برچسب: Coast

There’s nothing like Sweden in the summer. Light hangs in the air for hours, boats nose through island-studded bays, and cafés spill onto sidewalks as Swedes take advantage of the fleeting warm weather. 

With so much of the year spent in the cold and dark, the never-ending light that summer brings does not go to waste. Whether it’s on the many islands that dot the country’s coast, at their rustic cabins in the woods, or lounging in the city parks, Swedes flock outdoors.

I’ve been to Sweden many times (including spending an entire summer in Stockholm) but have always focused on the southern part of the country. However, with a desire to see something different this visit, I decided to explore the north, starting at the top in Luleå and working my day down. 

If you want to get off the beaten path in Sweden, this itinerary gets you out of the main tourist hubs and highlights the less-touristy side of the country. Here’s my suggested 10-day itinerary:

Day 1 & 2: Luleå

Luleå is home to just 50,000 people and is the last “big” city in the north before you get into Lapland (the northernmost region of the country and home to the indigenous Sami). The city doesn’t take long to see but the surrounding area is what most visitors come for. It’s known for the Gammelstad Church Town as well as its diverse and expansive landscape, ranging from dense forests and tranquil lakes to an archipelago that has over 1,300 islands!

Here’s my suggested things to see and do in Luleå:

The Archipelago – Luleå’s archipelago is a hotspot during the summer. Lots of people come from the south to stay here and you can lounge on beaches, go sea kayaking, boating, and hiking and area locals spend many weekends here to take advantage of the nice weather. The most popular islands are Kluntarna, Brändöskär, Junkön, and Småskär.

Gammelstad Church Town – Gammelstad Church Town has over 400 red wooden cottages surrounding 15th-century church. It was originally built as overnight lodging for parishioners who traveled long distances and offers a glimpse into Sweden’s rural past. You can wander through narrow lanes with well-preserved cottages, see the medieval stone church, and learn about the traditions of church towns.

Gammelstadsviken – Gammelstadsviken is a nature reserve with a large freshwater lake and vast marshlands and one of the best birdwatching spots in Sweden as over 80 different species live here. There’s lots of trails to choose from and it’s not too far from Lulea.

Norrbotten Museum – This museum showcases the region’s culture and history. It’s a small, free museum with displays from Sami culture to industrial heritage that gives you a well-rounded picture of northern Sweden.

Hike – Summer is the perfect season for hiking in and around Luleå. The area has numerous trails that are ideal for easy-going day hikes, and Visit Luleå provides an excellent hiking guide to help you choose a route. A few suggested hikes are Hertsöleden (easy, 8km), Fäbodaleden (intermediate, 10km), and Vitån (challenging, 12km).

The Ice Track – In winter, a six-kilometer ice track is made around the city center. You can skate or kicksled around it. The track is free to use and is carefully maintained throughout the winter. Kicksleds are free to borrow as well.

Where to Stay in Luleå – Clarion Hotel Sense is an affordable hotel right in the center of town. The rooms are comfy, there’s lots of space, and the breakfast buffet has everything you could ever want. There’s even a gym too.

If you’re looking for a good place to eat, the harbor has a number of nice restaurants. I particularly enjoyed Bistron.

Day 3 & 4: Umeå

Head south four hours to Umeå. Founded in 1622 by Swedish King Gustav II Adolf, Umeå is the cultural capital of northern Sweden. It is now a city of 100,000 people known for its huge university (almost a third of the city’s population are students). With so many students here, the city has a young, vibrant feel and there’s lots of affordable restaurants and bars. (And, like everywhere on the coast, there’s easy access to nature.)

Here are my suggested things to see and do in Umeå:

Västerbottens Museum – Here you can explore the cultural and natural history of the Västerbotten region, from local traditions to its maritime heritage. There are documents, textiles, and over 8 million photographs here. The museum also features an open-air section with historic buildings from across the country.

Guitars the Museum – Guitars houses one of the world’s largest private collections of guitars and rock memorabilia, with an emphasis on the 1950s and 60s. Even if you don’t know a lot about guitars (I certainly don’t), it’s still a cool place to visit as you’ll learn a ton about the rock and roll scene. Guided tours are available, which I highly recommend as you’ll get much more out of the experience.

Kulturväven –Kulturväven is Umeå’s cultural hub, hosting everything from concerts and performances to art exhibitions and community events. Inside, you’ll find a library, cinema, and event spaces. Check the website to see what’s on during your visit as there is always tons happening.

Umedalens Skulpturpark – This is a vast outdoor art park featuring sculptures by renowned Swedish and international artists. The works are set against a serene backdrop of meadows, forests, and open landscapes. It’s free to visit.

Hike – From short woodland walks to longer routes along rivers and hills, there’s lots of hikes around the area. Popular hikes include sections of Isälvsleden, a 60-kilometer trail that follows an old glacier path (you can do it in sections); Tavelsjöleden, which boasts lots of caves and mountaintops; and Holmörundan, a 13-kilometer hike on the near island Holmön. To get these trails though, you’ll need to rent a car.

Strömbäck Kont – This nature reserve just south of Umeå is easily accessible by (infrequent) buses if you don’t have a car. The reserve blends smooth rock outcrops, sandy coves, and quiet pine forests, offering a mix of trails that range from rugged to stroller-friendly. There’s lots of bays around, you can go swimming, and, depending on the time of year, gorge on wild blueberries.

Strandpromenaden – Strandpromenaden is a relaxing riverside walkway perfect for a stroll, complete with benches and cafés along the way. The path connects several parts of Umeå, making it a pleasant way to get around the city on foot. I came here at sunset and it was especially pretty, with golden light reflecting off the river.

Where to Stay – Hotell Björken is right next to the university and is just a five-minute drive to the central station. The rooms are stylish, modern, and well-lit and the hotel won’t break the bank either.

For places to eat, check out Bodegan and Eljest. Facit Bar is a great spot for inventive drinks.

Day 5: Örnsköldsvik

Head south to Örnsköldsvik, the gateway to the High Coast. Called “Ö-vik” by locals, Örnsköldsvik is a coastal town known for its mix of outdoor adventure and modern industry, with hiking, kayaking, and skiing all within easy reach. There’s not a lot to do here so I recommend just spending one night in the town.

Here’s some suggested things to see and do during your visit:

High Coast Trail – This 130-kilometer trail takes 5–7 days to complete but covers the entire High Coast, making it an epic and incredibly scenic adventure over mountains, rugged coastlines, and forests. If you want a shorter hike, it’s possible to just hike sections of it. There’s lots of options.

Kayaking & Swimming – The waters here are calm and there’s lots to see around the archipelago. A two-hour rental is 300 SEK, while tandem kayaks cost 400 SEK. If you prefer to swim, Gullviks havsbad is the best beach in the area. It’s a sandy beach with volleyball nets, food nearby, and a BBQ area.

Where to Stay – If you’re staying in town, you can stay at Elite Plaza Hotel, which is a beautiful hotel on the harbor with a huge and delicious breakfast. If you want to stay out of town, FriluftsByn is an expansive campsite with a great restaurant and bar and a hot spot for campers and roadtrippers.

Day 6: Skuleskogen National Park

Skuleskogen National Park, set along Sweden’s High Coast, is a sprawling wilderness where ancient forests meet the rugged Baltic shoreline. Visiting here was easily the highlight of my recent trip. Located just thirty minutes south of Örnsköldsvik, this park spans over 7,400 acres and has birch and pine forests, marshes, coastal beaches, granite mountains, and awesome views of the Baltic.

The highlight of the park is Slåttdalsskrevan, a massive rock crevice that cuts through the bedrock. It’s around 200 meters long and 30 meters deep. For safety reasons, you can’t walk through it anymore but, if you come via the north side, you get a better view and can walk in a little bit. (The south entrance is completely closed off.)

You could easily spend a few days here if you like to hike and camp, but at a minimum you’ll want one full day. To help you make the most of your visit, here are a few tips and considerations:

1. There are three entrances: South, North, and West, with the South gate being the busiest. Get there early if you’re driving as the parking lot is very small. To get to the park, you will definitely need a car. There are no other options.
2. The South gate trail to Slåttdalsskrevan is the shortest, however, the West gate trail provides the best diversity of landscapes (and fewest crowds).
3. If you want a relaxing hike, the coastal trail is not strenuous and has serene pebble beaches, rocky headlands, and quiet pine forests. It sees the fewest hikers too.
4. Hiking north to south (or vice versa) takes about five hours. Doing the South Gate to the crevice and back takes around three hours. There and back on the West trail is about four hours. I’m pretty fit and hike a bit fast so take that into consideration but I found the trails a lot easier than the suggested times (I stopped a lot for photos and video content).
5. Bring your own food and water as there are no facilities once you’re inside. Double check the weather too so you can dress appropriately.
6. If you’re visiting in summer, bring bug spray as I found there to be loads of mosquitoes.

Day 7 & 8: Sundsvall

Home to just under 60,000 people, Sundsvall is just a 90-minute drive south of Skuleskogen National Park. After being devastated by fire in 1888, the city was rebuilt almost entirely in stone, earning its elegant nickname Stenstaden (“the Stone City”). Perched between forested hills and the Gulf of Bothnia (the northern part of the Baltic Sea), the city was historically a hub of the timber and paper industries. Today, it’s best known for its easy access to outdoor activities like hiking, skiing, and exploring the nearby High Coast.

Some things to see and do during your visit include:

Kulturmagasinet (The Culture Warehouse) – This cultural center is housed in old harbor warehouses that have been converted into a museum, library, and art space. Inside, visitors can explore exhibitions on Sundsvall’s history and local art, as well as take in temporary exhibitions and events. Be sure to check the website for the latest events. 

Norra Berget (The Northern Mountain) – This is an open-air museum and park located on a hill overlooking the city. It features 40 historic buildings from around the region, including wooden houses and farmsteads. There are lots of exhibits that showcase historic life and culture in northern Sweden. It’s a really good spot to bring kids.

Himlabadet Water Park – This family-friendly water park has indoor pools, saunas, and multiple water slides. There’s a small toddler area, a climbing wall that curves out over the pool, and even a surfing simulator that lets you try your hand at surfing real waves.

Sidsjön Lake – Just a 10-minute drive from the city center, Sidsjön is a peaceful lake surrounded by walking and cycling trails. In summer, you can swim, fish, and paddle here, making it the perfect place to lounge away an afternoon (if you’re visiting in winter, you can skate or cross-country ski here).

Alnön Island – Connected to Sundsvall by a bridge, Alnön is known for its sandy beaches and volcanic geology. The island is perfect for a day trip, offering swimming, small villages to explore, and scenic drives.

Where to Stay – Lilla Hotellet is an affordable locally-owned three-star hotel. It’s quiet, small, and has a cozy breakfast nook where you can fill up before you head out to explore.

Day 8 & 9: Uppsala

Uppsala, Sweden’s fourth-largest city, is just under four hours south of Sundsvall by car. It’s a lively, energetic city home to almost 250,000 people and is known for its big student population (Uppsala University is here, a prestigious university founded in the 15^th century). Owing to its big student population (and larger population in general), there’s much more to see and do here beyond just enjoying nature and there’s a lot of affordable restaurants and bars.

Here are some of my favorite things to do:

Uppsala Cathedral (Domkyrkan) – Scandinavia’s largest church, this impressive Gothic structure dates back to the 13th century. It’s the final resting place of Swedish kings, scientists, and archbishops, with soaring spires that dominate the city’s skyline. Inside, visitors can explore ornate chapels, admire medieval frescoes, and see the tombs of King Gustav Vasa and Carl Linnaeus (a famous scientist known as “the father of modern taxonomy”).

Uppsala University & Gustavianum – Founded in 1477, this is Sweden’s oldest university. With over 50,000 students, it’s a massive institution with lots to see and do in its own right. The Gustavianum Museum, for example, showcases artifacts and Viking treasures. If you’re on a budget, this area of town is where you’re going to want to eat as all the cheapest bars and restaurants are here.

Uppsala Castle (Uppsala Slott) – A Renaissance-era castle overlooking the city, Uppsala Castle was once the site of royal coronations and political intrigue. The castle was actually built after a peasant uprising, as King Vasa I decided more fortifications were needed to prevent future uprisings. Today, it’s home to museums and exhibitions where you can explore the original remains of the first castle built here, learn about the castle’s history, and even admire historic art.

Botanical Garden & Linnaeus Garden – Dating back to the 18th century, this is the largest botanical garden of its kind in Sweden. The Linnaeus Garden, a reconstruction of famed botanist Carl Linnaeus’s own 18th-century teaching garden, offers insight into how he classified species during his time as a botanist. In spring and summer, these gardens are particularly lively and colorful, making for a calming place to relax with a book or take a stroll when the sun is shining.

Gamla Uppsala (Old Uppsala) – Just north of the city, this ancient site features massive Viking burial mounds, a museum, and a church that was once a pagan religious center. This was a key political and spiritual site during the Viking Age, with ties to Norse mythology and early Swedish kings. Visitors can climb the burial mounds for sweeping views of the landscape. If you want to dive deeper into Viking-era history, the small Gamla Uppsala Museum is a short but worthwhile stop.

Carolina Rediviva Library – The university’s main library, housing treasures like the Codex Argenteus (“Silver Bible”). Built in the 19th century, it is one of the largest research libraries in Scandinavia, with over five million volumes. Its exhibitions display rare manuscripts, maps, and early printed books. For anyone interested in history, literature, or rare artifacts, this library is a must-see (if you’re not a history buff, though, you can probably skip it).

Where to Stay – If you’re backpacking, Uppsala City Hostel is the best hostel in the city. While the bunks are basic, it’s in a great location so you can easily get around. If you prefer a hotel, Botanika Uppsala is located right next to the botanical garden, which is the oldest in the country.

This trip is best done by car, but it could also be done by train and bus if you don’t want to rent a car. And, depending how much you want to hike, you can easily add in more days (there are a ton of multi-day hikes here, after all). Plus, there’s plenty of islands in the archipelago to stop at, so you could really turn this itinerary into a multi-week trip if you wanted. It’s really up to you!

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