برچسب: Civil

  • Understanding the Civil War in Murfreesboro, Tennessee

    Understanding the Civil War in Murfreesboro, Tennessee


    Over the past couple years, we’ve worked on tourism projects with cities large and small across Tennessee, unearthing just how pivotal a role places like Franklin played in the Civil War. We’ve already covered a bit of Civil War history in Franklin but thought the Battle of Stones River and some of the lesser-known Civil War sites in Middle Tennessee also deserved a deep dive.

    Civil War sites in Middle Tennessee

    This post was last updated in August 2025.

    The Civil War in Murfreesboro and beyond

    It’s impossible to understand the geography and psychology of the American Civil War without including Tennessee—Rutherford County, in particular, had a front-row seat to the most devastating war in the history of our country. Armies on both sides, hundreds of thousands of men, marched across the centerline of the Volunteer State in the early 1860s, setting up bulwarks and camps, conquering strategic locations and suffering crippling losses—until almost the bitter end.

    Situated in the heartland of the United States and at the crossroads of civilization in North America, Tennessee was an epicenter and busy intersection of opposing forces during the conflict, with only the great state of Virginia taking the questionable lead in the number of individual battles fought throughout. A strategic prize that both sides valued because of its major rivers, abundant resources and crisscrossing rail lines and turnpikes, Middle Tennessee became a superhighway of marching troops and supplies for the entire four years of the war.

    Civil War sites in Middle Tennessee

    Artifacts of warfare are still buried across the region among the soybean, wheat and cornfield landscapes, which were transformed into an angry battle of ideals and property rights. The countryside is infused with the legacy of the War Between the States, and while it’s easy to breeze through the area on Interstate 24 in search of country music or a scenic waterfall, these monuments to the struggles of our ancestors are beautifully appropriate places to pay some respect.

    Civil War sites in Middle Tennessee

    The battles that raged across the flatlands of this area range from skirmishes to all-out war, and Rutherford County was no stranger to bloodshed and spent ammunition; the Battle of Stones River alone resulted in 24,000 casualties, one of the worst of the entire conflict.

    Key Civil War sites in Middle Tennessee

    If you’re wanting to understand more of Murfreesboro’s Civil War history, here are some of the sites of fights that happened more than 2,900 times on the soil of Tennessee throughout the span of a few years.

    Civil War sites in Middle Tennessee

    Battle of Milton / Vaught’s Hill

    A small skirmish that, nevertheless, resulted in the deaths of hundreds, this battle was waged just north of Readyville and east of Murfreesboro. Besides being an attack by the Confederate army that failed to overrun the Union soldiers on Vaught’s Hill, it also solidified the strength of an organized cavalry, with Colonel John T. Wilder’s “Lightning Brigade” being among the defenders that repelled a larger force.

    Civil War battles in Middle Tennessee

    Battle of Hoover’s Gap

    Once again employing Colonel Wilder’s fast-moving brigade with a high degree of effectiveness, General William Rosecrans sent these mounted troops, followed by the regular army, in a big push to control this critical section of the war zone in 1863. Soldiers from both sides of the conflict were spread out from Wartrace to McMinnville and across Rutherford County before converging on areas near Beechgrove, right on Interstate 24 where the road narrows. Spencer Repeating Rifles, a favored firearm for Wilder’s troops, were a fairly new introduction to the Union Army, and had devastating effect.

    map by Hal Jespersen, www.cwmaps.com

    map by Hal Jespersen, www.cwmaps.com

    This battle, and subsequent engagement in Tullahoma, forced the entire Confederate army to retreat to Chattanooga, setting the stage for the Battle of Chickamauga, Battles for Chattanooga, and eventually a clear path for General Sherman’s army to conquer Atlanta and the remainder of the deep South.

    Battle of the Cedars / Third Battle of Murfreesboro

    General John Bell Hood, in a desperate attempt to force the Union’s hand in the Southern Theater and halt Sherman’s march from Atlanta to Savannah, led a series of assaults up and down the Middle Tennessee corridor in late-1864. The Battle of Franklin was the most notorious of these engagements due to massive casualties, but the Third Battle of Murfreesboro, led by General Nathan Bedford Forrest, was a raid intended to reinforce the Franklin-Nashville campaign by cutting off rail service between Nashville and Murfreesboro.

    map by Hal Jespersen, www.cwmaps.com

    map by Hal Jespersen, www.cwmaps.com

    While Forrest had some success in destroying tracks and depots, the stage had inevitably been set for the end of the war, and his efforts were some of the last battles of the Confederates in Tennessee before the war concluded the following year.

    Battle of Stones River

    Mustering more than 76,000 troops on both sides, Union and Confederate armies closed ranks in late-1862 for this battle, viciously fighting for control of Middle Tennessee. The federal army, commanded by General William Rosecrans, was positioned along the banks of the Stones River near Murfreesboro on the eve of the year, awaiting an attack from the Army of Tennessee, commanded by the erratic general, Braxton Bragg.

    Battle of Stones River in Murfreesboro, Tennessee
    Battle of Stones River in Murfreesboro, Tennessee

    What followed was wholesale slaughter—on both sides—that ended in a draw. Bragg later retreated and regrouped in Tullahoma while federal forces claimed victory, despite the staggering number of dead and injured, estimated to be more than 25,000 over the course of three days.

    Battle of Stones River in Middle Tennessee

    Tullahoma Campaign

    When General Braxton Bragg made his headquarters in Tullahoma following a retreat from Rutherford County, he was actively fighting with his subordinate commanders; Nathan Bedford Forrest, a brigadier general under his command, in particular, had threatened to kill him. While the rain poured down, turning the area into a sludge pool, Rosencrans gathered his forces in Murfreesboro in preparation for an assault down the sharply-terraced and well-defended spline of Middle Tennessee.

    In late June 1863 when the machinery of war started rumbling up again, nearly 100,000 men on both sides were stationed at various points across Columbia, Shelbyville, Tullahoma, Manchester and McMinnville. The Duck River Line, formed by the Confederates, couldn’t hold as the Union side made a series of feints and smashed through critical choke points, such as Hoover’s Gap and Liberty Gap, both times heavily armed with the Spencer rifle, which proved absolutely deadly against regimental charges. The Confederate Army of Tennessee—at that point diminished by infighting and miscommunications between commanders yet still lethal—attempted to set up a command in Decherd before retiring across the Tennessee River to the Chattanooga area, setting the stage for the next phase of the conflict.

    Battle of Stones River in Middle Tennessee

    This is just a sampler of the numerous battles that took place on Tennessee soil, and if you’re interested in reading further, I recommend starting your education with this three-volume set by late historian Shelby Foote.

    If you’re planning to visit Middle Tennessee soon, here are a few sites that will start your deep-dive into the Civil War history of the region:

    • Stones River National Battlefield
    • Fortress Rosecrans
    • McFadden Farm
    • General Bragg Headquarters Monument
    • Evergreen Cemetery
    • Hazen Brigade Monument
    • Artillery Monument
    • Rutherford County’s Historic Cemeteries
    • Sam Davis Home & Plantation
    • Oaklands Mansion
    • Maplewood Cemetery
    • Bell Buckle

    Sam Davis Home in Murfreesboro, Tennessee


     

    Middle Tennessee's Civil War History
    Middle Tennessee's Civil War History



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  • Eating, Shopping + Civil War History

    Eating, Shopping + Civil War History


    One of the best things about living in Tennessee is the number of day trips available to us on any given week. We live just an hour south of Nashville, which affords us regular outings like a quick trip to the Smokies, an afternoon of waterfall hopping or a day trip to Franklin.

    How to spend one day in Franklin, Tennessee

    Franklin factored into so many things I did as a kid: It’s where we played the bulk of my major soccer and tennis tournaments. It also boasted what was, at the time, the best mall in Middle Tennessee: Cool Springs Galleria. And many of our class field trips in elementary and middle school were to Franklin’s major Civil War sites like Carnton and Carter House.

    How to spend one day in Franklin, Tennessee: The Factory at Franklin

    As an adult, Williamson County is one of my favorite places to spend an afternoon, as well as take visiting friends. And while it’s a great option for a weekend getaway, it’s also an easy day trip from Nashville if you’re already in the area and want to see a different side of Tennessee. So if you’re considering a drive, here’s how I would spend a day in Franklin.

    How to spend one day in Franklin, Tennessee: Natchez Trace Parkway Bridge in Franklin, Tennessee

    Take a stroll down Main Street

    The best place to start any day trip to Franklin is in its cultural and geographic center: Main Street. The city has two free parking garages on 2nd Avenue South and 4th Avenue, and there’s free street parking on Main Street and all along its arteries.

    How to spend one day in Franklin, Tennessee: take a walking tour of Main Street

    Once you’re parked for the morning, the Franklin Visitor Center is always a necessary stop to pick up themed guides—Franklin has a trail for everything: sweets, murals, coffee—as well as shop the merch and use the public bathroom.

    How to spend one day in Franklin, Tennessee

    From there, you can explore downtown Franklin by foot. The city was founded in 1799, but the Downtown Franklin Association didn’t come along until 1984, spearheading the revitalization of the city’s historic downtown core, driving economic development and bringing in businesses by the dozens.

    How to spend one day in Franklin, Tennessee: Shopping on Main Street

    You could easily spend a weekend in Franklin perusing the shops—White’s Mercantile, DeAnn Art Gallery and Rooted are a few of my personal favorites—and dining your way around downtown from Red Pony to Cork & Cow or Grays on Main, which has one of the most photographed signs on Main Street.

    How to spend one day in Franklin, Tennessee: Shopping on Main Street

    On the other side of the street sits one of Franklin’s most iconic landmarks downtown, which has survived the test of time: the Franklin Theatre, Main Street’s beating heart since it was built in 1937. A massive renovation in 2007 shut the facility down for three years, but today, it hosts a variety of movies, live music, comedy, musicals and more.

    Get Out of Nashville: A Tennessee Day Trip to Franklin
    Get Out of Nashville: A Tennessee Day Trip to Franklin

    Before you leave downtown, be sure and pay a visit to the March to Freedom statue. Installed a few years back, the statues and other markers in Public Square comprising the Fuller Story serve to tell a broader narrative about the area’s Civil War history that include the U.S. Colored Troops, nearly 24,000 of whom served in Tennessee and were pivotal to the war efforts.

    How to spend one day in Franklin, Tennessee: The Fuller Story on Main Street

    If you prefer a guided tour to self-learning, Franklin Walking Tours offers a handful of history-focused itineraries like Franklin Charm, Franklin’s Fierce Females, and Grim and Ghostly for those who love a spooky outing.

    How to spend one day in Franklin, Tennessee: take a walking tour of Main Street

    Detour to the Factory

    From downtown, it’s less than five minutes by car—or exactly mile on foot—to the Factory at Franklin, an old 1929 manufacturing warehouse that once was the headquarters for stove and bedding companies. In recent years, it’s morphed into the perfect example of a third place, a mixed-use mashup of dining, retail, office spaces and entertainment.

    How to spend one day in Franklin, Tennessee: the Factory at Franklin

    The brick-and-steel facility, which is ever-evolving, now houses dozens of bars and restaurants, too—including etch, Saffire, Two Hands, Mojo’s Tacos, Honest Coffee Roasters and Otaku Ramen—and is the home of Studio Tenn and special events like the Red Wheel singer-songwriter series.

    How to spend one day in Franklin, Tennessee: the Factory at Franklin

    It also has several kid-friendly activities, like a make-your-own pottery studio and a carousel, as well as a lively Saturday farmers market that’s one of the largest in Tennessee, boasting roughly 100 vendors selling produce, meats, cheese, herbs, flowers and crafts.

    How to spend one day in Franklin, Tennessee: the Factory at Franklin

    Explore the Civil War history in Franklin

    No day trip to Franklin is complete without a history lesson: Now that you’ve seen the city’s present-day boom, it’s important to understand its past and how we got here. Franklin is home to one of Tennessee’s most-visited Civil War battlefields, plus personal homes like the Lotz House that played their own role in the wartime efforts. The Battle of Franklin in 1864 was one of the bloodiest of the Civil War, with 30,000 Confederates arriving to the outskirts of Franklin on the morning of Nov. 30.

    Get Out of Nashville: A Tennessee Day Trip to Franklin

    The Lotz House, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, sits at what’s often called “ground zero” of the Battle of Franklin. Standing inside will give you a front-row feel as to how the family of German immigrants endured being directly in the line of fire—they hid across the street in the Carter House—and how they managed to rebuild their home in the aftermath. Visits are only offered through guided tours or as part of one of the local walking tours, and photography isn’t allowed inside.

    Civil War History in Franklin, Tennessee

    Across the street, the Carter House is an eponymous memorial to the family and the many heroes that emerged from the battle. During the war, the brick edifice was used as the federal command post while the Carter family took refuge in the cellar; visible evidence still lingers, including 1,000 bullet holes errantly scattered about, making it the most bullet-riddled building still standing from the Civil War.

    Get Out of Nashville: A Tennessee Day Trip to Franklin

    The next stop on your Civil War tour of Franklin is Carnton, a former plantation built in 1826 by the McGavock family. By the Civil War, the plantation enslaved 44 people who worked the 700 acres; today, the property spans more than 1,400 acres. The Confederate Army of Tennessee charged the Federal lines at Franklin in what became one of the war’s bloodiest battles, larger even than Pickett’s Charge at Gettysburg. In less than five hours beneath the veil of darkness, 9,500 soldiers were killed, wounded, captured or went missing. Nearly 7,000 of those were Confederate soldiers.

    Get Out of Nashville: A Tennessee Day Trip to Franklin

    Carnton quickly became the area’s largest field hospital, brimming with wounded and dying soldiers, many buried at what was then the McGavock family cemetery. Every November 30, the Battle of Franklin Trust hosts the Annual Illumination honors the 10,000 killed in the battle with a luminary for each, plus a reading of all the names.

    The house remained in the McGavock family’s possession until 1911, when it was sold. In 1977, the house and ten acres were donated to the Carnton Association, and over the years it’s seen plenty of renovation and is now on the National Register of Historic Places.

    Explore Civil War History in Franklin, Tennessee

    Also part of Franklin’s Civil War story is Rippa Villa, which was built in 1855 just south in Spring Hill, and once considered one of the most prominent farms in Middle Tennessee. In 1864, the Greek Revival-style home was drawn into the Battle of Spring Hill, which came a day before the Battle of Franklin, as the strategic planning headquarters for Confederate generals. The Tennessee Campaign ticket gets you into the trio of Civil War sites—Carter House, Carnton and Rippa Villa—at a discounted rate.

    What to know about visiting Franklin

    Trying to decide the best time to visit Franklin is like choosing between bourbon and gin: an impossible task. Any month of the year will give you plenty to do, but I’m partial to the shoulder periods of August and May when crowds are low. If you love autumn, there’s no better place to soak up fall in Tennessee than in Franklin, and October and November, while busy, are undoubtedly lovely times to visit Franklin.

    Get Out of Nashville: A Tennessee Day Trip to Franklin

    Then again, if you’re a Christmas fan, all of downtown Franklin transforms into a holiday wonderland from late-November through the new year.

    Dickens of a Christmas in Franklin, Tennessee

    Want to visit Franklin during a festival?

    Here are a few of the city’s biggest annual events:

    Pilgrimage Music Festival in Franklin

    For even more Franklin travel tips, start here:

     




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