colorful bougainvilleas, and a great array of small luxury boutiques and fancy restaurants. When visiting Mykonos Town, you shouldn’t miss:

    The Iconic Windmills

    These are especially beautiful at sunset. The whitewashed, rounded windmills with pointed roofs and small windows were once an important source of income for the island’s inhabitants.

    Is Mikonos worth visiting
    The windmills in Mykonos town

    The Church of Panagia Paraportiani

    This unique church located in the Kastro neighborhood is one of the most photographed churches in Greece. The special thing about the church is that it consists of five small churches, built one on top or next to the other. The five churches were not constructed at once, but gradually over the centuries.

    image depicting Panagia Paraportiani in Mykonos
    Panagia Paraportiani

    Little Venice Neighborhood

    Little Venice is one of the places truly worth visiting on Mykonos island. It is not only pretty and romantic, but also very authentic. The neighborhood is packed with colorful old houses hanging precariously on the edge of the land.

    Little Venice neighborhood in Mykonos Town
    Little Venice neighborhood

    Many of these historic homes have been transformed into a variety of cozy restaurants, trendy bars, shops and nightclubs, overlooking the sea.

    Matoyianni Street

    Matogianni (Matoyianni) is the most popular street in Mykonos for a good reason. What makes it truly unique is its cobblestone ground and white houses. There are beautiful flowers that embellish every corner as you walk by.

    image depicting Matoyianni Street, worth visiting in Mykonos
    Matoyianni Street

    But perhaps the biggest attractions on this street are the numerous boutiques and souvenir shops. If you want to go shopping in Mykonos, this is where you’d come.

    Old Port of Mykonos

    Mykonos has two ports, located about two kilometers apart: The Old Port which serves local boats and the New Port/Tourlos which serves ferries and all cruise ships that dock in Mykonos. While there is nothing special about the New Port, the Old Port has a lot going for it.

    image depicting the Old Port in Mykonos
    Old Port in Mykonos

    Located right in the heart of Mykonos Town, just behind Little Venice, the Old Port is full of life 24 hours a day. This is where you’ll find the traditional fish market as well as numerous shops, bars and restaurants.  Around its rocky dock you can still see the traditional wooden vessels used for fishing. The northern part of the Old Port is the spot from where many organized tours and small cruises depart.

    Also, don’t miss the seaside promenade lining the historic harbor in Mykonos Town. The walkway starts at the northern edge of the Old Port and continues all the way to the windmills. Walking alongside this promenade is an experience in itself.

    Delos Island

    If you are a fan of Greek mythology, a visit to the adjacent Delos island is a must and an adventure that you shouldn’t miss if you are in Mykonos. This is a historically significant ancient Greek site where you can explore well-preserved ruins including the Sanctuary of Apollo, the Terrace of the Lions, and other important monuments.

    images depicting the archeological site on Delos Island
    Delos Archeological site

    Delos is an uninhabited island, so there are no lodging options, no airports and no direct ferries from mainland Greece. The only way to visit it is by booking a ferry from the closest island, which is Mykonos. During the summer months, ferry routes from other nearby islands (Naxos, Paros, Tinos, Syros) are also available.

    The Beaches

    Mykonos has many beautiful beaches, most of which have easy access, slowly descending water depths and crystal-clear waters. However, none of them compares to the beaches in Ithaca, Zakinthosh, or Crete.

    image of a crowded beach in Mykonos
    Remote beach in Mykonos

    Most of the beaches in Mykonos are very crowded, especially during the high season. But if you hire a boat you can get to some that are absolutely pristine.

    image depicting a pristine beach I Mykonos
    Pristine beach in Mykonos

    Some of the beaches worth visiting are:

    • Kalafatis Beach: A family-friendly beach on the southeastern coast of Mykonos
    • Psarou Beach: A romantic area with a waterfront and lively bars
    • Platis Gialos: A lively beach with loungers, umbrellas, bars, and restaurants 
    • Super Paradise Beach: A beach known for its parties and crystal-clear blue waters
    image of a restaurant in Mykonos.
    Restaurant next to the main beach in Mykonos

    The Downside of Visiting Mykonos

    There are quite a few drawbacks that make Mykonos less desirable than other Greek islands.

    The High Costs

    On the less positive side, the costs associated with visiting Mykonos are very high. Starting with accommodations and continuing with boat rentals and restaurants, everything is insanely expensive on this island.

    image of jewelry stores in Mykonos town
    Jewelry stores in Mykonos Town

    To say nothing about the stores, most of which sell designer clothes, handbags and jewelry at prices that are even higher than the ones you’ll find in the department stores in Paris!

    The Barren Landscape

    Another disappointment is the island’s landscape, which is relatively flat with few hilly areas and completely barren. It’s mostly rocky, arid terrain with very little vegetation and a lack of rivers. This is a typical feature of the Cycladic islands in Greece. And for this reason, Mykonos is not a hiking friendly destination.

    image depicting the barren landscape of Mykonos
    Barren landscape on Mykonos island

    The Roads

    Roads in Mykonos are narrow and overcrowded with cars, busses, trucks, mopeds and quads. The pavements are either shattered (and often lined with trash) or non-existent. You can also throw potholes into the mix.

    The Crowds

    Perhaps the most annoying thing in Mykonos are the huge crowds. The island is jam packed with tourists not only during the peak season, but almost throughout the year. We visited late October, which is the end of the shoulder season, and every single day there were 4-5 big cruise ships anchored in the port.

    If you consider that each of these cruise ships carries a minimum of 5000 passengers, that means that at least 25,000-30,000 people roam around the small streets of Mykonos town at the same time.

    This is in addition to the thousands of tourists that are already on the island and those that arrived daily from the main land in big busses via ferry boats. Overtourism makes it difficult to find a quiet, peaceful spot to relax on the island and will eventually lead to environmental degradation, affecting local ecosystems and local communities.

    When should you visit Mykonos?

    High season in Mykonos is June to September, so hotel prices are at their highest and the beaches, restaurants and nightclubs are packed. Summer is also party time, so expect concerts and loud music everywhere. Not to mention XLSIOR in August, a five-day clubbing festival that attracts some 30,000 gay revelers!

    Shoulder season (April to early June, late September and October) is arguably a more pleasant time to visit. The temperatures are lower while the water is still perfect for swimming. However, don’t expect empty beaches or low accommodation prices.

    image deicting Mykonos in October
    Visiting Mykonos in October

    In winter is too cold for sunbathing and swimming, but that’s the only time of the year when you’ll see empty beaches and plenty of bargain accommodations. The good thing is that many of the restaurants in Mykonos stay open year-round, unlike on other Greek islands. On the less positive side, winter can bring fierce storms and ferries are limited.

    How much time should you spend on Mykonos?

    We spent 3 full days in Mykonos and felt this was just about the right amount of time for this island. We spent the mornings exploring the beaches and the afternoons visiting the shops, restaurants and bars of Mykonos Town. One afternoon we caught a boat to the sacred island of Delos.


    How to get to Mykonos?

    There are frequent ferries that connect Mykonos Island with Athens’ ports of Rafina and Piraeus. During the high season the high-speed catamarans link Mykonos with numerous other Cycladic islands, including Santorini and Paros.

    Mykonos Airport also has year-round flights between Athens and many European destinations. Even though Mykonos is a small island, I would advise renting a car, moped or ATV to properly explore it.

    In Conclusion

    Whether Mykonos is worth visiting or not depends entirely on what you’re looking for in a vacation: if you want a vibrant nightlife scene, beautiful resorts, stunning whitewashed houses, and are okay with crowds and high prices, then Mykonos could be a great choice. 

    image of shops in Mykonos
    Shops in Mykonos

    On the other hand, if you prefer a more relaxed, budget-friendly experience, you might want to consider other Greek islands. Although is part of many Greek islands itineraries, Mykonos is considered a very touristy and expensive island. We liked it, but would not consider returning there. There are so many more beautiful islands to visit in Greece.

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  • How to Visit the Island in 10 Days

    How to Visit the Island in 10 Days


    Crete is the largest and most diverse of the Greek islands. It has something of interest for everyone: history and culture galore, beaches aplenty, soaring mountains, canyons, historic towns and interesting archeological sites. With so much to see and do in Crete, you’ll need a well planned itinerary if you want to explore the island properly.

    Crete Itinerary
    Chania, one of the places on your Crete Itinerary

    After visiting the Ionian islands, I thought the battle for my favorite Greek island was between Corfu and Ithaca, but I was wrong. Crete is now my favorite one for very many good reasons. It’s simply impossible to get bored there. I expected Crete would be lovely, but not THIS lovely!

    How to Explore Crete Properly

    One thing I need to mention from the beginning is that we visited Crete independently, as part of a 3-week Greek Islands Itinerary. If you are interested in visiting Crete on an organized trip, there are many tour operators who offer guided trips. However, with an organized trip you won’t be able to see as much as we did.

    We arrived in Athens by plane, then rented a car and moved from island to island by ferry. But if you don’t plan to visit other islands, you can fly to Crete directly from many cities in Europe. The island has two airports: one in Heraklion and one in Chania.

    If you plan to visit the entire island you’ll need to rent a car. There are car rental agencies at both Crete airports, as well as in the cities. While visiting Crete by public transportation is technically possible, it is very time-consuming and not at all convenient. However, many people choose to limit their explorations to one portion of the island, in which case using the bus system may work.

    How Much Time to Spend in Crete

    Crete is really huge! It measures about 3,260 square miles (8,450 square kilometers. Just to give you an idea, it’s nearly 100 times the size of Mykonos. Because it’s so big and diverse you’ll need a minimum 7 days in order to see some of its marvels. But if you truly want to enjoy Crete I would recommend planning a 10 to 14 days itinerary. We’ve spent 10 days on this island and felt it was not enough.

    Where to Stay When Visiting Crete

    I recommend staying in at least two places when visiting Crete. Distances are big here, so the idea is to spend less time driving and more time having fun.

    We spent the first five days of our itinerary on the eastern side of Crete, in Agios Nikolaos, and the next five on the western side, in Chania. This proved to be a good option because our driving time between the different points of interests didn’t exceed 2 hours (one way).

    Hotel in Crete
    Hotel in Chania, Crete

    Crete Itinerary – 10 Days

    We arrived by ferry from Santorini and started our itinerary on the eastern part of the island.

    Day 1: Agios Nikolaos

    Built atop the remains of an ancient city, Agios Nikolaos is an interesting mix of an artsy-sleepy and yet also bustling town. 

    The town’s landmark is Lake Voulismeni, known for its many legends. According to Greek Mythology, it the goddesses Athena and Artemis used to bathe in this lake. The sweet-water lake becomes one with the sea through a narrow canal that has red rock formations and lush vegetation all around. 

    Perhaps the most common thing to do in Agios Nikolaos is to enjoy some shopping in the downtown area. You can also walk around the marina, which is a very colorful and lively place, or sit in one of the seaside cafés.

    Crete itinerary - Agios Nikolaos city
    Aerial view of Agios Nikolaos

    In the afternoon you can delve into the history of the Minoan civilization at the Archaeological Museum of Agios Nikolaos. The museum features a collection of exhibits showcasing their culture and life. Or you may choose to spend the rest of the day at the beach.

    view of the main beach in Agios Nikolaos
    Main beach in Agios Nikolaos

    Day 2: Elounda & Spinalonga Island

    In the morning you can visit Elounda, a charming seaside town located within the municipality of Agios Nikolaos. Elounda has several nice beaches, including the main beach of Plaka, which is a pebble beach. Or you can go to Driros, a sandy beach perfect for swimming, sunbathing, and water sports. 

    walking along the harbor in Elounda
    Walking along the harbor in Elounda

    Another interesting thing you can do in Elounda is explore the ancient sunken city of Olous, a significant archeological site. Or you can stop by the church of Agios Konstandinou Kai Elenis to admire some stunning frescoes. 

    In the afternoon take a boat trip to Spinalonga Island, a former leper colony. This is a very enjoyable trip that you shouldn’t miss when visiting this side of Crete. On Spinalonga you can explore the Venetian Fortress as well the ruins of an abandoned village.

    view of Spinalonga island
    Spinalonga Island

    Practical Information for Visiting Spinalonga Island

    Boats for Spinalonga Island depart daily around 12:30 pm from the main port in Agios Nikolaos and drop you off on the island and will pick you up around 5 pm. Boats to Spinalonga from Elounda run every 30 minutes during the tourist season. The cost is €20/person.

    images of the Venetian fortress on Spinalonga island
    The Venetian fortress on Spinalonga island

    Most people explore the island on their own, because it’s really very small, but there are also group tours if that’s what you are after. Admission fee for Spinalonga Island is €8 for adults and free for students and under 18. There’s a cafe, toilets and a souvenir shop on the island, near the port.

    Day 3: Vai Palm Beach & Lassithi

    Today’s itinerary will take you to the easternmost part of Crete, at one of the most spectacular beaches on the island: Vai Palm Beach. To reach it you’ll have to cross the Dikti Mountain range, also known as the Lassithi Plateau. This is a major mountain range that runs through the Lassithi region, one of the most remote and authentic parts of Crete! The drive takes about 1.5 hours from Agios Nikolaos.

    Driving through the Lassithi Plateau
    Driving through the Lassithi Plateau

    The road across the mountains is absolutely spectacular, winding around the shore and unveiling unbelievably beautiful views. Along the way you’ll pass through lush forests, fertile green fields dotted with orchards, almond trees and the remains of ancient windmills, cradled by the rugged mountains of the Dikti range.

    image depicting people visiting Vii beach on a Crete itinerary
    Vai Palm Beach

    Vai is a very beautiful beach surrounded by a patch of palm trees, which are rather unusual for Greece. The beach has chairs and umbrellas but is a little too crowded for my taste.

    However, if you don’t mind a short hike, to the right of Vai Beach there is a small golf that hides a nude beach. If you don’t mind the nakedness, this one is truly beautiful and just perfect for swimming and sunbathing.

    image of a nude beach next to Vai Palm beach
    Nude beach next to Vii Palm Beach in Crete

    Day 4: Heraklion (Knossos Palace), Heronissos, Zeus’ Cave

    On the 4th day of your itinerary you will be heading towards Heraklion, a port city and the capital of Crete. Here you’ll be visiting the ancient Knossos Palace, a major center of the Minoan civilization dating back to approximately 2000-1350 BCE.

    Visiting Knossos Palace on a Crete Itinerary
    Knossos Palace

    This is one of Europe’s oldest cities and a very interesting archeological site. However, if you want to visit buy your ticket at the archeological museum because the queue is horrendously long. There were literally hundreds of people waiting in the boiling sun when we were there!

    In the afternoon go to one of the beautiful beaches in Heronissos. This bustling resort town is located on the northern coast of Crete, about 26 km east of Heraklion. The beaches in this area are relatively narrow with very limited space for sunbathing. Nonetheless they are very, very scenic and truly worth a stop.

    Beautiful beach in Heronissos

    Another option for the afternoon is a visit to the Cave of Zeus, also known as the Idaean Cave of Antiquity. The cave is about 60 km away from Heraklion, on your way back to Agios Nikolaos. Zeus’ Cave is in a rather remote place, on the slopes of Mount Ida. Along the way you’ll come across many goats and sheep herds.

    images depicting Zeus' Cave in Crete
    Zeus’ Cave

    Even if you’re not a fan of Greek mythology you’ll stillenjoy exploring this stalagmite and stalactite-filled cavern. Also, the views of the surrounding valley at the top are stunning!

    Day 5: Rethymno & Drive to Chania

    On the 5th day of our itinerary we left Agios Nikolaos and the eastern part of Crete and started towards the west side. The driving distance is 200 km, which takes roughly 3 hours. Along the way we stopped in Rethymno, one of the best-preserved Venetian old towns on the island of Crete.

    people waling in Rethmno old town
    Old Town Rethymno

    Its 16th-century buildings are beautiful examples of ancient architecture. In the old town, the Venetian Harbor is filled with fishing boats and lined with tavernas. Here you can roam around for hours, checking out the quirky boutiques filled with hand crafted souvenirs.

    images from Rethymno Old town
    Images from Rethymno Old Town

    Atop the acropolis of Rethymno the Venetians erected a beautiful star-shaped fortress known as Fortezza, built in the late 16th century, which showcases both European and Moorish influences.

    image of the Venetian Fortress in Crete
    The Venetian Fortress in Rethymno

    There are quite a few parts of the fortress still standing today, among which: the eastern gate complex where the Venetian emblem of St. Mark’s Lion was placed, the gunpowder warehouse, the artillery warehouse, a few bastions, the Holy Spirit’s Ledge, the Counselor’s residence, Catherine’s Church and Sultan Ibrahim Khan’s Mosque.

    Day 6: Chania & Zorba’s Beach

    Located on the northwest coast if Crete, Chania is the island’s oldest and most beautiful city dating back over 5000 years. The city was built around a Venetian port and is considered one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in Europe. Its historic center is a lovely labyrinth of narrow streets full of small shops, restaurants, and buildings with historical and architectural interest. 

    Chania

    There are plenty of attractions in Chania, from ancient sites, museums, churches and castles. But perhaps the most appealing part of the town is its old Venetian harbor which was built in the 14th century for commercial purposes and for protection against pirate raids.

    The old lighthouse in Chania
    The Old Lighthouse in Chania

    You can spend hours here, strolling the the long promenade lined with cafes and restaurants. This is a a much-photographed place with a touch of magic!

    view of the seaside promenade in Chania
    The seaside promenade in Chania

    In the afternoon I recommend going to Zorba’s Beach, a calm and less touristy beach located just a short drive away from Chania, in the Akrotiri peninsula.

    Zorba's Beach
    Zorba’s Beach

    The actual name of the beach is Stavros Beach, but since 1964 when the iconic movie “Zorba the Greek” was filmed here, the beach has become famous and is now known as Zorba’s Beach.

    imge depicting chairs and a table on the beach
    The little beach in front of Zorba’s Beach Hotel

    The beach offers a very subdued and authentic experience, which is far from the embellishments of Hollywood. To the left of the beach there is a small resort called Zorbas Beach Village Hotel where you can go for some refreshments.

    Day 7: Elafonissi Beach

    They say that no Crete itinerary would be complete without a trip to Elafonissi and I agree. Elafonissi is one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, so make sure you don’t miss it. Situated in the southwest corner of Crete, near the town of Elafonissi, the beach is famous for its pink-tinted sand created by the presence of crushed seashells and red coral fragments.

    beach goer on Elafonissi Beach
    Elafonissi Beach

    However, temper your expectations as the amount of pink on display may vary with conditions and the season. Regardless, the crystal clear waters and huge stretch of sand make this the most popular beach in Crete.

    Although most of the time it is very crowded, if you keep walking you’ll surely find a spot where you can enjoy a little privacy. The drive from Chania is about 1 hour and 20 minutes, but the road is packed, especially during the summer.

    People on Elafonissi Beach in Crete
    Elafonissi Beach

    To reach Elafonissi, you’ll have to cross the White Mountains, which are absolutely spectacular, but the road may be a little scary at times. In some areas there are no guard rails and you can also come across narrow parts with blind turns.

     difficult road Elafonissi Beach
    Difficult road to Elafonissi Beach

    To avoid the crowds both on the road and at the beach, visit early in the morning or in the evening, when most people have left.

    Also, hike up to the neighboring cedar tree reserves for a change of scenery.

    Day 8: Chora Sfakia & Vrisi Beach

    On our 8th day we intended to see some of Crete’s most beautiful beaches that can only be accessed by boat, located between the fishing villages of Sfakia and Loutro. Unfortunately it was a windy day on the see and the boats didn’t want to depart, so we decided to stop in Sfakia which is a very beautiful destination.

    The road to Sfakia is an adventure in itself, crossing the beautiful White Mountains and passing through beautiful gorges and scenic landscapes.

    driving through the White Mountains in Crete
    Driving through the White Mountains in Crete

    In Sfakia you can walk around the village and enjoy an authentic lunch at one of the many restaurants in the harbor where you can enjoy Cretan salads, Sfakian pies and fresh local seafood.

    Vie of Vrisi Beach in Saki
    Vrisi Beach in Sfakia

    In the afternoon I suggest visiting the quiet little pebble beach of Vrisi to enjoy some sun and blue water. The beach, which lies to the west of the town, hosts a beach club where you can rent two sun beds and an umbrella for €10.

    Day 9: Paleochora & Sailboat Trip to Theodorou Island

    Today you can drive to Paleochora, a charming village located on the south-west side of Crete. After strolling around the harbor, head to Pachia Amos Beach, which is the main beach in Paleochora. This is a huge stretch of golden sand with plenty of space to spread out, beach bars, sunbeds and umbrellas.  

    Pachia Amos Beach in Paleochora
    Pachia Amos Beach in Paleochora

    But if you are looking for a more natural and secluded beach, carry on to the far west end of the beach. Here you’ll come across some odd nudist beaches and of course plenty of gorgeous water to dive into. 

    One I can recommend is Chalikia, which in contrast to Pachia Ammos is a rocky beach but less busy than its sandy neighbor. The beach has umbrellas and sunbeds for hire.

    image depicting Chalikia Beach in Crete
    Chalikia Beach

    In the afternoon we took a sailboat trip to Theodorou Island, which I can highly recommend. However, don’t do the sunset tour as late in the evening it gets very windy on this part of Crete.

    Theodorou Island is a barren, small, uninhabited islet situated close to the shore village of Platanias, northwest of Chania. The island was once home to a Venetian fortress that was constructed in the 16th century for defense purposes.

    Sailboat trip to Theodorou Island

    You can still see ruins of the fortification on the island today. Unfortunately tourists are not allowed to disembark because the island is also home to a number of endangered Cretan goats (Kri- Kri) which are protected. Those animals were close to extinction and only live in a few places in Crete, most certainly on the Thodorou island and in the Samaria Gorge as well. 

    Day 10: Kedrodasos Beach

    Kedrodasos is MY FAVORITE BEACH in Crete! A tranquil paradise of sand and water, a secret hidden treasure which I’m almost reluctant to write about for fear of making it too popular.

    image depicting a beach with black rocks
    Kedrodasos Beach

    What makes Kedrodasos beach so special is the fact that it’s very secluded. It lies behind an ancient and very unique juniper forest with a mix of white sand, black rock and crystal-clear blue water.

    The beach is located a short 20-minute hike from Elafonissi beach, but you can also reach it via a dirt road. The drive is only 10 minutes long, but from the top of the hill where you leave your car there is another 15 minutes walk to the beach.

    path towards Kedrodasos Beach
    The beginning of the path towards Kedrodasos Beach

    Because it is relatively hard to reach, Kedrodasoss enjoys a tranquil and secluded atmosphere, which makes it a favorite beach for nudists. This pristine, unspoiled environment comes in such a stark contrast with the more developed and commercialized beaches you’ll find anywhere else on Crete. 

    view of Kedrodasos Beach in Crete
    Kedrodasos Beach

    Reaching the beach from Chania means driving through the narrow steep road across the White Mountains, which is spectacular but difficult and time consuming. The drive itself is not very long, but you can’t go fast and the road is almost always crowded.

    mountain tunnel on the road to Kedrodasos beach
    Tunnel on the road to Kedrodasos Beach

    One thing to keep in mind if coming to this beach is that there are no restroom facilities, no potable water and no sunbeds or umbrellas. If you need shade during the day, you can go under one of the juniper trees behind the beach.

    Have you been to Crete before? Share your favorites from your visit in the comments below to help other travelers. See some of my favorite swimsuits for beach trips & best water shoes for Europe.

    Still have questions? Let me know in the Comments Section below.

    For more of our family’s travels follow me on Instagram, Facebook, and Pinterest!

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  • Is Level8 Adventurer Carry-on Better a Better Performer?

    Is Level8 Adventurer Carry-on Better a Better Performer?


    As travelers, we all know the importance of a good piece of luggage. Traveling is stressful enough, so minimizing the number of things that can go wrong on a trip is important. Aside from your passport, your suitcase is undoubtedly the most important thing you’ll have to rely on when you travel. But how do you know which one to choose when there are so many out there? In this post I’ll give you my honest opinion about a piece of luggage that truly convinced me: the Level8 Adventurer Carry-on.

    Level8 Adventurer Carry-on
    Level8 Adventurer Carry-on

    Why Choose Level8 Luggage

    A few years ago I tried my first Level8 suitcase. More precisely, the Level8 Pro Carry-on Spinner Luggage with front pocket and double TSA locks. And I truly fell in love with it! I’ve taken the suitcase on about 6-7 trips across the world already. Most of the time as a carry-on luggage, but I even checked it in a couple of times and it did hold up pretty well. No complaints so far.

    But then I discovered that Level8 came up with a new addition, the Adventurer Carry-on, so I decided to give it a try. So in this post I’ll give you my honest opinion about it.

    How Does Level8 Adventurer Differ from Other Carry-ons

    What I found most attractive about the Adventurer Carry-on is the front side-lid opening design which offers easier access to your cloths and maximizes the space in the main compartment. This also allows you to open your suitcase quickly in an airport, without having to place it flat on the floor. No more unzipping the whole bag!! It’s also convenient if you want to keep it open on a luggage rack in your hotel room.

    opened carry-on suitcase
    Side lid opening design

    The exterior material is German-made Makrolon® polycarbonate, while the interior: 100% RPET recycled polyester.

    image of a wide trolley handle
    Wide trolley handle

    Other Features:

    • Wide Trolley Handle: this suitcase offers an adjustable telescopic wide trolley handle. This revolutionary design is ultra-sturdy and provides enhanced stability. It also has the advantage of creating more interior space for packing.
    • Expandable zipper: this feature conveniently allows for further expansion of the suitcase. This gives you 5 liters and 24 inches extra space for travel essentials. It holds lots of stuff!
    • Dual-spinner wheels: this system with precision ball bearings ensures smooth handling and lasting durability, no matter the terrain. The wheels are not only smooth, but also very quiet.
    • TSA-approved lock: this not only ensures the security of your belongings, but also saves you from the inconvenience of having your lock permanently damaged during a routine security inspection.
    • Interior compression: this packing system keeps your belongings neatly secured during travel.
    image depicting dual-spinner wheels
    Dual-spinner wheels

    I really like the Level8 products! Although I have bought more expensive bags in the past, most of them lacked some of the features that this company provides. Plus I’m absolutely loving the striking yellow and black color scheme of the Adventurer Carry-on!

    dual zipper suitcase
    Dual-zipper

    The Best News

    The best news is that Level8 Adventurer meets all the requirements for any airline carry on. This is key for me, considering that the airlines changed the carry-on rules recently. With this suitcase and a good travel backpack I have all I needed for one or two weeks away for travel.

    Why Buy Level8 Adventurer Carry-on

    They offer a big variety of luggage for both check-in and carry on. But what’s more important, they put a lot of effort into building sturdy, reliable suitcases that are meant to last.

    What I mostly like is the reliability of their dual-spinner wheels system which delivers unmatched durability and an ultra-quiet ride. They are engineered with a Covestro AG polycarbonate case, designed to conquer Europe’s cobblestones with ease. What’s really impressive is the fact that they are backed by a lifetime guarantee. They also show less than 2mm of wear after an incredible 276,000 rotations. This is the quality test that most other brands fail.

    FOR 10% DISCOUNT ON ALL PRODUCTS, GO TO Level8 Catalog
    choose whatever you like and enter the exclusive code “agalffy10” when you check out. 

    Don’t Miss the Packing Cube Travel Set!

    If you want to pack even smarter, you can complete your Level8 Adventurer carry on with the 4-piece Packing Cube Travel Set. These are good for garments, gadgets, or grooming essentials and will make your packing way more efficient. A great way to keep your belongings dry and organized.

    The packing cubes are made of a two-tone polyester that fights mildew and repels water and have detachable rubber patches for quick identification. The cubes dimensions are as follows:

    Dimensions:
    Garment Cube: 18″L x 12″W x 4″D (46 x 31 x 10 cm)
    Journey Cube for Worn Attire or Footwear: 12″L x 9″W x 4″D (31 x 23 x 10 cm)
    Electronics Cube: 9″L x 5.9″W x 3.9″D (23 x 15 x 10 cm)
    Grooming & Beauty Essentials Pouch: 9″L x 5.9″W x 3.9″D (23 x 15 x 10 cm)

    Note: Level8 Group provided me with this suitcase for review. However, the opinions expressed in this article are based on my own experiences with this piece of luggage.



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