برچسب: Living

What Living in Romania is Really Like

Hey everyone! My Living Abroad series, after a long hiatus, is back. Today, I’m chatting with Jennifer, an American teacher and blogger living in Romania.

Jennifer, a serial expat, has spent the past 11 years living and working on four continents, but she now calls Bucharest home. With its gorgeous countryside, low cost of living, and hearty food, she makes Romania seem like a pretty dreamy place to live. I hope you enjoy reading about her life there!

Jennifer’s background:

My name is Jennifer Stevens and I’m originally from a small town near Tampa, Florida. I’ve been an expat for the last 11 years, living in South Korea, Colombia, China, and now Romania. My husband Luke and I both work at the American International School of Bucharest and live in the center of town with our Shanghai street dog, Charlie.

On moving to Romania: Admittedly, I didn’t know much about Romania when my husband and I were offered teaching positions here. But we were keen to explore Europe and knew Eastern Europe would be a more affordable way to do this. Plus, when we Googled Romania, pictures of snow-capped mountains and fairytale castles filled the computer screen!

On making friends with other expats in Romania: To be honest, most of my friends are fellow teachers from school. Romania doesn’t have the same expat scene as other places I’ve lived like in Shanghai, but there is a chapter of InterNations here in Bucharest, and you can find some gatherings on Meetup.com. To make local friends, I’ve found success by talking to fellow dog owners at the parks, and taking fitness classes at gyms (that is, when they were still open).

On living in Romania during Covid-19: It’s had its ups and downs. We’ve been lucky to work at a school that has prioritized the health of its teachers and students, but teaching online has been extremely difficult. It’s now been a full year of Zoom instruction and we’re all completely burned out. Currently, Europe is in its third wave, and the new variants have hit Romania pretty hard. This means strict curfews and lockdowns in some areas (where you have to have a declaration form to leave the house). It also means that schools have to remain closed until cases get down to 6/1,000. Right now, I believe numbers are closer to 9/1,000 where my school is located.

It’s been hard not being able to go home, but Luke and I have a lot of gratitude for our situation. Romania is a beautiful country with plenty of cabin escapes in nearby mountain ranges, and the WIFI is strong. So, while we feel trapped and homesick at times, nature and the ability to quickly connect is a huge comfort.

On Romanian food: Typical Romanian food is heavy and pork-forward. I love the soups here, especially the “sour” variety, which uses fermented barley or wheat bran (borș) to get its flavor. I also love the roasted eggplant dip (salata de vinete), and the summer produce is second-to-none!

A typical Romanian meal is especially perfect on a cold winter day: pork-stuffed cabbage rolls (sarmale), polenta (mămăligă) topped with a dollop of sour cream, some type of sour soup (ciorbă), possibly a side of grilled sausage (mici), and fried cheese doughnuts (papanasi) served with blueberry jam and sweet sour cream.

On learning Romanian: The Romanian language is beautiful, and apparently the closest living language to Vulgar Latin. Since I can speak Spanish, I thought learning Romanian would be easy, but it’s been pretty challenging. I found that when I took lessons, I was mixing up words I knew from Spanish and French.

Most people in Bucharest can speak English, so I typically greet strangers in Romanian (“Buna ziua”), then ask them if they speak English (“Vorbiți Engleza?”). More often than not, the conversation switches to English—which is great for communicating, but bad for learning the language.

On the cost of living: For the most part, Romania is a very inexpensive place to live—especially if you’re coming from the States. Depending on which city you live in and what neighborhood, expats can expect to pay less than $1,000 USD for a 2-bedroom apartment. At least in Bucharest, landlords typically advertise apartments for much more than they’re worth (for example, our 3-bdrm place in downtown Bucharest was advertised for $1,300 and we got it for $1,000). Keep in mind, you can find places much cheaper (especially in an older Communist building or outside the city), or more expensive (in a new expat complex).

For everyday items like produce, it really depends on what you’re buying. Locally grown products are very affordable, and depending on the season, you can get great deals on some of the best tasting fruits and vegetables out there. In July, for example, you can go to Obor market (one of the biggest farmers’ markets in the city) and take home a kilo of blackberries for less than $5. Imported products can be expensive, and I wouldn’t recommend ordering from websites outside the EU, as import taxes can be incredibly steep.

On local fashion: In Bucharest [Romania’s capital], the color black reigns supreme. I’ve actually had trouble finding clothes to my taste, and shoes in particular are tough if your feet run on the larger side (US 9 and above for women). The handmade traditional blouses are absolutely gorgeous though—typically white cotton with billowy sleeves, embroidered in a variety of colors and patterns.

On the medical system: The worst part of living in Romania is the medical system. Romania consistently ranks worst in the EU, according to the Euro Health Consumer Index, which looks at variables like accessibility, treatment outcomes, range of services, care, and pharmaceuticals. I’ve heard of many instances of bribery, and have personally experienced a misdiagnosis and the inability to find my thyroid replacement medicine (the country ran out for many months and I had to find a way to get it from the States).

READ NEXT: How to Make Friends When You Move to a New City

On missing home: I always miss my family most—especially this last year when flying home wasn’t an option. Otherwise, I miss the ease of everyday things, like being able to fully communicate at the doctor’s office, or being able to find the correct products you need to clean your house. I also miss nicely paved streets and familiar road rules.

On the best part about living in Romania: It’s hard to choose just one thing, so I’ll say my top three: the gorgeous countryside, the proximity to other countries in Europe, and the low cost of living.

On living in Romania long-term: Next school year will be our last. Five years will have been the perfect amount of time to properly explore the country and to develop a true appreciation for the people and the culture. But because of my recent cancer journey, our next post will have to be somewhere with a more dependable medical system.

Mulțumesc, Jennifer!

P.S. What Living as an Expat in France is Really Like and What Living as an Expat in Berlin Is Really Like.

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23/04/2025
What Living in Abu Dhabi as an Expat is Really Like

Today, the Living Abroad series takes us to the United Arab Emirates where we meet Jay, a Canadian expat who lives in Abu Dhabi with her husband, Joe, and their two children. Here, we talk about the challenges of learning Arabic, popular snack foods (ever hear of luqaimat?), and how living in Abu Dhabi has challenged her initial assumptions about the Middle East.

Jay’s background: We moved to Abu Dhabi in August of 2016. from Stavanger, Norway. Prior to that, we had been in Norway and Gabon. These days, I’m a full-time mom. But back in the day, I was a teacher. I majored in English and taught middle school. With my youngest now entering school, I’m working on my next steps and hoping to pursue some creative ambitions.

After living in Norway, Abu Dhabi was a relatively easy transition. The service industry thrives here and the population is 90% expatriates. Culturally, it has been really interesting experiencing the Middle East and it has challenged and changed many of my preconceived notions.

On the cost of living: The UAE is more expensive than the US in most regards. This is the place to make money (there’s no income tax) but it’s also the place to spend money.

On learning Arabic: I find Arabic incredibly difficult. My son learns it in school and remote learning has really put me to the test. Most everyone speaks English here so there is rarely a time where we are not understood but I’ve picked up a few common Arabic phrases – khallas [“enough”], inshallah [“God willing”], as-salamu alaykum [“peace be with you”], and alhamdulillah [“praise be to God”].

On Emirati food: Because the vast majority of residents are expatriates and most of the restaurants are international, Emirati food is not particularly common. The origins of many Middle Eastern dishes are often up for great debate but biryani (a rice dish), hummus, and kebabs are common and if you’re looking for something interesting, you can track down a camel burger. Sweet shops and coffee places are abundant and often full of locals at all hours of the day. I like the luqaimat, a deep-fried ball of dough drizzled with date syrup.

On smoking hookah: It’s actually called shisha here! I think we did once when we had a friend visiting but it’s not something we seek out. There are many shisha bars and cafes though and it’s certainly easy to find.

On the local fashion: Local women in Abu Dhabi usually wear an abaya, often black but not always, with a shayla, a thin headscarf. Fancy handbags and shoes are the norm. Men wear a long white robe called a kandora often with a white ghotra, a scarf-like fabric, on the head.

In Abu Dhabi, I generally dress more conservatively than I would at home. I try to keep my shoulders and knees covered when I’m out in the city. As you spend time here you realize where it’s more accepted to dress down (international hotels, certain housing complexes) and where it’s better to be more conservative (the post office, government buildings, schools). That said, things have changed a lot in the five years I’ve been here. I see women dress in all sorts of manners and it’s more accepted than it was when we first arrived.

On raising kids in Abu Dhabi: It is interesting being a mom in Abu Dhabi because we live amongst so many different cultures. My children’s school has over 60 nationalities represented so we see a wide variety of families and values. The biggest contrast to other places we’ve lived is the amount of help and staff people employ here. We are one of the few families I know that do not employ a full-time nanny. When I take my kids to the playground in our community, I’m often the only mom amongst the nannies. Also, kids stay out very late here! It’s not uncommon to see small children strolling the mall or in a restaurant at 10 pm.

On safety: Rules are strict in Abu Dhabi; it is such a safe place. We joke that you can leave your wallet on a table and come back the next day and it would still be sitting there. Street harassment is not a concern. I have never been harassed nor really felt unsafe (not including driving) in my five years here.

On living in Abu Dhabi during Covid-19: It has been interesting and occasionally frustrating. Rules come hard and fast and you don’t dare break them or criticize them. Abu Dhabi itself has become a bubble even within the UAE. Other emirates, including Dubai, have taken a different approach and we now have a permanent border between Abu Dhabi and the rest of the country where you must show a recent PCR to cross back into the capital. The UAE had the second-fastest vaccine rollout in the world – I was fully vaccinated by the end of February – and has relied heavily on extensive testing. I’ve been tested nearly 15 times just because it’s necessary to enter buildings or return to Abu Dhabi. Certainly, there are times where rules don’t make sense or I wished restrictions would lessen slightly but it has also felt very safe.

On missing home: We’ve been gone for over 11 years now so there is not much, materialistically speaking, that we miss anymore. But certainly, in light of the pandemic, we miss our family. We haven’t been home in two years and it’s hard not knowing when we’ll be able to visit. I also miss fresh air. The heat, humidity, and the sand of the desert just don’t bring the crisp, clean air.

On the best part about living in Abu Dhabi: I love the call to prayer. I love that I can get absolutely anything delivered. I love valet parking everywhere and beautiful hotels and restaurants.

On the worst part: It can be hard to reconcile that many of the things I love about living here come at a cost in terms of the service and manual labor. People are not treated equally here. Also, the summer heat – it literally feels like living in an oven.

On living in Abu Dhabi long-term: We’ve been in Abu Dhabi for five years and feel fairly settled and comfortable. I’d be okay staying for another year or two but my husband is starting to get itchy feet! Covid has definitely changed the game though so it seems like everything from borders to opportunities are all a lot more difficult.

Thanks, Jay! Your photos are gorgeous.

P.S. The full Living Abroad series and What Living as an Expat in France is Really Like.

(Family photos courtesy of Luma Photography.)

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22/04/2025
What Living as an Expat in Versailles, France, is Really Like

Hey everyone! Welcome back to Living Abroad, a series that shows you what expat life is like in cities around the world. Our latest interview features pastry chef Molly, who moved from Dallas to Paris to attend pastry school at the Cordon Bleu. She now lives in Versailles, France, with François, her French partner and their adorable dog, Elliot.

Here’s a peek into her dreamy life in France…

Molly’s background:

Hi! My name is Molly Wilkinson. I’m originally from Dallas, Texas and I teach pastry classes in Versailles! I live in an 18th-century apartment with François, my French partner, and Eliott, our dog.

I moved to attend pastry school at Le Cordon Bleu and really fell in love with the city, particularly the culture around food and the amazing ingredients. I ended up going back to Texas once my visa expired, then I returned and worked at several pâtisseries — and even a château — to gain experience.

On her old-world apartment: Our apartment is about five minutes walk from the Versailles Château in the Saint Louis neighborhood. The building was built in the 18th century and is full of charm. Our apartment is full of light, still has the original parquet floors and huge mirrors on the mantles. I use one of the rooms for teaching my pastry classes. I’ve planted red geraniums in the flower boxes and filled the cabinets with pastry tools and antique cake stands. In the middle of the room is a big antique French farm table where I create.

On moving to Versailles: Versailles is full of history and charm. There is so much more to the city than just the Château. It’s quite expansive and doesn’t have the small windy medieval streets like some of the towns nearby. It’s quiet, traditional, and has beautiful architecture. It’s situated just 30 minutes from Paris by train, so we have the peacefulness of living outside the big city but also the proximity to easily go in whenever we need to. There are two main neighborhoods in Versailles, the Saint Louis Quarter and the Notre Dame Quarter. Both have impressive churches and markets! There’s also the horse carriage museum to explore and even a local flour mill.

On becoming a pastry chef: I’ve been baking since I was very young, but it was all American treats – like my favorite chocolate chip cookies and brownies. It wasn’t until I came to Paris at the age of 26 that I started to learn the art of French pâtisserie. Going to school for the culinary arts is difficult; you’re on your feet all day, and there’s a certain amount of pressure to get things right the first time. I loved it though. I learned more with each creation and got more confident.

After I graduated, I did an internship at a tiny pastry shop in the 10th arrondissement in Paris where I was the only person besides the two women pastry chefs running the place. I learned so much and went on from there to work at several bakeries in both the US and France. The culinary arts is a field where you are constantly learning, which makes it quite interesting.

I focus on pâtisserie. Within pâtisserie, you have several different specialties, like candy, chocolate, and even ice cream. Separate from patisserie is bread-making (boulangerie), and yeasted pastries (viennoiserie), like croissants. In the US, the word pastry often refers to anything sweet that is French, like eclairs and tarts, but croissants as well, whereas they are actually two entirely different fields.

On learning French: I consider myself intermediate level in French. Learning the language when you live in any foreign country is so important. It opens doors but also allows you to experience more of the culture and feel more like you belong. In terms of tips, I’d say to get a French boyfriend and try to surround yourself with French-speaking people. I also work with a tutor on a regular basis. When I lived in Paris, I took French through the Mairie (city hall). This is a GREAT tip for people living there. It’s very inexpensive and a good way to get into learning asap.

On making friends: Joining different activity groups helps, but I’ve even made friends in the area through Instagram! Eliott is quite the mascot and conversation starter too.

On dating: Dating in France is very different than in the US. Essentially there isn’t dating – either you’re together or not! Yes, the first 1-2 dates are trials to see what you think, then pretty soon thereafter, you’re in a relationship. Also, there isn’t “the discussion” aka the “are we boyfriend and girlfriend?”. I once tried to do this with François, and it was pretty hilarious. He was like, well we are together, we’re happy, and that’s what matters – no need to ask or label.

On the cost of living: I find living in Versailles similar to living in Dallas. I shop a lot at the market for fruits and vegetables and they’re so much cheaper than even buying them in the supermarkets here.

On living in France as an American: It’s been great! But it’s also all about how you approach things. I love living here and try to spread that positivity into all areas of my life and maybe they can sense it? Also, I am familiar with the customs after living here for more than six years and speak the language.

Even visiting though, Americans are very much so welcome! Just great people with a “Bonjour” when going into a shop or restaurant, or starting any conversation. That is the best advice. Add “Madame or Monsieur” and you’ll get a smile for your efforts.

On French fashion: Fashion will vary in France from town to town, and of course the different generations. Fashion in Versailles is a lot different than in Paris. In Versailles, it’s pretty traditional, longer skirts, slacks, nice blouses or dresses, in neutral tones or florals. There’s also a thing with red pants here? Seriously. In Paris, it’s very fashion-forward, trendy, and pretty much anything goes. That’s what makes people-watching such fun!

On living in France during Covid-19: It’s been very quiet. During the confinements, especially the first one, we really just stayed inside, did big shops for food and watched a lot of movies. Thankfully we have a bit more space than the 9m2 (100sqft) apartment I had in Paris! The pandemic also forced me to quickly pivot my business model from in-person pastry classes to online classes, and it’s been incredible. I now reach more people than I ever did before, and folks that live all over the world!

On missing home: Besides my family and friends, I miss tacos the most!

On the best part about living in Versailles: I love how I call it home now. I walk down the streets and see people I know. I have my favorite haunts and feel comfortable here. Also, there’s something pretty special about having the Versailles gardens as the place where I walk my dog.

On the worst part about living in Versailles: The bureaucracy is quite daunting. I like to say that France makes you work for it!

On wanting to living in Versaille long-term: Oui!

Merci, Molly!

(Photos by Molly Krystal Kenney, Joann Pai, and Claire Emmaline.)

P.S. What Living as an Expat in France is Really Like and How to Make Friends in a New City.

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22/04/2025
What Living in Morocco as an Expat is Really Like

For this fall’s Living Abroad series, our next stop is Morocco. Sinclair, an American elementary school teacher, lives in Tangier, Morocco’s third-largest city. Here, Sinclair describes Moroccan nut, date, and avocado smoothies, her experience dating in Morocco, and Tangier’s unlikely love for Birkenstocks…

Sinclair’s background: I moved to Morocco in September 2019 and quickly fell in love with the country. Everyone I met was incredibly kind and welcoming; I felt at home shortly after arriving. I liked it so much that I did not want to leave, even when COVID-19 hit Morocco in 2020 and I had the opportunity to return to the US. Even though the past year and a half have been incredibly challenging and stressful, so much good came out of it through friendships and making strides in my career. Morocco has so much to offer and I have been on an incredible adventure, and through it, I found a place I can see myself thriving in. I feel like I am following my heart and living my life to the fullest.

On the natural beauty: Morocco has inspired my photography due to its seemingly effortless beauty. There is something very special about the light in Morocco that helps make it so photogenic, along with its vibrant colors and charming streets. Everywhere I turn I am struck by tiny moments of art from a sweeping archway of a doorway, rooftop views of the city and the ocean to the street cats lounging among food vendors.

On the cost of living: The cost of living in Morocco is very affordable. Rent varies from city to city, but you can find apartments anywhere from $200-$800 a month. In regards to other expenses, it is easy to find a meal that costs anywhere from $2-6. At fancier restaurants, a dinner would cost around $25. This is partly because almost all of the fresh produce is locally sourced and is super cheap as Morocco has a huge farming industry.

On food: Moroccan food is delicious and full of flavor. Fear not if you don’t like spicy food because Moroccans tend not to either, and their traditional foods are rich and full of umami and sweet flavors. Couscous is the obvious favorite of many, but I am fond of the lamb and prune tajine, which is essentially a slow roast and is eaten with fresh bread. Moroccan smoothie and juice bars are my favorite though. You will not find better fresh-squeezed orange juice anywhere else. I love the Moroccan smoothie with nuts, dates, and avocado which is delicious, filling, and perfect for breakfast.

On fashion: You will find that in big cities like Rabat and Casablanca, women dress more freely and in more American styles. Where I live, in the north, it’s much more conservative; people dress more consistently and more similarly. On the street, I notice women wearing long flowy maxi dresses, blouses, high-waisted pants, chunky sneakers, big sunglasses, and a bold red lip. Some women wear headscarves, but a lot don’t as well. There are a lot of young hipsters that dress more similarly to the French art student vibe with jeans, fun prints, and lots of details. Last but not least Birkenstock! They are the shoe of Tangier and I am here for it. There are certain clothing styles that I do not feel comfortable wearing out in public though, like short shorts or crop tops because I would stand out more than I already do as a white woman.

On being an American in Morocco: A lot of Moroccans love America! When they find out that I am American they are excited and want to talk about it and ask me questions, or share a random connection they have with the US. Many Moroccans are tuned into US affairs from politics to TikTok trends. They are often fascinated that I chose to live abroad and are friendly towards me. Some people I’ve met still have the American Dream of making a life for themselves in the land of opportunity. Others do not care about that but find the American mindset very open and are fascinated and curious about our lifestyle.

On the local languages: Morocco has two official languages: Arabic and Amazigh. The majority of Moroccans speak Darija, which is the Moroccan dialect of Arabic. I am learning Darija and know enough to use it in interactions at the market, with taxi drivers, or to say hi to my neighbors. But it is difficult because it is so different from English and there are many sounds that we do not use that I simply cannot pronounce. Amazigh is spoken by the indigenous population of Morocco and is characterized as an Afro-Asiatic language; it uses an entirely different alphabet. Many Moroccans also speak French; it is often used as the language of business and government.

On street harassment: I experience street harassment pretty regularly. On a given day in Tangier walking around, I might go 30 minutes with 8 different remarks or none at all. It’s really random. The saving grace is that however angry or annoyed it makes me at times, and often uncomfortable, I rarely feel unsafe. I might get an “hola, muy guapa” or “bonjour”, or a lot of stares and I have been followed, but it has rarely ever been scary. Sometimes it seems they want to shoot their shot, others are just overly friendly or curious, and some are gross, but I do not feel in most cases that the men have bad intentions. I do my best to be vigilant and aware, but I chose to ignore it. I also walk around with my guy friends which greatly reduces the attention I get. It is not fun but it is manageable.

On dating: Dating in Morocco is interesting to say the least. Dating is far more complicated in Morocco as there are several laws and customs that prevent the mingling of genders. Relationships and dating definitely exist but they are more hidden. Sex before marriage is not allowed, but that never stopped anyone. There is certainly no PDA and forget vacationing with a significant other because unmarried Moroccan couples are unable to stay at hotels and Airbnbs, with the exception of foreigners. Like everywhere else, the younger generations are changing and I see couples around and I know people who date and are in serious relationships but often do not tell their extended family. I notice some people living a Hannah Montana-esque life, one fairly conservative with their family and one more freely with their friends. The lack of freedom forces people to act certain ways so I understand how it can be challenging to maneuver around.

On meeting someone special: I only dated a little and mostly through friends I knew in my first year in Morocco, until I moved to Tangier and was bored and stuck at home for a little while, so I decided to see what Tinder was like there. I was met with a very positive response but because of Covid had little interest in actually going on dates, until I met my now partner of almost one year! I am grateful I did, he has made my experience in Tangier and in Morocco infinitely better. We have encountered some cultural differences and challenges of course, but nothing we could not handle. It is also frustrating to not be able to live as freely in public as we could elsewhere but that has not stopped our happiness.

On missing home: More than anything, I miss my friends and family. Even though I chose to live abroad, that does not make living away from your loved ones easy. I am thankful for Zoom and texting that have kept many of my relationships alive and close despite the physical distance.

On driving: I also miss driving. Although I have rented a car on a few occasions and driven in Morocco I do not drive on a daily basis, and driving in the city is terrifying. I miss nice empty suburban roads and blasting my music with my windows down while driving.

On alcohol: Alcohol is not illegal in Morroco, but it is taboo. That being said, there are liquor stores and some restaurants sell it, though the variety is limited (I miss craft beer and cider!).

But where they lack in beer, Morocco excels in wine. Morocco’s Middle Atlas region has great soil for wine and they produce some very good wine. Morocco makes a unique grey wine that is made with red grapes but in the style of white wine, which produces a light refreshing alternative to rosé, which is a must-try! It’s nice being able to get a good bottle of wine for $9.

On the worst part of living in Morocco: The lack of freedom. I find it frustrating and kind of surprising how many restrictive laws are in place on women especially in Morocco or various traditions that exist that make it difficult to freely express yourself or live openly. I took for granted my rights as an American but I am grateful for them now. I value the ability to take ownership of my life and that I have the freedom to live it how I please. Although, that is not the case for many people in America to this day, and it is certainly far from the truth in Morocco in some ways.

On the best part of living in Morocco: The people. Connecting with new people who have different stories and life experiences is an eye-opening experience. Morocco is such a beautiful country with beautiful people that mean well and have made my experience so rewarding.

Thank you so much, Sinclair!

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22/04/2025