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  • Best Things to Do in San Marino, Europe’s Oldest Republic

    Best Things to Do in San Marino, Europe’s Oldest Republic


    Not many people have heard about the Republic of San Marino, but believe me, this tiny state of only 61 km2 (23.5 square miles) is truly worth visiting! Being surrounded by Italy on all sides, San Marino is often confused with just another Italian city. Nonetheless, this small country has stubbornly clung to its independence for over 1700 years. San Marino may be small and often disregarded by tourists, but it has quite a few interesting things to see and do, so be sure you make it part of your European itinerary.

    view of Guaita Fortress
    Guaita Fortress seen from above

    A Brief History of San Marino

    The Republic of San Marino claims to have been founded back in 301 A.D., when a stonemason named Marinus fled religious persecution to establish a community on Mount Titano. This makes it the world’s oldest continuous republic and a living testament to ancient republican ideals and democratic self-rule. A legacy that has endured for over 1,700 years!  

    The factors that contributed to it’s long-enduring independence are however multiple. On one hand, the country’s geographic location atop Monte Titano in Italy’s Apennine Mountains made it difficult to conquer. 

    view of Guaita fortress in San Marino
    View of Guaita Fortress in San Marino historic center

    Over the centuries, the republic maintained a policy of neutrality, especially during major conflicts and unification movements, in order to avoid becoming a target. 

    In 1797, Napoleon protected San Marino’s independence and even offered to expand its territory, a gesture rooted in a friendship cultivated by one of its regents. 

    But the one that saved San Marino from being incorporated into the new Italian state was Giuseppe Garibaldi. During the 19th-century Italian unification, Garibaldi and his revolutionaries found refuge here, so in gratitude he helped ensure San Marino’s independence.

    San Marino flag
    San Marino Flag

    Top Things to Do in San Marino

    San Marino is a small place, so you don’t need a lot of time to explore its attractions. However, if you have the time to visit it you’ll discover there are quite a few unique things to visit here.

    Climb the Three Towers

    Definitely the most important attraction in San Marino are the Three Towers – Guaita, Cesta and Montale – which are located at the very top of Monte Titano. The towers are a symbol of San Marino and thus also appear on the country’s flag as well as the Coat of Arms.

    Guaita Tower seen from above

    Guaita Tower

    The oldest of the three towers Is Guaita (or Rocca) which is built directly on the stone of the mountain without any foundations. This tower dates back to the XI century and is among the oldest fortresses in Italy. There are two rings of walls where people were sheltering during sieges.

    Images from inside the Guaita Tower
    Images from inside the Guaita Tower

    You can reach the tower by climbing a very narrow and steep staircase, but the effort is worth it. From the top you’ll get a beautiful view of the entire valley.

    Cesta Tower

    The second tower known as Cesta (or Fratta) sits a little farther away, on another peak of Mount Titan. This is the highest one, rising at 756 meters above sea level. Built at the end of the 11th century, the Second Tower was the seat of the guardhouse and also housed some prison cells.

    Cesta tower in San Marino seen from above
    Cesta Tower seen from above
    Inside Cesta Tower
    Inside Cesta Tower

    Today the tower houses the Museum of Ancient Arms, which includes firearms, bows, crossbows, and armor all dating from various periods between the Middle Ages and the end of the 19th century. 

    Museum of Ancient Arms, one of the best things to do in San Marino
    Museum of Ancient Arms, one of the best things to do in San Marino

    From the top you can look back toward the Guaita and see the third tower as well.

    Montale Tower

    The third tower called Montale is not open to the public because it is difficult to access. However, you can still walk all the way to it. The walk takes about 10 minutes from the second tower along a scenic path on the mountain ridge.

    Montale Tower in San Marino

    This tower dates back to the late 13th century and is the smallest in size. Nonetheless, it played a strategic role in the country’s defense because it sits in the best position for lookout. It also functioned as a prison during the 14th century.

    Walk the Passo delle Steghe (Witches’ Path)

    One of the nicest things to do in San Marino is walk along the Witches’ Path (Passo delle Steghe), which connects the first and the second tower. This shaded paved pass carved in stone on the ridge of Mount Titano has earned its name from a local legend. The story says that the path was a gathering place for witches to performe mysterious rituals around large fires.

    View of the Witches' Path in San Marino
    Passo delle Steghe (Witches’ Path) in San Marino

    This is definitely one of the most photogenic spots in San Marino that offers stunning views of Castello della Cesta and the Adriatic Sea.

    Visit Piazza della Liberta

    Piazza della Liberta is the most popular public square in San Marino. This historic place serves as the center of government and a symbol of the Republic’s independence. Here you’ll find the Palazzo Pubblico – the government seat– and the Statue of Liberty, a marble sculpture that symbolizes the country’s freedom. 

    Piazza della Liberta
    Piazza della Liberta

    The piazza is a hub for local events and offers panoramic views of the surrounding area. There are a number of shops in the square and places to eat. You can even see the changing of the guard here.

    Take a Tour of the Palazzo Pubblico 

    Palazzo Pubblico (the Public Palace) is actually the town hall of the City of San Marino as well as its official Government Building. This is the seat of the Republic’s main administrative bodies: the Captains Regent, the Grand and General Council and the Congress of State. Here is also where official State ceremonies take place.

    View of Palazzo Pubblico in San Marino
    Palazzo Pubblico

    The palace is open to the public at specific times throughout the year, but it’s closed on certain holidays and during official ceremonies. To visit Palazzo Pubblico you’ll need to purchase a ticket, but if you buy San Marino Pass the entrance is included.  

    Palazzo Pubblico

    Step Inside the Basilica of San Marino

    The large cathedral in the center of the City of San Marino is the country’s main church and a significant landmark. Located in Piazza Domus Plebis, the cathedral is a site of deep spiritual significance as it houses the relics of Saint Marinus, the founder and patron saint of San Marino. 

    Basilica of San Marino
    Basilica of San Marino

    The interior features three naves and two side aisles which create a spacious and traditional basilica layout. Besides the main altar adorned with a statue of the saint, there are also several marble altars, as well as beautiful paintings, stain glass and frescos.

    The main nave of Basilica di San Marino

    Wander the Streets of the Historic Center

    Walking is the best way to experience the historic center of San Marino. Most of the Old Town is exclusively for pedestrians, allowing you to explore freely. You can wander the narrow alleyways and cobblestone streets, climb the staircases and check out the souvenir shops. Walking around is a great way to find unexpected viewpoints and interesting corners. And don’t worry about getting lost because this is a very compact area.

    Contrada de la Porta Nova
    Contrada de la Porta Nova

    Get a San Marino Stamp in Your Passport

    One of the nicest things to do in San Marino is visit the San Marino Tourism Office and have them stamp your passport for you. While you don’t need a visa to get into San Marino, many tourists love having their passports stamped when visiting this tiny country.

    San Marino passport stamp

    The stamps costs only €5 and that money goes towards promoting the tourism of San Marino.

    How to Get to San Marino

    San Marino is only accessible by bus or by car, as there is no train station or airport nearby. The closest city is Rimini, which is around 20 km away. In Rimini there is a bus connection which takes around 1 hour to San Marino and vice versa. There are frequent connections by a Bonelli Shuttle and Bus Benedettini every 1 hour and 30 minutes and costs €6. You can check the Bonelli Bus schedule here.

    We came by car as we were on a bigger tour of Italy and didn’t have any issues reaching it. We could also find parking, which is generally a problem in Europe.

    Parking in San Marino is available throughout the city and is relatively inexpensive. You may choose to leave your car down the hill in Borgo Maggiore and use the funicular (Funivia din San Marino) to reach the historic center. Or you can drive to it, if you don’t mind driving the uphill winding roads of Mount Titano. There are some parking places in the historic center, but they fill up very quickly during the summer months.

    Other Interesting Things to Know Before Visiting San Marino

    Culture and Traditions

    While San Marino is heavily influenced by its Italian surroundings, it maintains a strong national identity and is very proud of its history. The country has a rich and unique culture, with distinct traditions. Such is the Feast of San Marino on September 3rd when the Sammarinese commemorate the founding of their republic. If you are lucky to be here for that feast, you’ll witness parades, concerts, military displays, and medieval reenactments.

    the Feast of San Marino Celebration
    The Feast of San Marino Celebration

    There is also the Anniversary of the Arengo on March 25th, when they commemorate the 1906 meeting that restored direct democratic elections and ended over three centuries of oligarchic rule by the Grand and General Council.

    Medieval Days Festival in San Marino
    Medieval Days Festival

    Other traditions include the Feast of Saint Agatha and Medieval Days (Jouat Medioeva) a festival that transforms the city into a medieval setting with armored guards and traditional costumes.

    Language

    Although the official language is Italian, the Sammarinese also use a dialect of Emiliano-Romagnolo which incorporates local phrases into their everyday conversation. 

    One interesting thing to notice is that although it uses Euro as its official currency, San Marino is not part of the European Union.

    San Marino Government

    The Republic of San Marino does not have a presidential system per se. Instead, it has two heads of state known as the Captains Regent. This system dates back to the 13th century.

    Captains Regent of San Marino

    The two Captains Regent serve as heads of state and government for a six-month term. This tradition dating back to the 13th century ensures a balance of power. The two heads of state are typically elected from opposing parties. And not only that. San Marino has a long history of female leadership. Over the centuries, at least 20 women served as Captains Regent.

    How to Explore San Marino

    The historic center of San Marino is a very tiny place which can easily be explored on foot and without any guidance. Don’t be afraid of getting lost on its narrow alleyways because eventually you’ll end up where you started. There is no way to completely loose your way.

    In terms of time necessary to visit San Marino, we only had one full day and a night and thought that was enough. That’s not to say that you would run out of things to do if you had more time, but if you only want to visit the main attractions, 1-2 days should be enough.

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  • Is San Sebastián Worth Visiting? An Unbiased Opinion

    Is San Sebastián Worth Visiting? An Unbiased Opinion


    If you are planning a road trip to the Basque Country and wonder whether it’s worth including San Sebastián into your itinerary, this post is for you. We recently returned from a three-week to Spain, so in this article I’ll get into the pros and cons of visiting San Sebastián. Based on our experience, there are plenty of good reasons to visit this city, but there are also a few cons which may be a deterrent for you.

    Is San Sebastián worth visiting?
    San Sebastián-Donostia

    But First Things First: where is San Sebastián?

    San Sebastián is one of the four main cities in the Basque Country, Spain, next to Bilbao, Santander and Vitoria-Gasteiz, the region’s administrative capital. Officially known by the bilingual name Donostia/San Sebastián (Basque: Donostia, Spanish: San Sebastián), the city lies on the coast of the Bay of Biscay, about 12 miles from the border of Spain and France.

    The Pros of Visiting San Sebastián

    San Sebastián was once a summer vacation spot for the European elites, and once you see it you’ll understand why.

    It’s a Clean and Safe Place to Visit

    San Sebastian is generally a very safe city to visit. The crime rate is low in comparison to other cities in Spain. We spent about 5 days in San Sebastián and never felt unsafe, whether it was day time or night time. That being said, it’s always a good idea to be mindful of your belongings, especially in crowded areas like the Old Town, where pickpocketing can occasionally occur.

    What impressed me most was how clean an well maintained the streets and the buildings are hare. In fact, San Sebastian is famous for its elegant Belle Époque buildings and charming old streets.I

    Old Town San Sebastián
    Old Town in the morning

    In the heart of San Sebastian is its Old Quarter (Parte Vieja), a labyrinth of narrow streets lined with pintxos bars and local shops. This area which buzzes with activity, especially in the evening when locals and tourists come out for a drink and a bite to eat.

    People enjoying a drink in Plaza de la Constitucion
    People enjoying a drink in Plaza de la Constitucion

    Beautiful Beaches and an Amazing Scenery

    The city’s coastline location is a big draw for visitors. It has wide sandy beaches in either direction, while inland it abounds with green forests, high cliffs, and strange rock formations. When visiting San Sebastián you’ll be surprised how green, lush and diverse the landscape is. Even in the midst of summer, when the rest of Europe is baking in a heatwave, the city maintains its verdant color.

    Scenic view of San Sebastián
    Scenic view of San Sebastián

    Beach culture is a big thing in San Sebastián because the city is blessed with quite a few nice beaches. The most popular one is La Concha. The other two are Zurriola and Ondaretta.

    La Concha Beach

    Located in a small bay in the center of the city, La Concha Beach is by far the best in San Sebastián and truly worth visiting. The beach has calm waters, fine golden sand and abundant amenities like sun-beds, umbrellas, showers, lifeguards on duty. Its protected location from the wind make it perfect for swimming, sunbathing and various water sports.

    La Concha beach in San Sebastián
    La Concha Beach

    Zurriola Beach

    Another beautiful beach is Zurriola, located on the other side of the river in the Gros neighborhood. This beach is very popular for surfing, but not so much for swimming because of its strong currents and big waves.

    Zuriolla beach in the evening
    Zuriolla beach in the evening

    Exquisite Food

    One of the reasons San Sebastian is worth visiting is its food. What makes the food here so special? It’s the ingredients, the fresh seafood, the local produce, and the artisan cheeses they use. The city’s rocky coastline bordered by rolling green hills and farmland, make this area great for fishing, farming, and gardening. The fresh seafood and produce are delivered almost immediately to the world-class restaurants.

    Tamboril restaurant in San Sebastián
    Tamboril, one of the Michelin-star restaurants in San Sebastián

    San Sebastián has a large number of Michelin-starred restaurants. You practically stumble upon them almost everywhere you go in this city. Some of the most renowned are Casa Unroll (3 Michelin stars), Kokotxa (3 Michelin star), Mirador de Ulia (3 Michelin star), Ikaitz (2 Michelin Stars), and Tamboril (1 Michelin stars).

    small snacks called pintos
    Pintxos, small snacks characteristic to the Basque Country

    But the city is especially famous for its pintxos (pronounced pin-chos), which are small snacks typically served in bars. These delicious bites are a huge part of Basque culture. You’ll find the best pintxo bars in the old town, especially the streets around the Basilica. And while strolling the old town, don’t miss the traditional Basque cheesecake, which is quite different from the one we have here, in the USA.

    It’s Home to the Oldest European Culture

    The Basques have one of Europe’s oldest and most unique cultures. Their language and traditions are very different from the rest of Spain, so there is a good reason why they consider themselves a distinct cultural group. They cherish their unique language, music and folklore and try to preserve them the best they can. Even their dances set them apart from the rest of Spain or Europe.

    Locals dressed in folk Basque costumes performing a dance
    Locals dressed in folk Basque costumes performing a dance

    If you want to experience the traditional Basque music and dances, San Sebastián is the place to go. Basque dances are performed on the old town streets, in plazas or public places at during all the festivities and celebrations in the Basque Country. In June, when we visited the city, they had traditional Basque dances every evening in Plaza de la Constitución.

    Lots of Places to Walk or Hike

    If you are looking to spend some time outdoors, San Sebastián has plenty of delightful places to stretch your legs.

    Mount Urgull

    Overlooking the Old Quarter, the summit of Monte Urgull and the 40 foot tall Christ statue at the top are visible from many points in the city. One of the nicest things to do in San Sebastián hike to the very top of the mountain. It’s really a nice walk that goes only in the shade, with breathtaking views. While the paths are nicely paved, there are some steep parts as well as stairs in some places.

    The walls of Castelo de la Mota at the top of Mount Urgull
    The walls of Castelo de la Mota at the top of Mount Urgull

    This is a great place to observe the city and the sea. The different paths around the area open up to many scenic lookout points that are hidden between leafy patches. At the very top of the mountain you’ll see upclose the Sagrado Corazon statue (the statue of Christ) as well as the fortifications and cannons of the Castelo de la Mota.

    View of Christ Statue at the top of Mount Urgull
    Christ Statue at the top of Mount Urgull

    La Concha Promenade (Paseo de la Concha)

    Next to La Concha Beach there is a long promenade that follows the bay, bordered by a wrought-iron balustrade. This is a great place for walking, cycling, or people-watching. The lively promenade offers great views of La Concha Bay and Santa Clara Island. It also passes by opulent looking buildings, such as the emblematic Londres Hotel and Miramar Palace.

    view of Paseo de la Concha
    Paseo de la Concha

    Don’t miss the famous Clocks scattered along the promenade, which the locals use as meeting points. Also located on the promenade is the famous thermal springs spa of La Perla. This is the only center of thalassotherapy in town, reminiscent of the time when San Sebastián was a spa city.

    Mount Igueldo

    Located on the western side of La Concha Beach is Monte Igueldo, a leafy mountain that features a funicular train, great views and even a roller coaster. As you ascend the mountain on the funicular, you will enjoy the stunning panoramic view of San Sebastián. Once at the top, you can go on a roller coaster and a few other amusement park rides that operate at the top of the mountain. 

    Spectacular view from the top of Mt. Igueldo

    Having been up to both peaks in San Sebastián, I think visiting Mt. Igueldo is truly worth it for the views, which are absolutely amazing. Also, if you don’t want to spend money on the funicular (€2.80) you can also hike to the top.

    funicular at Mt. Igueldo
    The funicular at Mt. Igueldo

    It Has Interesting Museums

    If you have time for museums, you’ll find quite a few worth visiting in Donostia-San Sebastian. Like Eurika! Science Museum, San Telmo Museum, which is housed in an ancient convent in San Telmo, Museum of Sacred Art, or History House in the Castillo de la Mota at the top of Monte Urgull, where you can find out about the history of San Sebastián.

    images from the museums of San Sebastián
    Museums in Donostia-San Sebastian

    Cons of Visiting San Sebastián

    After listing so many good reasons to visit San Sebastián, you may be wondering what could be the cons. Well, like I promised in my title, this will be an unbiased review of San Sebastián where I’ll give both the good and the bad and let you decide whether it’s worth visiting or not.

    The Weather is Totally Unpredictable

    If you decide to visit San Sebastián, be prepared for rain. You may like the lush, green vegetation and cooler temperatures during the summer, but there is a reason for this. San Sebastián receives more rainfall than almost anywhere else in Spain, with an average 59 inches of rain per year. The rainiest months are October to January, but it rains often and during every season. Even in summer.

    Rainy day in San Sebastián
    Rainy day in June in San Sebastián

    You can count that on one of the summer months will be a rainy mess, but the other two will usually be warm and sunny. The problem is you never know which month will be the rainy one. And when it rains, it rains! If you are lucky, it’s just a short shower. But sometimes it rains for a few hours and often it rains for days in a row.

    It’s Expensive

    Generally, San Sebastián is rated as a moderately expensive city, but that was not our experience. When compared to other European city, San Sebastián is among the top 15% most expensive cities in Europe.

    They say that on average, a visitor can spend about $150 per day when visiting San Sebastian, while a couple would spend an average of $267 per day. Of course, prices will vary a lot based on the travel style and length of trip. But if you stay at moderately priced hotels, eat at affordable restaurants, and use public transportation, this is what you can expect to pay.

    However, if you want to go to a couple of Michelin restaurants, stay in the center of the city where you can walk practically everywhere, or rent a car for day trips, the price per day will jump considerably.

    It Has Big Crowds

    San Sebastián is a popular beach town with a beautiful seashore and a charming old town. The problem is that it’s not very big, so if you plan to visit it during the summer time, when the weather is nice and your chances of getting rain are slimmer, you’ll be faced with big crowds. That’s especially a problem at La Concha Beach, or when you try to get a seat at one of the bars or restaurants in the Old Quarter.

    big crows on a narrow street in Donostia
    Big crowds in Donostia-San Sebastián

    Streets will also be very crowded and sometimes you’ll have to walk almost shoulder to shoulder with other people.

    Unfriendly Locals

    We travel extensively through Europe and by comparison I can safely say that locals in the Basque region aren’t exactly friendly, or willing to help. They seem rather impatient and uninterested in you, as a tourist. This is especially true for San Sebastián, which sees a lot of visitors every year.

    We had quite a few experiences within the five days we’ve spent there and in almost all circumstances we received average or poor service. Waiters who wouldn’t show up to take the order, or were obviously annoyed by merely asking for another drink. Shopkeepers who wouldn’t acknowledge our presence and would continue their private conversation. Hotel receptionists who were very arrogant and patronizing, and so on.

    Who is San Sebastian Best Suited For?

    San Sebastián is a perfect blend of natural landscapes and city attractions. Home to the world’s finest food, wine, art, and so much more! Because of its luxurious appeal, the city has always been a retreat for royalty and European aristocracy, which is why I believe it’s perfect for travelers looking for relaxation, culture and gastronomy.

    It is also a great city for couples looking for a romantic getaway or in search of a serene seaside retreat.

    people visiting San Sebastián
    Visiting San Sebastián

    In short, if you love the outdoors, you’ll find plenty of opportunities for hiking, surfing, and water sports in San Sebastián. And if you like to discover new dishes and wines, you’ll be in Heaven here!

    A Final Note

    So, is San Sebastián worth visiting? After reading both the pros and cons, I’m pretty sure your answer will be yes! In San Sebastián you’ll experience some of the best food in Spain, enjoy gorgeous scenery, visit beautiful museums and learn a few things about the oldest culture in Europe.

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