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  • Walking the Thames Path National Trail

    Walking the Thames Path National Trail


    Read our tips for hiking the Thames Path National Trail, a 300km long distance path that runs from the source of the River Thames in Gloucestershire, to the start of the Thames estuary in London. On the way you’ll see the river transition from a muddy puddle, through tranquil water meadows and an ever more urban landscape, until you reach the historic landmarks of London.

    Tips for hiking the Thames Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Tips for hiking the Thames Trail

    How long does it take to walk the Thames Path Trail?

    The path is divided into 15 day long stages, which can be walked consecutively or in any order. Some of the days break easily into a couple of shorter half day sections, if you want to add additional rest time or sightseeing stops.

    We chose to walk the trail in stages of 1-2 days over the course of a year. If want to walk the whole trail but have limited time, one option is to miss out some of the stages and just walk the parts that interest you most. I think this is better than trying to speed up the walk and then missing the points of interest along the way.

    Inglesham - Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Inglesham – Thames Path National Trail

    We found the timings and distances in our guidebook to be pretty accurate, but they didn’t allow for any stops, so we normally added 1-1.5 hours to each day. Our average walking speed including all breaks was around 3.4 miles per hour and we normally walked around 6 hours each day.

    I’ve broken the trail into 4 separate articles, each covering 3-4 days that could be walked over a long weekend. You can read all the articles below.

    What can I expect to see on the Thames Path National Trail?

    Read about: Source to Oxford – Days 1-4

    From a trickle of water at its source, the Thames meanders through the Cotswolds in verdant fields and water meadows, transitioning from stream to navigable river. For these first four days, the path offers a taste of English rural life, strolling through fields and small villages.

    Thames Path National Trail Days 1-4 Kemble to Oxford © Heatheronhertravels.com

    Read about: Oxford to Henley – Days 5-8

    Along this part of the Thames lie charming towns and villages, that prospered from trade flowing down the river, transporting goods from the Cotswolds to London.

    You’ll enjoy wild and isolated water meadows, but there’s also the pleasant buzz of canalboats passing through flower filled locks and riverside towns going about their business.

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail Day 5-8

    Read about: Henley to Kingston – Days 9-12

    This section offers a blend of rural to urban landscapes, as the river flows steadily towards the outskirts of London. You’ll pass the prosperous riverside towns of Henley and Marlow, known for their rowing traditions and ornate Edwardian boathouses.

    As the railways developed westwards from the 1850s, this stretch of the Thames came within the reach of Londoners for day trips, when regattas and rowing boats were all the rage.

    Thames Path 9-12 Henley to Kingston featured

    Read about: Kingston to Woolwich – Days 13-15

    The final section of the walk brings you through the centre of London. You’ll pass through the leafy suburbs of Richmond and Kew, past the historic landmarks of central London, ending in the old industrial area of London’s Docklands at Woolwich.

    Thames Path Trail Kingston to Woolwich featured

    How difficult is the Thames Path National Trail?

    I’d rate the Thames Path as an easy route, but one that’s most enjoyable for all ages and abilities. The Thames Path is well marked in all parts of the route, even the most rural.

    Mostly the path runs alongside the river, so it’s difficult to get lost. The path is flat and varies between rural grass or stone footpaths and, as you get closer to London, paved paths alongside the river.

    Approaching Richmond Bridge - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Approaching Richmond Bridge – Thames Path National Trail

    The exception is the first few stages in the Cotswolds that can be muddy and a bit slippery in autumn and winter. If this is a problem, I’d skip sections 1 and 2 from Kemble to Lechlade and start the walk at Lechlade.

    Oxford Towpath - Thames Path National Trail Photo © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Oxford Towpath – Thames Path National Trail

    The only challenge we found was that a couple of the rural sections between Lechlade and Oxford are quite long, without an obvious place to break the day’s walk. In this case you might have to plan for an early start with only short breaks.

    There are also a few sections where footbridges or parts of the path may be closed for repairs (often for months or years at a time). This is an annoyance, but there are always detours in place which may add to length of the walk. Where we encountered these, I’ve explained the options in my more detailed articles about each section of the walk.

    Where to stay on The Thames Path Trail

    In most of the small towns in the Cotswold sections of the walk, you’ll find a choice of pubs, B&Bs and hotels. We normally stayed in a pub, as they offer modest but comfortable accommodation and reasonably priced food in the evening.

    Beetle and Wedge pub Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Stay in riverside pubs on the Thames Path National Trail

    Another great choice for walkers is a B&B, where you’ll normally find a friendly welcome and comfortable, well priced room. However, you’ll need to find a place to eat in the evening and these days breakfast may or may not be included, so check first.

    If you prefer something a bit more stylish and luxurious, some of the larger towns and villages have very nice hotels. If you like camping, there are some campsites on the route, but personally I’d rather pay a little more and not have to carry all the kit.

    I use Booking.com to book hotels, as it’s easy to see all information about the hotels and keep track of the bookings, as well as obtain their Genius discounts if you’re a regular user. You can also find all the places we stayed on Expedia if that’s your preference.

    Henley Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Henley Thames Path National Trail

    We didn’t find any hostels along the trail, although once you reach the London sections of the route, these may be a short bus or train ride away. A couple of the more rural stretches of the trail only have one or two options for accommodation, in which case you’ll need to book up in advance.

    List of recommended accommodation for each day

    Here’s our list of recommended places to stay at the end of each day’s walk, and you can find more options in the relevant articles.

    What to wear on the Thames Path Trail

    The trail is mostly easy and flat, so if walking short sections of the trail you don’t need any special clothing. However as we wanted to be comfortable for full day walks in all weathers here’s what we used.

    Marlow Bridge Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Marlow Bridge Thames Path National Trail
    • Hiking boots, hiking shoes or supportive trainers – the more rural sections of the walk can get muddy or even waterlogged outside the summer months. My favourite hiking shoes are from Keen as I find their wide toe-bed very comfortable and I’d recommend the Keen Targhee or Nxis Evo hiking shoes for this kind of trail.
    • Quick drying walking trousers, leggings or shorts. Avoid materials like denim or heavy cotton that won’t easily dry after a rain shower.
    • T-shirts that are comfortable and breathable – I usually wear a sports t-shirt.
    Richmond on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Wearing a sports t-shirt on the Thames Path National Trail
    • A necker like the ones from Buff guards against chills around the neck in Spring and Autumn and can also double up as a beanie style hat. A hat for either cold weather or to shade against the sun like this sports cap is also useful.
    Eaton meadows - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Using my hiking pole on the Thames Path National Trail

    Packing for the Thames Path Trail

    If walking just a day at a time, where you can leave most of your luggage in a car or hotel, you’ll need a day sack. I find 15 – 20 Litres is about the right size for me, like this Osprey Hikelite 18L day sack.

    If you are walking for several days at a time from hotel to hotel, you’ll need a slightly larger rucksack to accommodate overnight clothes. In this case I’d recommend a 25 – 30L rucksack like the Osprey Hikelite 26L rucksack.

    Fiddler's Bridge Oxford - Thames Path National Trail Photo © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Fiddler’s Bridge Oxford – Thames Path National Trail

    In my day sack I normally pack;

    • Tissues / wet wipes / a small amount of toilet paper
    • A small home made first aid kit with plasters and basic medication
    • The Thames Path National Trail guide book
    • A few reuseable ziplock bags for picnics and other small items
    • Water bottles – I don’t have a special water bottle but instead have several 500ml plastic water bottles which I refill and re-use, then recycle once beyond reuse. For this walk I carried 3 x 500ml water bottles as there were plenty of places to fill up along the route.
    • Picnic items and snacks – these can easily be purchased in a convenience store at the start of each day.
    • A spare pair of socks in case your feet get soaked
    • My lightweight fleece and waterproof jacket are stored in my backpack when not worn.

    Best time of year to walk the Thames Path National Trail

    The optimum months for walking the Thames Path Trail as a whole are May, June and September. These are the months when you’ll find most sunny days and the river and surrounding meadows are less likely to be waterlogged.

    Flooding can be an issue along the Thames, especially in the winter months. Before making firm plans you can check for flood warnings along the Thames Path Trail here and for detours on the path here.

    Isleworth Wharf - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail in early summer

    Spring (March – May) – you may get bright sunny days for day walks. However until May the more rural sections of the path may experience flooding or be waterlogged.

    Summer (June – August) – warm sunny days and the riverside meadows and footpaths will be at their driest. These are the months when temperatures can climb so check the weather forecast and avoid really hot days. Accommodation will be most expensive in summer, especially in July and August. On the sections that run through London you may find a lot of tourists.

    Bisham Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail in Autumn

    Autumn (September – October) – the weather is normally bright and sunny, but as you move into winter the paths may become more muddy after rain. Check for flood warnings after heavy rain.

    Winter (November – February) – avoid walking the more rural sections of the trail during the winter months due to muddy paths and flooded water meadows that lead to endless detours. However, on bright winter days it is possible to walk the paved sections of the path in and around London. Check first for flood warnings, as the river may overflow even paved riverside paths.

    Thames Path at Marlow Bridge Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Hiking the Thames Path in winter

    Best day walks on the Thames Path National Trail

    If you only have time to walk a few sections of the whole trail, these were our favourites;

    Day 4 – Newbridge to Oxford – an idyllic rural stretch with pretty stone bridges and locks, although it’s difficult to get to Newbridge by public transport – Read more about this stretch.

    Northmoor Lock on the Thames path national trail July 24 Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Northmoor Lock on the Thames path national trail

    Day 5 – Oxford to Abingdon – from the ancient university town through leafy water meadows to the attractive town of Abingdon – Read more about this stretch.

    Osney Lock Oxford Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Osney Lock Oxford Thames Path National Trail

    Day 9 – Henley to Marlow – pretty villages and riverside spots on part of the river famous for its rowing regattas (although you may have to make a detour if Temple Bridge is closed) – Read more about this stretch.

    Thames Path at Marlow Bridge © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Thames Path at Marlow Bridge

    Day 10 – Marlow to Windsor – picturesque riverside towns with views of Edwardian mansions and boathouses – Read more about this stretch.

    Cliveden Boathouse - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Cliveden Boathouse – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 13 – Kingston to Putney – past the prettiest London suburbs of Teddington, Richmond, Kew and Putney – Read more about this stretch.

    Richmond on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Richmond on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 14 – Putney to Tower Bridge – covering the South Bank and most of London’s historic landmarks – Read more about this stretch.

    South Bank on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    South Bank on the Thames Path National Trail

    Attractions to visit on the Thames Path National Trail

    If you are interested in visiting historic attractions on your journey, these are worth a stop, although you may need to build in extra days to do them justice. Check opening times of individual attractions as some may not be open all year round.

    Kelmscott Manor on the Thames path national trail July 24 Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Kelmscott Manor on the Thames path national trail

    Stage 3 – Kelmscott Manor – the manor house and gardens were owned by 19th century artist William Morris, whose designs epitomise the ‘Arts and Crafts’ movement.

    Day 4 & 5 – Oxford – this ancient university town is worthy of adding an extra day to soak up the beautiful architecture of the colleges. Read more about things to do in Oxford.

    Day 10 – Cookham – the pretty village has the Stanley Spencer gallery dedicated to the 20th century artist Stanley Spencer who lived here.

    Stanley Spencer Gallery Cookham - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Stanley Spencer Gallery in Cookham – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 10 & 11 – WindsorWindsor Castle is one of the main residences of the English Royal Family with a chapel where many of them were married.

    Day 11 – Runnymede Meadow – this is the location of an historic meeting in 1215 between King John and his barons, leading to the Magna Carta, which curtailed the powers of the monarchy.

    Day 12 – Hampton Court – the royal palace with extensive gardens was the home of King Henry VIII and later monarchs.

    Gates of Hampton Court - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Gates of Hampton Court – Thames Path National Trail

    Day 13 – Ham House – a 17th century mansion with formal gardens, managed by the National Trust.

    Day 13 – Kew Gardens – the Royal botanical gardens with floral displays, exhibitions and Victorian glasshouses.

    Day 13 – Barnes Wetland Centre – a nature reserve that was created from the Barn Elms reservoir.

    Day 14 – London – this stretch into London offers numerous riverside attractions which include the South Bank arts complex, Tate Modern, Shakespeare’s Globe, Southwark Cathedral, Borough Market, Tower Bridge.

    Day 15 – Greenwich – there are several historic attractions here that come under the Royal Museums Greenwich, including the Royal Naval College, Queen’s House, National Maritime Museum and Royal Observatory.

    Where to take a rest day on the Thames Path National Trail

    The best places to plan a rest day are;

    Oxford – Days 4 & 5 – explore the ancient colleges and soak up the history of this university town. Read about all the things to do in Oxford.

    Henley Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Henley on the Thames Path National Trail

    Henley – Day 8 & 9 – a pretty riverside town famous for its rowing regatta in July.

    Windsor – Day 10 & 11 – a sizeable town with the attractions of Windsor Castle and nearby Cliveden.

    Views from Richmond Hill - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Richmond Hill – Thames Path National Trail

    Richmond – Day 13 – a pretty riverside suburb of London with a park, green spaces, riverside walks, shops and restaurants. Read about the view from Richmond Hill.

    London – Day 14 & 15 – the city has numerous cultural attractions, museums, shops and interesting neighbourhoods to explore.

    Tower Bridge on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Tower Bridge on the Thames Path National Trail

    Can you camp on the Thames Path National Trail?

    Wild camping without permission is not permitted by the Thames Path, which mainly passes across privately owned farmland. The first few stages between the Thames Source and Oxford are quite rural but the landscape is open fields with few secluded spots.

    After Oxford the area around the river becomes more heavily populated, so it would be difficult to find a quiet camping spot other than in an official campsite.

    Thames Path National Trail Pangbourne to Goring Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Thames Path National Trail Pangbourne to Goring

    There are a few campsites that are close to the Thames Path, although some only operate in the summer months.

    Day 1 – Source to Cricklade – Elm Lea Camping near Cricklade (Camping and Caravanning Club members only site)

    Day 2 – Cricklade to Lechlade – Bridge House Campsite near Lechlade (closed in winter)

    Day 4 – Newbridge to Oxford – Valley Farm Campsite near Oxford

    Day 6 – Abingdon to Wallingford – High Lodge Farm near Abingdon

    Day 7 – Wallingford to Pangbourne – Bridge Villa Camping and Caravan Park near Wallingford

    Where to eat on the Thames Path national Trail

    We found it easy to find picnic supplies and places to eat along the trail. Most of the start and end points of the day’s stage are in small towns or villages, with a convenience store selling a range of picnic supplies.

    The place you stay overnight will have at least one pub and often a range of restaurants for an evening meal.

    Paper Boat Cafe Oxford Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Paper Boat Cafe Oxford Thames Path National Trail

    Every stage also passes at least one pub or cafe on the route, although most pubs don’t open until around 11am in case you are looking for an early coffee. On the more rural section in Gloucestershire and Oxfordshire, you may need to check what’s available at your start and end point, since occasionally it’s just a pub with no convenience store.

    In this case you’ll need to carry enough picnic supplies for a two days. We would typically pack a picnic and snacks to eat throughout the walk, but make one or two stops for coffee or a drink at a pub or cafe. Tap water in England is fine to drink and any pub or cafe will fill up your water bottle for you.

    Tearoom at Cookham - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Tearoom at Cookham – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Transport on The Thames Path Trail

    I walked the Thames Path trail with my sister in 2 day stages and we tried to use public transport where possible.

    We found the closer you get to London, the more regular and easy the public transport becomes. In the more rural sections of Gloucestershire near the Thames source, there is more limited public transport and even the buses may not take you where you need to go.

    On the upper part of the river, from the Thames source to around Reading we found transport needed to be planned carefully.

    Cows near Cookham - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Cows near Cookham – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    As we live fairly locally, we were able to get around this by driving to a start or end point and then using the bus or train to return to the car at the end of the day. On some occasions we had to use two cars, positioning one at either end of the day’s walk.

    Of course, transport is much less of an issue if you plan to walk all 15 days sequentially. Another good option is to break the walk into sections of 2-4 days, starting and ending at the locations that are most accessible by bus or train (use Trainline to plan your train journeys).

    For this reason I have written separate articles, each covering a 3-4 day section of the trail, that starts and ends at a convenient point with good transport links. The articles below have more detailed public transport information for each day’s walk.

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Source to Oxford – Days 1-4

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Oxford to Henley – Days 5-8

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Henley to Kingston – Days 9-12

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – Kingston to Woolwich – Days 13-15

    Pangbourne Station Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Pangbourne Station Thames Path National Trail

    Train and bus options

    Many of the points along the Thames Path are accessible by train, especially the Great Western Railway line that runs from London to Bristol. We recommend using Trainline to check timings and book train tickets online.

    There’s also a pretty good network of local buses running between smaller towns and villages, but you need to check timetables carefully as they may run every hour or less.

    I used my mapping app to identify which buses serve which routes, then used the bus provider’s website to check exact timings. Once you get close to London, there’s an excellent network of overground trains, underground trains and local buses.

    In the rural areas there aren’t lots of taxis, but calling one from a pub (they can often give you the number of a local taxi company) would be an option if you are really stuck.

    You can find detailed transport information for each day in my individual articles about the Thames Path National Trail.

    From Source to Oxford – Days 1-4

    From Oxford to Henley – Days 5-8

    From Henley to Kingston – Days 9-12

    From Kingston to Woolwich – Days 13-15

    Goring Lock Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Goring Lock Thames Path National Trail

    Which direction is best to walk the Thames Path?

    We walked the Thames Path from its source in the Cotswolds to its end in London. This seemed to us the most logical route, since we saw the river’s evolution from a muddy ditch to a mighty flow through London’s impressive urban landscape.

    Thames Source - Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Thames Source – Thames Path National Trail

    We were also influenced by living in Bristol, so we started at the point closest to us. However, if you live in London it might make sense to start there and follow the river to its source.

    You might also be influenced by the season you decide to walk, since the more rural sections closest to the source can be very muddy and waterlogged through autumn and winter. Other than these considerations there is no right or wrong place to start and end the Thames Path.

    Lechlade on Thames Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Lechlade on Thames Trail

    Is the Thames Path easy to follow?

    We found the Thames Path extremely easy to follow. All the sections are well marked with clear signposts and wherever we met a diversion, due to flooding or building works, this was also well signposted. There are other footpaths that cross the Thames Path, but it was easy to distinguish between the Thames Path and other footpaths.

    As it generally follows the river, you can’t go far wrong if you have it in your sight, although it’s worth mentioning that sometimes the path does divert a little way from the Thames river itself. It would certainly be possible to follow the Thames Path Trail by just following the signposts.

    Wandsworth - Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Wandsworth – Thames Path National Trail

    However, we do recommend taking a guidebook to get more information about the places you’ll pass, distance and timings and some history and context for the walk.

    The guidebook we used and recommend is the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide. We liked the easy to follow maps and the fact that it’s just as easy to follow for walking in either direction.

    Resources for hiking the Thames Path National Trail

    Train bookings – we recommend Trainline for easy online rail bookings. Buses can be paid for by tapping on and off with your debit card.

    Book accommodation: to book hotels online and conveniently have all your bookings in once place, we used Booking.com but if you prefer you could also use Expedia.

    Guidebook – we used and recommend the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide – this is the one we used and we liked the easy to follow maps and the fact that it’s just as easy to follow for walking in either direction.

    The Thames Path National Trail website is a useful source of information about the trail as a whole.

    If you have questions about our walk on the Thames Path National Trail, feel free to email me at heather(at)heatheronhertravels(dot)com

    Read Next

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Source to Oxford – Days 1-4

    Thames Path National Trail Days 1-4 Kemble to Oxford © Heatheronhertravels.com

    Read more about our walk on the Thames Path Trail

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Oxford to Henley – Days 5-8

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Henley to Kingston – Days 9-12

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – Kingston to Woolwich – Days 13-15

    Walking the Thames Path National Trail – our top tips (this article)

    Thames Path Tips Photo Album

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  • Thames Path National Trail – Oxford to Henley

    Thames Path National Trail – Oxford to Henley


    Walking from Oxford to Henley on the Thames Path National Trail, you’ll enjoy wild and isolated water meadows, but there’s also the pleasant buzz of canalboats passing through flower filled locks and riverside towns going about their business. Along this part of the Thames lie charming towns and villages, that prospered from trade flowing down the river, transporting goods from the Cotswolds to London.

    Thames Path National Trail Day 5-8 Oxford to Henley Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Thames Path National Trail Day 5-8 Oxford to Henley

    This article may contain affiliate links that provide commission on purchases you make at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

    Days 5-8 – Oxford to Henley

    The beauty of the Thames Path National Trail is that the 15 days of walking can easily be split up into sections, if you don’t want to walk it in one go. My sister and I took around a year to complete the whole trail, normally walking for a couple of days at a time.

    We chose to start from the Thames Source and walk towards London, but this four day leg from Oxford to Henley or any part of the trail can be walked in either direction.

    As the Thames Path is 15 days long, I decided to break my articles into 4 sections, each covering 3-4 days walking on the trail. I hope to provide detailed information for walkers on all the practicalities such transport and accommodation, as well as what to see on the trail.

    You’re reading the second of the 4 articles describing Days 5-8 of our walk on the Thames Path National Trail, and if you haven’t already done so, you can also read:

    The section before this one:

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Source to Oxford – Days 1-4

    The sections after this one:

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Henley to Kingston – Days 9-12

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – Kingston to Woolwich – Days 13-15

    Sandford Lock Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Sandford Lock Thames Path National Trail

    Essential planning for Days 5-8 – Oxford to Henley

    If you are walking sections 5-8 of the Thames Trail over a 4 day period, here are the planning essentials. Day 8 is one of the longest sections at 17 miles, so you might want to consider breaking it up at Reading, which would add a fifth day to the walk.

    Book the train or coach to Oxford for the start of the walk – There are direct trains from London Paddington or London Marylebone. We recommend Trainline for easy rail and coach bookings. You can also get coaches from London and other cities to Oxford, or from London take the frequent Oxford Tube bus service.

    Book accommodation: For the night before starting the walk at Oxford (if required) – there are numerous options, check these Oxford hotels | Day 5 Abingdon – Old Abbey House | Day 6 Wallingford – The Town Arms | Day 7 Pangbourne – Elephant Hotel | Day 8 ends in Henley. This is a long walking day so you may prefer to break it in two at Reading – The Market House or walk the full day to Henley – The Catherine Wheel

    Book the train from Henley at the end of this 4 day section – if heading to London you can change at Twyford, for the GWR Bristol to London Paddington line or the Elizabeth Line. We recommend Trainline for easy rail bookings.

    Guidebook – buy the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide – this is the one we used and found it excellent for walking in either direction. While a guidebook is not essential, we enjoyed using this one as it added useful information and context to our walk.

    I’ll be publishing further articles in this Thames Path series very soon. In the meantime, if you have questions about our walk on the Thames Path National Trail, feel free to email me at heather(at)heatheronhertravels(dot)com

    Osney Bridge Oxford Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Osney Bridge Oxford Thames Path National Trail

    Day 5 – Oxford to Abingdon

    The university town of Oxford, with colleges dating back to the 13th century, is well worth lingering a while. So if you enjoy sightseeing, arrive the day before your walk, allowing extra time to soak up all that history and gorgeous architecture. You can get some more inspiration from my article: A weekend in Oxford – our 48 hour itinerary

    The day’s walk starts at Osney Bridge which is conveniently close to Oxford’s train station. Through Oxford, the Thames ribbons into a number of canals and waterways. The towpath is shared with a constant flow of cyclists, so you should keep an eye out for them or risk being run down!

    Osney Lock Oxford Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Osney Lock Oxford Thames Path National Trail

    Finally the Thames path leaves Oxford behind at Folly Bridge, named after a quirky 19th century building and tower, with a wharf opposite the Head of the River pub, where boat trips leave for Abingdon.

    Folly Bridge Oxford Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Folly Bridge Oxford Thames Path National Trail

    The river, which is also known as the Isis at this point, now meanders through meadows until you pass Isis Farmhouse. Operating as a pub open mainly at weekends, this old farmhouse has large gardens to sup a pint overlooking the river.

    Isis Farmhouse Oxford Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Isis Farmhouse Oxford Thames Path National Trail

    Nearby is Iffley Lock with its arched stone punter’s bridge, which is the starting point for the Oxford University boat races. The next stretch includes Sandford Lock and then a long walk alongside water meadows until you reach Abingdon Lock.

    Iffley Lock Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Heather at Iffley Lock Thames Path National Trail

    From here it’s just a short stroll to Abingdon Bridge, which you cross to enter the town.

    Abingdon Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Abingdon Thames Path National Trail

    Day 5 – Distance and timings

    Oxford to Abingdon is aprox 9.5 miles / 15.2 km. It took us around 5.5 hrs to walk, including a coffee stop at Paper Boat Cafe and a picnic break at one of the locks.

    Day 5 – Where to stay

    Oxford – there’s a huge choice of pubs, guest houses, hotels and hostels, but book ahead as the city is a popular tourist hotspot – check all Oxford hotels.

    Old Abbey House Abingdon

    The Old Abbey House is located in Abingdon, 10 miles from University of Oxford

    Abingdon – the town offers a wide range of pubs, hotels and guest houses for accommodation. For charming and affordable accommodation in Abingdon, we recommend S Howard B & B where we stayed or for a centrally located alternative try Old Abbey House.

    Abingdon Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Abingdon Thames Path National Trail

    Day 5 – Where to eat

    Oxford – there are many food shops, cafes and pubs at Oxford. By Folly Bridge, we enjoyed a coffee overlooking the river at the charming Paper Boat Cafe. Opposite the bridge is the Head of the River pub, which would be another dining option.

    Paper Boat Cafe Oxford Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Paper Boat Cafe Oxford Thames Path National Trail

    Pub stops after this are Isis Farmhouse (Friday – Sunday from midday) or the Kings Arms at Sandford Lock.

    Abingdon – there are many shops and restaurants in the town, and we enjoyed a drink in the riverside garden of the Nag’s Head.

    Nag's Head Abingdon Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Nag’s Head Abingdon Thames Path National Trail

    Day 5 – Transport for this stage

    Oxford – the town has a station and is well connected by rail and coach to London and other towns on the Thames path.

    Abingdon – there is no station, the nearest being at Radley, which is 15 mins by No 35 bus or 1 hour walk. From London take the train from Paddington station to Didcot Parkway, then change for the branch line to Radley.

    Frequent buses ( X1, X2, X3, X15) run between Oxford and Abingdon and the journey time is 30 minutes.

    Meadows near Sandford Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Meadows near Sandford Thames Path National Trail

    Options by car – At both Oxford and Abingdon, there are several public car parks to choose from, where you can leave your car for the day. In Oxford try the Oatlands Road Car Park in Botley, or the Port Meadow South Parking, both of which are close to the Thames Path.

    For this leg we left our car in the car park at Abingdon, took the bus to Oxford, then walked the Thames path back to Abingdon, where we stayed the night.

    Osney Bridge Oxford Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Osney Bridge Oxford Thames Path National Trail

    Day 6 – Abingdon – Dorchester – Wallingford

    Abingdon is a pretty riverside town, named after the Medieval Abbey that was founded here. Crossing the stone bridge from the town, the path runs alongside water meadows to Dorchester and this section has a rather wild and isolated feel.

    Abingdon Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Abingdon Thames Path National Trail

    In two sections at Culham and Long Wittenham, the path follows a canal making a short cut away from the meandering loops of the river. Clifton Lock was a riot of colour with gardens in full bloom and a friendly lock-keeper who sold us ice creams.

    Clifton Hampden Lock Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Clifton Hampden Lock Thames Path National Trail

    The riverside village of Clifton Hampden makes a good lunch stop since it has this section’s only pub, The Barley Mow. Another big loop through water meadows brings you to Day’s Lock close to Dorchester, although the town is out of sight.

    Clifton Hampden Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Heather at Clifton Hampden Thames Path National Trail

    It’s possible to walk into Dorchester and break your journey here, but we continued on to Shillingford Bridge, where the footpath takes a short diversion away from the river.

    Shillingford Bridge Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Shillingford Bridge Thames Path National Trail

    At Benson Lock you need to cross the river, but the footbridge was undergoing repairs and we took the ferry that runs back and forth instead. Check that in advance that the ferry is running, or you may have to take a diversion from the footpath to reach Wallingford. Benson Lock also has a busy Waterside Cafe, that serves the customers of the holiday boat hire business that operates from here.

    Benson Lock Ferry Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Heather on the Benson Lock Ferry Thames Path National Trail

    Once you’ve crossed by ferry at Benson Lock, it’s a short walk to Wallingford, an attractive market town with shops and cafes around the central square.

    Day 6 – Distance and timings

    Abingdon to Wallingford is aprox 14 miles / 22.5 km. This was one of our longer days but it could be broken into 2 shorter legs at Dorchester. It took us around 7.5 hrs to walk, including a coffee at Benson Lock, picnic break and drink at Clifton Hampden.

    Meadows near Culham Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Meadows near Culham Thames Path National Trail

    Day 6 – Where to stay

    Abingdon – there’s a wide range of pubs, hotels and guest houses. For charming and affordable accommodation, we recommend S Howard B & B where we stayed, or for a centrally located alternative try Old Abbey House.

    Old Abbey House Abingdon

    Wallingford also has a few places to stay, we recommend The Town Arms, which is centrally located.

    Town Arms Wallingford

    In Wallingford The Town Arms has a comfortable rooms, a restaurant and pub garden

    Wallingford Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Wallingford Bridge Thames Path National Trail

    Day 6 – Where to eat

    Abingdon – there are many shops and supermarkets to buy picnic supplies.

    Clifton Hampden – on the stretch between Abbingdon and Dorchester the only pub is The Barley Mow, and the post office here also stocks some basic food supplies.

    Dorchester – the town has pubs and restaurants but is a bit of a walk away from the Thames Path.

    Wallingford – close to Wallingford, you could stop for coffee or lunch at the Waterfront Cafe at Benson Lock. Wallingford is a charming small town, with many shops and cafes.

    Barley Mow at Clifton Hampden Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Barley Mow at Clifton Hampden Thames Path National Trail

    Day 6 – Transport for this stage

    Abingdon – there is no station at Abingdon, the nearest being at Radley. From London change at Didcot Parkway, for the branch line to Radley, then take the No 35 bus.

    Wallingford – there is no station at Wallingford, the nearest being at Cholsey. From London Paddington take the train to Cholsey, then take the No 136 bus to Wallingford. The No 33 bus runs between Abingdon and Wallingford, with a journey time of 1 hour.

    Options by car – At Abingdon, there are several public car parks to choose from, to leave your car for the day. For this leg we left our car in the car park at Abingdon, took the No 33 bus to Wallingford, walking the Thames path back to Abingdon.

    Wallingford Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Heather at Wallingford – Thames Path National Trail

    Day 7 – Wallingford – Goring – Pangbourne

    This was one of my less favourite stages of the Thames path, as much of it ran through woodland or was out of sight of the river. However the section around Goring was more attractive with views of pretty Edwardian boathouses on the opposite bank.

    Streatley Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Streatley Thames Path National Trail

    Leaving Wallingford, the path was at first quite muddy around Watermead Nature Reserve and we passed some impressive boathouses, owned by Oxford Brookes University.

    Near Wallingford Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Near Wallingford Thames Path National Trail

    We passed under the double arch railway bridge, constructed by celebrated engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel. While undoubtedly a feat of Victorian engineering, it had a rather damp and spooky atmosphere!

    Brunel Railway Bridge Moulsford Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Brunel Railway Bridge Moulsford Thames Path National Trail

    Around Moulsford the path runs briefly away from the river, before arriving at the Beetle and Wedge, a pleasant riverside inn, where we ordered a drink and sat outside overlooking the river. Soon after, look out for the Egyptian House, a modern mansion with colourful Egyptian motifs which felt quite out of keeping with the rural English setting.

    Streatley Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Streatley Thames Path National Trail

    Running alongside the river, the path now brings you past the Swan Inn at Streatley (its Coppa Club bar is a good coffee or lunch stop), on the opposite bank from the town of Goring. An alternative on the Goring side of the bridge, is the busy Pierreponts Cafe.

    Goring was an ancient crossing place of the Thames and marks a change in landscape from the flatter Oxford plain upstream, to the steeper sided valley downstream.

    Goring Lock Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Goring Lock Thames Path National Trail

    Having crossed the river at Goring, the path now continues on the northern bank, past the attractive Goring lock, with its canal boat moorings.

    Thames Path National Trail Pangbourne to Goring Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Thames Path National Trail Pangbourne to Goring

    After a short flat stretch beside the river, the path climbs and unusually runs on the side of a chalk cliff through Hartslock Wood, with glimpses of the Thames below through the trees.

    Pangbourne to Goring - Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Pangbourne to Goring – Thames Path National Trail

    The final stretch into Pangbourne runs away from the river through Whitchurch, before bringing you back to the Victorian iron Whitchurch toll bridge (a small charge for cars but free for pedestrians).

    Day 7 – Distance and timings

    Wallingford to Pangbourne is aprox 11 miles / 17.6 km. This was a comfortable day’s walk but could be broken into 2 shorter legs at Goring. It took us around 6 hrs to walk, including a coffee at Goring and a picnic break at the Beetle and Wedge Riverside pub.

    Day 7 – Where to stay

    If staying in Wallingford, we recommend The Town Arms, which is centrally located.

    The Town Arms Wallingford

    In Wallingford, The Town Arms has comfortable rooms, a restaurant and pub garden.

    In Pangbourne, we recommend the boutique style Elephant Hotel which is in the centre of town.

    Day 7 – Where to eat

    Both Wallingford and Pangbourne are small towns, with a range of shops and cafes.

    On the section between Wallingford and Goring, the Beetle and Wedge is a friendly riverside pub, with outside and inside seating. We didn’t find anywhere to stop between Goring and Pangbourne.

    Beetle and Wedge pub Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Beetle and Wedge pub Thames Path National Trail

    Goring and Streatley – the options closest to the river are the Pierreponts Cafe and the Coppa Club on the other side of the bridge at Streatley. Both of these serve coffees, snacks and lunches, although the Pierreponts Cafe is quite small. So if it seems busy head to the more spacious Coppa Club within The Swan Hotel instead. If you need picnic supplies, there are also shops in Goring.

    Streatley Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Swan Hotel at Streatley Thames Path National Trail

    Day 7 – Transport for this stage

    Wallingford – there is no station, the nearest being at Cholsey. From London Paddington take the train to Cholsey, then the No 136 bus to Wallingford.

    Pangbourne – there is a station, which is on the GWR route from Bristol Parkway to London Paddington, with direct connections to Reading and Maidenhead, both on the Thames Path.

    Pangbourne Station Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Pangbourne Station Thames Path National Trail

    Options by car – For this leg we left our car in the Cattlemarket car park at Wallingford, took the No 136 bus from Wallingford to Cholsey (11 mins), then the train from Cholsey to Pangbourne (20 mins). Then we walked on the Thames path from Pangbourne back to Wallingford.

    Goring Lock Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Goring Lock Thames Path National Trail

    Day 8 – Pangbourne – Reading – Henley

    On leaving the small town of Pangbourne at the striking iron Whitchurch Bridge, the path skirts the river through Pangbourne Meadow, with a glimpse on the opposite bank of Hardwick House. This Tudor House was visited by Elizabeth I and is thought to be the model for ‘Toad Hall’ in Kenneth Grahame’s book The Wind in the Willows.

    At Purley, the path leaves the river bank behind a Marina and returns to the river near Tilehurst Station. Now the route skirts the river through open fields and past the Rowing Club towards Caversham Bridge, which marks the entry into Reading.

    Caversham Bridge - Thames Path Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Caversham Bridge – Thames Path

    The stretch through Reading is surprisingly charming for such a busy town, with views of Fry’s island and Caversham Lock in the centre of the river. We enjoyed a coffee in the Thames Lido, a stylish reinvention of the old riverside Lido where you can watch the swimmers doing their lengths.

    Thames Lido Reading Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Thames Lido Reading

    It’s worth making a short detour here onto Caversham Lock, to cross the weir for views of the river and the old ladies swimming club, now a community hydro-electric facility.

    Caversham Lock Reading - Thames Path Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Caversham Lock Reading – Thames Path

    The path follows the river through King’s Meadow, a community leisure space, passing through woodland near a large Tesco supermarket (toilets, cafe and picnic supplies). Beyond this, the area of Caversham Lakes and Marina can be seen beyond the opposite river bank, until you reach Sonning.

    The old Saxon village has a bridge across the river, with a 17th century water mill (now a theatre) and a few places to eat. At Sonning the Thames Path crosses the road bridge and a further footbridge, to continue on the north bank of the Thames as far as Henley.

    Reading Bridge - Thames Path Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Reading Bridge – Thames Path

    The riverside path meanders on towards Shiplake where there is a station and the path then continues along a lane behind the series of grand houses that face the river. One of the grand mansions that has been split into smaller residences has a narrow gauge railway that can be seen from the lane.

    Returning to the river you’ll now walk through water meadows, until a long wooden horse bridge runs out into the river to Marsh Lock, before returning you to the bank again. The way is now a broad paved path that takes you past the River and Rowing Museum and into Henley itself.

    Henley on Thames is known for its rowing regatta, which takes place in July and is a feature of the English society calendar.

    Henley Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Henley Thames Path National Trail

    Day 8 – Distance and timings

    Pangbourne to Henley is aprox 17 miles / 27 km, so you need to start early, for a longer day’s walk. It took us around 8.5 hrs to walk. You can also break this stage into two shorter stages: Pangbourne to Reading (7 miles / 11 km) and Reading to Henley (10 miles / 16 km).

    Day 8 – Where to stay

    Pangbourne: There is less choice of places to stay than Henley or Reading. We recommend The Elephant Hotel (boutique style) which is in the centre of town.

    Henley: For budget options try The Catherine Wheel (traditional pub) or RIOSHOUSE (contemporary no-reception rooms). For more luxurious options, look at The Relais ( the former historic Red Lion Inn) or Hotel du Vin. All of these are well located in the centre of Henley, close to the many shops and restaurants.

    RIOSHOUSE Hotel Henley on Thames UK

    RIOSHOUSE is a contemporary no-reception style hotel well situated in Henley on Thames

    Reading: This busy town is a less charming place to stay than Pangbourne or Henley. If you decide to break the stage here, we recommend The Market House (budget boutique style) or Ibis Reading Centre (contemporary budget hotel), both of which are close to the station and 10 mins walk from the Thames Path.

    Tilehurst - Thames Path Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Tilehurst – Thames Path

    Day 8 – Where to eat

    Pangbourne – several shops for picnic supplies and a good choice of bars, restaurants and pub options around the town centre.

    Purley – Between Pangbourne and Reading, you’ll pass the Mad Duck Cafe at Purley.

    Reading – near the bridge is the stylish Thames Lido for coffees and lunch, with picnic benches overlooking the river nearby.

    Near Reading – Soon after leaving Reading, the path runs close to a large Tescos where you can buy picnic supplies or eat in their cafe.

    Sonning – the next pub on the Reading to Henley stretch is The Bull Inn at Sonning.

    Henley – the town has numerous excellent pubs and restaurants, as well as shops to pick up picnic supplies, if you are continuing the walk.

    Tilehurst - Thames Path Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Tilehurst – Thames Path

    Day 8 – Transport for this stage

    Pangbourne – there is a station which is on the GWR route from Bristol Parkway to London Paddington, with direct connections to Reading and Maidenhead, both on the Thames Path.

    Reading – there is a station, which is a busy junction on the main London to Bristol line.

    Henley – there is a station, which connects via Twyford, where you can change to the GWR Bristol to London line or the Elizabeth Line.

    Pangbourne Station - Thames Path Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Pangbourne Station – Thames Path

    Read Next

    The next section of the walk is Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Henley to Kingston – Days 9-12

    Thames Path 9-12 Henley to Kingston featured

    More articles about the Thames Path National Trail

    I’ll be publishing more articles in this Thames Path series very soon. In the meantime, if you have questions about our walk on the Thames Path National Trail, feel free to email me at heather(at)heatheronhertravels(dot)com

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Source to Oxford – Days 1-4

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Oxford to Henley – Days 5-8 (this article)

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Henley to Kingston – Days 9-12

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – Kingston to Woolwich – Days 13-15

    Coming Soon – Tips for hiking the Thames Path National Trail

    Resources for hiking the Thames Path National Trail

    Train bookings – to get you to the start and end of this section of the walk, we recommend Trainline for easy rail bookings.

    Book accommodation: to book hotels online and conveniently have all your bookings in once place, we used Booking.com but if you prefer you could also use Expedia.

    Guidebook – we used and recommend the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide – this is the one we used and we liked the easy to follow maps and the fact that it’s just as easy to follow for walking in either direction.

    The Thames Path National Trail website is a useful source of information about the trail as a whole.

    Thames Path National Trail Days 5-8 Photo Album

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    Thames Path 5-8 Pinterest

    This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com

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  • Thames Path National Trail – Henley to Kingston Days 9-12

    Thames Path National Trail – Henley to Kingston Days 9-12


    From Henley to Kingston the Thames Path National Trail offers a blend of rural to urban landscapes, as the river flows steadily towards the outskirts of London. You’ll pass the prosperous riverside towns of Henley and Marlow, known for their rowing traditions and ornate Edwardian boathouses.

    This is the Thames as depicted in 19th century literary classics such as “Three Men in a Boat” and “The Wind in the Willows”. As the railways developed westwards from the 1850s, this stretch of the Thames came within the reach of Londoners for day trips, when regattas and rowing boats were all the rage.

    Thames Path at Marlow Bridge © Heatheronhertravels.com

    This article may contain affiliate links that provide commission on purchases you make at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

    Days 9-12 – Henley to Kingston

    Rather than walking the whole of the Thames Path in one go, we chose to break this long distance trail into sections of one or two days. Walking with my sister, it took us a year to complete, snatching a couple of days walking whenever we could.

    The whole trail takes 15 days, but to make it more manageable I’ve decided to break it into four separate articles, each covering 3-4 days of the Thames Path walk.

    And you can read about our final day here:

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – Kingston to Woolwich – Days 13-15

    This section of four day’s walking could easily be managed over a long weekend. Alternatively you could just pick one of the legs for a day’s walk – our favourites were Day 10 Marlow to Windsor or Day 12 Chertsey to Kingston.

    While we walked from the Source towards London, you can walk any of these stages in either direction.

    Henley Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Henley on the Thames Path National Trail

    Essential planning for Days 9-12 – Henley to Kingston

    If you are walking sections 9-12 of the Thames Trail over a 4 day period, here are the planning essentials.

    Book the train to Henley for the start of the walk – it can be reached on the GWR line or the Elizabeth line from London, changing at Twyford. We recommend Trainline for easy rail bookings.

    Book the train from Kingston at the end of Day 12 – there are direct trains to London Waterloo. We recommend Trainline for easy rail bookings.

    Guidebook – buy the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide – this is the one we used and found it excellent for walking in either direction. While a guidebook is not essential, we enjoyed using this one as it added additional information and context to our walk.

    I’ll be publishing further articles in this Thames Path series very soon. In the meantime, if you have questions about our walk on the Thames Path National Trail, feel free to email me at heather(at)heatheronhertravels(dot)com

    Day 9 – Henley to Marlow

    This is an attractive stretch of the Thames Path, passing pretty villages and scenic riverside spots. However, with Temple foot bridge closed, it required some frustrating detours away from the river, walking along a busy road.

    Before setting off, we recommend checking whether the Temple foot bridge has re-opened and be alert for detour signs.

    Temple Island Henley Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Temple Island Henley Thames Path National Trail

    Leaving Henley behind

    Leaving the attractive town of Henley behind, the Thames Path crosses the bridge to the south bank. Just beyond the bridge you’ll pass Britain’s oldest rowing club, The Leander Club, which is now a hotel.

    A paved path runs through well maintained water meadows beside the river. It’s on these grassy lawns that the marquees will be pitched during the Henley Royal Regatta, which is held each July. The pretty classical pavilion on Temple Island is used as a marker during the famous regatta.

    As the river curves at Remenham, the path continues to hug the bank until you reach Hambledon lock, where races start during the Henley Regatta.

    Remenham Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Remenham on the Thames Path National Trail

    Here it’s possible to cross the river on top of the weir to reach Hambledon Marina. The benches at Hambledon Lock made a pleasant place to stop for our picnic lunch.

    Hambleden Marina Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Hambleden Marina Thames Path National Trail

    Warning – diversions!

    At this point you should be aware that the Temple foot bridge at Temple Lock is closed for survey and repairs. In October 2024 when we visited, the sign said it had been closed since May 2024, so there did not seem to be any urgency to reopen. This leaves you with a couple of detour possibilities:

    Temple Mill Lock Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Temple Mill Lock Thames Path National Trail

    Option 1 (recommended) – south bank via Hurley and Bisham

    Do not cross the Hambledon Weir, but stay on the south bank of the Thames until the village of Aston.

    Here the path turns away from the river along ferry lane, towards the Flower Pot Hotel. It was once used by boatmen manning the ferry that provided a river crossing at this point.

    The path now crosses the fields close to Culham Court, then returns to the river with a view of the 13th century Medmenham Abbey on the opposite bank.

    Continue through a wooded area of riverbank until you reach an area of mobile homes overlooking the river, part of Hurley Riverside Park.

    Thames Path at Hurley Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Thames Path at Hurley

    At Hurley Lock the river divides among a group of small islands. A campsite and summer tearoom are located on one of them, reached by a wooden bridge.

    It’s worth taking the lane into Hurley Village, to look at the Saxon church of St Mary the Virgin. This was originally the chapel of a Benedictine Priory, the remains of which are now private houses.

    Hurley is a good place to stop for lunch as there are a couple of pubs, including The Old Bell, which was the priory’s guest house. A little beyond Hurley, the Thames Path would normally switch to the north bank, over the arched Temple foot bridge.

    Bisham Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Bisham Thames Path National Trail

    However, with this bridge currently closed, you will need to follow the lane to Bisham with its pretty riverside church, then walk along the busy road until you reach the bridge at Marlow.

    Marlow Bridge Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Marlow Bridge Thames Path National Trail

    Option 2 – north bank via Medmenham and Harley Golf course

    As we were walking in the opposite direction from Marlow to Henley, we reached the Temple foot bridge, only to find it was closed. Rather than returning to Marlow and retracing our steps on the south bank, we decided to take a detour to the path.

    Marlow Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Footpath near Marlow on Thames Path National Trail

    This took us around the Harleyford Golf course, where we stopped for coffee. We then followed the road, before rejoining the river at Medmenham.

    Here we found a riverside path along the northern bank for much of the way to Mill End. Then a short walk along the road took us to Hambledon Marina.

    Hambleden Marina Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Hambleden Weir Thames Path National Trail

    At Hambledon we were able to cross the river on the impressive footbridge across the Hambledon Weir and Hambledon Lock. This enabled us to rejoin the Thames Path on the south bank.

    Of course, if you are walking from Henley to Marlow, you’ll need to follow these directions in reverse.

    Henley Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Henley Thames Path National Trail

    Day 9 – Distance and timings

    Henley to Marlow is aprox 8.5 miles / 14 km and took us 5 hours to walk, although this included some detours. As this is one of the shorter stages, you should have time to explore Henley and Marlow, both of which are attractive riverside towns.

    Marlow Bridge Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Morning mist on the river at Marlow Bridge – Thames Path National Trail

    Day 9 – Where to stay

    Henley: For budget options try The Catherine Wheel (traditional pub) or RIOSHOUSE (contemporary no-reception rooms). For more luxurious options, look at The Relais ( the former historic Red Lion Inn) or Hotel du Vin. All of these are well located in the centre of Henley, close to the many shops and restaurants.

    Marlow: There are a few places to stay in Marlow, although not as much choice as Henley. We recommend The Chequers Marlow, for boutique style in the centre of town or the Premier Inn for a budget choice.

    The Chequers Hotel Marlow UK

    The Chequers is a boutique style inn with rooms, located in the centre of Marlow

    Day 9 – Where to eat

    Both Henley and Marlow have a wide range of places to eat in the centre of town, as well as shops to stock up on picnic supplies.

    On the walk between Henley and Marlow, The Flower Pot pub at Aston serves traditional pub food. Perhaps a better place to break for lunch is Hurley, where the Thames path crosses the river on a footbridge.

    At the campsite on Hurley Lock is a tea room that’s open in the summer months. Within the village of Hurley are two pubs that both serve lunch as well as a village shop. The Old Bell at Hurley offers a more upscale menu. Alternatively, The Rising Sun is a traditional pub serving Indian food as well as pies and pub dishes.

    If you are forced, as we were due to the closure of Hurley Bridge, to walk on the north bank of the Thames, you could try Harleyford Golf Club, which serves drinks and snacks to non-members.

    Henley Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Henley on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 9 – Transport for this stage

    Henley has a railway station, which is on a branch line connecting to Twyford. At Twyford you can change to the GWR Bristol to London line or the Elizabeth Line into London. Marlow also has a railway station, which can be reached from London by changing at Maidenhead.

    The number 800 and 850 buses run between Henley and Marlow, so you could park in either town, take the bus and then walk back on the Thames path. For this stage, we parked in the Southfields Car Park (24 hrs) at Henley and took the 850 bus from Henley to Marlow, then walked on the Thames Path back to Henley.

    Day 10 – Marlow – Maidenhead – Windsor

    This was one of the most enjoyable stretches of the Thames, with a series of picturesque riverside towns and villages. A towpath follows the river closely, with a chance to admire the elegant Edwardian mansions and boathouses.

    It was this stretch of the Thames that inspired classics of English Literature like ‘The Wind in the Willows’ and ‘Three men in a boat’.

    Bourne End - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Bourne End – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Leaving Marlow behind

    We were sad to leave the pretty town of Marlow behind, as we skirted behind the church with glimpses down the lane of Marlow weir. The path took us through open water meadows beside the river, to Bourne End, with its small marina and sailing club.

    Cows near Cookham - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Cows near Cookham – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Here we crossed over the steel footbridge to continue on the opposite bank. The herd of cows we passed wallowing in the river, could have been straight out of a Turner painting.

    A stretch of grazing meadow, managed by the National Trust, lead us into the village of Cookham.

    Bourne End - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Bourne End – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Stanley Spencer and Cookham

    This prettiest of villages, with its 12th century church, was the home of the 20th century artist Stanley Spencer, who lived here until his death in 1959.

    Cookham church - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Cookham church – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    He is known for setting his religious and rural paintings in locations around Cookham, using the faces of real people he knew. The small Stanley Spencer Gallery in the heart of the village, is well worth a visit, with changing themed exhibitions of his work.

    Stanley Spencer Gallery Cookham - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Stanley Spencer Gallery Cookham – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Heading out of Cookham, the path runs opposite the stately home of Cliveden, now a luxury hotel. It was the home to the Astor family, who were known for their lavish parties. The house also featured in the Profumo scandal, which rocked the government in the 1960s.

    Cliveden Boathouse - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Cliveden Boathouse – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    The house is out of sight from the riverbank, but the gardens run by the National Trust and their attractive Edwardian boathouses, can be admired from the opposite bank.

    Maidenhead - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Maidenhead – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Arriving in Maidenhead

    Arriving in Maidenhead, we took a break for our picnic lunch at Boulter’s Lock. At this attractive location, a footbridge crosses to Ray Mill Island and over the river to the Taplow side.

    Ray Mill Island Maidenhead - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Ray Mill Island Maidenhead – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    The path follows the road for a short distance to Maidenhead Bridge. We crossed to continue the path on the other side, passing under the Victorian brick railway bridge, expertly engineered by Isambard Kingdom Brunel.

    Ray Mill Island Maidenhead - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Ray Mill Island Maidenhead – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    The riverside path leading down to Bray offered views of the river on one side and a succession of elegant riverfront houses on the other.

    Beyond Bray we passed under the M4 motorway, the roar of traffic slightly spoiling the peaceful atmosphere. Visible on the map but out of sight for walkers was the manmade Dorney Lake, used for rowing practice by nearby Eton College.

    Eaton meadows - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Eaton meadows – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Approaching Windsor

    Beyond Boveney Lock, the path took us under the mainline railway bridge and through the meadows past the exclusive private school of Eton College. By now we could glimpse the views of Windsor Castle rising above the town.

    Boveney Lock - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Boveney Lock – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    It was originally built as a fortress by William the Conquerer and is one of the main residences of the English Royal Family. The famous chapel has been a location for many royal marriages. Crossing the bridge took us into the historic town of Windsor, the end of this day’s walk.

    Windsor Bridge - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Windsor Bridge – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 10 – Distance and timings

    Marlow to Windsor is aprox 13.5 miles / 21.7 km and took us 7 hours to walk, including lunch and rest stops as well as a visit to the Stanley Spencer Gallery.

    If you want to plan in a rest day, Windsor Castle is a major heritage attraction and well worth a visit, but you’d need at least half a day to do it justice.

    Cliveden - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Cliveden – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 10 – Where to stay

    Marlow: There are a few places to stay in Marlow. We recommend The Chequers Marlow, for boutique style in the centre of town or the Premier Inn for a budget choice.

    Windsor: There are a number of hotels and guest houses in Windsor to suit every budget. As prices vary widely with demand, we suggest comparing all Windsor hotels for your dates. One good mid range option is the Holiday Inn Express.

    Windsor Bridge - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Windsor Bridge – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 10 – Where to eat

    Both Marlow and Windsor have a wide range of places to eat, as well as shops to stock up on picnic supplies. On the walk you can find places to eat at:

    Maidenhead – At Boulter’s Lock cross the footbridge onto Ray Mill Island, which is a pleasant place for a picnic, with a seasonal cafe. You could also get lunch or coffee at the attractive Boathouse pub. A little further, Jenner’s Riverside Cafe is in the Riverside park, or the Thames Riviera Hotel is by Maidenhead bridge.

    Cookham – Try the tea and cake at the Teapot tea shop, or a pub lunch at The Ferry or The Crown pubs.

    Tearoom at Cookham - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Tearoom at Cookham – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 10 – Transport for this stage

    Marlow has a railway station, which can be reached from London by changing at Maidenhead. Windsor also has a railway station, which can be reached on a direct train from London Waterloo, or via the Elizabeth line with a change at Slough.

    If you need to travel between Marlow and Windsor, the time by road is 20-25 minutes. However there are no direct bus connections and the route by train takes around 1 hour, requiring 2 changes, due to each station being on different branch lines.

    Because we had 2 cars, we left one car at each end of the trail and drove back to recover the second car at the end of the day.

    Maidenhead - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Maidenhead – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 11 – Windsor – Staines – Chertsey Bridge

    Although it has some attractive stretches around Runnymede, this part of the Thames starts to feel quite developed, as you enter the orbit of the M25 motorway that encircles London. This was not one of our favourite stretches, although it could have just been that the grey skies and drizzle dampened our enthusiasm!

    The path out of Windsor follows a loop in the river, and beyond Victoria Bridge offers fine views of Windsor Great Park and castle on the opposite bank. At Old Windsor there’s a lock and the path follows a canal that cuts off the loop in the river.

    Old Windsor lock- Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Old Windsor lock- Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Runnymede Meadow

    Between Windsor and Staines lies the Runnymede meadow, bounded on one side by the wooded slopes of Cooper’s Hill. This is the location of an historic meeting in 1215, between King John and his barons.

    It’s considered a turning point in English history, since the king was forced to accept limits on his powers, enshrined in a document known as the ‘Magna Carta’.

    Sculptures at Runnymeade - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Sculptures at Runnymede – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Runnymede Meadow is managed by the National Trust, with some outdoor sculptures and a tea room near the road.

    Tearoom at Runnymeade - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Tearoom at Runnymede – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Staines

    The town of Staines has a less affluent feel compared to the elegant riverside towns of Marlow, Henley and Windsor upstream. It’s close to Heathrow Airport and surrounded by reservoirs that supply London with drinking water, although you won’t necessarily see them from the Thames Path.

    Staines Bridge - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Staines Bridge – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    The riverside at Staines seems to have a strong affinity with swans, and we saw several swan related sculptures in the riverside park. There’s also a stone marker to show that this was the furthest point of the river over which the city of London had any jurisdiction.

    The Swanmaster by Diana Thomson at Staines - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    The Swanmaster by Diana Thomson at Staines – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Beyond Staines, the landscape becomes decidedly suburban, with modern houses lining the banks. The path passes the village of Laleham and under the M3 Motorway bridge, with its accompanying roar of traffic.

    Soon after Chertsey weir you’ll arrive at Chertsey Bridge, although the town and station is around 20 minutes walk from the river.

    Chertsey Bridge - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Chertsey Bridge – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 11 – Distance and timings

    Windsor to Chertsey Bridge is aprox 11.5 miles / 18.4 km and took us 6.5 hours to walk, including lunch and rest stops.

    Chertsey - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Chertsey – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 11 – Where to stay

    Windsor: There are a number of hotels and guest houses in Windsor to suit every budget. As prices vary widely with demand, we suggest comparing all Windsor hotels for your dates. One good mid range option is the Holiday Inn Express.

    Chertsey Bridge: The best option by Chertsey Bridge is The Bridge Hotel, a stylish and comfortable riverside pub. Alternatively, try the Crown Hotel or Old Swan Hotel, which are 20 minutes walk from the river in Chertsey town.

    Penton Hook Lock - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Penton Hook Lock – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 11 – Where to eat

    Windsor has a wide range of places to eat, as well as shops to stock up on picnic supplies. At Chertsey there are a couple of pubs near the bridge, but the nearest convenience store is a 10 minute walk from the river.

    On this stretch, look out for:

    Runnymede – The Magna Carta Tea Room is run by the National Trust. A little further on, the Runnymede Pleasure Ground is a good place for a picnic, with benches overlooking the river and there’s a cafe there too.

    Bell Weir Lock – The impressive Thames Hotel and Spa has a restaurant with terrace overlooking the river.

    Staines – there are several coffee shops, pubs and restaurants close to the river. We enjoyed a coffee at Nostrano Lounge, within the pedestrianised shopping area.

    Bell Weir Lock - Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail Photo_ © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Bell Weir Lock – Hiking on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 11 – Transport for this stage

    Windsor has a railway station, which can be reached on a direct train from London Waterloo, or via the Elizabeth line with a change at Slough.

    Chertsey also has a railway station, although it is 30 minutes walk from Chertsey Bridge where the stage ends.

    If you need to travel between Windsor and Chertsey, the time by road is 20-25 minutes. However there are no direct bus connections and the route by train takes around 1 hour, requiring a change at Staines.

    Because we had 2 cars, we left one car at each end of the trail and drove back to recover the second car at the end of the day. At Chertsey Bridge, there is a small free car park right by the bridge.

    Day 12 – Chertsey to Kingston

    This is one of the prettiest stretches of the Thames, a blend of suburban and countryside, before the scenery starts to become more built up at Kingston. At Shepperton several branches of the river converge, with a seasonal ferry to take you from one bank to the next.

    Nauticalia Ferry at Shepperton Lock - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Nauticalia Ferry at Shepperton Lock – Thames Path National Trail

    Between the tree lined banks, is the D’Oyly Carte Island, once the home to the manager of the D’Oyly Carte Opera Company, where you can take tea by the river surrounded by willows.

    I can remember performing in a school performance of the Gilbert and Sullivan operetta, The Mikado which was first staged by the D’Oyly Carte Company. “On a tree by the river a little tom tit sang willow, tit willow, tit willow” – perhaps inspired by this very location.

    D'Oyly Carte Island at Shepperton - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    D’Oyly Carte Island at Shepperton – Thames Path National Trail

    Passing the modern Walton Bridge brings you to the old ferry point of Walton Wharf with its two riverside pubs. The straight ‘Walton mile’ of river was used for Regattas in the late 19th century.

    At Sunbury Lock a large island conceals the opposite bank and there is a seasonal ferry. Large reservoirs are so well concealed by high banks beside the towpath that you’ve really no idea that they are there.

    Sunbury Lock - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Sunbury Lock – Thames Path National Trail

    Hampton

    At Hampton, a pretty view across the river opens up, towards the church tower and the domed “Garrick’s Temple”. It was built for the Shakespearean 18th century actor Richard Garrick, who lived in the house behind it.

    Garrick's Temple Hampton - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Garrick’s Temple Hampton – Thames Path National Trail

    By Molesey Lock you’ll pass rowing club boat houses and it’s time to cross the river at Hampton Court Bridge, leading to the Tudor palace set in its park.

    There’s just a glimpse of Hampton Court Palace through ornate gilded gates, before the towpath follows the bend in the river alongside the palace’s park, to Kingston Bridge, where this stage ends.

    Gates of Hampton Court - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Gates of Hampton Court – Thames Path National Trail

    Day 12 – Distance and timings

    Chertsey to Kingston is aprox 11 miles / 17.7 km. Allow around 5 hours plus stopping time. If you want to stop at Hampton Court Palace, you could afterwards take the bus to save time, rather than walk to Kingston. Hampton Court Palace is a major attraction that will easily take several hours to see properly.

    Day 12 – Where to stay

    The Bridge Hotel Thames Path Chertsey
    The White Hart Hotel Thames Path

    The White Hart Hotel is on the Hampton Wick side of Kingston Bridge, or walk into Kingston Town for other budget hotel options

    Day 12 – Where to eat

    There are numerous attractive stops for food and drink along this stretch of the river including:

    Shepperton LockThe Ferry Coffee Shop at the ferry crossing on the north bank. On the south bank is D’Oyly’s, a cafe with outdoor seating overlooking the river, on the D’Oyly Carte Island which is accessed by a foot bridge.

    Walton on Thames – at Walton Wharf, The Anglers and The Swan are busy pubs serving food, with decks overlooking the river. You can also find shops for picnic provisions, including a Sainsbury’s supermarket, in Walton on Thames village.

    Riverside Pubs at Walton Wharf Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Riverside Pubs at Walton Wharf Thames Path National Trail

    Hampton Court – there are numerous pubs and restaurants on the south bank near the bridge and the Mezzet Box is a small outdoor cafe right by the river, tucked next to the bridge.

    Kingston – There are numerous restaurants and cafes on the south bank of the river, when you cross Kingston Bridge and plenty of shops, including a Waitrose supermarket, in Kingston Town Centre.

    Day 12 – Transport for this stage

    There is a train station at Chertsey, but it’s quite awkward to get to, so we started our walk at Shepperton Lock instead. On this part of the walk it’s handy to look at the network map for South West Railway, to easily work out the train connections.

    We took the train to Shepperton station and walked 30 mins to Shepperton Lock, where the Nauticalia pedestrian ferry takes you across the river from the north to the south bank. The ferry runs daily in summer and weekends in winter, check the timetable here.

    An alternative station on this leg of the walk is at Hampton Court Palace. On arrival at Kingston Bridge the nearest stations are Hampton Wick or Kingston. If you are stuck at any point, local buses are often the most direct way to get around. We recommend the TFL Go app to plan bus and train routes in and around London.

    More articles about the Thames Path National Trail

    I’ll be publishing more articles in this Thames Path series very soon. In the meantime, if you have questions about our walk on the Thames Path National Trail, feel free to email me at heather(at)heatheronhertravels(dot)com

    Resources for hiking the Thames Path National Trail

    Train bookings – to get you to the start and end of this section of the walk, we recommend Trainline for easy rail bookings.

    Book accommodation: to book hotels online and conveniently have all your bookings in once place, we used Booking.com but if you prefer you could also use Expedia.

    Guidebook – we used and recommend the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide – this is the one we used and we liked the easy to follow maps and the fact that it’s just as easy to follow for walking in either direction.

    The Thames Path National Trail website is a useful source of information about the trail as a whole.

    Thames Path 9-12 Photo Album

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  • Thames Path National Trail – Kingston to Woolwich Days 13-15

    Thames Path National Trail – Kingston to Woolwich Days 13-15


    The final section of our hike on the Thames Path National Trail brought us into London and the end of our 15 day walk. Over these last three days, the trail took us through the leafy suburbs of Richmond and Kew, past the historic landmarks of central London, ending in the old industrial area of London’s Docklands at Woolwich.

    Richmond on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com

    This article may contain affiliate links that provide commission on purchases you make at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

    Days 13-15 – Kingston to Woolwich

    I walked the Thames Path National Trail in stages with my sister, usually a couple of days at a time. While the whole trail takes 15 days if you walk it consecutively, in the end it took us around a year to complete.

    As you’ll see from the photos, Day 13 of the walk was done in the sunny days of June, but we did not complete Days 14 and 15 until the somewhat more chilly days of December!

    I’ve written about the trail in four separate articles, each covering 3-4 days of the Thames Path walk, which you could do in a long weekend.You’re reading the last of the four articles describing Days 13-15 on the London section of our walk.

    If you haven’t already done so, you can read about the previous walks below:

    This section of three day’s walking could easily be managed over a long weekend. Alternatively you could just pick one of the legs for a day’s walk. Our direction of travel was from the Thames source in Gloucestershire towards London, but you can walk any of these stages in either direction.

    Views towards Richmond Hill - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Views towards Richmond Hill – Thames Path National Trail

    Essential planning for Days 13-15 – Kingston to Woolwich

    If you are walking sections 13-15 of the Thames Trail over a 3 day period, here are the planning essentials.

    Transport – as these walks are within London, there are numerous transport options by bus, underground or overground train to get to the start or end of each day’s walk. You can tap on and off all London transport using a debit card or an Oyster card. If arriving from outside London, we recommend Trainline for easy rail bookings.

    Book accommodation: For the night before starting the walk at Kingston (if required) – White Hart Hotel | Day 13 Putney – mk hotel London | Day 14 Tower Bridge – The Tower Hotel | Day 15 Woolwich – Ibis Hotel in Greenwich (if required).

    Because of the excellent transport links in London, you could also stay anywhere close to the river and return to the same hotel each evening – check options for all hotels in London. A well located hotel to stay for all legs of this 3 day walk is The Tower Hotel at Tower Bridge.

    Guidebook – buy the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide – this is the one we used and found it excellent for walking in either direction. While a guidebook is not essential, we enjoyed using this one as it added useful context to our walk.

    Syon House - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Syon House – Thames Path National Trail

    Day 13 – Kingston to Putney

    From Kingston bridge we noticed a much more built up riverside landscape than we had seen on earlier sections of the walk. Attractive 18th and 19th century riverfront houses were now backed with large apartment blocks and high rise buildings.

    Kingston itself is a busy shopping town, coming as a bit of a shock after the previous tranquil stretches of river bank. But once you cross Kingston Bridge to the southern bank, the town’s bustle is left behind and you reach a greener part of the river.

    Approaching Kingston - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Approaching Kingston – Thames Path National Trail

    At Teddington Lock, we crossed the iron bridge to the northern bank, for a refreshment stop at the Flying Cloud Cafe, before returning again to continue on the path.

    The towpath is bordered by Ham Lands nature reserve which continues to the 17th century mansion of Ham House (National Trust). It’s worth a short detour from the river to admire the house’s decorative red brick frontage.

    Teddington Lock - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Heather at Teddington Lock – Thames Path National Trail

    Day 13 – Approaching Richmond

    Soon the river bends, bringing Richmond Hill into view, passing Petersham meadows and the boathouses on the path up to Richmond Bridge. On a sunny day, the riverside at Richmond is buzzing and it’s become rather a trendy spot (I know it well having grown up here!)

    Approaching Richmond Bridge - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Approaching Richmond Bridge – Thames Path National Trail

    Things calm once you pass the railway bridge at Richmond weir and follow a surprisingly secluded and shady stretch past Old Deer Park and then Kew Gardens. On the opposite bank is a view of Syon House and the wharf at Isleworth, making a pretty scene backed by the 15th century church tower.

    Isleworth Wharf - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Isleworth Wharf – Thames Path National Trail

    Day 13 – Kew Bridge

    At Kew Bridge we took a brief break to watch the cricketers on Kew Green before continuing along a developed stretch of the river to Mortlake, famous in the past for its breweries. Just after Chiswick Bridge, we ordered a coffee at the White Hart in Mortlake, an excellent riverside pub with a terrace overlooking the river.

    Kew with views of Brentford - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Kew with views of Brentford – Thames Path National Trail

    The iron spans of Barnes Railway bridge come into sight and the river curves back on itself, passing the Barnes wetland centre that was created from the old Barn Elms reservoir.

    Hammersmith Bridge - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Hammersmith Bridge – Thames Path National Trail

    Hammersmith Bridge, with its imposing Victorian pillars and urban skyline in the background, is a sign that you have reached London proper.

    Boat Houses at Putney - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Boat Houses at Putney – Thames Path National Trail

    Approaching Putney Bridge, look out for the row of boathouses, belonging to all the London schools who launch their rowing boats from this public slipway.

    Putney Bridge - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Putney Bridge – Thames Path National Trail

    Day 13 – Distance and timings

    Kingston to Putney is aprox 13 miles/20.9 km. Allow around 6 hours plus stopping time. On this stretch, you’ll pass the stately home of Ham House (National Trust) and Kew Gardens, both of which are well worth a visit.

    If you want to visit either of these, you could break this day’s walk into two, with an overnight stay in Richmond or Kew. Richmond is also worth a look around, with its Terrace Gardens, scenic village green and views from Richmond Hill.

    Views from Richmond Hill - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Views from Richmond Hill – Thames Path National Trail

    Day 13 – Where to stay

    The White Hart Hotel Thames Path
    mk hotel London Thames Path

    Putney – mk hotel london is a good budget option near the river with no frills decor

    NOX Richmond Thames Path

    Richmond – NOX Richmond is a contemporary style aparthotel with compact rooms

    Coach & Horses Thames Path

    Day 13 – Where to eat

    On this stretch of the river there are numerous places to stop to eat and drink.

    Kingston – Stock up on picnic supplies at the Waitrose supermarket. On leaving Kingston Bridge there’s a small park cafe at Canbury Park and the busy Boater’s Inn by the river.

    Canbury Gardens near Kingston - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Canbury Gardens near Kingston – Thames Path National Trail

    Teddington – Cross on a footbridge at Teddington Lock to reach the busy Angler’s Pub, smaller Tide End Cottage Pub, or colourful Flying Cloud Cafe.

    Petersham – Approaching Richmond, the Petersham Nursery cafe is a delightful place to stop for a coffee or light lunch in their greenhouses.

    Richmond – There’s Eileen’s small kiosk cafe in the Buccleuch Gardens and the Tide Tables Cafe with large seating area right under Richmond Bridge. For a riverside pub, stop at the White Cross or the smaller White Swan on Old Palace Lane.

    Kew – At Kew Bridge head to Kew Green where there’s The Willow cafe and The Cricketer’s Pub.

    White Hart at Mortlake - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    White Hart at Mortlake – Thames Path National Trail

    Mortlake – there are several cafes and restaurants in Mortlake but we recommend the White Hart Pub overlooking the river.

    Hammersmith – while there’s not much on the Barnes side of the river, you could cross Hammersmith bridge to the north side where there are a number of riverside pubs.

    Putney – close to Putney Bridge by St Mary’s Church, are numerous pubs and cafes. There are supermarkets on Putney High Street.

    Day 13 – Transport for this stage

    For Kingston the nearest station to the river is at Hampton Wick, a 10 mins walk from Kingston Bridge. Alternatively Kingston station is in Kingston town centre. Both can be accessed from London Waterloo but require a change, so check the network map for South West Railway, to work out the train connections.

    Alternative stations on this leg of the walk are at Richmond, Kew and Mortlake. On arrival in Putney, there are 2 separate stations for the Underground and Overground train networks. Local buses are also a good way to get around and we recommend the TFL Go app to plan bus and train routes in and around London.

    Teddington Lock - Thames Path National Trail Photo Heatheronhertravels.com
    Teddington Lock – Thames Path National Trail

    Day 14 – Putney to Tower Bridge

    At Putney Bridge the transition from the leafy suburbs to London life becomes ever more obvious. Staying on the south of the river through Wandsworth, the route passes through Wandsworth Park and Battersea Park, both well used by local families, joggers and dog walkers.

    Wandsworth - Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Wandsworth – Thames Path National Trail

    Between the two parks is a stretch lined by modern buildings. The only interesting landmark here is the pretty St Mary’s church with its classical proportions and spire.

    St Mary's Church Wandsworth - Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    St Mary’s Church Wandsworth – Thames Path National Trail

    Day 14 – Battersea Power Station

    Just beyond Battersea Park is Battersea Power station, now converted into an upscale attraction for fashion shopping and dining. The riverside frontage has been attractively landscaped, with a Christmas ice rink in full swing when we were there.

    Battersea Power Station - Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Battersea Power Station – Thames Path National Trail

    We popped inside for a coffee and a quick look around the swanky shops, vowing to come back later for a day’s shopping when we had more time (and money!)

    Battersea Power Station - Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Battersea Power Station – Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com

    Just beyond the power station, at Vauxhall Bridge, the path briefly moves away from the river and follows the road, before rejoining by Lambeth Palace.

    This beautiful Tudor brick building is the seat of the Archbishop of Canterbury and only open for pre-booked guided tours, although there is a garden museum in the church next to it.

    Lambeth Palace on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Lambeth Palace on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 14 – The South Bank

    From here, we skirted the wall covered with hearts that has been painted to remember those who died during the Covid pandemic.

    Covid Memorial South Bank - Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Covid Memorial South Bank – Thames Path National Trail

    On the opposite bank are the Houses of Parliament and Westminster. Very soon we were wading through tourists all trying to take the perfect London selfie, with Big Ben as their backdrop.

    Westminster on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Westminster on the Thames Path National Trail

    This section of the South Bank is a particularly attractive and busy one. There are numerous London landmarks such as the OXO Building, Tate Modern and Shakespeare’s Globe, any of which could demand a few hours to do them justice.

    South Bank on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    South Bank on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 14 – Southwark

    Beyond Southwark Bridge, we passed the Golden Hinde replica Tudor sailing ship and the beautiful Southward Cathedral, where we ate our picnic on the bench in their courtyard.

    Southwark Cathedral on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Southwark Cathedral on the Thames Path National Trail

    Now the ultimate London landmarks of the Tower of London and Tower Bridge came into view with more crowds of tourists, which finally thinned out once we were past Tower Bridge.

    Southwark on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Southwark on the Thames Path National Trail

    By this point, we really felt that we’d seen the “Greatest Hits” of London, all in one easy day’s walk along the Thames, albeit sharing the experience with thousands of other London tourists!

    Tower Bridge on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Tower Bridge on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 14 – Distance and timings

    Putney to Tower Bridge is aprox 13.5 miles/21.7 km. It took us around 5.5 hours including stopping time, including a coffee at Battersea Power station and picnic breaks at the Festival Hall and Southwark cathedral.

    South Bank on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    South Bank on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 14 – Where to stay

    Because the rail and bus links are so comprehensive, you could stay almost anywhere in London. Since this part of the walk passes so many popular landmarks, hotels closer to the river will generally be more expensive than those further away.

    We recommend searching for hotels in London, and using the map to narrow down your search for the best locations and deals.

    If you want to stay near Tower Bridge at the end of this day’s walk, The Tower Hotel is a good option

    mk hotel London Thames Path

    Putney – mk hotel london is a good budget option near the river with no frills decor

    The Tower Hotel, Tower Bridge London

    Tower Bridge – The Tower Hotel is a good mid-range option, overlooking Tower Bridge

    Day 14 – Where to eat

    As this part of the Thames Path is close to some of London’s hottest tourist spots, anywhere near the river tends to be expensive. To find shops selling sandwiches and snacks at reasonable prices, you may need to move a little away from the river.

    Putney – Try the Putney Pantry cafe at the church or any of the many places on Putney High Street and near the bridge.

    Wandsworth – there’s a cluster of pubs and cafes close to the bridge.

    Battersea – around the Battersea Power Station and inside the complex are numerous nice cafes and restaurants, as well as an M&S food hall for picnic supplies.

    Vauxhall – around Vauxhall bridge are numerous pub and restaurant options.

    Waterloo – the area around the London Eye is packed with tourists and expensive food stalls catering for them. For something quieter, retreat into the Royal Festival Hall cafe or make a short detour to Waterloo Station where there are numerous food shops.

    Wandsworth - Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Wandsworth – Thames Path National Trail

    Gabriel’s Wharf – between Waterloo and Blackfriars Bridges is an area of cafes and bars near the river.

    Southwark – a pleasant courtyard cafe is to be found at Southwark Cathedral. Nearby is foodie heaven at Borough Market with numerous food stalls and restaurants.

    Between London Bridge and Tower Bridge – Hay’s Galleria has a good selection of cafes and restaurants in an attractive covered courtyard.

    Wandsworth - Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Wandsworth – Thames Path National Trail

    Day 14 – Transport for this stage

    There’s rarely a problem getting around in London, due to the extensive network of underground and overground trains, bus routes and the increasingly popular Uber Boat by Thames Clipper service. We recommend the TFL Go app to plan bus and train routes in and around London.

    At Putney, there are 2 separate stations for the Underground and Overground train networks. Tower Bridge is close to Tower Hill station on the north side of the river, or London Bridge station on the south side.

    There are a number of other underground and overground train stations close to the river on both banks. Both Putney and Tower Bridge are connected by the Uber Boat river service as well as by the underground train line.

    South Bank on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    South Bank on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 15 – Tower Bridge to Woolwich

    Because the transport network is so good in London, we decided to tack a little bit on to the previous day’s walk, continuing past Tower Bridge to Canary Wharf. Having fought through the tourists around Tower bridge, we were amazed to find that on the Bermondsey side of the bridge, the crowds melted away.

    Bermondsey on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Bermondsey on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 15 – The London Docklands

    While the section of the Thames path through Bermondsey and Rotherhithe is not the prettiest, it does have an interesting industrial heritage. We passed numerous old warehouses, now converted into apartments, the names of each wharf telling us what goods were landed there.

    Bermondsey on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Bermondsey on the Thames Path National Trail

    This area of the London Docklands was heavily bombed in the war and the formerly thriving wharfs fell into decline by the 1960s. More recently the docklands has been redeveloped for apartments and offices, with the glass towers of Canary Wharf springing up in the 1980s.

    Bermondsey on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Bermondsey on the Thames Path National Trail

    At the Double Tree by Hilton, we walked through the hotel’s reception to find the ferry pier and made a short ferry hop across the Thames to the glittering financial centre of Canary Wharf.

    It was from here we continued the following day, walking a short but unremarkable stretch through the Isle of Dogs on the north bank, until we crossed to the south bank again via the Greenwich foot tunnel.

    Greenwich foot tunnel on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Greenwich foot tunnel on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 15 – Greenwich

    Walking under the Thames was a surprisingly pleasant experience, with a lift or stairs to take you down, then a well lit, dry and relatively short walk to emerge in Greenwich by the Cutty Sark. The heritage attractions, especially the Royal Museums Greenwich deserve a full day here, to explore the Old Royal Naval College, Queen’s House, National Maritime Museum and Royal Observatory.

    Greenwich University on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Greenwich University on the Thames Path National Trail

    While we didn’t have time (and had seen much of it before) we did have a coffee in the pleasant surroundings of the Old Brewery, next to the visitor centre.

    On leaving the Old Royal Naval College behind, we quickly felt the legacy of this area’s past industrialisation. Less of the smart warehouse conversions and more machinery plants and waste ground waiting to be developed.

    Rotherhithe on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Rotherhithe on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 15 – The O2

    On the North Greenwich peninsula, where the Thames loops back on itself, the dome of the O2 rises like a space age spider. Built in 2000 as the Millennium Dome, the O2 now houses a concert arena and shopping centre.

    It was busy with shoppers when we stopped there, but we found a bench inside to have our picnic out of the rain. From here the IFS Cloud cable car runs across the river to the Excel conference centre, on a fine day (which it was not!) giving views over the Thames.

    Thames Barrier on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Thames Barrier on the Thames Path National Trail

    The Thames Barrier now came into sight, with a series of old wharfs to pass before we got there. This stunning piece of engineering was completed in 1982 and can be closed off when required to protect London from tidal surges and flooding.

    We did not find any information centre or cafe open, but there’s a viewing bank on the far side, with a pleasant grassy picnic area.

    Thames Barrier on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Thames Barrier on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 15 – The path ends at Woolwich

    The Thames Barrier was originally the end of the Thames Path National Trail, but in order to connect it with coastal footpaths, it’s now been extended a further half an hour’s walk to Woolwich.

    We duly walked a little further, with views of the Woolwich car ferry coming and going and reached the entrance to the Woolwich foot tunnel and the Royal Arsenal Heritage site beyond.

    Woolwich on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Woolwich on the Thames Path National Trail

    As the name suggests, Woolwich Arsenal was, from the 17th century, London’s main site for the manufacture of munitions. The old brick factory buildings have been nicely restored, but we didn’t have too much time to linger.

    Before long a Thames Clipper boat arrived at the pier and we hopped on board for the journey back to Waterloo station.

    Woolwich on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Woolwich on the Thames Path National Trail

    Day 15 – London from the river

    If I’m honest, this final stretch of the Thames Path from Tower Bridge to Woolwich, was not as attractive as the previous stretch through central London, not helped by the grey and drizzly December weather.

    However, the return journey from the comfort of the river boat, past all those same London landmarks was a real highlight. The bustle and crowds of the river bank seemed to melt away in the open space and calm of the river.

    Tower Bridge on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Tower Bridge on the Thames Path National Trail

    In the past, the Thames was the main highway running through the city. So it was a great way to end our 15 day walk, seeing the historic sights of The Tower of London, Tower Bridge and Westminster from the river’s perspective.

    Day 15 – Distance and timings

    Tower Bridge to Woolwich is aprox 12 miles/19 km. It took us around 5.5 hours including stopping time, with a coffee at Greenwich and picnic stop at the O2.

    Canary Wharf opposite Greenwich Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Canary Wharf opposite Greenwich Thames Path National Trail

    Day 15 – Where to stay

    Because the rail and bus links are so comprehensive, you could stay almost anywhere in London. We recommend searching for hotels in London, and using the map to narrow down your search for the best locations and deals.

    There are not many accommodation options around Woolwich at the end of the walk, so we recommend staying at the Ibis Hotel in Greenwich instead, where there are plenty of shops and restaurants.

    Alternatively book a more centrally located hotel like The Tower Hotel at Tower Bridge, that you can return to every night using public transport.

    The Tower Hotel, Tower Bridge London

    Tower Bridge – The Tower Hotel is a good mid-range option, overlooking Tower Bridge

    Ibis Hotel London Greenwich

    Day 15 – Where to eat

    Closer to Tower Bridge, there are places to eat at every turn. But the nearer you get to Woolwich, the scarcer these become, although there’s a succession of historic riverside pubs.

    Tower Bridge (south bank)- there are quite a few smart restaurants by the river, but for something less expensive wait until you reach Bermondsey.

    Bermondsey to Rotherhithe – On this stretch you’ll find historic pubs like The Angel, The Mayflower and Salt Quay overlooking the river. There’s not much else until you reach the Doubletree by Hilton Hotel opposite Canary Wharf.

    Rotherhithe on the Thames Path National Trail © Heatheronhertravels.com
    Rotherhithe on the Thames Path National Trail

    Canary Wharf – there are numerous cafes, shops and takeaway options around the station.

    Greenwich – there are plenty of cafes around Greenwich market, but a nice place to stop is The Old Brewery, next to the Old Royal Naval College Visitor Centre. A nice pub stop in summer would be the Trafalgar Tavern overlooking the river.

    North Greenwich / O2 – there are numerous cafe, food and shopping options in and around the O2 centre.

    Woolwich – between the O2 and Woolwich is the Anchor and Hope riverside pub, but a nice final coffee stop is the Visitor’s Book Cafe in Woolwich Works, right by the Uber Boat Jetty at the end of the Thames Path Route.

    Day 15 – Transport for this stage

    Tower Bridge is close to Tower Hill station on the north side of the river, or London Bridge station on the south side. Woolwich is connected by the Elizabeth Line and DLR (Docklands Light Railway). Along the river there are a number of other train stations.

    Tower Bridge and Woolwich are also connected by the Uber Boat by Thames Clipper river ferry service.

    We recommend the TFL Go app to plan bus and train routes around London.

    Read Next

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Source to Oxford – Days 1-4

    Thames Path National Trail Days 1-4 Kemble to Oxford © Heatheronhertravels.com

    More articles about the Thames Path National Trail

    Here are all the articles published about Thames Path National Trail.

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Source to Oxford – Days 1-4

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Oxford to Henley – Days 5-8

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – from Henley to Kingston – Days 9-12

    Hiking the Thames Path National Trail – Kingston to Woolwich – Days 13-15 (this article)

    Coming Soon – Tips for hiking the Thames Path National Trail

    Resources for hiking the Thames Path National Trail

    Train bookings – to get you to the start and end of this section of the walk, we recommend Trainline for easy rail bookings.

    Book accommodation: to book hotels online and conveniently have all your bookings in once place, we used Booking.com but if you prefer you could also use Expedia.

    Guidebook – we used and recommend the Trailblazer Thames Path Guide – this is the one we used and we liked the easy to follow maps and the fact that it’s just as easy to follow for walking in either direction.

    The Thames Path National Trail website is a useful source of information about the trail as a whole.

    Thames Path 13-15 Photo Album

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    This article is originally published at Heatheronhertravels.com

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