دسته: تجربیات سفر

The Greek island of Andros in the Cyclades, offers a network of well marked hiking trails, often with a beach to swim at the end. Now that’s my idea of a perfect activity holiday! I spent a week hiking in Andros on the Andros Routes, that offer scenic day hikes, easy circular routes and a 100km long distance trail.

Follow our 7 day itinerary for a hiking holiday in Andros with the best coastal views, charming mountain villages and swimming in river pools.

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Why go hiking in Andros?

Andros is unusual in the Greek islands for offering a well developed network of hiking trails, with something for every ability. Here’s why you should consider Andros for a hiking holiday:

• Andros offers 240km of marked hiking trails that are easy to follow, with maps available to plan your hiking routes. The traditional kalderimia or mule paths between villages, have been restored and signposted by a group of volunteers through the Andros Routes organisation.

• Unlike the other islands in the Cyclades group, Andros is relatively mountainous with elevations of up to 1000 metres. There are plenty of springs and rivers, that tumble down the hillside to the sea, creating a landscape with beautiful views, green wooded valleys and sheltered beaches for swimming.

• While there is no airport, Andros is quick to access by ferry from Athens, making it an ideal add-on from a sightseeing trip in Greece’s capital. Andros is only 2 hours by ferry from the port of Rafina, which is 30 minutes from Athens airport or an hour from central Athens.

• Like most of Greece, Andros enjoys a Mediterranean climate, with warm sunny days from March to November. So Andros is the ideal place for an active holiday in spring or autumn, to escape the cold of northern Europe.

About Andros Routes

Andros has established itself as a top Greek hiking destination, largely due to Andros Routes. The project was formed as a means of promoting sustainable tourism on Andros, to highlight the island’s unique landscapes and culture.

In 2012 an initiative was started to restore and repair the island’s ancient paths, traditionally used to get from village to village. Now 240km of paths have been restored and signposted by groups of volunteers, with regular meetups during the low season to walk and maintain the paths.

In addition to the day hikes and shorter circular routes, there’s a 100km continuous long distance trail that links the north of the island with the south. In 2015 the Andros Routes paths were certified as one of the Leading Quality Trails by the European Rambler’s Association.

Due to Andros Routes, we found the hiking trails on Andros extremely easy to follow, with plenty of information and maps on their website to help plan our trip.

Our 5 days of hiking in Andros

We planned for 5 full days of hiking, with a bit of sightseeing and relaxation thrown in. If you allow a day on either side to travel from Athens to Andros by ferry, this makes an ideal 1 week hiking holiday itinerary.

We recommend staying in the island’s capital Chora, and there are some hotel recommendations later in the article.

Day 1 – Route 8 – Apikia – Stenies – Gialia Beach – Chora

We started our walk at Apikia, an attractive village in the hills, which is a 15 minute taxi ride from Chora. A few steps from the hiking information board is a marble water fountain for the Sariza Spring, which is known for its pure drinking quality.

From the road at Apikia, we made a 30 minute circular detour to see the Pytharas waterfalls (Route 2a). The path followed a mountain stream up through a series of shallow pools, to a spot with flat rocks and a small waterfall cascading over the lip.

Returning to Apikia, the path led us downhill through a pretty rural landscape. We enjoyed a stop at the Agadaki Estate Botanical Garden, with a small museum to explain the unique habitats of Andros with terraces of old olives, fruit trees and aromatic plants.

At the next village of Stenies we climbed up a side path to see the abandoned stone water mill and ‘Fabrica’ meaning factory, which made bread and pasta in the past. We sat on the bridge below the mill for a picnic, and could have made a detour to see more of the village of Stenies set on the hillside.

With the sea in sight, it was an easy walk downhill to arrive at Gialia beach for a cool drink at the beach restaurant and refreshing swim in the quiet cove. Then we followed the road over the hill to Neimporio Beach, the main beach of Chora and back to the town.

Distance: 8.2 km Total time including stops: 6.5 hours

Day 2 – Route 1 – Panachrantou monastery – Menites – Ypsilou – Chora

This was the longest day we walked, but thanks to the 15 minute taxi ride from Chora up to the monastery, it was mostly downhill. Although we arrived at the Panachrantou monastery around 9.30am, it was a while before we were invited in, since the friendly monk was busy sweeping the courtyard and chasing away the peacocks.

Panachrantou monastery is well worth a visit, with fortress like walls and ramparts from which we had stunning views over the valley. The monastery is said to have been founded in 960 AD when two monks saw a light which led them to a cave, in which they found an icon of the Virgin Mary.

The small church within the walls was unlocked by a monk, to show us the holy treasures of silver and gold, with beautiful icons and frescoes of the saints (unfortunately photos are not allowed). Then, as is traditional in Greek monasteries, we were offered a Loukoumi sweet in the monastery dining room.

From the monastery we followed the well marked Route 1 down the steep hill, passing the stone walls of a ruined hamlet. With beautiful views towards Chora, we traversed the hillside moving downhill until we crossed the stone arched bridge of Stoicheiomeni where the river bed was dry after the summer but would later fill up with winter rains.

From the bridge it was a hot uphill walk, crossing the road at the newer part of Menites village, and a short uphill stretch into the old village with its famous spring. The route between houses and stone terraces was pleasantly shady, alongside a water channel that brought water from the spring, and following the path of the mountain stream.

We emerged back onto the road in the old village of Menites, to have a refreshing drink in one of the tavernas near the famous lion heads spouting the cold spring water.

From Menites it was a scenic walk along the valley past the scattered villages of Lamyra and Ypsilou before the path led us down to the beach just below Andros Chora.

Distance: 11.5 km Total time including stops: 8 hrs

Day 3 – River trekking to Gerolimni waterfall on Route 6

We had seen enticing pictures of the Gerolimni waterfall, with its natural swimming pool, fed by icy water from the spring at Vourkoti mountain village. After a bit of research, we realised that it might be difficult to find on our own, so we decided to book the excursion run by Explore Andros, to take us there.

Our guide from Explore Andros picked us up at the hotel in Chora and drove us on a steep, winding mountain road, past the scattered village of Vourkoti. This area is the highest point on Andros, often shrouded in cloud, although for us the skies were clear and the views amazing.

We arrived at the monastery of Agios Nikolaos, where we parked the car in the parking area above. Since the monastery was open, we took the opportunity to make a visit, and a lady opened the church to show us the beautiful icons with silver lamps hanging from the ceiling.

By tradition the monastery is thought to have been built in the 8th century and is renowned for a miraculous icon that streams tears of fragrant myrrh. If you’d like to visit more of the mountain monasteries of Andros, Explore Andros offer this Monasteries of Andros half day tour.

From the monastery, we followed the zig zag path down into the valley of the Achla river, which reaches the coast at Achla beach. Soon, we were in shady woodland, crossing an arched stone bridge from the Venetian period and following the river upstream in the direction of Vourkoti.

At some point the official Route 6 path veered away from the river, but this is where we continued along a faint path. Sometimes we clambered over boulders and fallen trees, changing levels on the old farming terraces, always keeping the river in sight.

Luckily our guide from Explore Andros knew the path well and was able to help us over any obstacles and guide us to the best footholds.

After around an hour’s walking from the monastery, we could hear the waterfall gushing down the rockface, into a deep pool below us. Even though the walk had been mostly shaded by the trees, it was a refreshing sight, and we couldn’t wait to jump into the ice cold water.

While it was possible to jump or even dive in, I preferred to lower myself gingerly, despite the cold taking my breath away. First dip and we could barely breathe from the cold shock, second dip and we swam around briskly, third dip and we felt positively euphoric from the effects of the icy water!

After relaxing a while by the pool, we made our way back on the same route. This time we posed for photos under the old stone bridge, which looked even more impressive from the river level.

Back at the monastery, we could see Achla Beach in the distance. It’s reputed to be one of the most beautiful beaches in Andros, but is only accessible on a long dirt track, or by hiking down from the monastery.

It would be wonderful to walk the whole Route 6 hike, which runs from the mountain village of Vourkoti past Agios Nikolaos monastery to Achla Beach.

The problem is that you need transport to reach the start of the walk at Vourkoti village, a 30-45 minute drive on the winding mountain road from either Batsi or Chora.

Achla beach where the walk ends is also very remote, with no bus service. If you want to visit the beach without the hike, it’s probably best to take a boat trip, like the one offered by Explore Andros, allowing you to see some of the more remote northern beaches and coastline.

I’d highly recommend taking the River Trekking tour, but if you prefer to hike Route 6 independently using a hire car, I’d suggest parking at the Agios Nikolaos monastery. From the monastery it’s around 1 hour to hike downhill to Achla Beach and 1 hour back. You can also could attempt to hike in the other direction and try to find the Gerolimni waterfall and pool, again 1 hour there and 1 hour back.

You can book the river trekking trip with Explore Andros here.

Total time: 3hrs round trip hiking from the monastery to the waterfall, including the stop at the pool. Driving time to Agios Nikolaos monastery from Batsi 45 minutes. Driving time from Chora 30 minutes.

Day 4 – Route 3 – Syneti village – Syneti Beach – Chora

We were hoping to hike to Korthi, the smallest of the four towns of Andros. It sits on the coast in a bowl of mountains, to the south of Chora where we were staying. Korthi is so sleepy, it’s where the residents of laid back Chora go to unwind even more!

Ideally we would have taken a taxi part of the way to Syneti, and from there walked over the crest of the mountain downhill into Korthi. The timetable told us there would be an afternoon bus to bring us back to Chora.

But on checking at the bus station, the afternoon bus did not seem to run after the end of September. We were worried that a taxi might not be available in Korthi, or be too expensive for the 45 minute drive back. So we decided to cut the route in half and just walk back from Syneti, incorporating a swim at Syneti bay.

Our taxi dropped us off by the road at the top of Syneti village, and we walked down through the mainly pedestrianised streets, with cute houses clinging to the hillside.

There’s a folklore museum in the middle of the village, housed in an attractive building that was once the village’s primary school. It was closed when we visited, so we continued down the narrow road that snaked down the hillside towards the beach.

The bay at Syneti is backed by a beach of small pebbles, with clear turquoise water and high rocky cliffs on the southern side. We had the beach entirely to ourselves, apart from a lone white goose who seemed to live there. After a refreshing swim, a couple of locals appeared who also enjoyed a solitary swim, one of them calling to the duck as if it was his friend.

We discovered there was a direct path from the beach up the hillside, although a little overgrown, and used this as a short cut to get back to the village and the road. From there we picked up the Route 3 path, which mainly followed the road but short-cutting its curves.

We had some lovely views over Chora and arrived at the broad sweep of Paraporti beach. Here there’s an area of wetlands along the Megalos river, with a larger flock of ducks, so perhaps our solitary feathered swimming companion was part of this group.

Later in the holiday I was able to visit Korthi by car, and the drive along the mountain road gave us stunning views, so it would definitely be worth trying to make the full hike down into Korthi if you get a chance.

Day 5 – Route 17 – Easy circular walk from Chora around Livadia

For our final day hiking we decided to make an easy walk from Chora around the area of Livadia.

This flat valley close to Chora is irrigated by the Megalos Potamos ( literally Great River ), so it’s full of small fields and citrus orchards, dotted with village houses.

It was a peaceful, rural setting, punctuated only by the ubiquitous barking dogs that most home owners seemed to keep as an early warning of visitors.

The hike meandered through the valley and up the slope on the other side, before circling back to bring us into Chora on a different path. Because we wanted to spend some of our last day on the beach, we retraced the same path back and arrived at Paraporti beach for a swim.

Other hikes to try in Andros

There are numerous other Andros Routes hikes to try depending on where you are staying, whether that’s Chora, Gavrio, Batsi or Korthi. Rather than trying to list them all, we recommend that you buy the map showing all the Andros Routes and check the descriptions on the Andros Routes website.

Ask a local or a taxi driver for the best place to be dropped off, and then walk from the high ground in the centre of the island, back down to the coast, to ensure the best views and minimise the uphill slog!

Best months to hike in Andros

The main tourist season in Andros is relatively short, stretching from beginning of May to end of September. The high season months of July and August are too hot for hiking (above 30 degrees C), and even second half of June and first half of September may see days of 25-30 degrees Celcius.

We found the optimum time on Andros to enjoy both good weather for hiking ( 20-25 degrees C) and also find most hotels, restaurants and tourism businesses open, is beginning May to mid June or mid September to mid October.

If you are only there for the hiking and not so worried about having a smaller selection of hotels and restaurants to choose from, the shoulder season of March – April and October- November can have some sunny and warm days (18-25 degrees C) for hiking. Be aware that Greek Orthodox Easter usually falls in April and is a busy time for Greek visitors.

We spent a week hiking in the last week of September and found it to be a perfect time of year to visit, with great weather for both hiking and swimming, as well as the chance to enjoy the atmosphere of restaurants where you could sit outside in the evening.

I stayed on a further week at the beginning of October for sightseeing and noticed a big difference in atmosphere, as the temperatures started to drop in the evening and many restaurants and hotels had closed.

Where to stay in Andros

If hiking is your main purpose, I’d strongly recommend basing yourself for all or most of the time in Andros Chora, also known locally as just ‘Chora’ (pronounced Hora). The island’s capital is a charming small town, with a wide range of accommodation, shops and restaurants.

Many of the island’s hiking trails start or end in this area. It’s also easy to find a taxi at the taxi rank in the square to take you to a start of the trails that lead back into Chora.

Many other hiking routes can be accessed from the island’s other three main towns of Korthi, Batsi and Gavrio. If you have more time, you may wish to tack on a couple of days staying at any of these, to make it easier to hike these routes.

If you want to do some more remote mountain trails, add on a couple of days in Korthi, while if you prefer some hiking combined with relaxation, choose Batsi for its holiday resort vibe. Gavrio is mainly a ferry port with no beach, but staying here would allow you to access some of the island’s northern trails.

If you prefer to base yourself in one place, but are keen to hike some of the more remote routes to the north or south of Andros, I recommend contacting Explore Andros based in Chora. They have knowledgeable guides and can arrange a bespoke itinerary that includes drop off and pick ups in remote locations where there’s no public transport.

They are also the ideal partner if you are arranging a group hiking trip, as they also own or manage a range of hotels and other accommodation, so can offer a complete package for a group hiking holiday.

Recommended hotels in Chora

Archontiko Eleni (we stayed here) – this small hotel in a neo-classical townhouse, is a good value option with elegant traditional style. It offers breakfast and is well located by the main square, a short walk from all the restaurants and shops.

With only 8 rooms the hotel feels like staying in someone’s rather grand home. This is a good option for hikers since it opens all year round, and there’s public parking nearby if you have a hire car.

Anemomiloi Andros Boutique Hotel (we stayed here) – a stylish boutique hotel with swimming pool on the edge of Chora town. They offer a good breakfast but there’s also a small kitchenette in the rooms.

The hotel is attractively designed with different level rooms overlooking a central courtyard or countryside views. The family who own the hotel also run Explore Andros, making this a popular choice for walkers who use the tour company to arrange their transport.

Castel Abaso Boutique Apartments – a stylish self catering option in the oldest part of Chora, with 3 separate apartments, two of which have private roof terraces. This part of Chora is entirely pedestrianised and quiet at night, so it’s a good option for those who don’t have a hire car.

The apartments are popular with couples, families or small groups who want to have a bit more space, while being a few steps away from the restaurants and amenities of Chora.

If you want to treat yourself to a bit more luxury, try Micra Anglia Boutique Hotel in the old town or Golden Vista Suites with private pools overlooking Neimporio Beach near Chora.

Other recommended hotels

In Batsi, we recommend Hotel Chryssi Akti, which is well located in the centre of the town opposite the beach, but there’s a wide range of accommodation in Batsi. In Korthi there are only a few studio or apartment options – check out the accommodation in Korthi here. Gavrio also has a limited range of accommodation, since it is the island’s main ferry port – check out accommodation in Gavrio here.

What to pack for hiking in Andros

Here’s what you need for tackling the Andros Routes hiking trails, assuming you are mainly doing the day hikes like us. The shorter, circular trails that take a couple of hours don’t need any special equipment, other than trainers or hiking shoes.

Andros Routes map and guidebook

Andros Routes produce a map of all the trails, which is recommended for planning and navigation. The map should be sufficient to guide you, as all the trails are well marked.

However, if you want more information Andros Routes also produce a guidebook, with detailed descriptions of the trails. All profits from the map and guidebook go to support the work of Andros Routes in maintaining the trails – more information here.

You can buy this map on arrival in Andros at a number of hotels and locations, or in the UK from Stamfords bookshops – online order here. The Andros Routes hiking guide can also be purchased on Andros, and the e-book is available to download in English and Dutch – more information here.

Use the Andros Routes map and guidebook showing all the Andros Routes trails for planning and navigation

Hiking / trail shoes

I recommend sturdy hiking shoes, but if you only plan to do one or two trails, well supported trainers would also be fine. Hiking boots are too hot for most times of year in Greece, but fine for early (March / April) or late (November) in the season. My current summer hiking shoes are from Keen – I like the NXIS EVO or Terradora styles.

Hiking shorts

These are ideal for the warmer months May – September. Full or 3/4 length walking trousers would be suitable for early (March / April) or late (November) in the season. Quick dry fabric is ideal for overnight washing.

A day backpack

I find a 15L or 20L backpack is the ideal size for day hiking. In my backpack I carry water, picnic or snacks, map, small medical kit, sunscreen, spare socks, an extra layer for warmth or waterproof jacket for showery weather. I also keep valuables like cash, bank cards and mobile phone in a separate waist pouch.

Hiking poles

This is an optional item as not everyone likes hiking with poles. However, I always hike with them as they give support on steep or slippery paths and reduce the strain on knees and ankles. My favourites are these collapsible Leki poles.

They aren’t the cheapest, but they are well made, sturdy and best of all collapse down for packing in a case or rucksack. I’ve had years of wear out of mine so they were a good investment.

Other items of clothing

Pack sports t-shirts or any t-shirt that’s comfortable for hiking, a light sweatshirt or waterproof, hiking socks, a hat or cap to protect from the sun, sunglasses.

How difficult is the hiking in Andros?

I’d rate most of the trails in Andros as easy to moderate. The longer day hikes are moderate in length and difficulty, with a few steep climbs or descents. However there are plenty of shorter or easier routes where you can park the car and make a circular trail for an hour or two. The trails are well marked and maintained by the Andros Routes volunteers, so it’s difficult to get lost.

I consider myself moderately fit and was able to do the trails with no special training. Having said that, we did take care to start the trail at the highest points, so that we could walk downhill for most of the way, which was much more enjoyable than a gruelling uphill slog!

Transport for hiking in Andros

The biggest challenge was the logistics in reaching the start of some of the more remote trails, or how to get back at the end of a one way route, where there’s no public transport.

Since public buses in Andros are designed mainly to take people to the ferry ports, you’ll need to overcome this issue, either by budgeting for longer taxi rides (€20-30) or by making transfer arrangements with a tour company like Explore Andros (ideal if there’s a group of you).

A hire car can be used to reach all the trails, however most of the more remote or scenic trails are one way, so a drop off / pickup is preferable.

How to get to Andros

Ferry to Andros

There’s no airport on Andros, so most visitors will fly into Athens or Mykonos airports, then take the ferry. Ferries run from the Athens port of Rafina to Andros and then on to neighbouring Tinos and Mykonos. They come back from Mykonos by the same route, stopping at Tinos, Andros and then Rafina.

Ferries run several times a day from Rafina ( Fast Ferries or Golden Star Ferries) and the journey takes 2 hours, or 1 hour 10 mins on the slightly more expensive Seajets ferry. From Mykonos, the ferry time is 2 hours 25 mins. When we travelled the one way ferry ticket from Rafina to Andros was from €25 per person for a foot passenger.

Although you can buy ferry tickets at the port, we found it easier to book online in advance using a service like Ferryscanner. You’ll receive a ticket with bar code by email so that you can go straight on board the ferry. Check the ferry fares, timetables and book your ferry here.

On arrival in Andros

The ferries arrive at Gavrio Port in Andros, so you will probably need to arrange a taxi transfer from the port to either Batsi (15 mins) or Chora (45-60 mins), depending on where you are staying. Alternatively, the KTEL public buses run from Gavrio port to Batsi and Chora, and are timed to leave soon after the ferry’s arrival.

How to get to Rafina port

To reach Rafina from Athens Airport, you can take a taxi (30 mins) or a regular KTEL Attikis bus (30 mins) – find the timetable here. The bus stop is opposite the Sofitel Hotel, leaving the arrivals hall by Exit 3.

To reach Rafina from central Athens you have a few options. You could take the KTEL Attikis bus from Nomismatokopio Station in Athens to Rafina (60 mins). Alternatively take Line 3 of the Athens Metro to Athens airport and from there take the bus or a taxi to Rafina. The most expensive option, but economic if there is a group of you, is to arrange a taxi from any point in Central Athens to Rafina (60 mins).

Read Next

Want to see more of Andros? Check out my travel guide about the best things to do in Andros.

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Most of this trip was self-funded but some of the experiences and accommodation were kindly provided by Explore Andros.

This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com