Hey everyone! My Living Abroad series, after a long hiatus, is back. Today, I’m chatting with Jennifer, an American teacher and blogger living in Romania.
Jennifer, a serial expat, has spent the past 11 years living and working on four continents, but she now calls Bucharest home. With its gorgeous countryside, low cost of living, and hearty food, she makes Romania seem like a pretty dreamy place to live. I hope you enjoy reading about her life there!
Jennifer’s background:
My name is Jennifer Stevens and I’m originally from a small town near Tampa, Florida. I’ve been an expat for the last 11 years, living in South Korea, Colombia, China, and now Romania. My husband Luke and I both work at the American International School of Bucharest and live in the center of town with our Shanghai street dog, Charlie.
On moving to Romania: Admittedly, I didn’t know much about Romania when my husband and I were offered teaching positions here. But we were keen to explore Europe and knew Eastern Europe would be a more affordable way to do this. Plus, when we Googled Romania, pictures of snow-capped mountains and fairytale castles filled the computer screen!
On making friends with other expats in Romania: To be honest, most of my friends are fellow teachers from school. Romania doesn’t have the same expat scene as other places I’ve lived like in Shanghai, but there is a chapter of InterNations here in Bucharest, and you can find some gatherings on Meetup.com. To make local friends, I’ve found success by talking to fellow dog owners at the parks, and taking fitness classes at gyms (that is, when they were still open).
On living in Romania during Covid-19: It’s had its ups and downs. We’ve been lucky to work at a school that has prioritized the health of its teachers and students, but teaching online has been extremely difficult. It’s now been a full year of Zoom instruction and we’re all completely burned out. Currently, Europe is in its third wave, and the new variants have hit Romania pretty hard. This means strict curfews and lockdowns in some areas (where you have to have a declaration form to leave the house). It also means that schools have to remain closed until cases get down to 6/1,000. Right now, I believe numbers are closer to 9/1,000 where my school is located.
It’s been hard not being able to go home, but Luke and I have a lot of gratitude for our situation. Romania is a beautiful country with plenty of cabin escapes in nearby mountain ranges, and the WIFI is strong. So, while we feel trapped and homesick at times, nature and the ability to quickly connect is a huge comfort.
On Romanian food: Typical Romanian food is heavy and pork-forward. I love the soups here, especially the “sour” variety, which uses fermented barley or wheat bran (borș) to get its flavor. I also love the roasted eggplant dip (salata de vinete), and the summer produce is second-to-none!
A typical Romanian meal is especially perfect on a cold winter day: pork-stuffed cabbage rolls (sarmale), polenta (mămăligă) topped with a dollop of sour cream, some type of sour soup (ciorbă), possibly a side of grilled sausage (mici), and fried cheese doughnuts (papanasi) served with blueberry jam and sweet sour cream.
On learning Romanian: The Romanian language is beautiful, and apparently the closest living language to Vulgar Latin. Since I can speak Spanish, I thought learning Romanian would be easy, but it’s been pretty challenging. I found that when I took lessons, I was mixing up words I knew from Spanish and French.
Most people in Bucharest can speak English, so I typically greet strangers in Romanian (“Buna ziua”), then ask them if they speak English (“Vorbiți Engleza?”). More often than not, the conversation switches to English—which is great for communicating, but bad for learning the language.
On the cost of living: For the most part, Romania is a very inexpensive place to live—especially if you’re coming from the States. Depending on which city you live in and what neighborhood, expats can expect to pay less than $1,000 USD for a 2-bedroom apartment. At least in Bucharest, landlords typically advertise apartments for much more than they’re worth (for example, our 3-bdrm place in downtown Bucharest was advertised for $1,300 and we got it for $1,000). Keep in mind, you can find places much cheaper (especially in an older Communist building or outside the city), or more expensive (in a new expat complex).
For everyday items like produce, it really depends on what you’re buying. Locally grown products are very affordable, and depending on the season, you can get great deals on some of the best tasting fruits and vegetables out there. In July, for example, you can go to Obor market (one of the biggest farmers’ markets in the city) and take home a kilo of blackberries for less than $5. Imported products can be expensive, and I wouldn’t recommend ordering from websites outside the EU, as import taxes can be incredibly steep.
On local fashion: In Bucharest [Romania’s capital], the color black reigns supreme. I’ve actually had trouble finding clothes to my taste, and shoes in particular are tough if your feet run on the larger side (US 9 and above for women). The handmade traditional blouses are absolutely gorgeous though—typically white cotton with billowy sleeves, embroidered in a variety of colors and patterns.
On the medical system: The worst part of living in Romania is the medical system. Romania consistently ranks worst in the EU, according to the Euro Health Consumer Index, which looks at variables like accessibility, treatment outcomes, range of services, care, and pharmaceuticals. I’ve heard of many instances of bribery, and have personally experienced a misdiagnosis and the inability to find my thyroid replacement medicine (the country ran out for many months and I had to find a way to get it from the States).
On missing home: I always miss my family most—especially this last year when flying home wasn’t an option. Otherwise, I miss the ease of everyday things, like being able to fully communicate at the doctor’s office, or being able to find the correct products you need to clean your house. I also miss nicely paved streets and familiar road rules.
On the best part about living in Romania: It’s hard to choose just one thing, so I’ll say my top three: the gorgeous countryside, the proximity to other countries in Europe, and the low cost of living.
On living in Romania long-term: Next school year will be our last. Five years will have been the perfect amount of time to properly explore the country and to develop a true appreciation for the people and the culture. But because of my recent cancer journey, our next post will have to be somewhere with a more dependable medical system.
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Gwangjang Market (광장시장) is a famous Korean street food market located fairly close to the Dongdaemun Design Plaza. This traditional food market offers a variety of traditional Korean street food from Mungbean pancakes, mandu (Korean dumplings), and more. If you want to get traditional Korean food in South Korea, this is the place to do it. If you are new to Korea or just traveling you have to add Gwangjang market to your places to visit at least once in your lifetime.
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Gwangjang Market
Gwangjang Market | What to eat in Seoul’s Traditional Market
This market is Seoul’s oldest traditional market to get traditional clothing, traditional street food, and more. Gwangjang Night Market is when most of the action happens, but there are some workers that come in to eat food during the lunch rush. Gwangjang Market is also known as Gwangjang sijang and Kwang jang Market. Kwangjang is the old spelling and sijang just means market in Korean.
Why is Gwangjang Market Popular?
Gwangjang market is a popular Seoul food market because it’s the oldest market in Seoul. It is not only known for its Gwangjang market street food, but you can also get a lot of great clothing items in this area. It is considered to be one of Korea’s largest markets and is located in the heart of Seoul. Here you can find a variety of things from silk, custom-madehanboks, vintage clothing, and traditional Korean street food. If you are looking more for clothes, then I highly suggest visiting Dongdaemun market.
What to eat at Gwangjang Market | Popular Korean Street Food in Gwangjang market
There are so many great food stalls at Gwangjang Market and it has always been popular among tourists visiting South Korea. However, it has recently become even more popular due to the famous Gwangjang Netflix series on Korean Street Food. If you are planning to visit Gwangjang Market, then these are the Korean street foods you need to try there. I’ve listed Gwangjang market famous food options below.
Unlike the food market Myeongdong, the food at Gwangjang market is more traditional in comparison. Here are some of the most popular things to eat at Gwangjang market.
Not sure what to eat or feel intimidated? Book this Gwangjang Market food tour!
Bindaetteok at Gwangjang Market
Bindaetteok – Mungbean Pancakes – best food at gwangjang market
Gwangjang market Food is known for these famous and popular mung bean pancakes and all for good reason as well. You will go here and have one and I’m sure you’ll crave another and want to go back. This Gwangjang market pancakereminds me of potato pancakes and are warm and a little crispy on the outside. It’s absolutely delicious and a must eat at Gwangjang market.
Kimbap or Gimbap
This popular Korean dish is best described as a Korean version of sushi. However, instead of raw fish, this dish is usually stuffed with vegetables and meat including carrots, cucumbers, pickled radishes, and meats like bulgogi (marinated beef), tuna, and more. You can get a variety of different types of kimbap, although the smaller or mini ones called Mayak kimbap also spelled Mayak gimbap are considered to be more favorable in this market.
Kalguksu
This Gwangjang market kalguksu traditional Korean soup is filled with knife-cut Korean-style noodles. This soup is great for keeping you warm during the cold winter months and packed with comfort and flavor. There are different types of Kalguksu you can get from seafood to beef.
This soup is mild in flavor meaning it isn’t spicy however like most Korean dishes is often served with a side of kimchi. If you plan to go visit the Gwangjang Market Netflix lady, this is one of her most popular dishes and one of the most popular knife-cut noodles att Gwangjang market – she is known as the Netflix kalguksu lady.
Kalguksu and Kimchi Mandu at Gwangjang Market
Mandu
There are two typical types of mandu or dumplings that are typical in Korea. There is the traditional flavor filled with minced meat and veggies and the kimchi mandu which is filled with mean and kimchi. Kimchi mandu is only common in Korea and it’s one of my favorites to eat in Korea. They are so delicious and you can’t leave this market without eating them.
Most Koreans eat it steamed or in a soup, however, there are places that pan-fry them. I usually like them panfried, however, it honestly depends on how they are made and what they are stuffed with. The woman from the Netflix stand has both the traditional and kimchi mandu and let me tell you, that kimchi mandu is something I want to go back for.
떡볶이 – Tteokbokki
This is a popular Korean street food at Gwangjang market that is made of cylinder-shaped rice cakes and covered in a sweet and spicy sauce. You can see this type of street food all over South Korea and it’s one of the most popular street foods to enjoy. If you haven’t had it or found other vendors in other locations, be sure to have some here.
육회 – Yuk-hoe or Steak Tartare
This market is very popular for the steak tartare. They usually top it off with a raw yellow yolk that you mix in with the steak tartare. Although I didn’t get a chance to try it here because I was so full off of everything else, it looked absolutely delicious and I plan to go back and have some. I really enjoy beef tartare in South Korea because it is so flavorful and lightly seasoned.
Soondae
Best known as blood sausages. This dish is for the adventurous because it is a bit chewy in texture and blood sausages are usually stuffed pig intestines. They are quite delicious but can be somewhat bland as well. I think the texture is what most people dislike about it.
Sannakji
Although you can get live octopus here, I would suggest you wait and get it at one of the fish markets in Seoul or Jagalchi market in Busan. If you don’t have a chance to visit those places, then you could try it here. It’s one of my favorite dishes to eat in South Korea. It’s a freshly cut octopus covered in sesame oil, sesame seeds and a little bit of salt. The octopus is still moving on the plate and you may need to use your chopsticks to pry the moving tentacles, but honestly, don’t let that scare you away.
Soy Marinated Crab
Soy Marinated Crab at Gwangjang Market in Seoul is a must-try delicacy. This dish features crab marinated in a blend of soy sauce, garlic, and a hint of sweetness. The meat is tender, and the roe offers a rich, oceanic flavor. It’s a hands-on eating experience that captures the essence of Korean street food.
Other options you can eat at Gwangjang Market
비빔밥 – Bimbimbap – A spicy rice dish with veggies and meat
물냉면 – Mul-naengmyeon – Cold noodle soup
족발 – Jokbal – Pigs feet
닭발 – Dalkbal – Chicken feet
Desserts at Gwangjang Market
Hotteok at Gwangjang Market
Hotteok
This popular street food in Korea and usually served during the winter months. I only found a few stalls at the Gwangjang market that had them, but if you find them it’s totally worth checking out. It’s my favorite dessert street food option in South Korea. A hotteok is a sweet rice flour pancake that is usually stuffed with brown sugar and sometimes sunflower seeds and nuts depending on the vendor.
꽈배기 – Twisted Korean doughnut
Right next to the hotteok stand I saw inside the Gwangjang market was a stall selling Gwabaegi which is a popular Korean doughnut. This is a very popular donut that is made of rice flour so it’s a little stickier than regular donuts. They are usually hot and fresh in order to be good and covered in sugar and sometimes cinnamon sugar. If you are a donut lover like myself, you must try one of these donuts.
붕어빵 – Bungeo-ppang
Now, this is a popular snack among many Asian kids. It was my favorite growing up and if you aren’t a big fan of sweet red beans then I don’t suggest you order this. This is a fish-shaped pastry stuffed with sweetened red bean paste. This popular dish originated in Japan and was brought over and become a popular staple in Korean street food cuisine.
호두과자 – Hodo Kwaja
These delightful treats are made from a soft, cake-like batter that’s poured into a walnut-shaped mold. Inside, you’ll typically find a filling of sweet red bean paste, and sometimes even a chunk of walnut for that extra crunch. The mold is then closed and baked until the outside turns a golden brown. The result? A warm, fluffy pastry with a gooey, sweet center.
Hodo Kwaja is a popular snack not just for tourists but also for locals. It’s like a hug for your taste buds—comforting, sweet, and oh-so-delicious. Plus, they’re usually sold in little paper bags, making them the perfect on-the-go snack as you continue to explore the wonders of Gwangjang Market.
Where to shop at Gwangjang Market
So all of the street food vendors are typically on the first floor. If you want to look for fabrics, clothing, and more, they are mostly on the second floor. There are a few vendors on the first floor down some alleyways as well. I would say that the more prestigious ones are upstairs with higher quality, however, I find them all to be pretty great in design. I highly suggest taking one of Gwangjang Market’s day tours in Seoul to get more out of it.
How to get to Gwangjang Market and Opening Hours
Gwangjang Market Opening hours: Typically 8:30 am – 6 pm daily but the restaurants are usually 8:30 am to 11:00 pm, but I suggest you go in the afternoon or evening even though places are opening in the morning, most of them are prepping the food for the day. Some places are closed on Sunday.
Address: 88 Changgyeonggung-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul, 서울특별시 종로구 창경궁로 88 (예지동)
How to get there: Take the subway to Jongno-5 station and exit number 7. Head straight and you will see the entrance to the market on your right-hand side.
Prices: Korean street food prices vary, at the Netflix stall we paid 10,000 won (~$9USD) for a bowl of Kalguksu and Mandu. We shared the dish and it was pretty filling for 2 people. The Bindaetteok was about 2 for 3,000 won (~$2.50). So honestly, it depends on where you go and what you get. Most places are 1,500 won and up.
There are a lot of things to do near Gwangjang Market. Besides eating foot at Gwangjang market, here are a few things I suggest you do while here.
Purchase a Hanbok
The Hanbok is a traditional Korean dress characterized by its vibrant colors and simple lines. The women’s version usually consists of a jeogori (blouse) and a chima (skirt), while the men’s version has a jeogori and baji (pants). It’s a symbol of Korean culture and heritage, often worn on special occasions and holidays.
Now, why should you buy it at Gwangjang Market? Well, my friend, this market is like a treasure trove for authentic, high-quality Hanboks. Unlike the mass-produced versions you might find elsewhere, the Hanboks here are often handmade, stitched together by artisans who’ve honed their craft over decades. You can feel the love and tradition in every thread. Plus, the variety is astounding—whether you want something traditional or a modern twist, you’ll find it here. And let’s not forget, the prices are often much more reasonable compared to specialty boutiques.
Buy Traditional Souviners
Gwangjang Market is like a treasure chest when it comes to traditional Korean souvenirs. Let’s go on a little virtual shopping spree, shall we?
Korean Pottery: Whether it’s a celadon vase or a cute kimchi pot, Korean pottery is renowned for its craftsmanship. These make for elegant gifts or home decor.
Korean Fans: Hand-painted with intricate designs, these fans are not just functional but also incredibly beautiful. They’re easy to pack and make for a charming gift.
Traditional Masks: Known as “Hahoe,” these masks are often used in traditional Korean plays and dances. They make for unique wall decorations and are a great conversation starter.
Korean Tea Sets: If you’re a tea lover, you’ll adore the traditional Korean tea sets. They often come with a teapot, cups, and a serving tray, all exquisitely designed.
Korean Snacks: From dried seaweed to honey-filled “Yakgwa” cookies, Korean snacks are a tasty souvenir that won’t last long but will be remembered!
Calligraphy Sets: If you’re into art or writing, a traditional Korean calligraphy set could be a meaningful keepsake. It usually includes brushes, ink, and paper—all you need to try your hand at this ancient art form.
Jewelry: You can find beautiful pieces made of jade, a stone that holds special significance in Korean culture. It’s said to bring good luck and prosperity.
Silk Scarves: These are often hand-painted and feature traditional Korean patterns. They’re lightweight, making them easy to pack, and they add a touch of elegance to any outfit.
Korean Ginseng: Known for its health benefits, Korean ginseng is a popular gift. You can find it in various forms, from roots to extracts and teas.
Gwangjang Market FAQs
Is Gwangjang market indoors?
It is not located indoors, however, it is under a covered structure. It’s a large open space with roofing which prevents rain and other weather from ruining your chances of eating at this vintage market in Seoul.
Where is Gwangjang market located?
It’s located in Seoul, South Korea. The address is 88 Changgyeonggung-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul, 서울특별시 종로구 창경궁로 88 (예지동).
Does Gwangjang market take card?
Not typically. This Korean food market in Seoul is pretty much a cash-heavy area to grab cheap and delicious food. Myeongdong food market is pretty much the same as well.
What is the kimbap Korean spelling?
김밥 is the Korean spelling for Gimbap or Kimbap.
What are the best food in Gwangjang Market?
I’ve listed them above, but to be short and concise, the top choices are binddatteok, kimbap specifically mayak kimbap, Kalguksu, mandu, 떡볶이 – Tteokbokki, 육회 – Yuk-hoe or Steak Tartare, Soondae, Sannakji, 비빔밥 – Bimbimbap – A spicy rice dish with veggies and meat, 물냉면 – Mul-naengmyeon – Cold noodle soup, 족발 – Jokbal – Pigs feet, 닭발 – Dalkbal – Chicken feet, Hotteok, 꽈배기 – Twisted Korean doughnut, and 붕어빵 – Bungeo-ppang.
What are some halal food at Gwangjang market?
While I can’t guarantee any of the meat is halal, here are some halal options you can consider: Gohyang Kalguksu, hotteok, 꽈배기 – Twisted Korean doughnut, 붕어빵 – Bungeo-ppang, 떡볶이 – Tteokbokki, some mayak kimbap, and 물냉면 – Mul-naengmyeon – Cold noodle soup.
How to go to Gwangjang market by subway
Take the subway to Jongno-5 station and exit number 7. Head straight and you will see the entrance to the market on your right-hand side.
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Today, the Living Abroad series takes us to the United Arab Emirates where we meet Jay, a Canadian expat who lives in Abu Dhabi with her husband, Joe, and their two children. Here, we talk about the challenges of learning Arabic, popular snack foods (ever hear of luqaimat?), and how living in Abu Dhabi has challenged her initial assumptions about the Middle East.
Jay’s background: We moved to Abu Dhabi in August of 2016. from Stavanger, Norway. Prior to that, we had been in Norway and Gabon. These days, I’m a full-time mom. But back in the day, I was a teacher. I majored in English and taught middle school. With my youngest now entering school, I’m working on my next steps and hoping to pursue some creative ambitions.
After living in Norway, Abu Dhabi was a relatively easy transition. The service industry thrives here and the population is 90% expatriates. Culturally, it has been really interesting experiencing the Middle East and it has challenged and changed many of my preconceived notions.
On the cost of living: The UAE is more expensive than the US in most regards. This is the place to make money (there’s no income tax) but it’s also the place to spend money.
On learning Arabic: I find Arabic incredibly difficult. My son learns it in school and remote learning has really put me to the test. Most everyone speaks English here so there is rarely a time where we are not understood but I’ve picked up a few common Arabic phrases – khallas [“enough”], inshallah [“God willing”], as-salamu alaykum [“peace be with you”], and alhamdulillah [“praise be to God”].
On Emirati food: Because the vast majority of residents are expatriates and most of the restaurants are international, Emirati food is not particularly common. The origins of many Middle Eastern dishes are often up for great debate but biryani (a rice dish), hummus, and kebabs are common and if you’re looking for something interesting, you can track down a camel burger. Sweet shops and coffee places are abundant and often full of locals at all hours of the day. I like the luqaimat, a deep-fried ball of dough drizzled with date syrup.
On smoking hookah: It’s actually called shisha here! I think we did once when we had a friend visiting but it’s not something we seek out. There are many shisha bars and cafes though and it’s certainly easy to find.
On the local fashion: Local women in Abu Dhabi usually wear an abaya, often black but not always, with a shayla, a thin headscarf. Fancy handbags and shoes are the norm. Men wear a long white robe called a kandora often with a white ghotra, a scarf-like fabric, on the head.
In Abu Dhabi, I generally dress more conservatively than I would at home. I try to keep my shoulders and knees covered when I’m out in the city. As you spend time here you realize where it’s more accepted to dress down (international hotels, certain housing complexes) and where it’s better to be more conservative (the post office, government buildings, schools). That said, things have changed a lot in the five years I’ve been here. I see women dress in all sorts of manners and it’s more accepted than it was when we first arrived.
On raising kids in Abu Dhabi: It is interesting being a mom in Abu Dhabi because we live amongst so many different cultures. My children’s school has over 60 nationalities represented so we see a wide variety of families and values. The biggest contrast to other places we’ve lived is the amount of help and staff people employ here. We are one of the few families I know that do not employ a full-time nanny. When I take my kids to the playground in our community, I’m often the only mom amongst the nannies. Also, kids stay out very late here! It’s not uncommon to see small children strolling the mall or in a restaurant at 10 pm.
On safety: Rules are strict in Abu Dhabi; it is such a safe place. We joke that you can leave your wallet on a table and come back the next day and it would still be sitting there. Street harassment is not a concern. I have never been harassed nor really felt unsafe (not including driving) in my five years here.
On living in Abu Dhabi during Covid-19: It has been interesting and occasionally frustrating. Rules come hard and fast and you don’t dare break them or criticize them. Abu Dhabi itself has become a bubble even within the UAE. Other emirates, including Dubai, have taken a different approach and we now have a permanent border between Abu Dhabi and the rest of the country where you must show a recent PCR to cross back into the capital. The UAE had the second-fastest vaccine rollout in the world – I was fully vaccinated by the end of February – and has relied heavily on extensive testing. I’ve been tested nearly 15 times just because it’s necessary to enter buildings or return to Abu Dhabi. Certainly, there are times where rules don’t make sense or I wished restrictions would lessen slightly but it has also felt very safe.
On missing home: We’ve been gone for over 11 years now so there is not much, materialistically speaking, that we miss anymore. But certainly, in light of the pandemic, we miss our family. We haven’t been home in two years and it’s hard not knowing when we’ll be able to visit. I also miss fresh air. The heat, humidity, and the sand of the desert just don’t bring the crisp, clean air.
On the best part about living in Abu Dhabi: I love the call to prayer. I love that I can get absolutely anything delivered. I love valet parking everywhere and beautiful hotels and restaurants.
On the worst part: It can be hard to reconcile that many of the things I love about living here come at a cost in terms of the service and manual labor. People are not treated equally here. Also, the summer heat – it literally feels like living in an oven.
On living in Abu Dhabi long-term: We’ve been in Abu Dhabi for five years and feel fairly settled and comfortable. I’d be okay staying for another year or two but my husband is starting to get itchy feet! Covid has definitely changed the game though so it seems like everything from borders to opportunities are all a lot more difficult.
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Hey everyone! Welcome back to Living Abroad, a series that shows you what expat life is like in cities around the world. Our latest interview features pastry chef Molly, who moved from Dallas to Paris to attend pastry school at the Cordon Bleu. She now lives in Versailles, France, with François, her French partner and their adorable dog, Elliot.
Here’s a peek into her dreamy life in France…
Molly’s background:
Hi! My name is Molly Wilkinson. I’m originally from Dallas, Texas and I teach pastry classes in Versailles! I live in an 18th-century apartment with François, my French partner, and Eliott, our dog.
I moved to attend pastry school at Le Cordon Bleu and really fell in love with the city, particularly the culture around food and the amazing ingredients. I ended up going back to Texas once my visa expired, then I returned and worked at several pâtisseries — and even a château — to gain experience.
On her old-world apartment: Our apartment is about five minutes walk from the Versailles Château in the Saint Louis neighborhood. The building was built in the 18th century and is full of charm. Our apartment is full of light, still has the original parquet floors and huge mirrors on the mantles. I use one of the rooms for teaching my pastry classes. I’ve planted red geraniums in the flower boxes and filled the cabinets with pastry tools and antique cake stands. In the middle of the room is a big antique French farm table where I create.
On moving to Versailles: Versailles is full of history and charm. There is so much more to the city than just the Château. It’s quite expansive and doesn’t have the small windy medieval streets like some of the towns nearby. It’s quiet, traditional, and has beautiful architecture. It’s situated just 30 minutes from Paris by train, so we have the peacefulness of living outside the big city but also the proximity to easily go in whenever we need to. There are two main neighborhoods in Versailles, the Saint Louis Quarter and the Notre Dame Quarter. Both have impressive churches and markets! There’s also the horse carriage museum to explore and even a local flour mill.
On becoming a pastry chef: I’ve been baking since I was very young, but it was all American treats – like my favorite chocolate chip cookies and brownies. It wasn’t until I came to Paris at the age of 26 that I started to learn the art of French pâtisserie. Going to school for the culinary arts is difficult; you’re on your feet all day, and there’s a certain amount of pressure to get things right the first time. I loved it though. I learned more with each creation and got more confident.
After I graduated, I did an internship at a tiny pastry shop in the 10th arrondissement in Paris where I was the only person besides the two women pastry chefs running the place. I learned so much and went on from there to work at several bakeries in both the US and France. The culinary arts is a field where you are constantly learning, which makes it quite interesting.
I focus on pâtisserie. Within pâtisserie, you have several different specialties, like candy, chocolate, and even ice cream. Separate from patisserie is bread-making (boulangerie), and yeasted pastries (viennoiserie), like croissants. In the US, the word pastry often refers to anything sweet that is French, like eclairs and tarts, but croissants as well, whereas they are actually two entirely different fields.
On learning French: I consider myself intermediate level in French. Learning the language when you live in any foreign country is so important. It opens doors but also allows you to experience more of the culture and feel more like you belong. In terms of tips, I’d say to get a French boyfriend and try to surround yourself with French-speaking people. I also work with a tutor on a regular basis. When I lived in Paris, I took French through the Mairie (city hall). This is a GREAT tip for people living there. It’s very inexpensive and a good way to get into learning asap.
On making friends: Joining different activity groups helps, but I’ve even made friends in the area through Instagram! Eliott is quite the mascot and conversation starter too.
On dating: Dating in France is very different than in the US. Essentially there isn’t dating – either you’re together or not! Yes, the first 1-2 dates are trials to see what you think, then pretty soon thereafter, you’re in a relationship. Also, there isn’t “the discussion” aka the “are we boyfriend and girlfriend?”. I once tried to do this with François, and it was pretty hilarious. He was like, well we are together, we’re happy, and that’s what matters – no need to ask or label.
On the cost of living: I find living in Versailles similar to living in Dallas. I shop a lot at the market for fruits and vegetables and they’re so much cheaper than even buying them in the supermarkets here.
On living in France as an American: It’s been great! But it’s also all about how you approach things. I love living here and try to spread that positivity into all areas of my life and maybe they can sense it? Also, I am familiar with the customs after living here for more than six years and speak the language.
Even visiting though, Americans are very much so welcome! Just great people with a “Bonjour” when going into a shop or restaurant, or starting any conversation. That is the best advice. Add “Madame or Monsieur” and you’ll get a smile for your efforts.
On French fashion: Fashion will vary in France from town to town, and of course the different generations. Fashion in Versailles is a lot different than in Paris. In Versailles, it’s pretty traditional, longer skirts, slacks, nice blouses or dresses, in neutral tones or florals. There’s also a thing with red pants here? Seriously. In Paris, it’s very fashion-forward, trendy, and pretty much anything goes. That’s what makes people-watching such fun!
On living in France during Covid-19: It’s been very quiet. During the confinements, especially the first one, we really just stayed inside, did big shops for food and watched a lot of movies. Thankfully we have a bit more space than the 9m2 (100sqft) apartment I had in Paris! The pandemic also forced me to quickly pivot my business model from in-person pastry classes to online classes, and it’s been incredible. I now reach more people than I ever did before, and folks that live all over the world!
On missing home: Besides my family and friends, I miss tacos the most!
On the best part about living in Versailles: I love how I call it home now. I walk down the streets and see people I know. I have my favorite haunts and feel comfortable here. Also, there’s something pretty special about having the Versailles gardens as the place where I walk my dog.
On the worst part about living in Versailles: The bureaucracy is quite daunting. I like to say that France makes you work for it!
On wanting to living in Versaille long-term: Oui!
Merci, Molly!
(Photos by Molly Krystal Kenney, Joann Pai, and Claire Emmaline.)
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For this fall’s Living Abroad series, our next stop is Morocco. Sinclair, an American elementary school teacher, lives in Tangier, Morocco’s third-largest city. Here, Sinclair describes Moroccan nut, date, and avocado smoothies, her experience dating in Morocco, and Tangier’s unlikely love for Birkenstocks…
Sinclair’s background: I moved to Morocco in September 2019 and quickly fell in love with the country. Everyone I met was incredibly kind and welcoming; I felt at home shortly after arriving. I liked it so much that I did not want to leave, even when COVID-19 hit Morocco in 2020 and I had the opportunity to return to the US. Even though the past year and a half have been incredibly challenging and stressful, so much good came out of it through friendships and making strides in my career. Morocco has so much to offer and I have been on an incredible adventure, and through it, I found a place I can see myself thriving in. I feel like I am following my heart and living my life to the fullest.
On the natural beauty: Morocco has inspired my photography due to its seemingly effortless beauty. There is something very special about the light in Morocco that helps make it so photogenic, along with its vibrant colors and charming streets. Everywhere I turn I am struck by tiny moments of art from a sweeping archway of a doorway, rooftop views of the city and the ocean to the street cats lounging among food vendors.
On the cost of living: The cost of living in Morocco is very affordable. Rent varies from city to city, but you can find apartments anywhere from $200-$800 a month. In regards to other expenses, it is easy to find a meal that costs anywhere from $2-6. At fancier restaurants, a dinner would cost around $25. This is partly because almost all of the fresh produce is locally sourced and is super cheap as Morocco has a huge farming industry.
On food: Moroccan food is delicious and full of flavor. Fear not if you don’t like spicy food because Moroccans tend not to either, and their traditional foods are rich and full of umami and sweet flavors. Couscous is the obvious favorite of many, but I am fond of the lamb and prune tajine, which is essentially a slow roast and is eaten with fresh bread. Moroccan smoothie and juice bars are my favorite though. You will not find better fresh-squeezed orange juice anywhere else. I love the Moroccan smoothie with nuts, dates, and avocado which is delicious, filling, and perfect for breakfast.
On fashion: You will find that in big cities like Rabat and Casablanca, women dress more freely and in more American styles. Where I live, in the north, it’s much more conservative; people dress more consistently and more similarly. On the street, I notice women wearing long flowy maxi dresses, blouses, high-waisted pants, chunky sneakers, big sunglasses, and a bold red lip. Some women wear headscarves, but a lot don’t as well. There are a lot of young hipsters that dress more similarly to the French art student vibe with jeans, fun prints, and lots of details. Last but not least Birkenstock! They are the shoe of Tangier and I am here for it. There are certain clothing styles that I do not feel comfortable wearing out in public though, like short shorts or crop tops because I would stand out more than I already do as a white woman.
On being an American in Morocco: A lot of Moroccans love America! When they find out that I am American they are excited and want to talk about it and ask me questions, or share a random connection they have with the US. Many Moroccans are tuned into US affairs from politics to TikTok trends. They are often fascinated that I chose to live abroad and are friendly towards me. Some people I’ve met still have the American Dream of making a life for themselves in the land of opportunity. Others do not care about that but find the American mindset very open and are fascinated and curious about our lifestyle.
On the local languages: Morocco has two official languages: Arabic and Amazigh. The majority of Moroccans speak Darija, which is the Moroccan dialect of Arabic. I am learning Darija and know enough to use it in interactions at the market, with taxi drivers, or to say hi to my neighbors. But it is difficult because it is so different from English and there are many sounds that we do not use that I simply cannot pronounce. Amazigh is spoken by the indigenous population of Morocco and is characterized as an Afro-Asiatic language; it uses an entirely different alphabet. Many Moroccans also speak French; it is often used as the language of business and government.
On street harassment: I experience street harassment pretty regularly. On a given day in Tangier walking around, I might go 30 minutes with 8 different remarks or none at all. It’s really random. The saving grace is that however angry or annoyed it makes me at times, and often uncomfortable, I rarely feel unsafe. I might get an “hola, muy guapa” or “bonjour”, or a lot of stares and I have been followed, but it has rarely ever been scary. Sometimes it seems they want to shoot their shot, others are just overly friendly or curious, and some are gross, but I do not feel in most cases that the men have bad intentions. I do my best to be vigilant and aware, but I chose to ignore it. I also walk around with my guy friends which greatly reduces the attention I get. It is not fun but it is manageable.
On dating: Dating in Morocco is interesting to say the least. Dating is far more complicated in Morocco as there are several laws and customs that prevent the mingling of genders. Relationships and dating definitely exist but they are more hidden. Sex before marriage is not allowed, but that never stopped anyone. There is certainly no PDA and forget vacationing with a significant other because unmarried Moroccan couples are unable to stay at hotels and Airbnbs, with the exception of foreigners. Like everywhere else, the younger generations are changing and I see couples around and I know people who date and are in serious relationships but often do not tell their extended family. I notice some people living a Hannah Montana-esque life, one fairly conservative with their family and one more freely with their friends. The lack of freedom forces people to act certain ways so I understand how it can be challenging to maneuver around.
On meeting someone special: I only dated a little and mostly through friends I knew in my first year in Morocco, until I moved to Tangier and was bored and stuck at home for a little while, so I decided to see what Tinder was like there. I was met with a very positive response but because of Covid had little interest in actually going on dates, until I met my now partner of almost one year! I am grateful I did, he has made my experience in Tangier and in Morocco infinitely better. We have encountered some cultural differences and challenges of course, but nothing we could not handle. It is also frustrating to not be able to live as freely in public as we could elsewhere but that has not stopped our happiness.
On missing home: More than anything, I miss my friends and family. Even though I chose to live abroad, that does not make living away from your loved ones easy. I am thankful for Zoom and texting that have kept many of my relationships alive and close despite the physical distance.
On driving: I also miss driving. Although I have rented a car on a few occasions and driven in Morocco I do not drive on a daily basis, and driving in the city is terrifying. I miss nice empty suburban roads and blasting my music with my windows down while driving.
On alcohol: Alcohol is not illegal in Morroco, but it is taboo. That being said, there are liquor stores and some restaurants sell it, though the variety is limited (I miss craft beer and cider!).
But where they lack in beer, Morocco excels in wine. Morocco’s Middle Atlas region has great soil for wine and they produce some very good wine. Morocco makes a unique grey wine that is made with red grapes but in the style of white wine, which produces a light refreshing alternative to rosé, which is a must-try! It’s nice being able to get a good bottle of wine for $9.
On the worst part of living in Morocco: The lack of freedom. I find it frustrating and kind of surprising how many restrictive laws are in place on women especially in Morocco or various traditions that exist that make it difficult to freely express yourself or live openly. I took for granted my rights as an American but I am grateful for them now. I value the ability to take ownership of my life and that I have the freedom to live it how I please. Although, that is not the case for many people in America to this day, and it is certainly far from the truth in Morocco in some ways.
On the best part of living in Morocco: The people. Connecting with new people who have different stories and life experiences is an eye-opening experience. Morocco is such a beautiful country with beautiful people that mean well and have made my experience so rewarding.
Thank you so much, Sinclair!
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There are times when I absolutely adore living in Austin: when I’m paddleboarding on Town Lake, when I’m drinking a frozen margarita at Maudie’s, when I’m hanging out in hip East Austin under string lights.
That being said, there are certain things I’m less fond of: the sweltering summers, the isolation, the lack of walkability.
I’ve lived in Austin for almost two years. Here’s what I’ve come to love and hate about it:
What I love about Austin
The People
By and large, Texans are incredibly nice people: generous, funny, and sincerely kind. When I had Covid, multiple neighbors brought me tortilla soup and walked my dog. People say hello to you on the street here, even if they don’t know you. Austin is by far the friendliest place I’ve ever lived.
The Food
Another positive – the food. Austin’s food scene is thriving: you can find excellent TexMex, Thai, Vietnamese, and of course, barbecue. Some of my favorite spots are Uchiko (sushi), Odd Duck (new American), and Loro (Asian/barbecue fusion). I’ve also grown to LOVE frozen margaritas, ha.
The Water
As a born-and-raised Michigander, I desperately need to live near water (that was one of the things I found hardest about living in Colorado). Luckily, Austin has plenty of it: Town Lake, Barton Springs, and Lake Travis, to name a few.
The Winters
The winters here are delightful – the temperature hovers around 70 degrees, and the skies are usually crisp and blue. Though we do have the odd snow day, the winter weather is very mild.
Live Music
I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention Austin’s internationally renowned live music scene. I love how you can walk into a random bar on a Tuesday and hear an incredible performance for the price of a Shiner Bock.
The Dog-friendliness
In Austin, you can bring your dog almost anywhere — I bring my pup almost everywhere I go. My local CVS is even dog-friendly.
What I Hate
The Crowds
Due to its huge popularity in recent years, Austin feels insanely crowded at times. Parking is hard to find, restaurants are packed, and the weekends especially can be hectic.
The High Cost of Living
Austin is very expensive. To buy a plot of land – not even a house – in my neighborhood, costs a million dollars.
Poor Walkability
Sadly, Austin is not a walkable city. Bisected by two highways, Austin is a very car-dependent city; for walkability, it ranks 42nd in the US, between Las Vegas and Pheonix. As someone who loves to walk, this is a huge downside.
The Allergies
Central Texas has been called the “Allergy Capital of the World.” There’s even a daily allergy report on the local news, where official pollen counts for ragweed, grass, and mold are measured. I never had allergies in my life until I moved here — ugh.
The Heat
The summers in Austin are brutal. Temperatures can reach 110 degrees (or higher). After this year’s scorching summer, 90 degrees bizarrely feels somewhat cool to me.
The Isolation
Austin is close to only a few cities: Dallas, Houston, and San Antonio. Earlier this year I made the mistake of driving to New Orleans, which took 10 hours. Sometimes I feel so envious of the East Coast – imagine driving a few hours and being able to access Boston, Philly, and NYC? Sigh.
All this to say, I’ve been pretty happy here. I’m not sure if it’s my forever home (I’m not sure I have a forever home, period), but I plan to stay at least a few more years. And enjoy many more lake days and frozen margs.
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Rüdesheim, a charming town nestled along the banks of the mighty Rhine River, beckons travelers with its irresistible blend of history, natural beauty, and warm hospitality. Here in this idyllic Rhine Valley gem, you’ll find a place where cobblestone streets wind through centuries-old half-timbered buildings, where vine-covered hillsides create a stunning backdrop, and where the aroma of traditional German cuisine fills the air. Join me as we explore the best things to do in Rüdesheim, and discover why this enchanting town is an absolute must-visit destination for anyone seeking an authentic German experience.
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17 Amazing Things to Do in Rudesheim | What to do in Rüdesheim Germany
Like Cochem, Rudesheim is a charming place that’s often overlooked by tourists and it should definitely be on your list. It’s an easy day trip or boat trip from Frankfurt, Kaiserslautern, or Cochem. There are a lot of things to see and do in this charming town filled with half-timbered houses, from Christmas markets to Rudsheimer Kaffee, this small town is a great town to visit. This town is known for its wine but isn’t just known for wine lovers.
1. Explore the Drosselgasse
Our journey begins on the cobblestone streets of the 15th Century Drosselgasse, the heart and soul of Rüdesheim. This bustling alleyway is lined with colorful half-timbered buildings, cozy wine taverns, and shops selling souvenirs and local crafts. It is one of the most famous narrow streets in the area.
Take your time to wander through the Drosselgasse, soak in the lively atmosphere, and maybe even sample a glass of the region’s renowned Riesling wine. The Drosselgasse truly comes alive during the annual wine festival, so if you’re lucky enough to visit during this time, you’re in for a treat!
2. Check out the Clock tower on the Die Drosselgasse
As you stroll through the charming streets of Rüdesheim, you’ll quickly come across Die Drosselgasse. This picturesque alleyway is nothing short of a time capsule, lined with colorful half-timbered buildings adorned with flower boxes and charming outdoor seating.
The clock tower is a symbol of the town’s playful and welcoming spirit. It’s one of the most missed and interesting things to do in Rudesheim. On the hour, every hour, it comes to life with music and animated figurines that dance, play beautiful bells, and entertain onlookers. It’s a fun and unexpected surprise as you explore this lively alleyway.
3. Taste Rudesheimer Coffee
One of my favorite things to do in Rudesheim was trying their coffee, it’s an experience of it’s own.
Rüdesheim Coffee, a delightful treat that’s as much a part of the town’s charm as its picturesque streets and vineyards. Imagine this: a steaming cup of freshly brewed coffee, laced with a generous portion of Asbach Uralt brandy, and topped with a dollop of sweet, freshly whipped cream. It’s not just a drink; it’s an experience, and it’s a must-try when you visit Rüdesheim.
You can savor this unique local specialty in many of the town’s cozy cafes and taverns, but one of the most famous places to enjoy it is at the Asbach Visitor Center. Here, you can not only indulge in a cup of Rüdesheim Coffee but also learn about the history of Asbach Uralt brandy, which has been crafted in the region for generations.
4. Visit Siegfried’s Mechanical Music Cabinet
Step back in time at Siegfried’s Mechanical Music Cabinet, a unique museum that celebrates the beauty of mechanical music. It’s like stepping into a magical world of intricate music boxes, self-playing instruments, and vintage jukeboxes.
As you explore this hidden gem, you’ll be amazed by the craftsmanship of these historic musical devices. Don’t forget to catch one of the live demonstrations—they’re a real treat for the ears and the soul.
5. Wine Tasting in Rüdesheim’s Vineyards
If you’re a wine enthusiast like me, you’re in for a treat in Rüdesheim. The town and its surroundings are famous for their vineyards, and there’s no better way to experience this than through a wine tasting.
Head to one of the local wineries or wine bars, and savor some of the finest Riesling wines in the world. Many places offer guided tours where you can learn about the winemaking process and taste the different varieties produced in the region. This is one of the most popular things to do in Rudesheim.
6. Ride the Rudesheimer Seilbahn or Cable Car Ride to Niederwald Monument
Things to do in Rudesheim | Niederwald Monument
For panoramic views of the Rhine Valley that will leave you in awe, hop on the Rüdesheim cable car. This scenic ride takes you to the Niederwalddenkmal monument on the top of the hill, perched high above the town.
As you ascend, you’ll be treated to breathtaking vistas of the Rhine River, vineyards, and the charming town below. Once you reach the monument, take a moment to appreciate the stunning views and the impressive statue that commemorates the founding of the German Empire in the late 19th century.
7. Explore Ruine Rossel
To reach Ruine Rossel, begin your journey from Rüdesheim. You can follow well-marked hiking trails that lead you through vineyards and forested paths or follow the path after reaching the top via Seilbahn. Be sure to wear comfortable shoes and carry some water.
Once you arrive at Ruine Rossel, you’ll be greeted by the captivating sight of ancient castle remnants. The castle dates back to the 13th century or the Middle Ages and was once a formidable fortress. Explore the stone walls, towers, and courtyards as you imagine the history that unfolded within these walls.
8. Visit the Magic Cave
This is a corridor enclosed by walls, adorned with enchanting glass stones that shimmer with a touch of magic. It’s known to be a magical place to visit and
9. Check out the Deer Enclosure at Wildpark Niederwald
Things to do in Rudesheim | Deer Enclosure at Wildpark Niederwald
This is such an awesome route that I highly suggest anyone who only has a day to spend here to check it out. As you continue walking on the path past the Niederwald Monument and you’ll explore some more castles and things within the area, you’ll stumble upon the Wildpark Niederwald on the way to the next cable car down the hill into Assmannhausen.
You can purchase some deer feed and feed them by hand. It’s a great place to take some kids and the deers are eager to come up close to you.
10. Take the Assmannshausen Chairlift
Descending on the chairlift from the heights of Rüdesheim to the charming town of Assmannshausen is like embarking on a journey through a living postcard. As you glide down, the lush vineyards, dense forests, and the sparkling Rhine River unfold before your eyes. The gentle swaying of the chairlift and the breathtaking panoramic views create a sense of tranquility and awe. It’s a remarkable experience that connects you with the natural beauty of the Rhine Valley, making the descent to Assmannshausen an unforgettable adventure in this picturesque corner of Germany.
11. Rheinstein Castle
Things to do in Rudesheim | Rheinstein Castle
After the deer park and as you head down the hill in the cable car, you can easily take the ferry to the castle which is included in the ticket. It’s technically not in Rudehseim am Rhein, but close enough to the surrounding area that you should make the stop. As you approach Rheinstein Castle, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, you’ll be captivated by its fairy-tale appearance. The castle’s well-preserved architecture and romantic setting make it a favorite among visitors seeking a taste of medieval Germany.
Once inside, you’ll have the opportunity to wander through its historic halls, courtyards, and gardens. The castle’s interior is a treasure trove of medieval artifacts, including weaponry, armor, and period furnishings. Be sure to explore the Knights’ Hall, where you can imagine the feasts and gatherings that once took place within these ancient stone walls.
12. Cruise the Rhine River
To truly appreciate the beauty of the Rhine Valley, consider taking a leisurely the Rhine cruise. The boat tours provide a different perspective of the stunning landscapes, including medieval castles, terraced vineyards, and charming villages. Rhine river cruises are quite famous in this area where you can see beautiful villages and scenery.
As you sail along the river, keep an eye out for the famous Loreley Rock and the legendary Loreley Maiden. It’s a relaxing and scenic experience that will leave you with lasting memories.
13. Explore Ehrenfels Castle Ruins
History buffs, get ready for a captivating journey through time at the Ehrenfels Castle ruins. This medieval fortress, perched on a hill overlooking the Rhine, offers a glimpse into the past and incredible views of the river.
As you walk among the ancient stones and remnants of this once-mighty castle, you can’t help but feel transported to a different era. The history and stories that surround these ruins are simply fascinating.
14. Take a Stroll Through the Vineyard Trails
For those who enjoy a good hike and want to experience Rüdesheim’s natural beauty up close, the vineyard trails are a must-do activity. The Rhine Valley’s terraced vineyards create a stunning backdrop for your adventure.
The Rheinsteig trail is one of the most popular routes, offering a mix of forested paths, vineyards, and scenic overlooks. It’s a great way to connect with nature and take in the serene landscapes of the region.
15. Enjoy a Traditional German Meal
No visit to Germany is complete without savoring some delicious local cuisine, and Rüdesheim won’t disappoint. Head to one of the town’s cozy restaurants or taverns and indulge in traditional German dishes like schnitzel, sausages, and sauerkraut.
And of course, don’t forget to pair your meal with a glass of the local Riesling wine. Prost!
16. Shop for Souvenirs
Before you leave Rüdesheim, be sure to shop at some souvenir shops and pick up local souvenirs to remember your wonderful adventure. The town is filled with charming shops selling everything from handmade crafts to local wines and spirits.
You’ll find unique treasures that make for great gifts or mementos of your time in this enchanting town.
17. Brömserburg Castle
The Brömserburg Castle, a historic gem located in Rüdesheim, Germany, offers a captivating glimpse into the town’s rich history. This medieval castle, dating back to the 11th century, stands as a testament to centuries of Rhine Valley heritage. As you explore its ancient stone walls, towers, and courtyards, you’ll be transported to a bygone era, imagining the lives of knights and nobles who once inhabited this fortress. Today, the Brömserburg Castle houses the Rheingau Wine Museum, where you can delve into the fascinating world of winemaking, sample regional wines, and discover the intricate art of viticulture. With its historical significance and cultural treasures, a visit to Brömserburg Castle promises an enriching experience for history enthusiasts and wine aficionados alike.
18. Attend a Christmas Market (If You’re Visiting in December)
If your visit coincides with the holiday season, you’re in for a magical experience. Rüdesheim hosts a beautiful Christmas market that transforms the town into a winter wonderland.
Stroll through the festive stalls, sip on mulled wine, and sample delicious seasonal treats. It’s the perfect way to get into the holiday spirit! It’s also one of the best places to check out Christmas markets.
NOTE: The medieval torture museum is permanently closed and no longer a site to visit in Rudesheim am Rhein.
19. Eat a Chimney Cake!
These traditional cakes originate from Hungary and are a typical delicacy. They have a crispy outside and hollow inside. They are covered in cinnamon sugar, and sprinkles, and sometimes filled with ice cream. These are perfect when they freshly come out of the oven and resemble a chimney when the steam comes up from the center. You’ll see this chimney cake shop right down the Drosselgasse.
How to get to Rudesheim
Getting to Rüdesheim is a straightforward journey, and I’m here to guide you through it. Whether you’re arriving by plane, train, or car, I’ve got you covered.
By Train
The easiest way is to take the train. If you’re already in Germany or in a nearby European country, traveling by train is a convenient option. Rüdesheim is well-connected by the German railway system (Deutsche Bahn). You can take a train to either Rüdesheim am Rhein station or Rüdesheim (Rhein) KD station, depending on your final destination within the town.
From Frankfurt: Take the regional train (S-Bahn) S8 or S9 from the airport to Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof (the main train station). From there, you can catch a train to Rüdesheim. The journey takes around 1.5 to 2 hours, and you’ll likely need to change trains in Wiesbaden or Koblenz.
By Car
I highly recommend renting with Discover Cars to save money – make sure to reserve in advance to guarantee an automatic vehicle if you do not know how to drive a manual (stick shift). Driving to Rüdesheim is a fantastic option if you want to explore the surrounding Rhine Valley at your own pace. From Frankfurt, take the A66 and then the B42 highway, following the signs to Rüdesheim am Rhein. It’s a scenic drive, and you’ll have the flexibility to stop and explore charming villages along the way.
From Frankfurt: If you prefer the flexibility of driving, you can rent a car at Frankfurt Airport and take the A66 and then the B42 highway to Rüdesheim. The drive typically takes around 1 to 1.5 hours, depending on traffic.
Another unique way to arrive in Rüdesheim is by taking a Rhine River cruise. Many river cruise companies offer stops in Rüdesheim as part of their itineraries. If you choose this option, you’ll disembark at the town’s picturesque riverfront, ready to start your adventure.
No matter which mode of transportation you choose, Rüdesheim’s warm welcome and enchanting atmosphere will be waiting for you upon your arrival.
Why should you visit Rudesheim
This small town has a lot to offer and should not be missed. Many people go to the larger cities and skip out on the beauty of these small towns. Rudesheim is famous for a variety of things like its wine, coffee, and castles which is why you should visit.
There are a lot more things to do there than you would think, especially if you follow my tricks to visit this beautiful town.
Best Time to Travel to Rudesheim
The best time to travel to Rüdesheim largely depends on your preferences and the type of experience you seek.
Spring (March to May) offers mild weather, blooming landscapes, and fewer crowds, making it perfect for leisurely exploration and vineyard visits.
Summer months (June to August) is the peak tourist season when Rüdesheim comes alive with festivals, river cruises, and warm, sunny weather, making it ideal for outdoor activities.
Early autumn (September to November) is a delightful time when vineyards display vibrant autumn colors, and you can participate in wine-related events with fewer visitors.
Winter (December to February) transforms Rüdesheim into a magical wonderland with its enchanting Christmas market, making it a cozy and festive option for those who don’t mind colder weather.
Ultimately, the best time depends on your preferences, whether you seek vibrant festivals, serene landscapes, or holiday charm in this charming Rhine Valley town.
Tours to Rudesheim and in Rudesheim
If you want to make the most of seeing all the things to do in Rudesheim, a tour might be the option for you. There are a couple of options for tours or trips you can take in Rudesheim. There is a day tour and guided tour from Frankfurt that allows you to travel through the Rhein valley by boat. This boat cruise is one that is highly recommended and you can travel through Niederwalddenkmal, Assmannshausen, and Sank Goarshausen. There is also an option for walking wine-tasting tour in Assmannshausen as well!
If you aren’t traveling from Frankfurt, then I highly recommend purchasing these tickets and following the romantic route or romantic tour. It only costs about 11-22 euros per person and includes transportation as well.
In conclusion, there are many things to do in Rudesheim. Rüdesheim is a hidden gem in the heart of the Rhine Valley, offering a perfect blend of history, natural beauty, and culinary delights. Whether you’re exploring its charming streets, sipping on Riesling wine, or taking in the breathtaking views from the cable car, this town has something for every traveler.
Map of Rudesheim
Rudesheim Romantic Tour Map
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Every September brings with it a number of festivals in Tennessee, and one of my absolute favorites is Pilgrimage Music Festival in the charming town of Franklin. While other music festivals in Tennessee like Bonnaroo and CMA Fest are in the camp of “you’ve got to go at least once,” Pilgrimage is one I would return to every year if I could make it work. Here’s why.
The post was last updated in September 2024.
The origins of Pilgrimage
Franklin resident and Better than Ezra frontman Kevin Griffin wanted to create something in Franklin that embodied the region’s musical roots while also showing off its pastoral farmland. As it turns out, a century-old horse farm, the Park at Harlinsdale Farm—which is now owned by the City of Franklin and boasts a dog park, fishing pond, soft track and equestrian trails—was the ideal spot to launch such an undertaking.
It’s also located directly across from the Factory at Franklin, a mixed-use facility in an old hosiery that has gotten a serious upgrade over the years, as has Pilgrimage itself. The first year I attended back in 2015, there were maybe 8,000 attendees. The busiest Pilgrimage I ever attended was when Justin Timberlake was headlining, and it was quite a scene with at least four time the attendance numbers.
But the beauty of this laid-back event is that while you can see A-list acts like Chris Stapleton and Brandi Carlile on the main stage, you’ll see great talent no matter the time slot or size of the stage. I’ve seen everyone from Lucie Silvas and Brothers Osborne to Keith Urban and Lauren Daigle at Pilgrimage.
In the 10th anniversary of Pilgrimage Festival this year, headliners include Hozier, Dave Matthews Band, Noah Kahan, and needtobreathe with plenty of other country, rock, pop, bluegrass and Americana acts scheduled across the six stages over the two days.
Where to stay in Franklin for Pilgrimage Festival
Harlinsdale Farm, the host venue of Pilgrimage, is conveniently located a straight one-mile shot from downtown Franklin. Downtown Franklin is also the home of the Harpeth Hotel, a gem of a property that’s walkable to not only Pilgrimage but everything in the historic heart of the city. If you can’t get a room at the Harpeth, here are some other places to stay near the farm:
What to expect at Pilgrimage Music Festival
The festival is extremely chill and just plain easy compared to bigger music festivals like Bonnaroo, and at this stage in my festival-going career, I prefer the more manageable festivals, particularly if I’m just committing to going for the day. The grandma in me loves, too, that this festival ends promptly at 10pm each night thanks to a local noise ordinance.
Parking for Pilgrimage
Parking for any festival can be a headache, but I’ve had a lot of success parking in downtown Franklin for free (or cheap) and walking the 15 minutes to the Pilgrimage site. There are cops directing traffic everywhere, and it’s very pedestrian-friendly to walk from downtown Franklin to the farm. The are also, of course, paid lots closer to the festival grounds. Here’s Pilgrimage’s official parking map:
If you’re driving in, I could not plan on coming via Liberty Pike during prime festival arrival hours (11am to 7pm). Instead, I’d try to sneaky-foot into Franklin a back way and park downtown, then walk. For those staying close enough to the farm, you can bike to the venue. There is both bike parking and a bike valet on site at Pilgrimage.
The Pilgrimage vibes
While sure, you’re always going to get your fashion influencers wearing their cowgirl best, this festival takes place in late September, which we locals begrudgingly call second summer here in Tennessee. It’s usually hot hot HOT, and you’ll want to layer up in quick-drying material to fight the heat during the day then stave off the incoming cool at night.
Bring an umbrella, plenty of sunscreen, and either lawn chairs or a blanket to sit on. Local food and drink also feature prominently at this Franklin festival, so be sure and peruse the food vendors and drink offerings.
The VIP experience
We’ve been to Pilgrimage as media, general admission and VIP. Obviously, if you get the chance to go VIP, take it—you’ll get special access directly in front of the stage, not to mention access to food vendors and sponsor tents like George Dickel, as well as the possibility of running into some of your favorite talent. One thing to note, though, is while drinks used to be free with a VIP pass, you now have to pay for them outside of the daily happy hour where VIPs can enjoy comped cocktails, so you’ll have to decide whether the VIP pass is worth it for you.
What other questions do you have about Pilgrimage Festival for me? Are you going this year? Have you been in the past? Do you love it as much as we do?
For more tips on planning a trip to Franklin, start here:
