Far away in the northernmost region of Mongolia, deep in the taiga bordering Siberia, lives one of the smallest yet most unique communities in Central Asia: the Tsaatan.
They are one of the world’s last nomadic societies that still depend entirely on reindeer for survival.
This is off the beaten track, raw Mongolia.
This post will tell you everything you need to know for meeting the Tsaatan, the reindeer herders of Mongolia.
In this travel guide to visit the Tsaatan, you will find:
📰 Introduction to meeting the Tsaatan
Numbering no more than 300 people, the Tsaatan are an ethnic group of nomadic reindeer herders whose lives still fully revolve around their animals. They depend on reindeer for dairy products as well as transportation, maintaining a fully nomadic lifestyle that has prevailed for generations.
The Tsaatan are actually not originally from Mongolia, but they belong to a Siberian ethnic group called the Tuvans, who live mainly across the Russian border in the Tuva Republic, a region named after them.
During World War II, fearing that Stalin would call their men into the Soviet Army, thousands of Tuvans fled Russia into Mongolia, where they remained for decades.
Tsaatan people inside their tipi
Over time, many returned to Russia, but a few hundred families stayed, became Mongolian, and were renamed Tsaatan, a word derived from tsaa, meaning reindeer in Mongolian.
Today, they still practice this ancestral way of life, moving across the taiga between 10 and 15 times a year, following the needs of their herds.
Unlike the Nenets, the Chukchi, or other reindeer herders of far northern Siberia, the Tsaatan are relatively more accessible, yet their region remains one of the most isolated and least visited corers of Mongolia.
The Tsaatan people live in the taiga (check map on next section).
The taiga is a vast boreal forest that stretches mainly from Scandinavia across Russia, but also covers parts of Mongolia and North America. It is the world’s largest forest ecosystem, but in Mongolia it appears only in the far north, in a remote region bordering Siberia.
This area is unlike anywhere else in Mongolia. Unlike the open, vast, and endless steppe, the taiga consists of dense forest, wetlands, and permafrost.
The nearest large settlement is Tsagaannuur, reachable from Mörön after another full day’s drive.
A Tsaatan nomadic camp
🛫 How to get to the Tsaatan nomadic camp (day by day)
The camp where the Tsaatan people live is not only remote, but it also takes several days to reach from Mongolia’s capital, Ulaanbaatar (UB).
Map: How to reach the Tsaatan region
Step 1 (Day 1): UB to Mörön
The Tsaatan camp is located in Khovsgol province, and Mörön is the main city and gateway into the taiga and northernmost part, where they live.
Backpackers should know there are direct buses between the two cities, though the journey takes around 15 hours (that’s how long it took me).
A long trip, yes, but overland travel in Mongolia is always part of the adventure.
Alternatively, you can fly. Both MIAT Mongolian Airlines and Hunnu Air operate flights into Mörön, but they don’t run daily, so be sure to check the schedules in advance.
Step 2 (Day 2): Mörön to Tsagaannuur
Tsagaannuur is the last relatively large settlement before entering the taiga. It’s more than 300 km from Mörön, and the journey takes a full day, at least 10 hours on a rough, bumpy road through hilly steppe landscapes.
A pretty long ride, but the scenery is absolutely stunning.
By the way, if you have your own vehicle, consider breaking the journey in two and spending the night in Ulaan Uul, which is roughly halfway between Mörön and Tsagaannuur.
Public transportation to Tsagaannuur isn’t reliable. Shared minivans don’t run every day, and when they do, they often leave in the evening.
Hitchhiking is possible if you have the time and patience, but the most practical option is to hire a taxi. Mongolia is still relatively inexpensive, and a ride to Tsagaannuur shouldn’t cost more than about 100 USD, which you can split with fellow travelers.
The Mongolian steppe
Step 3. Tsagaanuur to the actual taiga
From Tsagaannuur, reaching the Tsaatan nomadic camp takes another full day. The journey includes a 2-hour drive on rough tracks, followed by a 6-hour ride on horseback through the taiga. Walking is technically possible, but much of the route crosses swampy terrain, difficult on foot. Horses are by far the best option.
This leg of the trip cannot be done independently, but you’ll need to find a local contact who can arrange horses and guide you into the forest. In Tsagaannur, you can find one, it shouldn’t be difficult.
Important: a permit will be required.
Due to its proximity with Russia, a border permit s required to visit this part of Mongolia.
It usually takes 1–2 days to be issued. You can apply for it directly in Tsagaannuur, or arrange it in advance, whichever is more convenient.
The people running Erden’s Guest House in Tsagaannuur.
Also, remember that we are running a full 10-day expedition into this part of Mongolia, scheduled for June 23rd to July 2nd. All details are here.
This was the guy that took us into the taiga on a horseback
🌥️ Best time to visit
The best time to visit the Tsaatan is during the summer, from June to September, when the weather is mild and the forest is lush and green.
It can vary from week to week, but when I was there (at the end of June), days were surprisingly hot, while nights were kind of chilly.
The photos you see in this Tsaatan travel blog are from that period.
Summer is also the high season across Mongolia — the easiest time to travel anywhere in the country, since winters here are brutally cold.
That said, the Tsaatan live in the taiga all year round, and it’s possible to visit them at any time, even in the depths of winter. Just like with the Nenets of northern Siberia, visiting reindeer herders in winter can be rough but immensely photogenic, a great blend of traditional clothes, reindeer, and snow-capped landscapes.
What a Tsaatan camp looks like in summer
🏕️ Life in the nomadic camp, what to expect as a traveler
The Tsaatan are full-time nomads who move across the taiga around 10 to 15 times a year. It’s a rough, inconvenient lifestyle that they have maintained for generations, and only a handful of families still live this way today.
Their lifestyle is so unique that the Government of Mongolia actively contributes to preserving this way of life by providing a monthly salary, most likely just enough to cover the most basic needs of those living deep in the taiga.
What you’ll see there is raw and authentic. In summer, when temperatures are pleasant and the forest turns green, their way of life might seem almost idyllic, but remember they also spend the winter there, when temperatures drop to –30 °C.
They live entirely off their reindeer and what they can carry in their tents, so everything they own is extremely basic.
Unlike most Mongolian nomads, they live in cone-shaped tents, similar to Native American tipis, and the reason is that reindeer herders need to move more frequently than steppe nomads, and these tents are lighter and easier to assemble.
During the summer months, a few Tsaatan camps receive occasional visitors. Yet even those few tourists who make it this far into the haven’t changed the nomads’ lifestyle. As a traveler, expect a raw, unaltered experience, therefore also uncomfortable.
Here’s what you need to expect as a traveler.
Food
When I visited, I personally brought everything I needed for 3-4 days. In Mörön, there’s a decent supermarket where you can stock up on supplies before heading into the taiga. If you’re joining an organized trip from Ulaanbaatar, your tour company will most likely bring a cook. On our expedition to northern Mongolia, for instance, we always travel with one.
Next departure to meet the Tsaatan in Northern Mongolia:
As mentioned earlier, the Tsaatan live in tipi-like tents.
Because they move so often, their homes are extremely simple, just a single section with a small stove for cooking and thin mattresses laid on the ground.
As a visitor, you’re usually welcome to stay in one of their tipis, as long as you’ve arranged it beforehand. When I visited, blankets were provided, but I strongly recommend bringing a warm sleeping bag.
If you haven’t organized accommodation in advance, it should be fine to pitch your own tent near their camp, nobody will say anything.
Facilities
Facilities in the nomadic camp are non-existent, like there are no toilets, no showers, nothing. Some camps have built a very basic, improvised toilet, but I strongly recommend walking a few hundred metres further, and do your necessities somewhere else.
Reindeer cheese, a stapple in for Tsaatan people
Interacting with the Tsaatan nomads
The Tsaatan don’t speak English or Russian, only Mongolian, at least in my experience. Communication will therefore be limited unless you have a translator or a guide with you.
It’s important to remember that the nomads aren’t there to entertain you. During the day, they’re busy with their reindeer and daily chores, and then they simply get on with their lives.
However, they’re also aware of the benefits that tourism can bring, and most families are friendly, curious, and open to visitors who show genuine respect and interest. They are OK with photography as well.
A Tsaatan nomad saddling his reindeer
Things to do in the taiga
While staying with the Tsaatan, there isn’t much to “do” in the conventional sense, but that’s what is cool about it.
Most of your time will be spent simply observing the nomads doing their daily routines: milking reindeer, preparing food, collecting firewood, or saddling their reindeer before heading out into the forest. It’s OK to help them too.
In the evenings, the atmosphere is a bit more relaxed. Some families gather to chat or play simple board games, while the youth tend to play volleyball. If you’re not too shy, feel free to join in.
It’s important to keep in mind that the taiga isn’t a place for activities. But a place to disconnect, watch and learn about a particular way of life.
A nomad woman milking a reindeer
Internet
In the taiga, there isn’t any service, but nomads have now Starlink, which they turn on one hour per day, almost every day, so you won’t be fully offline.
There’s no mobile service in the taiga, but the entire camp shares one Starlink connection, which is usually turned on for about an hour almost every day so, while you’ll be mostly offline, you’ll still get a short daily window to send messages and check your email.
🗓️ How many days are needed?
Visiting the Tsaatan is quite a long journey from Ulaanbaatar, but if you’re referring to the time spent in the camp itself, one or two full days are usually enough to get a glimpse of what life is like for a full-time reindeer herder.
However, you also need to take into account the horseback journey to reach the camp and return, plus the journey to Mörön.
From Ulaanbaatar, the trip can easily take 10 to 12 days in total.
This is the itinerary we follow in the expedition we have scheduled for June 23rd to July 2nd, 2026.
Chukotka is Russia’s most remote region and the easternmost point of Eurasia.
It’s an intriguing land whose ancient traditions have been shaped by the large presence of whales, walruses and reindeers, animals that feature in local folklore, songs, music, customs, cuisine, and daily life.
Chukotka is so remote that it truly feels like the end of the world, a land that remains almost unknown even to most Russians, and where the Chukchi culture survives in one of the planet’s most isolated environments, sustained by reindeer herding and marine mammal hunting.
Visiting Chukotka has been one of the most fascinating travel experiences of my life.
This travel guide will tell you everything you need to know for traveling to Chukotka.
85 km, between Cape Dezhnev (Chukotka, Russia) and Cape Prince of Wales
Size
Roughly the size of Turkey, 737,700 km²
Time zone
Chukotka Time (UTC+12), 10 hours ahead of Wester Europe
Introduction: Why I traveled to Chukotka, and why you should travel there as well
I’ve always been drawn to places that are unknown and remote, and for years, I was intrigued by what might be hidden in this remote corner of Russia, a region that nobody knows, and where nobody goes.
Interesting to mention is that even the Russia edition of Lonely Planet doesn’t mention Chukotka once.
Traveling to Chukotka came by chance. I was offered a spot on an exploratory expedition with a group of Russians, and I didn’t think twice.
However, Chukotka isn’t just epically remote, but it’s home to a culture that has survived in total isolation, in the harshest conditions ever. The Chukchi still herd reindeer and hunt marine mammals, holding on to traditions that have lasted for centuries.
We’re used to seeing animals like walruses or whales in uninhabited places, but in Chukotka it’s striking to witness how these mammals shape every part of local life.
Remoteness, a unique living culture, and the chance to explore a place almost no foreigner has seen—those are the reasons that took me to Chukotka.
The Chukchi are the main ethnic group of Chukotka. They are closely related to the Arctic peoples commonly known as Eskimos – today referred to as Inuit in Canada and Greenland – and Yupik in Russia, with whom they share a common culture.
Traditionally, the Chukchi are divided into two groups: reindeer Chukchi, who live across the tundra with their herds, and maritime Chukchi, who live along the coast and depend on hunting whales, walruses, and seals.
Reindeer ChukchiMaritime Chukchi
Chukchi culture has been deeply shaped by the Arctic environment, visible in their songs and folklore, as well as in a cuisine which heavily relies on whale, walrus and reindeer.
Despite Soviet efforts of sedentarization and assimilation into the Russian culture, Chukchi traditions, language and culture prevales, and reindeer herding and whale hunting continues to be central to their identity and survival.
This is the stomach of a walrus
Traveling to such a remote area is incredibly epic, but coexisting with these isolated communities and learning about their customs is such a uniquely rewarding experience.
A Chukchi person with his reindeers
The Chukchi and their whale hunting in Chukotka
The Chukchi people practice a very controversial activity: whale hunting.
Today, travelers can spend a few days with the community of whalers, learn about their traditions, and, if weather allows, join one of their hunting expeditions.
A dead gray whale on the shore of Lorino in Chukotka
As a traveler, however, it is important to understand the context behind this practice
Chukotka is extremely remote and isolated, with permafrost making the land unsuitable for farming
Basic goods are super expensive, there’s shortage of fruits and vegetables and small settlements receive supplies only once a year to last through winter.
On this conditions, whale meat is an essential part of the Chukchi diet, consumed every day in pretty much all their meals as a source of vitamins.
The International Whaling Commission (IWC) is aware of this issue, which is why Chukchi people are legally allowed to hunt whales, but on the following conditions:
Only traditional methods
Whales can only be hunted using traditional methods: by hand, with spears, and without machinery.
That is how they hunt, with this big harpoon
Limited yearly quota
The yearly quota for the entire Chukotka region is:
130 gray whales
2-3 Greenland (bowhead) whales
18 belugas
It is strictly forbidden to hunt orcas or humpback whales because they are considered endangered.
Trade is not allowed
All whale products are for personal consumption. Trade is strictly forbidden by both the International Whaling Commission and Russian law.
Dragging a whale into the shore
It’s for the local people, and it’s for free
After catching a whale, hunters drag it to the shore where the entire village gathers to claim their share of meat, completely free. The whale is usually butchered in less than three hours, leaving nothing but the tail.
Witnessing this process is astonishing.
The whalers themselves work for a legal entity recognized by the authorities and receive a salary for their efforts, but the meat are distributed to the people without charge.
Chukotka is so remote that there are no roads or railways linking it with the rest of Russia — and there probably never will be.
The closest train station is in Yakutsk, the capital of Yakutia, more than 2,300 km away from Anadyr, both capitals separated by endless frozen tundra, where no road will ever be built.
The only way in is to fly. From Moscow, Aeroflot operates just one or two flights a week to Anadyr Airport (DYR).
It’s an 8-hour flight journey.
By the way, you may also fly into Anadyr from Krasnoyarsk (heart of Siberia), Khabarovsk (near Vladivostok) and Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskiy (Kamchatka).
Remember that because of the sanctions, it’s not possible to book directly through Aeroflot’s website, but you can still get your tickets via aviasales.com.
The airport of Anadyr features some pretty cool stuff
How to travel around Chukotka
You made it to Anadyr, and that’s amazing. You should already be proud of yourself, since not many foreign travelers can actually brag about getting here.
But Anadyr, like the rest of Chukotka, is just a tiny town lost in the middle of frozen tundra. No roads, no trains, nothing. If you want to travel to other parts of the region, your only option is to fly.
To make things even more challenging, the only airline in Chukotka is Chukotavia, a local carrier that operates with small, Soviet-style 26-seat aircrafts.
You can check their website (only in Russian) here, just for your curiosity, since reservations are only taken by phone, plus flights don’t really follow a regular schedule, but they are based on demand and weather. In winter, they might not fly at all.
Even Russians struggle to book a ticket with them, especially because one must book seats several months in advance.
That’s why independent travel is so hard in Chukotka.
This is the typical terrain of Chukotka, wet tundra, impossible to travel around on normal
cars
Money & budget in Chukotka
In Chukotka, they use the Russian Ruble, just like in the rest of Russia. For further information currency and payment restrictions in Russia, check the money section of our Russia travel guide.
Because of the sanctions, foreign bank cards are useless in Russia, and that includes Chukotka.
Can you exchange Euros or US dollars in Chukotka?
You might be able to exchange foreign currency into Russian rubles at Sberbank in Anadyr, although I haven’t tried it myself — so it’s safer to exchange your money in Moscow before flying in.
What I can confirm is that outside Anadyr you will not be able to exchange or use foreign currency at all, so I strongly recommend bringing enough cash in rubles for the entire trip, especially since local banks have very limited opening hours.
How much money do you need to bring for Chukotka?
Chukotka is really expensive compared to anywhere else in Russia, especially
Where to stay in Chukotka
Accommodation options are very limited in Chukotka, and often difficult to arrange.
Where to stay in Anadyr
There is one hotel in Anadyr available on Ostrovok app (Russian equivalent of booking.com) but it’s quite expensive, usually around 150 EUR a night.
There are a few more hotels in the city, but booking them in advance is difficult, since most rooms are reserved for airline crew or people coming for a specific business purpose.
Tourists can only stay there if those rooms are free, something you won’t know until the very last minute.
As an alternative, most travelers stay in private apartments. However, these are not listed on any platform and can only be arranged through a local contact.
A very big seal, somewhere in Chukotka
Where to stay outside of Anadyr
In the villages across Chukotka, there aren’t any hotels, but the only option is staying in local apartments.
However, these are not “tourist apartments” but actual lived-in homes. You’ll have the whole place to yourself, but it often feels as if the people living there just stepped out a few minutes before your arrival.
How clean and tidy your apartment is will highly depend on your host. In my case, when I stayed in Lorino for a week, the assigned apartment was messy: toothbrushes left behind, underwear drying on the heater, etc. Yet, we were paying €1,000 per week for a very basic two-bedroom apartment with a shared bathroom.
Once again, having a local contact is essential if you want to arrange accommodation in Chukotka.
Internet in Chukotka
I bought the HolaFly eSIM for Russia. It worked in Anadyr, but I had no service anywhere outside the capital.
I also had a physical SIM card from Megafon, which is supposed to have the best coverage in the region. I managed weak 3G in Lavrentiya, but there was zero coverage in Lorino, where we stayed for a week.
Some apartments in Lorino had Wi-Fi, but if it worked at all, it was extremely slow, not even good for WhatsApp.
Therefore, just assume you’ll be offline anywhere outside of Anadyr.
For more information on how to get a SIM card, blocked websites, etc., check the internet section of our travel guide to Russia.
Places to visit in Chukotka
This is a personal travel blog, and this travel guide to Chukotka is based on my own trip.
I spent 2 weeks in different towns from the southeastern coast of Chukotka, coexisting with the Chukchi communities settled on the shores of the Pacific. Visiting that part of Chukotka is a different trip, usually done by cruise, with prices similar to those of Antarctica or Svalbard.
My trip to Chukotka was different, more ethnographic. We spent most of our time with local communities, even though we also encountered a lot of wildlife and even reached the easternmost cape.
Here are the places I visited on my trip to Chukotka.
Map of the places to visit in Chukotka
Anadyr, capital of Chukotka
Home to around 15,000 people, Anadyr is the capital of Chukotka and the main port of entry into the region.
Surrounded by endless tundra, and inaccessible by anything other than a plane or a boat, intrepid travelers will find Anadyr fascinating, a frozen city made up of Soviet blocks colored in random colors, and where’s virtually nothing to do other than walking around a desolate harbour while spotting seals and belugas in the bay.
Anadyr is as stark as you probably imagined, and that’s what is cool about it.
Chukchi people make up only about 15% of the population here, with the rest being Russians from all over the country. I even met a guy from North Ossetia (in the Caucasus) who had been living in Anadyr for 8 years.
Abandoned nuclear facilities in Anadyr Due to its strategic position near Alaska, Chukotka was heavily militarized during the Soviet Union, especially during the Cold War. The legacy is still visible in abandoned military settlements and in an underground nuclear base near Anadyr. Formerly called Anadyr-1, the base consists of a set of underground tunnels built into the permafrost, where nuclear missiles were kept on standby and aimed at Anchorage and Seattle. Today, you can visit the site on a guided tour, walking through several kilometers of tunnels where much of the old machinery and infrastructure still remains.
A pretty cool mural from the nuclear base at Anadyr-1
Lorino, the main hub for whaling
This settlement of around 1,500 people is the place to go if you want to learn about marine Chukchi culture and meet the local community of whalers.
As mentioned earlier, the International Whaling Commission grants the Chukchi people a quota of about 150 whales for the entire region each year, the vast majority of which takes place in Lorino.
The whaling community here is also very welcoming to the few tourists who make it this far. With the right local connections, you can arrange a stay of several days, taking part in community life and joining activities that give you an authentic insight into this unique way of life.
During my trip to Chukotka, I spent seven nights in Lorino, using it as a base for day trips to Cape Dezhnev, Mapyk, and nearby nomadic camps.
The village of Lorino on the only sunny day we had
Lavrentiya, Chukchi’s largest settlement
Lavrentiya has a small airport with direct flights to Anadyr operated by Chukot Avia.
If you want to visit Lorino, this is where you must fly into first. From Lavrentiya, it takes about 1.5 hours by car to reach Lorino.
Lavrentiya is like a bigger version of Lorino, still a small settlement, but with an airport and a few more services. While there are no large shops, the small convenience store is definitely better stocked than the one in Lorino.
There are also a few murals worth checking out and a Lenin statue, which by the time I went there was all surrounded by constructions palets, making it the most lame Lenin statue ever seen.
The village of Lavrentiya
Uelen, the easternmost settlement in the world
Uelen is the easternmost settlement in Chukotka and the last village before the Bering Strait. With only a few hundred residents, it is also known as a historic center for Chukchi and Yupik communities.
Visiting Uelen was part of our plan after reaching Cape Dezhnev, but due to rough seas, we were unable to continue, and unfortunately had to turn back.
A colony puffins just a few kilometers from Uelen
Mapyk, ancient Yupik settlement.
Mapyk is an abandoned Yupik settlement located in the tundra, about an hour by boat from Lorino. It has been deserted for decades—perhaps even a few centuries—but the remains are still visible in the house structures and buildings made from whale bones, including massive jaws and ribs.
Visiting Mapyk can be extremely dangerous due to the high density of bears in the area, so it should never be attempted without a local armed guide.
Ancient buildings made from whale bones
Nomadic camp of reindeer herders.
The Chukchi reindeer herders are full time nomads, they move constantly across the tundra throughout the year, just like the Nenets in western Siberia, never staying in a fixed place.
When I visited, I was lucky to meet a reindeer camp in the area marked on the map above, but it’s important to understand that the location of the herders changes all the time.
If you wish to visit them, your local guide or translator should be able to get in touch with the nomads in advance to coordinate a visit. Encounters, however, can’t be guaranteed, since by the time you come, they might be too far away.
For me, it was very interesting to compare the reindeer Chukchi with other reindeer-herding peoples such as the Nenets in Yamal or the Tsaatan in Mongolia. They all depend on their herds for survival, yet their lifestyles and cultures couldn’t be more different.
We travelled to the camp with a group of marine Chukchi, and it was fascinating to watch them interact and exchange meat (whale meat for reindeer meat).
Nomadic Chukchi girl somewhere in the tundra
Cape Dezhnev, the easternmost place in the world
Cape Dezhnev is the easternmost point of the Eurasian continent, located right at the Bering Strait. We arrived on a very clear day, so we could see the coast of mainland Alaska, just 84km across the water.
The cape is named after Semyon Dezhnev, a 17th-century Russian explorer who was the first European to sail through the Bering Strait
At the site, you find a ohitigenic Soviet-era lighthouse and a small military base. Soldiers will approach you, but they are quite friendly.
The area is also rich in wildlife. Seeing colonies of puffins is guaranteed and if you are lucky, you might spot groups of seals and walruses.
Cape Dezhnev
More information
📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.
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Wanna travel to the Middle East with Against the Compass?
Yemen, Syria, Iraq, Saudi Arabia, Kurdistan and more. We have group expeditions scheduled every month to the most exciting destinations in the Middle East.
The Middle East…
That enormous piece of territory often overlooked as a whole and, usually, only seen as the land of the greatest and most beautiful deserts, endless bazaars of spices and the warm welcome of the Bedouins.
Moreover, most of the time, the international media only likes to share images of disasters and bad things happening in the Middle East.
This distortion of reality changes people’s perception to the extent that the whole region of the Middle East becomes a dangerous place to travel to as if it was one single country.
But, you know what? The Middle East is composed of 14 different countries that differ massively from each other, have boundaries and share borders.
Which countries are part of the Middle East?
In my opinion, these are the countries that comprise the Middle East:
Bahrain, Egypt, Iran, Iraq, Israel, Jordan, Kuwait, Lebanon, Oman, Palestine, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Syria, United Arab Emirates and Yemen
Officially, the Middle East also includes Turkey and Cyprus, but this is my blog, and I decided not to include them and, instead, I decided to include Libya in this list.
Anyways.
After many years of living and traveling around the region, based on my own experience and opinion, I have compiled a list of the 39 best places to travel in the Middle East.
These choices are based on their level of security, historical importance, and natural beauty.
My objective is to show you not only that the Middle East is a safe place to travel to, but I also want you to see the huge natural and cultural contrast between countries and the relevant role they have in our history.
Located in the north of Iraqi Kurdistan, only 10km away from the Turkish border, Amadiya is a lovely, very photogenic village located on the flat top of a mountain, which has no less than 5,000 years of history.
From the Assyrians to the Persians, as well as several Jewish and Christian communities, dozens of different civilizations and religions have left their footprint in this historical place.
Furthermore, Amadiya is believed to be the home of the Three Wise Man, who made a pilgrimage to Bethlehem to see Jesus Christ after his birth.
Today, Amadiya is a Muslim Kurdish village, surrounded by the most striking mountain scenery, characteristic from northern Iraq and one the most beautiful places to travel in the Middle East.
Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1982, Shibam is a 7000-inhabitant town, located in the middle of nowhere, composed of 9-story mud-brick buildings, which is why it’s often referred to as the ‘Manhattan of the desert’, even though I don’t really like these comparisons.
Unlike other sites of great interest in Yemen, Shibam is located in a region named Hadramut, a relatively safe in Yemen with direct flights from Cairo in Egypt.
Esfahan is Iran’s most amazing city and its mosques, composed of giant domes and mind-blowing ceilings with extravagant geometrical forms, are the most impressive buildings in the Middle East, without any doubt.
Being one of the most historical cities in the region, Esfahan has always been home to a large community of scholars and prestigious intellectuals and its importance and influence in this part of the world was often compared to Athens and Rome.
Today, as per Iranian standards, Esfahan is a surprisingly modern, clean and vibrant city where some of the most educated and brilliant people in the country live.
This is the first thing the hotel receptionist told me on the day I arrived in the city.
Damascus is indeed one of the most ancient cities in the world – probably the oldest country capital – established in the second millennium BC, and capital of the Umayyad Caliphate from 661 to 750, one of the most important caliphates ever, extending from Spain to Iran.
My favorite place in Damascus was Umayyad mosque, an outstanding mosque which passed from being a Jupiter Temple during the Roman era to a Christian basilica dedicated to John the Baptist and then one of the largest mosques in the world.
Today, Damascus is a safe city and, fortunately, the Old City has remained like that during most of the war.
I visited it at the beginning of 2019 and had a real blast.
Join a group of like-minded travelers to visit the wonders of Damascus, Aleppo, Palmyra and more.
Sept 23rd to 30th, 2025
The beautiful Umayyad Mosque in Damascus, one of the oldest and largest mosques in the world and one of the most beautiful places to visit in the Middle East
Extending from Western Europe to North Africa and the Middle East, the Roman Empire was the greatest empire that has ever existed.
Today, most of its ruins, some of them in relatively good condition, are major tourist attractions that receive hundreds of visitors every day.
Outside of Rome, the ruins of Baalbek are among the most impressive, not only due to their dimensions and good preservation, but also because you are likely to have the ruins to yourself as, here, we are talking about Lebanon, one of the most off the beaten track destinations in the region, where you can experience the greatest Roman ruins like nowhere else, hence one of the best places to travel in the Middle East.
600km from the capital of Libya (Tripoli) and nestled right at the triple border between Algeria, Tunisia and Libya, Ghadames is an ancient caravan city, one of the most important caravan cities in all of Africa. The Old City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a massive, entangled maze of streets built in a refreshing oasis in the middle of the desert.
It does take one full day to reach Ghadames by car from the capital Tripoli, but the journey is worth the trip.
Stretching from south Oman all the way to the Yemeni border, Dhofar’s coastline may differ significantly from what you expect from an Omani beach.
Vertiginous cliffs, turquoise-blue waters, and empty, epic beaches characterize the beaches of southern Oman, barely discovered by the average traveler, who tends to stick to the northern part of the country.
If you are into wild, random camping and road trips, in the Middle East, it doesn’t really get better than this.
Unfortunately, very little is known about Saudi Arabia but, given that this is the home of Mecca, it shouldn’t be a surprise that Saudi is filled with ancient and historical places, and one of the best examples is Al Balad, the old part of Jeddah, established 1,300 years ago as the gateway for Muslims on their way to Mecca, mostly arriving by sea from Africa.
Today a UNESCO World Heritage site, Al Balad is a lively area filled with colorful facades and, by far, the most beautiful Old City from all the Gulf Monarchies.
Traveling to Saudi Arabia is getting easier than ever and here you read my tips for Saudi.
Jeddah Old City, a UNESCO World Heritage site
11 – Jerusalem – The holiest place for the three main monotheist religions
Today, Jerusalem is part of Israel but, if Palestine ever becomes an independent state, East Jerusalem, which is mostly inhabited by Arabs, will be the capital of the country.
Being one of the most important places for Christians, Muslims, and Jews, Jerusalem is a city that has perfectly combined tradition and history with a 21st-century city, meaning that you can stroll around the old city and its historical sites for days and, at the same time, enjoy the endless nightlife, food scene, and modernity of the new part of Jerusalem.
Jerusalem is one of those cities that are worth spending several days in.
What if I tell you that, in a very remote part of Iran, bordering the Turkmenistan border, there is a region with an unexpectedly mystical landscape, home to a large Turkmen community who have more similarities to people from Kyrgyzstan than other Iranians.
This region is called Golestan province, one of the least visited provinces in Iran, whose main peculiarity is that most of its inhabitants are ethnically Turkmen, a Central Asian ethnicity originally from Turkmenistan.
From Central Asian food, such as plov and kurut, to the way they dress, the Mongolian features in people’s faces and a very Central Asian nomadic life, visible in their love for horses and the yurts they live in, Golestan is a different world from the rest of the Middle East.
Mosul is exceptional, one of my favorite cities in all of the Middle East, and the reasons are as follow:
First of all, it is a very diverse city.
Prior to the war against the Islamic State, Mosul was inhabited by different types of Christians, Muslims and also Yazidis. It was ethnically mixed too, home to Armenians, Kurds, Arabs and Assyrians.
When ISIS took it over, however, most of them fled the city but today, many are coming back and the streets are becoming more lively than ever.
On the other hand, the Old City of Mosul is an open-air museum, packed with historical mosques and churches, all of them being in the UNESCO World Heritage tentative list.
While it’s true that most of the buildings are today largely destroyed due to the recent war, there’s a big UNESCO team working on rebuilding all its wonders, allowing you to witness an exciting moment of living history.
Not many cities in the world have as much history as Erbil has.
With almost 30,000 years of history, according to historians, and, today a UNESCO World Heritage site, Erbil is the capital of Iraqi Kurdistan, a city with plenty of tradition, filled with plenty of ancient bazaars, epic cafés, and historical sites.
Nevertheless, the awesomeness of Erbil doesn’t end up here and, in fact, what may surprise you is that, as well as a classic Middle Eastern Muslim city, this is also a real pro-Western metropolis and a regional business hub where a large expat community lives and, as a consequence, has some of the most awesome nightlife in the Middle East.
Even though this is likely the most touristic site in the region, it would be a sin not to consider one of the 7 wonders among one of the best places to visit in the Middle East.
Petra was founded in the VI century B.C. by the Edomites but, it didn’t prosper until the Nabateans (a group of nomadic Arabs) took over the place and built the city by carving it from the rock, making it become an important trading hub.
The architecture of Petra leaves you breathless and, besides admiring the Treasury and the Monastery, I recommend getting off the path, going hiking and taking the trails less traveled.
The Monastery, Petra – Things to do in the Middle East
Wadi Doa’n is a canyon-shaped valley located in the region of Hadramut and dotted with fairy-tale-like villages whose architecture is a real blessing to the eyes.
The canyon offers plenty of trekking opportunities with spectacular, vertiginous views, and there’s even a pretty cool resort on the top of a cliff where you can stay and which remains open despite the conflict.
Many of the people from these villages, especially young kids, have never seen foreigners, so the local life there is pretty raw. To make it even more exciting, there’s one village named Qarht Bahumaish, which is Usama Bin Laden’s hometown. He was born in Saudi but his family comes from there.
Beirut is the capital of Lebanon, a city that suffered one of the longest contemporary Civil Wars (25 years, ending in 1991). Today, among all the destroyed buildings, Beirut brags about being one of the safest cities in the region. With unbelievable economic growth and the rapid rise of the middle class, Beirut is the most liberal and westernized city in the Middle East (outside of Israel).
I love Beirut because of its deep, rich and contrasting history. It’s composed of dozens of districts that differ massively from each other: The hipster district of Gemmayzeh, Hezbollah areas like Bourj al-Barajneh, the student neighborhood of Hamra, old Palestinian refugee camps, the Armenian district of Bourj Hammoud, several Christian areas and much, much more! Beirut is one of the most culturally diverse cities in the world.
From the deepest underground parties to the most glamorous clubs, from local eateries to the best fine dining restaurants in the region, Beirut is a city adaptable to any kind of traveler and budget.
Saudi Arabia is a massive country and, as such, it has quite a few geographical areas, the most dramatically different being Jizan, a province bordering the country of Yemen.
Asian-like terraced fields, greenery, and monkeys comprise the mountain villages of Jizan, miles away from Saudi Arabia stereotypes, plus the people there are culturally Yemeni, from the food they eat to the way they traditionally dress.
Maaloula is a Christian town located north of Damascus (Syria) with an intriguing history, both ancient and contemporary.
On the one hand, this is one of the very few places in the world where they speak Aramaic, the language of Jesus, making it such a unique place.
Now that tourists are a rare thing to see, if you visit The Convent of Saint Serge and Bacchus, you are likely to meet the priest, who will certainly be more than happy to recite some words in Aramaic.
The recent history of Maaloula, however, isn’t so fortunate, since it was taken by Al Nusra (similar to ISIS) during the war, the legacy of which is still very visible in the many destroyed buildings. In fact, the nuns running the Monastery of Saint Tekla are the ones who were kidnapped by the Muslim extremists, a sad event in which even the Pope intervened.
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Occupying territory in both Israel & Palestine and Jordan, the Dead Sea is the lake with the highest salt density in the world and also, the lowest point on Earth, 430 meters below sea level.
Such is the high concentration of salt that animals and plants can’t live in it, hence the name.
Swimming in the Dead Sea is totally fine and, due to the high density of the water, sinking is almost impossible. I’ve only been to the Jordanian side of the Dead Sea and, along the coast, there are several hotels and resorts where you can chill on their beaches and have a mud bath.
The Dead Sea from Jordan side and Palestine at the other side – Best places to travel in the Middle East
21 – Liwa Oasis – The purest and wildest image of the Gulf
Around 500 years ago, a group of Bedouins tapped underground, freshwater recourses to cultivate dates and, as a result, several villages and settlements appeared in the area, which we currently call Liwa, the birthplace of the Nahyan family, the current ruling family of Abu Dhabi and the UAE.
Since then, and over the years, the cultivation of dates in Liwa has been a key factor in the region’s economic development.
Liwa is located in the south of UAE, next to Saudi Arabian border and on the edge of the Empty Quarter, a huge desert spread across UAE, Yemen, Oman, and Saudi Arabia and considered the largest (continuous) sea of dunes on Earth, whose end can’t even be seen from the furthest horizon.
In addition, in Liwa you can also find the only real Bedouins in the UAE and the Moreeb dune, one of the highest dunes in the world (300m).
Along with Damascus, I also visited Aleppo at the beginning of 2019.
Before the war, Aleppo used to be the largest and most touristic city in the country.
Being a few thousands years older than Damascus, the Citadel and Old City of Aleppo have been mostly destroyed by the Civil War but after the liberation of the city in 2017, the reconstruction has already begun, Syrians are moving back and shops are, very slowly, reopening.
I am pretty sure that, in a matter of years, the beautiful city of Aleppo will return to its maximum splendor.
Similar to Tabouk, have you ever been to Petra, in Jordan?
Imagine the wonders of Petra but in the desert of Saudi Arabia.
That’s Madain Saleh (or Hegra).
Hegra was an ancient city founded by local tribes in 3000 BC, but it was not until the 2nd century BC that the Nabateans made it a great city, in a fear of the Romans conquering Petra, so it could serve as the new capital.
Still, the Romans conquered both cities, Hegra and Petra, but the more than 100 tombs carved from the giant desert rocks remained, today found in the middle of nowhere.
Unlike Petra, however, the tombs of Madain Saleh are spread out across a vast desert but as part of the visit, you can tour around with a pretty cool Vintage Jeep.
Dahab is a lovely touristic beach town inhabited by Bedouins in the Sinai peninsula, which is considered the most backpacking-friendly place (and probably the only one) in the Middle East.
For decades, Dahab has attracted travelers from all over the world for having some of the best diving in the country. In Dahab, one comes for two things: either scuba diving or doing literally nothing, as it has this laid-back atmosphere that consists of going to the beach, smoking weed and eating at the several seafood restaurants.
Besides, due to the massive drop of the Egyptian Pound, in Dahab, you could easily rent a full apartment (2 beds with Wi-Fi) for less than 9USD a day.
If making a trip to Lebanon to visit the ruins of Baalbek sounds too hardcore for you but you still want to travel to the Middle East, perhaps you should consider visiting Jerash, another of the greatest Roman ruins outside of Italy, constructed in some of the most fertile valleys in the region, today comprising green, rolling hills filled with olive and fig trees.
The location, therefore, is not a coincidence because, when it was built around 2,000 years ago, the Romans wanted to make it a great city due to the richness of the land.
Jerash, one of the finest Roman ruins to travel in the Middle East
A rocky desert land composed of stunning fiords, cliffs and one of the largest varieties of wildlife in the Middle East, Musandam (often called the Norway of the Middle East) is a piece of territory within the UAE that belongs to Oman.
It’s located north of UAE, projecting into the Strait of Hormuz.
Musandam is a pretty common destination among expats living in Dubai but still, the area remains pretty untouched. Along the coast, you find several beaches only occupied by the local Omanis, who like to gather with their families for barbecues during the weekends. Expect several families to invite you to join them.
In Musandam, you could also rent an abra (a local traditional boat) to sail around the fiords and observe the wildlife. Meeting dolphins is almost guaranteed and, if you are into snorkeling, you can see that the deep and dark waters of Musandam are also home to coral, turtles and manta rays, among other things.
Hebron is the city where the Tomb of the Patriarchs stands, the place where Abraham, Jacob and Isaac are buried.
The Tomb of the Patriarchs is one of the holiest places for both Muslims and Jews.
This means that both religions are sharing an important holy place but, on top of that, Hebron also happens to be the only city in Palestine where Jewish settlements are within the city itself.
In the old part of the city, the local Palestinians have built a fence that serves as a roof to prevent the settlers who live in the upper floors throwing garbage to them.
To add more tension to the conflict, during the holy month of Ramadan in 1994, a Jew entered the Tomb of Patriarchs (in the mosque inside), opened fire and killed 29 Muslims during prayer time.
Since then, the area is strictly controlled and, both Jewish and Muslim prayer areas are strictly separated. Abraham is buried in the middle of the Tomb of the Patriarchs, right between the synagogue and the mosque, so the members of both religions can see his tomb from their prayer room.
If you either want just to relax, eat good food, visit beautiful Christian monasteries or to go hiking, the Kadisha Valley in Lebanon will always be the perfect place for you.
Kadisha means ”holy” and owes this name to the fact that this valley is home to some of the most ancient communities of monastic Christians in the Middle East.
In case you don’t know it, monasticism is a way of life for which the person (in this case the Christian monks) renounces to everything to devote himself completely to spiritual work. The valley is full of natural caves, difficult to access, that once served as places of isolation for the monks living lives devoted to Christ.
Kadisha is a really unique place to visit in the Middle East.
Qadisha Valley, located in the north of the country – Travel to the Middle East
30 – Leptis Magna, first league Roman ruins by the Mediterranean
Leptis Magna was a prominent city in Roman Libya, originally a Phoenician town (7th century BCE) that quickly expanded under the Roman Empire. The ruins are in excellent condition, and the whole complex is huge.
Its particular attraction is that the ruins are built right next to the shore, including the fantastic amphitheater.
Leptis Magna can easily be reached from Tripoli in around two hours, making it the perfect day trip from the capital and a default in all the group expeditions we organize.
Another great place to visit in the Middle East are the Arab Marshes, a wetland ecosystem located in south Iraq, sort of an aquatic landscape located in the Iraqi desert.
It occupies an area of 10,000km2, inhabited by water buffaloes and all sort of animals and plants.
The Marshes are also home to a distinct cultural group: the Marsh Arabs, who populate the different islands, living in their sarifas, a peculiar house entirely made of reed.
The Marshes can be visited from the southern city of Nasiriyah and the best way to experience it is on a boat tour.
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A Marsh Arab
32 – Manama – Drugs and rock & roll
Country – Bahrain
In case you’ve never heard of it, Bahrain is a tiny country (one of tiniest in the world actually) located in the Persian Gulf, between Qatar and Saudi Arabia, and Manama is its capital.
To make it short, Bahrain is the only Arab Gulf Monarchy that has run out of petrol, or at least, can’t rely on the petrol income anymore.
In desperation, looking at alternative ways of gaining income, Bahrain became the party place in the Middle East, where concerning prostitution, alcohol, and parties, in general, are more permissive than in any other Gulf country.
Connected to Saudi Arabia by a bridge, every week, thousands of Saudis cross the border to have fun and enjoy a relative level of freedom.
Besides, this is the only place in the Middle East where I’ve seen two homosexuals making out in the middle of the street.
Manama is also home to many Western expats, who hang out in a popular area called Adliya, which has plenty of bars and wall paintings and makes one forget that he or she is in the Middle East.
Bahrain is, unequivocally, one of the most surreal places to travel and visit in the Middle East.
A particular wall painting in Bahrain – Best places to visit in the middle east
Established on the shore of the great Nile river and surrounded by both mango plantations and desert, Luxor is the world’s greatest open-air museum.
This is the place where the most well-known pharaohs come from, like Tutankhamun for example, and most of the temples are either in excellent conditions or perfectly restored.
From large and epic tombs to temples constructed on a giant scale, all of them dating from between 3,200 B.C. and 1,500 B.C, Luxor is an unmissable place to travel in the Middle East.
Not so long ago, the Roman ruins of Palmyra used to receive hundreds of thousands of tourists every year.
Dating back to the second millennium BC, it has been inhabited for more than 4,000 years before becoming part of the Roman Empire during the first century AD.
It used to be an important trade caravan route and its wealth allowed them to build monuments such as the Temple of Bel and the Great Colonnade.
Nowadays, the city of Palmyra is a ghost town, a direct consequence of the battle against ISIS but the archaeological area has re-opened for tourists, always escorted by a member of the Syrian Army.
The Temple of Bell is practically all ruins but Palmyra is a big complex and many of its marvels are still standing.
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The remains of the Temple of bEL
35 – Salalah – Coconuts, pineapples, and tropical rain
What if I tell you that there’s a place in the Persian Gulf where it rains, which it’s full of green meadows and the locals sell coconuts and pineapples?
This place is called Salalah, a city found in the most southern part of Oman, very close to the Yemeni border.
Salalah, and the region of Dhofar, is an area that experiences a monsoon season.
This season is called Khareef and occurs from July till September. During this season, Salalah becomes a beautiful and lush green, which attracts visitors from all over the country, as well as Saudi Arabia and UAE, who want to run away from their disgustingly hot and humid weather.
However, unless you are an ardent Christian, the most interesting part of Bethlehem is to get a close feeling of the consequences of the Israeli occupation as, after the Second Intifada, in 2001, Israel built an 8-meter wall that would finally isolate the West Bank from Israel.
The wall, however, was built within Palestinian territory, hence the Israelis stole some of their land.
Literally, it passes by the center of the city and it is decorated with plenty of Pro-Palestinian paintings, including a real work from the famous Banksy, the white pigeon.
The Dragon Blood Tree is a tree native to Socotra (Yemen), named its blood-like sap. It’s also the national symbol of Socotra.
In the heart of Socotra island, you find Hutan Dara, a forest home to thousands of these trees, truly the one of the most magical places in all of Yemen and the Middle East.
Wild camping in Huta Dara is allowed and perfectly possible.
Located in the Persian Gulf, right in the Strait of Hormuz, between Oman and Iran, Qeshm is an island with amazing geological formations, as well as very rich wildlife.
This is what most travelers come here for but, in my opinion, the most interesting part of the island is to get immersed in the local culture, as this is the only place that has been able to preserve the fast-disappearing Persian Gulf culture, today only visible here and in a few other places in Oman.
Unlike the rest of Iran, people here are Sunnis, from the conservative branch actually, Wahabis, but, since they have a great Iranian influence, they are quite laid back.
Qeshm is a different world from the rest of Iran and it can be seen not only in the religion, the architecture and their food, which is mainly based on seafood but also in the way their women dress, in such colorful abayas and niqabs, like nowhere else you have ever seen.
The Wadi Rum is a beautiful, red-sand-dune desert that stretches across Jordan and north of Saudi Arabia too, in the region of Tabouk.
However, while in Jordan, Wadi Rum has become an extremely touristic place, on the Saudi side, the Saudi Bedouins living there are still genuine and authentic, allowing you to live witness what traditional life is like in Saudi.
Amazing rock formations and camel farms, all without a single tourist around.
That was my list of the best places to travel in the Middle East for next year. Have you been to any? If you have more recommendations or suggestions, feel free to post them in the comments section!
The Nenets are an Indigenous people of Arctic Russia, renowned for their nomadic lifestyle and deep connection to reindeer herding in the remote, unforgiving tundra of northern Siberia, in a region named Yamalia.
Despite their isolation, it is now possible for travelers to visit Nenets camps, a rare opportunity to meet a truly nomadic culture, while witnessing one of the rawest travel experiences.
When it’s best to visit the Nenets: winter or summer?
Travelers interested in this particular part of Russia are often not sure about which season is best for going to Yamalia.
The truth is that both seasons offer incredible experiences, but they’re dramatically different. Here are 30 photos that will help you decide which season is best to travel with us to Yamalia.
Remember that we have the following shceuded for Nenets:
In summer, the landscape is more beautiful, with the tundra being green and covered in wildflowers.
Another great advantage is that you are going to see much more reindeers, since in summer, Nenets need to gather them every day for carrying out different types of tasks.
In summer, Nenets often don’t wear their traditional reindeer-made clothes, but that doesn’t mean you can’t take amazing photos, plus remember the weather is much more pleasant than the freezing Siberian winter.
However, the main advantage of coming here in summer is that you’ll get to witness the migration, as Nenets families move with their reindeer and sledges every one or two days—a dynamic, ever-changing scene that few outsiders ever get to see.
In winter, the whole tundra is frozen, and temperatures drop down to -20ºc and -40ºc. The tundra isn’t as beautiful as in summer but the weather and snow add an epic touch into it. From a weather perspective, it’s colder and more uncomfortable, but don’t worry, chums (local tents) are warm and cozy.
Nenets wear their traditional, reindeer-made clothes, making them particular photogenic.
In winter, you won’t witness Nenets migration (unless staged) but you will be able to see other activities like ice-fishing, or ice collection for their water.
South Ossetia is a breakaway republic that declared independence from Georgia in 2008.
However, it has only been recognized as an independent country by a handful of states—Russia, Venezuela, Vanuatu, Nicaragua, and Syria—making it one of those “ghost countries” that exist in a kind of geopolitical limbo.
This separatist republic, however, has always been the most difficult to visit.
This blog tell you everything you need to know to travel to South Ossetia, including visas, how to get there, places to visit and more.
In this travel guide to South Ossetia, you will find:
Introduction to traveling to South Ossetia
Why are there two Ossetias?
In 1922, as part of a broader Soviet strategy to weaken nationalist movements and centralize control the region of Ossetia was split into two:
North Ossetia became Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic (ASSR) within the Russian SFSR
South Ossetia became an Autonomous Oblast (AO) within the Georgian SSR – the lowest level of autonomy in the Soviet system.
Over the following decades, South Ossetia pushed for a greater autonomy, which was never granted.
South Ossetia main flag and emblem
South Ossetia becomes an independent territory within Georgia (1991-2008)
When the USSR collapsed and Georgia became an independent country, South Ossetia became instantly part of Georgia.
Nevertheless, South Ossetians refused to be under their control, so fighting broke out between Georgian forces and South Ossetian separatists.
A ceasefire was eventually reached, leaving South Ossetia as a de facto independent territory within Georgia. At the time, Georgians made up roughly one third of the population in South Ossetia, and the border with Georgia was open and fully operational.
Tensions, however, always remained.
South Ossetia becomes an independent country (2008)
In 2008, Georgia started a war by bombarding Tskhinvali, accusing Russia of violating agreements by sending troops through the Roki Tunnel and distributing Russian passports to South Ossetians
That short, 5-day war ended with South Ossetia becoming a fully independent country, but only recoginzed by:
South Ossetian passport first pageSouth Ossetian passport front page
Why isn’t Russia absorbing South Ossetia?
Russia already absorbed Crimea, while Ukraine is work in progress, why not taking over South Ossetia?
Russia already gets a lot of benefits from South Ossetia, they fully control it economically and military, but not making it formally part of Russia benefits them even further: it blocks Georgia from joining NATO, since the alliance won’t admit a country with unresolved border disputes.
The Embassy of Transnitria in Tskhinvali
How to get a visa for South Ossetia
For visiting South Ossetia you will need to apply for a permit, which will allow you to collect your visa on arrival at the border.
Permits can only be issued by the South Ossetian migration office, so you’ll need someone local – such as a friend, guide or tour operator – to apply on your behalf.
This local person doesn’t necessarily need to be South Ossetian, but Russians can also obtain the permit for you at the respective office in Vladikavkaz (North Ossetia).
Keep in mind that permits take 30 to 60 days to be issued, so apply well in advance.
What are the South Ossetian permit requirements?
A passport copy and a double-entry Russian visa.
Russia considers South Ossetia as an independent country so, when entering South Ossetia from Russia, you are technically leaving Russian territory and because the border between South Ossetia and Georgia is closed, you will need to return to Russia the same way you came, so a a double-entry visa is strictly required.
Do you get any stamp or proof in your passport that you have traveled to South Ossetia?
No, you don’t.
Russia will issue a brand-new migration card, but they won’t stamp your passport.
Similarly, the visa for South Ossetia is issued as a separate piece of paper.
Therefore, except for your pictures and souvenirs, there won’t be any official proof that you’ve been to South Ossetia, meaning you can travel to Georgia afterwards without issues.
The visa for traveling to South Ossetia
How to travel to South Ossetia
Traveling to South Ossetia from Georgia
The border between Georgia and South Ossetia has been closed since 2008.
Traveling to South Ossetia from Russia
The only way to enter South Ossetia is from Russia via the Roki Tunnel, located 1.5 hours from Vladikavkaz.
From the border to Tskhinvali, the capital of South Ossetia, it’s another 1.5 drive, so roughly 3 hours in total.
However, border formalities on the Russian side can take up to 4 hours, including waiting time and questioning.
In my case, we were 2 foreigners and the total waiting time was 2 hours and 50 minutes. The Russian authorities were friendly but did ask loads of questions, mostly related to my travels – based on the stamps in my passport. They also went through all the pictures on my phone, so make sure to delete any controversial photos before arriving.
On the other hand, the South Ossetian side didn’t take more than 10 minutes.
To be honest, I don’t know if there is any public transportation between Vladikavkaz and Tskhinvali but either way, I strongly recommend entering South Ossetia with the same person who applied for your permit.
The border town in South Ossetia
South Ossetians and their culture
Ossetians are an ethnic group native to the central Caucasus.
Today, the population of Ossetians live spread across North Ossetia and South Ossetia, but they are essentially the same people, with their regional, local differences, just like most nations around the world.
Ossetian is the language spoken by all Ossetians, which is highly related to Iranian, but they use the Cyrillic alphabet and virtually everyone speaks impeccable Russian.
Other than that, while North Ossetia is today more developed and much closer to the Russian culture, South Ossetia remains more traditional, visible in the rural villages and lifestyle of most people in South Ossetia.
The general opinion of South Ossetians toward Georgians is deeply negative.
Georgians are widely seen as aggressors and oppressors, blamed for carrying out ethnic cleansing and mass displacement.
This sentiment is particularly strong among the younger generation, who have grown up with no contact with Georgians and have been exposed to decades of anti-Georgian propaganda, largely driven by Russia.
That’s the general opinion, you asked for it 😉
There are some exceptions, of course—especially among older generations who coexisted with Georgians during Soviet times—but the general rule is that, according to South Ossetians, Georgians are the worst of all evils, and Russians are their saviours.
If you’re travelling in South Ossetia, it’s important not to contradict them—they are extremely sensitive about the topic, and I say this from personal experience.
As someone who lived in Georgia for almost a year and has a big sympathy for Georgians, I tried to give a balanced, unbiased opinion on that matter, not necessarily supporting Georgians, but suggesting that perhaps Georgia’s attack was influenced by obvious Russian provocations—that Russia was looking for an excuse—and that the only real beneficiary of the war was Russia.
However, it was simply impossible to convince them of any of this.
Some South Ossetians hanging our in a pretty area near Tskhinvali
Money & budget for South Ossetia
After the collapse of the USSR in 1991, Georgia introduced the Georgian lari but Russia retained the ruble as its currency.
South Ossetia never fully integrated into post-Soviet Georgia after 1991 so, until 2008, they used both the Georgian lari and the Russian ruble.
When South Ossetia became an independent country in 2008, they abandoned the Lari for good, while adopting the Russian ruble as their official currency, mainly because they didn’t have any financial or base to support its own currency, plus they heavily rely on Russian aid, investments and all sorts of support.
Therefore, in South Ossetia, they use the Russian ruble.
Credit cards, ATM and exchanging money in South Ossetia
South Ossetia is economically integrated with Russia, so sanctions imposed on Russia equally apply here.
Places to visit in South Ossetia: a 3-day itinerary
Unless you are planning to do some hiking, South Ossetia is a small region which you can easily visit in a few days.
Here are the places we visited in South Ossetia in 3 days.
South Ossetia itinerary map
Places to visit in South Ossetia in 3 days
Tskhinvali, capital of South Ossetia
Tskhinvali might be one of the hardest capital names in the world to pronounce.
Rather than a proper capital city, Tskhinvali feels more like a small provincial town. Its southern edge lies right at the border with Georgia.
The city is about 50km from Gori, a popular town in Georgia for being Stalin’s birthplace.
To be honest, there’s not much going on in Tskhinvali, the main highlights being things related to South Ossetia’s independence, such as the Parliament and several Georgian war memorials.
The city also houses a very insightful National Museum and intrepid travelers will certainly enjoy dropping by the embassies of Transnistria and Abkhazia, two breakaway republics with a similar status that recognize South Ossetia.
In fact, our local fixer turned out to be a friend of the Transnistria main representative, with whom we had a few glasses of wine.
The Parliament of South Ossetia is an unmissable place to visit in Tskhinvali
Monastery of Tiri
Tiri is a beautiful Georgian Orthodox monastery dating back to the 8th century that for centuries, played a key role in the spread of Christianity in the South Caucasus.
While some locals – including our fixer – claimed the monastery is Armenian, evidence clearly suggests that it’s Georgian, since it lies within a region that was part of medieval Georgia, plus, architecturally, the ornamentation, and inscriptions are consistent with early medieval Georgian church styles, not Armenian.
The Monastery of Tiri is one of the landmarks to visit in South Ossetia
Ertso Lake
Located at 1,700–1,800 meters above sea level, Ertso lake is a striking, alpine lake easily accessible from the road to Kvaisi, and a great stopover for a picnic lunch.
Ertso Lake in a not very beautiful day in South Ossetia
Kvaisi
Today, Kvaisi is a sleepy town located in western South Ossetia, bordering the province of Racha in Georgia.
Back in the day, however, this mountain town was the industrial and mining hub of South Ossetia, the legacy of which can be seen in the abandoned factories, faded murals, and concrete buildings.
If you are into urban exploration and crumbling Lenin statues and Soviet stuff, it doesn’t get any better than in Kvaisi.
An abandoned mining factory in Kvaisi
Akhalgori (Leningor)
Akhalgori is the most politically sensitive town in South Ossetia.
Until 2008, Akhalgori was the only part in today’s South Ossetia still under Georgian government control, with over 90% of its population being ethnic Georgians.
The town saw no direct battle during the 2008 Russia-Georgia war but after the ceasefire was signed, South Ossetian and Russian forces took over that small piece of territory, displacing most of its Georgian population.
Akhalgori was the original Georgian name and South Ossetians reverted to its Soviet-era name, Leningor.
This is the village of Akhalgori or Leningor
Alpine Brewery
Just outside of Akhalgori, there is a small beer producer named Alpine Brewery.
Your fixer should be able to arrange a visit , followed by a beer tasting, but don’t expect anything fancy. It’s a very local experience, where they’ll likely just hand you a few bottles for you to drink after the tour.
This is what our beer tasting consisted of
Stalin statue
Stalin: Georgian or South Ossetian? Some Ossetians claim that Stalin was South Ossetian, but there’s no historical evidence to support this. If you ever hear it while traveling in South Ossetia, consider it a nationalist narrative rather than a fact: Stalin was born inGeorgia, he was ethnically Georgian, spoke Russian with a Georgian accent and that claim was never promoted during Soviet times.
I have traveled extensively across all the former Soviet Union countries, but it was in South Ossetia where I for the first time I saw a full statue of Stalin (not just a bust) still standing in its original location, exactly where it was first erected in the 1940s.
Before this, I had seen other Stalin statues (only a few though) but they were either busts or had been moved to parks or open-air museums—no longer in their original settings.
As you know, most Stalin statues across the USSR were removed after the speech and report delivered by Nikita Khrushchev on The Cult of Personality and Its Consequences.
This marked the beginning of a broader process of de-Stalinization, during which monuments were dismantled, cities renamed, and Stalin’s legacy critically re-evaluated across the Soviet bloc.
One of the very, very few Stalin statues that remain in the former USSR
More information
📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.
More Travel Guides to Other Unrecognized Countries
Wanna travel to Pakistan with Against the Compass?
Join a group of like-minded travelers in our next scheduled tour in Pakistan:
September 14th to 27th, 2025
If you ever decide to travel to Pakistan, I promise you that you will have the adventure of your lifetime.
From hitchhiking on tractors and psychedelic trucks to driving over extremely narrow mountain roads built on a cliff 1,500 meters high, soldiers who voluntarily give you their AK-47 for taking a photo, the most striking landscape and the fact that you can camp in the middle of a paradise completely by yourself.
Traveling to Pakistan is definitely, the ultimate experience and adventure.
However, this isn’t particularly an easy place to travel in.
Going on a trip to Pakistan requires a little bit of preparation, as well as quite a lot of things to know beforehand.
This Pakistan travel guide contains everything you need to know, including all travel information regarding visas, transportation, cultural etiquette, cultural behavior, costs and more!
In this Pakistan travel guide you will find:
our recommended travel insurance for Pakistan
With its Backpacker plan, IATI Insurance is the best insurance for any kind of adventurous destination, like Pakistan.
📰 What’s it like to travel in Pakistan today
Before 9/11, Pakistan used to be a tourist country.
Well, not that touristic, but its breathtaking mountains were a popular stopover for backpackers going along the famous Hippie Trail.
In fact, in the Northern Areas, you can find a few backpacker hostels which somehow, are the remains of what used to be a popular destination for intrepid backpackers.
The 9/11 attacks, however, along with a big bunch of unfortunate events, usually involving Taliban activity and loads of violence, put an end to the emerging tourism industry.
Fortunately, things have changed.
In the last couple of years, the security situation in Pakistan has dramatically improved and the Northern Areas of Pakistan are, once again, filled with intrepid backpackers who want to visit some of the most jaw-dropping mountain scenery you will ever see, and experience the hospitality Pakistan is famous for.
Nevertheless, despite this massive tourism increase, Pakistan still remains raw, authentic, and genuine, and it will stay like that for a very long time, especially because it is not an easy country to travel to: tourist infrastructure is in an embryonic stage, it is difficult to move around and you won’t meet many foreigners, so that’s why I personally believe that only experienced travelers should go to Pakistan.
However, traveling in Pakistan is one of the most rewarding traveling experiences one can ever have.
random locals, somewhere in Astore Valley
🪪 How to get a visa for visiting Pakistan
Here you have the most updated information
Today, it’s possible to travel to Pakistan with an e-visa.
Join our Pakistan expedition
Join a group of like-minded travelers to visit some remote and off-the-beaten-track valleys in the Northern Areas of Pakistan.
By the way, they also offer a mobile app (available at the same link) where you can submit your application directly from your smartphone.
How long is the Pakistan e-visa valid for?
By default, you will get a single-entry visa, which allows you to stay in Pakistan for 3 months.
How much does the e-visa for Pakistan cost?
As of September 2025, the new e-visa for Pakistan is free of charge.
How long does it take to get the e-visa?
Although the official website states that processing takes 7–10 days, most travelers report receiving their visa within a few hours of submission.
How to make a visa extension for Pakistan
If you need a longer stay or multiple entries, you can apply for a multiple-entry visa valid for more than 6 months directly through the same online portal.
My visa for Pakistan, with both the entry & exit stamps, which I got at the Consulate of Barcelona. That was back in 2017, when an e-visa for Pakistan wasn’t available yet.
🗺️ How to sign up for a tour in Pakistan
Traveling with a group and an expert local guide will make things much easier, and more fun!
14 days exploring the Northern Areas, including driving through the Karakoram Highway, as well as exploring the barely visited valleys of Shimshal and Astore.
Against the Compass has the following scheduled Pakistan expedition:
🚑 Travel insurance for traveling in Pakistan
Pakistan is an adventurous destination, so we recommend going there with proper travel insurance.
Their backpacker plan covers all types of adventure activities, including trekking
Very competitive prices
Readers of this blog can get a 5% exclusive discount
Rakaposhi Base Camp, one of the top and most accessible mountains I climbed when I visited Pakistan
⛅ Best time to visit Pakistan
Pakistan has many different regions, ranging from sea-level, flat deserts to 8,000-meter peaks, so each season will present its own peculiarities.
Traveling in Pakistan in winter (mid-November to February)
The best time to visit the south part of the country, especially Sindh province. Those lands may not have the mountains Pakistan is famous for but this is the most religiously diverse region in Pakistan.
On the other hand, most mountains in northern Pakistan remain totally inaccessible in the wintertime. You can still get to the Northern Areas through the Karakoram Highway, but you won’t be able to visit any side valley.
Traveling in Pakistan in summer (June to September)
The best season for visiting the Northern Areas, especially if you like trekking in high-altitude mountains.
Traveling in Pakistan in spring & Autumn
I personally traveled to Pakistan in April and May and the mountains were at their best, as the weather was gorgeous (most days), plus they weren’t busy with domestic tourism.
Traveling in Pakistan during Ramadan
A topic by itself, with its pros & cons.
Lost with Purpose traveled in Pakistan during Ramadan and wrote this insightful post.
This photo was from mid-April. Not bad!
🛫 How to travel to Pakistan
How to travel to Pakistan by air
Karachi, Lahore, and Islamabad have international airports connecting with Istanbul and many Middle Eastern cities, especially Doha and Dubai.
How to travel to Pakistan by land
Pakistan shares a border with Iran, Afghanistan, India, and China.
How to travel from Afghanistan to Pakistan by land
With the new Taliban Government, the border crossing at Khyber Pass is fully open, and no permits are required.
We crossed it in 2023, it’s quite an adventure.
Pakistan-Afghanistan border crossing back in 2023!
How to travel from China to Pakistan by land
At 4600 meters above sea level, this is one of the highest border crossings in the world.
Khunjerab Pass, the Pakistani-Chinese border and one of the highest border crossing in the world
🕌 Cultural behavior and facts when traveling in Pakistan
Urdu, which is like Hindi, is the official language
However, each region has its own (or several) local languages, so different from each other. English is widely spoken among educated people, like in India.
Pakistan is one of the most ethnically and culturally diverse countries
From the South Asian-looking people of Punjab and Sindh; to the people of the Pashtun areas, closer to Iran or Afghanistan; the pagan culture of Kalash; the Shias from Gilgit and Nagar; the Ismailis of lower Hunza and the Wakhis (and also Ismailis) of upper Hunza.
Traveling in Pakistan is like traveling in several, different tiny countries. It’s fascinating.
Remember, you are the guest
People tend to say that, in Iran, Sudan and Iraqi Kurdistan, you find the most hospitable people in the world.
Well, clearly, they haven’t visited Pakistan.
Whereas it’s true that these countries are very hospitable, Pakistanis bring it to the next level. In this country, you are the guest, which means that the locals strive for you to have the best possible time in their country or region.
The hospitality can even be overwhelming
During your trip to Pakistan, you’ll be invited for lunch, dinner and even to stay at people’s houses so many times that, on many occasions, you will have to refuse.
After your refusal, they will insist once again, over and over.
They will also insist on carrying your bag and offering you food one hundred times even if you say that you are full.
These are their cultural rules and you are the guest.
So overwhelming, but just don’t get angry
One day, some random men who I had never seen before came to my hotel at 7:30 am in the morning, knocking at the door of my room, waking me up from a very good sleep.
Apparently, they heard that there was a foreigner in the village, so they just wanted to hang out with me.
I got a little bit angry, continued sleeping but then I kind of felt bad, as all they wanted was to show me around the village.
Paying for meals
For some reason, Pakistanis always want to pay for your meals to the extent that it gets awkward.
I personally didn’t like it, especially when I could see that the local people didn’t have much money.
If possible, try to back them up.
Wearing a Shalwar Kameez
The traditional Pakistani dress, which 80% or 90% of Pakistanis wear, is called shalwar kameez.
Should you wear it?
It’s not compulsory but, if you do, the locals will really appreciate it, especially in the Pashtun areas.
Islam
Pakistan is the most conservative country I’ve ever been to.
You should be careful and always respect their rules.
If you do, they will also respect you and you will have the best time in their country.
Multan shrine, one of the most beautiful places to visit in Pakistan
⚠️ Security and safety when you travel in Pakistan
Wanna travel to Pakistan with Against the Compass?
Join a group of like-minded travelers in our next scheduled tour in Pakistan:
May 18th to 31st, 2025
Pakistan is not dangerous but you should be cautious.
You might have read from other blogs that Pakistan is one of the safest countries in the world.
Personally, I wouldn’t say that. Whereas I think that Pakistan is not a dangerous country, in some areas, it’s better to be cautious, especially in the southern part of the country.
However, the situation is only getting better and better
Seriously, safety in Pakistan has improved exponentially.
Police are there to help you
Throughout your Pakistan travels, you’ll be continuously interrogated by dozens of different policemen and people from the army.
Who are you? Why are you here? Where are you going?
Unlike in other countries, in Pakistan, the police and military are pretty cool and, for your own security, they are commanded to ask you these questions.
Update: This doesn’t really apply in the north of Pakistan any longer, but more like in the south, Sindh and Balochistan provinces.
Bring passport & visa photocopies
It’s good to bring loads of photocopies because, at some check posts, if you have a passport copy, you don’t have to get out of the car. Otherwise, you are going to waste your time.
Occasionally, you get a personal guard, for free
For security purposes, in some areas, you will get a personal armed guard.
Sometimes, you might have to pay for his meals but, according to the police, you are not forced to.
Update: This doesn’t really apply in the north of Pakistan any longer, but more like in the south, Sindh and Balochistan provinces.
Having a personal armed guard seems kind of cool but, to be honest, it’s not that much
The first time you get an armed guard you get kind of excited. However, after half an hour, you might start hating him because he will put you under a lot of restrictions.
Pakistani intelligence is one of the best secret services in the world
One of the reasons why Pakistan is not a dangerous country is thanks to the Pakistani intelligence, which is considered the best intelligence corps in the world, even better than the CIA.
Be aware that they are watching your steps and they will always know where you are.
I remember that, while hiking around a remote area in the Astore Valley, a man wearing a salwar kameez (the traditional Pakistani clothes), came to me and said, ”You are the Spanish, right?” Yes, he was from Pakistani intelligence.
For further information on safety, including which areas are the safest, read my post: Is Pakistan safe?
I know, I am quite a badass… 😀 – My trip to Pakistan
💃 Solo female travel in Pakistan
Women traveling solo is more common and safer than you think
Women tell wonderful things about their experiences during their journeys through Pakistan, but they also say that this is a particularly challenging destination, home to a very conservative, patriarchal society who don’t really know how to deal with foreign women.
I’m not the most qualified person to talk about this topic, however, but Spanish traveler Leti Lagarda backpacked in Pakistan solo for 2 months, and has written a compelling guide about it, which will tell you everything you need to know about solo female travel in Pakistan, including:
Wi-Fi is often bad, so I recommend getting a SIM Card for your trip to Pakistan. In larger cities, however, hotels will often have decent wI-Fi, good enough for simple browsing.
In the Northern Areas, Wi-Fi is generally awful, if present at all.
SIM Card in Pakistan
4G works reasonably well across the country, except in the Northern Areas.
I recommend getting either ZONG or Telenor.
In the Northern Areas, you can buy a SIM Card from a regional provider named SCOM, whose offices can be found in Gilgit and Karimabad. Nevertheless, remember that there’s very little coverage throughout the region.
Hiking around Kalam, Swat Valley, one of the most beautiful places I from my Pakistani trip
eSIM for browsing, calling and traveling in Pakistan
Basically, an eSIM is a regular SIM card with a digital format that works like a normal physical SIM card, with the added benefit that you can buy it from home before the beginning of your trip, hence avoiding the hassle of buying it at your destination.
With Holafly, you can get a SIM Card for a wide range of destinations, including Pakistan.
Moreover, you can benefit from a 5% discount with the following code: AGAINSTTHECOMPASS
Get a VPN for traveling in Pakistan
You should always use a VPN when you travel, especially when you connect to public Wi-Fi networks.
Your connection will be much safer.
Moreover, you will be able to access content which is typically censored in Pakistan.
I recommend ExpressVPN – Extremely easy to use, fast and cheap.
In Pakistan, they use the Pakistani Rupee (PKR) and approximately:
1USD = 280 PKR
Cash & ATMs
Pakistan is a cash economy, so better bring cash, especially in the Northern Areas.
You can find ATMs in all big cities but not all of them will accept foreign cards.
How much does it cost to travel to Pakistan
But before, a few things you need to know:
In Pakistan, everything is negotiable: Everything can be bargained for, especially the hotel rooms. Expect to pay different amounts from other guests.
Always come with a reference: When you travel in Pakistan, contacts are very important and that’s why in either hotels or trekking tour companies if you come referenced by a local, you will get a better price.
In any case, this is a pretty cheap country and I think you can easily travel to Pakistan for less than $20 a day, sleeping in private rooms and eating 3 meals outside.
These are the (approximate) prices of the most typical things:
Local meal – 150PKR
Local meal in a mid-range restaurant – 250-500PKR
Meal in a fancy restaurant of Lahore – from 1500PKR
Private room in a budget hotel – Up to 1500PKR
Private room in a mid-range hotel – Around 3,000PKR
Long bus rides (Islamabad to Gilgit) – Around 2,500PKR for a VIP ticket (you want to get a VIP, trust me)
Pakistani rupees! – Pakistan travel blog
🛺 Transportation for traveling around Pakistan
You’ll get used to the mountain roads
Most mountain roads are very scary as they are extremely narrow and built on insanely high cliffs. Don’t panic. You’ll just get used to them!
You will learn to be patient
In aalmost every long bus journey I took, we had a breakdown. Sometimes, we were stopped for two hours!
And one day, we stopped because the bus ran out of gas!
Psychedelic trucks are a way of life
Everybody falls in love with the trucks in Pakistan, as they are so particularly decorated that they are a blessing to your lens.
A typical Pakistani truck!
Ways of moving around when you travel in Pakistan
Traveling around Pakistan by train
Pakistan has an extensive rail network connecting many cities in Sindh, Punjab and also Peshawar.
Daewoo is a premium bus company that can take you anywhere across Afghanistan.
For traveling to the Northern Areas, I recommend NATCO.
Both these companies are considered high-end as per Pakistani standards. Alternatively, local minivans are much cheaper, but they are very uncomfortable.
One of the worst bus trips I have ever taken was in a local minivan from Mingora to Chitral, a 12-hour ride in the tiniest minivan ever, but a great local adventure and experience.
Hitchhiking in Pakistan
Hitchhiking in Pakistan is too easy, easier and faster than traveling by public transportation, especially along the Karakoram Highway.
Everybody will want to pick you up!
As a general rule, on the KKH, I didn’t hitchhike on motorbikes (there are too many accidents) and cars with women inside.
Traveling around Pakistan by plane
Flying can be pretty convenient as well.
Traveling by bus from Islamabad to the Northern Areas, including Chitral, Gilgit and Skardu takes ages (from 15 to 20 hours).
There are flights connecting Islamabad with all these cities. You can book them on PIA.
Remember, however, that for flying to and from Gilgit, it’s recommended to book several days or weeks in advance. Also, bear in mind that many flights get canceled due to weather condition.
Crazy (and beautiful) roads – How to visit Pakistan
🍲 Food, drinks, and alcohol
Food is extremely oily
Pakistanis love oil too much. They put tons of it in absolutely every meal, including in the steamed rice, which they will always fry afterwards. When you are in a restaurant, always ask for half fried.
It’s almost dry
In the Sindh province and Islamabad, you can find liquor stores. In the rest of the country, alcohol is only available on the black market, but most locals (who drink) can get it for you easily.
Expect to have ten cups of chai a day
Chai, which is tea with milk, is a way of life in Pakistan and a sign of hospitality.
Tap water, watch out!
Don’t dare drink tap water. In the northern part of the country, the locals will tell you that the tap water is good, as it comes from the mountains and glaciers. This may be true, but I still got sick when I drank from a mountain fountain. Always use a water purifier.
You’ll get sick
I don’t know anyone who didn’t get sick in his stomach when traveling in Pakistan. Try to avoid salad, food stalls with flies (they are hard to find) and don’t drink tap water.
This meal, in particular, was one of my favorite ones in Pakistan – Pakistan travel information
🏨 Accommodation when you are traveling to Pakistan
There are all types of hotels across the country, from budget rooms to a few hostels and luxury hotels.
Booking sites such as Hostelworld and Booking.com are increasing in popularity but, depending on the destination you travel to, you may not find a lot of options or, at least, no budget hotels.
If you want to stay in a budget hotel or local guesthouse, you may have to read blogs or ask anyone online. In my Pakistan Itinerary, I give some options.
Anyway, there are a few things you need to know about accommodation in Pakistan:
Prices can be negotiated to the extreme
Whenever they tell you the price, ask if they have a cheaper room. Seriously, on many occasions, I managed to get half of the initial price.
If you are on a budget, always ask if they have a dorm
Surprisingly, many hotels have dorms and they don’t tell you until the end of the negotiation. The good thing is that, since there are not many backpackers, you are most likely to get the dorm just for yourself!
It can be hard to find decent, cheap accommodation in certain parts of the country
In cities like Peshawar, Karachi, Multan, and basically anywhere outside of Swat Valley, Chitral, Northern areas, Islamabad and Lahore, finding decent (budget) accommodation can be challenging.
Couchsurfing is very popular!
There are loads of profiles, especially in big cities.
If you want to know all my hotel recommendations per city, read my Pakistan Itinerary
Husseini bridge, Hunza, a top place to visit when traveling to Pakistan
❗ More information for traveling to Pakistan
📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.
All guides and articles for traveling in Pakistan destination
That’s everything you need to know! If you think I forgot something, please let me know! Ah, and remember that, in Pakistan, you shouldn’t plan too much! Welcome to the country of unexpected events. From endless bus breakdowns to time-consuming check posts, new local friends and paradises where you want to spend ages, during your Pakistan travels, you will realize that nothing will go according to your plan.
Wanna travel to Pakistan with Against the Compass?
Join a group of like-minded travelers in our next scheduled tour in Pakistan:
September 14th to 27th, 2025
Pakistan is in fashion.
Backpackers and travelers alike from around the world are realizing that Pakistan is not only a beautiful country, but it can offer some of the most ultimate adventures.
Despite this recent massive increase in popularity, however, Pakistan is still miles away from being a proper tourist destination and proof of that is that still today, some people can only relate Pakistan to negative things, such as terrorist attacks, Taliban activities and Islamic radicalism.
I partly attribute these negative associations to the Westen media, which has done nothing but portray the worst face of Pakistan, especially since the 9/11 attacks.
That’s why, in this post, I wanted to show you 60 photos of Pakistan that you won’t see in the news, because Pakistan is simply awesome.
60 Photos of Pakistan that you won’t see in the news
Pakistan is the only country home to the 4 highest mountain ranges on Earth, including the Himalayas, the Karakorum, the Pamirs and the Hindu Kush.
In fact, the second-highest mountain in the world is found in Pakistan, K2 (8,611meters) and it belongs to the Karakoram range.
Besides those internationally famous mountains, Pakistan is also home to several dreamy valleys and which you don’t want to miss. I spent 2 months backpacking in Pakistan, and spent most of this time in the mountains. Here are some of my favorite pics.
Rakaposhi base camp, camping at around 3500 meters above sea level, right next to a giant ice wall, from where we could hear the continuous sound of avalanchesSame place as the previous photo, but from over a ridge, at the bottom of mount Rakaposhi (7,778 meters)Here we are at Nanga Parbat base camp. Absolutely mind-blowingThis is also Nanga Parbat (8,100 meters) a couple of kilometers before the base campThis is the village of GulmitIn Pakistan, we walked over glaciers full of crevasses, the first time in my lifeThese are the kind of glaciers we walked through. The man in the photo is a local Pakistani mountain guideClimbing a glacier with some Thai friendsWith some friends in Yezyl, one of the most beautiful glaciers in Pakistan, in Shimshal ValleyMore pictures of Yezyl glacier in ShimshalThis is Passu suspension bridgePakistan, however, is also home to beautiful lush green valleys. This is Swat, in Kalam districtMore pictures of Passu peaksSame place, Kalam, in Swat. The region of Swat has big similarities to Switzerland. This is one of my most favorite pictures.
This picture was taken on the hike from Hussaini to Passu suspension bridge
The hike to Borith lake
Hanging out in a hotel in Swat. It looks like a dreamy hotel, and it really was but seriously, it was just a very basic shack in the middle of the mountainsIn Swat, you find some of the most beautiful forests in the countryRocking my salwar kameez, somewhere in the Swat ValleyBeautiful Swat Valley 🙂Somewhere in the Astore Valley. With some local, Pakistani friends, we went for a long fishing weekendThe Astore Valleys sits on the other side of Nanga ParbatAnd it links to Pakistani Kashmir, which you will reach if you follow this trailWhat I loved about the Astore Valley is that you get pretty damn amazing views but also, those mountains are filled with tiny villages, so you get in touch with the local culture as well Enjoying my time in a local village in Astore ValleyDuring the day, my Pakistani friends spent all day fishing. I spent some time fishing with them in the morning but then, I was exploring the surroundings just by myselfEpic views in the Astore ValleyLooking over Astore Valley. I really love this picture I absolutely love these human encounters. Those moments make me feel very happy when I am travelingOr this oneI mean, isn’t that beautiful? Being able to explore those striking mountains and, at the same time, being the only tourist in a place full of hospitable, kind-hearted localsCheck out this tiny settlementExploring the Astore Valley was perhaps, my best experience in Pakistan
Pakistan is also famous for the Karakoram Highway, one of the highest paved roads in the world that links Islamabad with Kashgar ( China), and also goes over Khunjerab Pass, one of the highest border crossings in the world, around 4,600 meters.
The Karakoram HighwayFrom the Karakoram Highway, you get to see bridges like this oneThe views from across the previous bridgeOr these mountains, perfectly visible from the window of your carTraffic jam in the Karakoram Highway. And you will be able to see plenty of Pakistani trucksThe main town in the northern part of the Karakoram Highway is Karimabad, inhabited by the Hunza people (an ethnic group who practice a very moderate branch of Islam) and home to Baltit fortSame, but a different perspectiveMore photos of the Karakoram HighwayAnd moreThis isn’t the Karakoram Highway but it is a crazy side road that leads to Fairy Meadows, close to Nanga Parbat base camp. The beginning of this road is at a junction in the Karakoram Highway
But Pakistan is not only about landscapes, but also beautiful people who will be continuously blessing you with their hospitality, and the thing you will always remember the most when you get back home, are the interactions with the local people.
Expect, literally, hundreds of house, lunch, dinner and tea invitations.
Local Pashtuns, in PeshawarThese guys are just fucking awesomeThe people here are truly authenticAnd street photography opportunities are greatYou not only get to see the Himalayas but also camels and beach!I met these 2 guys in Astore ValleyAnd the cultural diversity is also great. This is a Kalash woman, an ethnic group from northwestern Pakistan with traditional, pagan beliefsAnd this Hollywood-actor looking man is from a very remote Pakistani village, right across the Afghan border
And then, of course, you get all mosques and shrines Pakistan is famous for. You may already know it from the news, of course, but, did you know they were so beautiful?
This is Bdashi mosque, the most impressive mosque in LahoreAnd then you have this Sufi shrine in Multan. Sufism is the mystical branch of IslamAnd the second most important mosque in Lahore, Wazir KhanThis isn’t a famous mosque but I like it. You can find it in ChitralThis photo might be more similar to what you have seen in the news but still, it’s fucking awesome
More information for visiting Pakistan
📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.
Many of these remote locations, for one reason or another, happen to be in countries ruled by controversial regimes, usually not particularly good friends with the West.
As a result, we are often facing criticism, with some accusing us of supporting those governments simply by traveling there.
This article explains why there’s nothing inherently wrong with visiting such countries — and why, as long as you’re a conscious and respectful traveler, you should feel free to explore the world without self-censorship.
You shouldn’t be selective with your principles, double standards aren’t good
Fact: The countries typically not accepted to travel are shaped by geopolitics, rather than ethics.
Today, Russia is arguably the country that faces the greatest stigma as a travel destination.
After our recent trips to the North Caucasus republics and Siberia, I received more messages than ever — not about the places themselves, but about the supposed controversy of traveling to what many now see as the West’s number-one enemy.
Some people were polite, expressing disagreement while still respecting my decision. Others, however, were openly hostile.
What I find interesting is that some of the most vocal critics were the same travelers who have always been keen to travel to Syria, or who already traveled there after 2019.
Former Syrian dictator Bashar al-Assad murdered hundreds of thousands of people, while forcing millions to flee the country. His brutal repression originated into a conflict which has not ended yet, since there are still war zones where people live under constant threat.
So if we look purely at the numbers — at the scale of violence, repression, and humanitarian crisis — wouldn’t Syria be an even more ethically difficult destination than Russia?
Why is it OK to visit Turkmenistan, Eritrea and North Korea, the 3 most repressive countries in the world, but it’s not OK to travel to Russia?
We can’t turn a blind eye to what is happening to Ukraine but just because the Russian Government is the biggest strategic rival of the West, doesn’t mean that the lives of Syrians and Afghan women are less worth than Ukrainians’.
If we apply outrage selectively, we’re not standing on principle — we’re just echoing foreign policy and Western media headlines.
Moscow is beautiful, just as it used to be back in 2022
Travel is something personal
Afghanistan is the country in the world where women’s rights are most violated.
Traveling is very personal so, if a certain traveler doesn’t want to travel to Afghanistan because of that, we should respect it because that’s their decision.
Remember that you aren’t traveling there to violate women’s rights further, but to learn, observe, break stereotypes and become wiser.
At the same time, it’s important to stay sensitive to the struggles of the people living under such regimes, and to travel in ways that support them, not their oppressors.
Afghan women in the city of Kandahar, one of the hardest places in the world to live as a woman
It’s not the local people’s fault. Travel to break stereotypes
It’s important to always separate people from Governments.
Leaders like Netanyahu are responsible for military actions in Gaza and yes, he has a large support among Israelis but at the same time, millions oppose his agenda and are horrified by all the violence.
Many Israelis I know feel extremely ashamed of the war in Gaza, just as I’ve met Russians in Moscow who are heartbroken about what’s happening in Ukraine.
Nobody likes war, or to live under sanctions.
Traveling to these countries allows you to get an unbiased perspective of the local’s opinion on the matter, something you’ll never see in the media.
It builds bridges and breaks down stereotypes, which might even work both ways, since it shows locals that not all foreigners are hostile, arrogant, or judgmental.
A nomad woman from the Siberian tundra. What does she have to do with the war in Ukraine-
You actually do more for the country than any armchair activist
An armchair activist refers to the person who likes to express strong opinions about political issues on social media but doesn’t take any action beyond that.
If you travel to countries with controversial regimes and like to post about it on Instagram, you are likely to be the target of an armchair activist, that’s what they do.
As I mentioned in the previous section, don’t let others shame you for your travels, you may actually be contributing more than they realize, as long as you are a responsible traveler, of course.
By backpacking in a country independently, having genuine local interactions, and spending money in local, small businesses, you are engaging more with local humans that most do from their couch.
Keep in mind that this isn’t a self-congratulatory statement.
We are travelers, not activists or humanitarian workers but still, I strongly believe that a responsible traveler leaves a more meaningful footprint than what most people on Instagram believe.
The guy on the left offered me to stay with him when I traveled independently to the Minaret of Jam
Those Governments benefit very little from your travels
Armchair activists tend to argue that no matter how responsibly you travel, part of your money will always end up in the hands of the Government.
Sure, that’s actually true.
During Bashar al-Assad’s regime, for example, the cost of the Syrian visa for Europeans was €70.
That money went directly to an evil Government but, are those €70 making any difference?
In reality, think about it as it was a trade-off.
You pay a €70 visa fee but then, you spend cash €1500 in family-owned hotels, local restaurants, and independent guides, while having genuine human interactions.
No trip is ethically perfect, but a responsible traveler will certainly bring more positive than harm.
Buying xaatar from a locally-owned shop in Aleppo. Buying in these places makes a big difference
Did you ask the local’s opinion?
This doesn’t really apply to places like Russia, but for war-torn countries like Yemen or Syria.
Traveling to Yemen is like slapping on the faces of all the families who have lost someone in the war.
Have you ever asked Yemenis how they feel about foreign visitors?
In my opinion, making such strong statements on behalf of people you have never talked to comes close to colonialism.
There isn’t any tourism industry left in Yemen, locals barely benefit financially from your visit, but there are few countries left in the world where where people are so excited to see a foreigner.
In places like Yemen or Syria, your presence can feel like a sign that the outside world isn’t forgetting them, or even an inflection point that their country is getting better, but that’s something you won’t understand unless you see it with your own eyes.
Yemeni people in Mukallah, the city that has suffered the most in the region of Hadramut
More information
📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.
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Travel guide to countries with controversial regimes
Update 2025: The border between Georgia and Abkhazia has been closed since 2020. Today, you can only visit Abkhazia from Russia, for which you’ll need a double-entry visa. Read our Russian visa guide for more information.
I was in no man’s land, walking the couple of kilometers that separate Georgia from Abkhazia, still thinking about the last thing that the Georgian officer told me:
Don’t trust Abkhazians – He said after handing my passport back.
It wasn’t the first time I had crossed a non-friendly border but this was the first time I heard an immigration officer saying something like that.
I was getting closer to the Abkhazian border and, as soon as I arrived and said hello to everybody with a big smile, the Abkhazian officer told me:
This bottle of water is not allowed here. Remove the label.
Yes, in effect, my water had a label written in Georgian, and Georgian-related things are not allowed in Abkhazia.
Shit… That was pretty intense.
Things were about to get very interesting and I couldn’t be more excited to be there.
Welcome to the unrecognized Republic of Abkhazia.
This guide contains everything you need to know to travel to Abkhazia, including tips and a 6-day itinerary
Georgia is a complicated country and, in order to make the most out of your visit, I recommend you read 1 or 2 books before your trip. Read: The best books on Georgia country
In this travel guide to Abkhazia you will find:
our recommended travel insurance for Abkhazia
IATI Insurance is one of the very few that covers travel in an unrecognized territory like Abkhazia, but you must select ”GEORGIA’‘.
Introduction to visiting the Republic of Abkhazia
Important – Before you read, please note that I don’t intend to get into politics. Seriously, I am not on any side but I am just a traveler who wants to show the beauty of Abkhazia in the same way that I have been showing other places in Georgia. It is not my business to claim whether Abkhazia is a republic or not and if I say it, it is because this is how Abkhazians say it, not because I care about it. I just want to show the world what my eyes saw from a traveling perspective.
In 1992, after the Soviet Union’s dissolution, Georgia was planning to abolish the Soviet-era constitution and restoring the 1921 Constitution of the Democratic Republic of Georgia.
As a response, in fear of losing their autonomy in favor of Georgia, Abkhazia declared independence unilaterally.
As a consequence, the Georgian army invaded Abkhazia, which turned into a bloody war but, with the help of different Caucasian militias from the south of Russia, Georgia was defeated by Abkhazia.
Abkhazia was in the hands of the Abkhazians, and the ethnic Georgians, who were nearly half of the total population, were either killed or forced to flee the country and that is the reason why there are so many abandoned buildings.
Don’t forget to read my travel guide to Tbilisi, which also includes off-the-beaten-track things to do
Partially abandoned train station in Sukhumi – Abkhazia travel
After a couple of years, Abkhazia was self-proclaimed an independent Republic.
However, nobody in the international community recognized it, so Abkhazia went through a long period of autarchic darkness.
It was only in 2008, after the Georgian-Russian war, that Russia recognized it as a country and decided to back them up economically, in exchange for military presence, among other things I believe.
Today, it is only recognized by a small bunch of countries which, besides Russia, includes Venezuela, Nicaragua, Syria and a few Pacific Islands.
The flags from these countries are waving in the center of the city.
As I said, I don’t want to enter into politics but, regardless of whether they have the right to be independent or not, from a traveling perspective, traveling to Abkhazia feels like being in a different country:
There is a border, you need a country visa, they use the Russian Rubles, cars have an Abkhazian license place, the architecture is different and, as per the people, the culture is slightly different and they speak a distinct language named Abkazh, a Caucasian language that has nothing to do with Georgian.
Abkhazia is, seriously, an amazing destination you can’t miss.
Inside an abandoned building in Sukhumi – Visit Abkhazia
🪪 How to get a visa to Abkhazia
Calm down.
Many travelers seem to be particularly overwhelmed about getting a visa to visit Abkhazia, but you just need to make an easy online application and cross an easy border, that’s it.
You can apply through the official website. Just fill out the application and send them a hard copy of your passport, as stated. You don’t need to pay anything, for now.
After 5 working days, they will email you a security clearance which you need to show at the border. Remember to print several copies, as either Georgian, Russian or Abkhazian authorities may keep one.
Important – The security clearance is not a visa but just the key to enter Abkhazia. Once you are in Abkhazia, you need to pick up your visa at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Sukhumi, within 2-3 days of your arrival. The visa price depends on the length of your stay: I stayed 1 week and paid 350RB (5USD). By the way, you can pay by credit card. This is the location: 42.999895, 41.018142.
My visa to Abkhazia – Visiting abkhazia
How to travel to Abkhazia from Georgia
Very easy.
You first need to take a train to a border city named Zugdidi.
From Tbilisi, there is a night train and morning one. The morning train leaves at 8am and arrives at 1:45pm, whereas the night train arrives at 6-7am.
If you come in the morning, the border will be less busy but it doesn’t open until 8-10am, so you may have to wait for a bit.
Buy your tickets a few days in advance. I bought them online on matarebeli.ge, but you can also get them at the station in Tbilisi.
The train journey to Zugdidi is a very touristic route, as it is the main getaway to Mestia, so the train is packed with tourists, but nobody was traveling to Abkhazia other than me.
The border is less than 10km away. I went to the main bus station in Zugdidi and didn’t find a marshrutka (but there should be one because I took it on the way back), so I jumped into a taxi and paid 8GEL (1.80USD).
You need to tell the guy granitsa, which means border in Russian.
A ceasefire monument you can find in no man’s land. The question is: who paid for it, Abkhazia or Georgia? – can you travel to Abkhazia
The border to enter to Abkhazia is divided into 4 stages:
Georgian border – It took me 20 minutes. They don’t stamp your passport because, in their eyes, you aren’t leaving Georgia.
A few kilometers of no man’s land – You need to walk 2 or 3km and cross the bridge that goes over the Enguri river.
Abkhazian border – It took me 30 minutes.
Russian checkpoint – Despite not even being their country, the Russians authorities are the most annoying. It took me two hours to cross it, not only because it was slower but because they took me to a different room and ask loads of questions about my previous trip to Iran.
After the Russian checkpoint, congratulations.
You are officially in the unrecognized Republic of Abkhazia.
If you crossed in the morning, you will find marshrutkas that go straight to Sukhumi.
Otherwise, you will first need to go to Gale (50RB) and then take a second marshrutka to Sukhumi (200RB).
Important information for those coming from Russia – The Russian border is open but you can’t enter from Russia and leave through Georgia, basically because Georgia doesn’t recognize that border, so you won’t be allowed to get in. On the other hand, if you enter Abkhazia through Georgia, you are technically allowed to enter Russia (as long as you have a valid visa) but, if you ever try to come back to Georgia, you may be banned from entering the country or pay a fine.
Welcome to the Republic of Abkhazia – Border – How to travel to Abkhazia
⚠️ Is it safe to travel to Abkhazia?
Tell any Georgian that you want to travel to Abkhazia and they will freak out and tell you that you are completely nuts.
Their opinion is, of course, a little bit biased but we can’t forget that the region is well-known for its crime, especially the southern part, close to the border with Zugdidi, around Gale.
I actually know two cases of people who got robbed there in summer 2018. One was an acquaintance of me and the other was the guys from Kathmandu and Beyond. Read their story here.
The south of Abkhazia used to have the largest population of Georgians and, since all of them left, here you find more abandoned buildings than anywhere else, so robbing tourists is a way to fight their misery.
Don’t be afraid of visiting the south though.
You can go there and explore the different towns during the day, no problem, but if you decide to explore some of the abandoned factories outside, go with a local or a big group.
The rest of the country (my suggested itinerary), however, is safe and everybody is friendly and kind. I remember sitting in a café for breakfast when some random people that were next to me paid for my meal, and I had barely talked to them.
Friendly Abkhazians playing backgammon, somewhere in Sukhumi – Is it safe to travel to Abkhazia
There is no Consulate representation
On the other hand, remember that, in Abkhazia, there is no embassy representation, so if you get into trouble, losing your passport, for example, I don’t know what you could do. Just be aware of this.
🚑 Travel Insurance for Abkhazia
There are no embassies in Abkhazia so, if the unlikely happened to you, better to have proper insurance.
The problem is that most companies won’t cover travel in Abkhazia because it is an unrecognized territory.
The one which does is IATI Insurance, and I recommend it for the following reasons:
All types of plans for all budgets
If you select Georgia (or Europe), you will be covered for travel in Abkhazia.
Covers senior citizens too
The readers of this blog can get an exclusive 5% discount.
💰 Important information about money when you travel in Abkhazia
Currency – They use the Russian Ruble.
Don’t bring Georgian Laris – Except in Gale, you won’t be able to exchange your Laris, so it is better to bring Rubles. You can get them anywhere in Tbilisi.
ATMs – Unlike what you may read in other blogs, most ATMs do accept international credit cards.
How much does it cost to travel to Abkhazia? – The food in Abkhazia is substantially more expensive than Georgia but accommodation is very cheap:
Breakfast – 300RB
Plate of khinkalis – 250RB
Beer – 100RB
Coffee – 80RB
Budget accommodation – From 6USD for a private room
Some fruits in Abkhazia are crazy expensive – Travel in Abkhazia
📍 Places to visit in Abkhazia – 6-day itinerary
The reason for traveling to Abkhazia is not only political but the country is actually beautiful.
In fact, some Georgians claim that Abkhazia is the most beautiful part of Georgia, one of the reasons why it being taken from them is so painful.
You should also know that, during the Soviet Union, Abkhazia was a major touristic destination for Russians and other people from the Soviet Union and, if Abkhazia had not gotten its independence, today it would be the top resort destination in Georgia, not Batumi.
Map of the places to visit in Abkhazia
Day 1, 2 – Sukhumi
Sukhumi is awesome and, even if you only had 2 days to travel to Abkhazia, I still recommend you come and visit it.
Sukhumi is the capital of Abkhazia, a city that, somehow, tries to be cool among all the abandoned buildings and the Soviet-era stuff.
The center of the city is dominated by the abandoned Parliament, which in the past, used to be occupied by the Georgian authorities and, instead of re-occupying it, the Abkhazians left it there.
It is the most impressive abandoned building I saw when I visited Abkhazia and you can actually hang around for as long as you want.
Otherwise, besides going in search of more abandoned buildings (they are everywhere, really), the promenade is pretty cool, as it has a lot of Soviet stuff, as well as a lot of local life.
The background of Sukhumi is dominated by some mountains which you can go up to check the views, visit Bagrat fortress and some abandoned monuments.
Budget Guest House – Roza Guest House – A really good guest house with a very big garden. The owners are a young family which is super nice. I really enjoyed my time here.
Nicer – Guest House GUMA – Also a guest house but it has a better location and it is of a higher quality.
Sukhumi train station – Visit Abkhazia
Day 3 – New Athos
With nearly 1700 years of history, New Athos is the prettiest coastal town in Abkhazia, with blue-turquoise water and dense green forest that grows near the edge of the water.
New Athos is an actual touristic town and you are likely to see loads of Russian tourists around, but many of them are pretty cool, as New Athos is sort of an alternative destination for the average Russian tourist.
In New Athos, you must climb up to the Greek fortress (200RB) on the top of the mountain, to check some incredible views of the bay.
Views from the fortress
Moreover, the New Athos Monastery is one of the prettiest I have seen recently, really. It was built by monks in the 19th century and is a real blessing to your eyeballs.
Apparently, there is also a very impressive cave but I didn’t have time to go there.
How to get to New Athos from Sukhumi
You can easily reach New Athos on a day trip from Sukhumi and marshrutkas run from the main bus station in Sukhumi. It costs 70RB.
Epic New Athos Monastery
Day 4 – Gagra
Gagra is a very touristic beach town.
I didn’t like it, basically because I grew up in a very similar place in Catalonia, so there was nothing new for me and I would have preferred to have this day to explore the area around Gale.
It is a place to just chill at the beach and eat at the many promenade restaurants so, for solo travelers, it can get a bit boring, especially because there are no people to hang out with, basically because nobody speaks English.
What is interesting about it, however, is that this is the warmest town in the entire Black Sea coastline and apparently, in winter, the temperature is high enough to swim, so Gagra has always been a popular getaway for Russians escaping from their utterly freezing weather.
This is the reason why you see so many strange plants such as exotic cactus and things like that, which is very weird, taking into account that we are at the very doors of the Great Caucasus.
Ah, almost forgot! There is an abandoned Music Club which is worth checking out. Right here: 43.290811, 40.260667.
Abandoned music club in Gagra – Really cool
How to get to Gargra from Sukhumi
Marshrutkas cost 130RB and it takes 1 hour and 30 minutes.
Where to stay in Gagra
Budget Guest House – Sunset Guest House – Really cool place. For budget travelers, look no further.
Nicer – Guest House Oniks – Similar concept to the previous but it has higher standards.
Stinky smoked fish somewhere in Gagra – Russians love it, as well as people from Central Asia
Day 5, 6 – Camping at Lake Ritsa
Who would ever say that, at the very shores of this lake, Stalin himself used to spend his holidays in his personal dacha (Russian summer house).
Lake Ritsa was, in fact, a very popular spot for the Soviet elite and, today, you can still visit Stalin’s dacha and, for a few rubles, they will show you the bed where he used to sleep, the toilet where he used to shit and even his personal boat.
The tour is in Russian and nobody speaks English but it was fun enough.
Stalin’s dacha is on the opposite side of the main touristic part of the lake.
Lake Ritsa – Epic
The lake is actually very touristic but this shouldn’t pull you out from coming here because it is pretty big and, like always, people just go to certain areas of the lake.
The place we camped was totally empty, so we had the place for ourselves.
On the second day, we trekked to what is called the Small Ritsa, which is a smaller version of the main lake. It is a half-day trek and we only saw one other group of trekkers.
Alternatively, there are many roads and trails around the lake waiting to be explored.
Good morning from Lake Ritsa – This dog followed me the whole day
How to get to Lake Ritsa from Sukhumi
There is no public transportation, so you need to take a taxi or hitchhike.
I hitchhiked and got picked up by two young Russians who I camped with, so I was very lucky.
You can also book a tour from Sukhumi, which costs around 10USD, but I wouldn’t go there by bus, as you will only have a few hours to enjoy the most touristic part of the lake, without time to go to the other side or even trek to the small Ritsa.
Where to stay in Ritsa Lake
We camped but, if you don’t have a tent, there are a few hotels around, none of them budget though.
I left the lake at around 1pm, after coming back from Small Ritsa and my Russian friends dropped me off in New Athos, from where I took a marshrutka and the driver dropped on the main road between Sukhumi and the border.
I waited for a lift, crossed the border in just a few minutes and, once in Zugdidi, I took a marshrutka to Tbilisi. I think I arrived around 1am.
❗ More information for traveling to Abkhazia
📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.
More Travel Guides to Georgia
More Travel Guides to Other Unrecognized Countries
